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Holset Turbos, PART 7

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Two 45* bends seem to be the best drain setup for any turbo if you have the room.

A 90* bend at the oil pan turns the drain upward too sharply for any turbo drain to line up. The offset difference between the turbo and the fitting on the pan in this case would be too awkward for just about any type of hose material to absorb without kinking.

One thing about the 90* pushlock bend is, its to quick of a 90 and it almost touches the oil pan and block! Think about it, the turbos drain hole is some where around 3-5" from the block.. And a 90* bend is around 1/4" from the block, so by time you put a straight fitting on the turbo and the 90* is on the oil pan, you have around 3-4" piece of silicone hose that you need put in there.. How are you going to do that without a kink or a bad bend?
 
Two 45* bends seem to be the best drain setup for any turbo if you have the room.

A 90* bend at the oil pan turns the drain upward too sharply for any turbo drain to line up. The offset difference between the turbo and the fitting on the pan in this case would be too awkward for just about any type of hose material to absorb without kinking.

One thing about the 90* pushlock bend is, its to quick of a 90 and it almost touches the oil pan and block! Think about it, the turbos drain hole is some where around 3-5" from the block.. And a 90* bend is around 1/4" from the block, so by time you put a straight fitting on the turbo and the 90* is on the oil pan, you have around 3-4" piece of silicone hose that you need put in there.. How are you going to do that without a kink or a bad bend?

Agreed. The pushlock kit extremepsi sells for Holset setups comes with one straight fitting and one 45* bend. It does not come with the 90* bend shown in the picture I posted. I just installed this last night. I will try to get some pictures but it worked great. As posted in the oil drain thread (see post #150), I had to cut one of the three notches off each fitting to make this work. I also used a non kink spring off a goodyear garden hose to make sure it stayed put. So far it looks great, fit great, and doesn't leak or kink.
 
Heres a pic of my holset H1C oil return line setup. I dont think i should have any problems.

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Is .075 good enough to use? Extremepsi sells a .035 and Ive seen other people use .063 before. I currently have the one listed above, but should I get something smaller?

Yeah, that should work for you!! I use a .075 restrictor fead from the OFH, without B/S and have had it like that sense April without a single problem, turbo is still like new!!!
 
Is .075 good enough to use? Extremepsi sells a .035 and Ive seen other people use .063 before. I currently have the one listed above, but should I get something smaller?

.035" restrictors are for ball-bearing turbos. If you use one of these in a journal-bearing turbo, it will die in a very short time no matter where the oil source is.

The .035" restrictors are also set up for the 1/4" tube flare fitting on top of a GT CHRA. To make one of these fit a Holset properly would require a plethora of fittings.

Unless you're seeing WELL over 100psi of pressure at the filter housing, a .075" restrictor will suffice.
 
Ok so just to clarify. I registered on a cummins forum and they sell the HX35 turbos super cheap, like $200 for an ok one and $300 shipped for a mint one. My question is, will any regular t3 manifold work on the stock turbo? And what about the o2 housing? Just use the stock housing and fab my own downpipe?
 
Ok so just to clarify. I registered on a cummins forum and they sell the HX35 turbos super cheap, like $200 for an ok one and $300 shipped for a mint one. My question is, will any regular t3 manifold work on the stock turbo? And what about the o2 housing? Just use the stock housing and fab my own downpipe?

Yes use the stock holset turbine housing. your going to want a manifold that is going to push the turbo out a bit so the compressor cover will clear the water pipe and the turbine housing will clear the block. A decent manifold will run around 500 ish to start. You pick up a used one if you look for one for around 250ish and up. I have slowboy tubular that they dont even make anymore. I picked it up for 275 used. Its still has not cracked and its been red red red hot.
 
Try some bf goodies LOL... I spin all four on a launch... You won't spin at the track though so your ok :)
 
I'm fixing a few things on my car right now and I have a couple of questions;

First off, here are a few crappy iphone pics of my TS T4 HX40 Pro setup.
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My first question is about my oil feed line. The current line runs from the OFH and plugs into an eyelet type bolt fitting that screws into the top of the turbine housing. I purchased a .68 restrictor but it's threads do not match the threads on the eyelet/bolt fitting that plugs into the turbo. If I simply buy an adapter and thread the oil restrictor in-line between the eyelet/bolt fitting and the braided turbo line will it provide the correct pressure for my Holset, or do I need to buy a completely different restrictor? See pic below for a better visual explanation.
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My second question is whether or not my oil drain is large enough. I know these pics are horrible, but hopefully they will give you an idea of what I'm working with.
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Correct me if I am wrong but your description says hx40 PRO set up. That hx40 in your pics has a 7-blade compressor wheel where as the pro is only a 6-blade I thought?
 

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Here is a comparison of the hx40 18cm^2 housing vs. 16cm^2 housing. Compliments of Vigge in europe who's made some huge progress with the hx40 and put down some impressive results with his Saab.

Apparently there's a much bigger difference going from 16cm^2 to 18cm^2 over going from 14cm^2 to 16cm^2. . .
 
Here is a comparison of the hx40 18cm^2 housing vs. 16cm^2 housing. Compliments of Vigge in europe who's made some huge progress with the hx40 and put down some with his Saab.

God, that guys fab skills are great. I do have a question if you know, why is he wearing a closed mask? I dont think hes welding any thing toxic, It looks like stainless. Personal preference?

Anyways, the fab is great, gives me some good ideas.:hellyeah:
 
i believe that i have a small h1c, but i just want to post a picture to make sure i have the correct turbo.
 

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^ i was reading on the ka-t website about maxing the small h1c, but i was wondering that at 15psi it put down 392 but at 25psi it put down 411? 19 whp difference for 10 psi? Is 25psi just pushing to much for this turbo? Also, what size exhaust housing is the small h1c?
 
Looks like a 50-52mm h1c. Yes the small h1c.But no the baby h1c; of which the compressor cover is mounted to the backplate by bolts, not a v-band clamp.

That Ka-T guy ran a Wh1c. I talked to him. I have a pic of his turbo. But keep in mind that the wh1c has the same compressor/turbine as the 8blade hx35. The hx35 has a 52lb/min compressor map (far beyond what this guy did). And the bolton 8blade hx35 has done far more than 400whp :) . The 8blade hx35/wh1c compressor flows as much air as the gt3076r compressor.

That small h1c flows on the compressor side probably as much as an 18g.But has a large enough turbine to see quite a bit of difference in power per psi of boost. Yet remember that hotside spools about as fast as a 16g hotside :)
 
so on the h1c that i'm running. What could be my projected Hp numbers?
 
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