This is how the gauge pod in the cluster looks like.

Can you identify them in any of these drawings? I can cross reference it to a name and PN.

I've seen the vent pods, but since it's a daily driver, I prefer to keep my vents.I'll have to go check out those from Ortizcustompods, because that's similar to what I had in mind. I must admit, I really like the looks of the gauges in place...

This is the glowshift 3 pod on my 1G. It doesn’t actually interfere with vision that much at all, and I like how it looks. I have the camera in a weird spot so it looks more obstructive than it is.In the radio din is definitely much more...

You can buy this Cluster gauge pod from Ortizcustompods, keep in mind that some warning lights/low revs will be covered by the gauges and same for the speedometer.The best/coolest place IMO to put gauges in a 1G is in the AC knobs:

I'm looking for some gauge pod recommendations for a 1g. I'm currently running a single A-pillar gauge pod for my boost gauge but I've recently purchased a wideband kit and I'm looking for options to mount the gauge. I may want to add more gauges...

I will make sure to grab some photos tomorrow if there is still enough light out. (No garage life) Ordered a new in box ISC/IAC on Ebay earlier today. I know that the Idle Switch is definitely still there and hooked up but I will have to check...

I decided to go with an AEM X after reading through some more information. The best I can tell sensor longevity can directly to relate to the preheat cycle. Some sources claim Innovate vs AEM heat differently. :idontknow: It will be installed in...

Welcome to the club! Always nice to see another DSM back from the ashes. Regarding your stalling issue: My first thought is the idle switch. It acts as a throttle stop but also tells the ECU when you're at zero throttle. It's a switch on the back...

I've dropped it from underneath with only a floor jack many times. Car is elevated to the top notch on jack stands. Really not that difficult as long as you go slow and get it balanced on the jack.Installation is a different story. Cherry...

Can you upload your latest captured log file please, not just a screen snip? Use the 'add photos' button and select your .egl log file.

Cable doesn't need slack necessarily but it should not be holding the throttle open. Do you see ISC movement on your logs? IDK about a 2g since 1g has an idle switch, but 2% throttle with the plate closed is suspect. I'd try to adjust the TPS...

I didn't see any mention of an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. So if you have a walbro255 but a stock FPR, you may have ruptured the diaphragm inside the regulator. Take the vacuum line off and see if it is wet or smells like fuel.Man...

I only see three nipples that are capped. What about the missing one on the back side (A2) - is it plugged too? No harm capping them rather than looping, probably better to cap each one individually anyway. Does the throttle cable tension have...

One thing you also have to do is make sure you have zero lash for this test. Which means a solid lifter or shimming a fully blead HLA. I used a HLA, with a washer and some layers of aluminum foil in the bottom of the bore to achieve zero lash...

Measure your valve to piston clearance next time before you finish installing the head.

Boost leak fixed. Idle is no longer surging, car comes up to temp great. It actually revs now! All this is without a working TPS as well, so whenever that comes in I'll slap it on and make more changes. It now idles at 14.6-15.1 AFR, enters...

New spark plugs and especially new spark plug wires. Boost leak test (and fix any noticeable leaks). See how it behaves after that. If it still misses, start troubleshooting your boost controller/wastegate. Even boost leak test your wastegate...

That looks all too familiar!