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Holset Turbos, PART 4

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I would feel like an a$$ if it was that simple and I didnt realize it. :p
But it would make sense.
 
Well I paid for my H2E lastnight. It should be here in a few days. I guess I'll see where this takes me. :)

I think I have a H2E or an H2D I bought before the threads were even started. Not sure why I even bought it, as it needs rebuilt. I should take it apart and measure it too.
 
I would feel like an a$$ if it was that simple and I didnt realize it. :p
But it would make sense.

That is what it means. haha


As for posting in the results thread, I'll put what I have up. I won't be getting any more for a while though. The machine shop used the wrong rod bearings for the Eagle rod application for my motor. The older 7 bolt eagle rods require the use of 6 bolt rod bearings.
Even after I reminded them at least 7-8 times. It spun a bearing after ~1000 miles. Right now I don't have the time, place or money to work on it. :notgood:
 
I'm very interested in his results too. The HE351 turbos are found more easily on eBay than the HX40, and the possibility of actually using a VGT mechanism could make it a one-size-fits-almost-all turbo. Didn't he mention spooling his at around 2k rpms with the rack full closed? Personally I'm wondering if I could rig a way to control the rack's opening gradually to match boost or rpm, instead of just on-off from closed to open. Anyone know how the rack is controlled on the trucks? Like, is it an ECU function or is there a separate unit?
The rack does open gradually, using the wastegate actuator on it the way I have it. I'm sure the rate could be controlled using a boost controller, or something similar but I never got around to messing with it.

I much prefer to have it open a bit early to avoid the tuning issues of having large back pressure variations messing with the VE and tune since I am using speed density on my car.

I know better control could be done using the electric actuator but I haven't got the time to work with that unfortunately.

No matter what you do to control it you WILL need an external wastegate too. The VGT won't hold boost down over 4000-5000 rpm and WOT. It just doesn't open far enough.
 
I think I have a H2E or an H2D I bought before the threads were even started. Not sure why I even bought it, as it needs rebuilt. I should take it apart and measure it too.

From the way I understand it... there are 2 different size H2E turbos. just from a google search I can't find out much more.
 
The rack does open gradually, using the wastegate actuator on it the way I have it. I'm sure the rate could be controlled using a boost controller, or something similar but I never got around to messing with it.

I think if you use a boost controller it will be more of an on and off type of setup. Another option might be using an actuator that has an adjustable rod. That way you could shorten it do delay when it starts to open or lengthen it to make it start earlier.



I found a trick to putting on the big c-clip that holds the compressor cover on. After i drove all over town trying to find a big enough pair of ring clip pliers i gave up on that idea. I was having problems trying to squeeze it together with channel locks. It would slip off and go flying. I decided to tack a couple welds on the ends of the tabs to keep it from slipping off the channel locks. It worked out pretty good. I didnt have time to take any pictures though. Ill try to take one tomorrow.
 
So I have been reading and reading and reading and reading on these turbos.

I think I found a great deal on an H1C. I am checking with the guy right now to find out if it is a big or small H1C. If it IS the small H1C, will it be worth the effort to move to it from the E3? I know that the big H1C flows around 50lb/min, how much less is the small? I looked through the threads, but didn't find any/much info on the small H1C.

Also, where is everyone getting their bolt-on BEP housings? The Turbo Trader?
 
The most I've ever seen a 4 cylinder gas motor do with the small h1c is 411 whp. With the big h1c, I and another fellow on the link forums have already seen over 40lb/min. I will be bringing the limit of the h1c to the table this upcoming season, early.

I've gotten a few names of people who have the h1c compressor maps. I just need to get them to respond to my messages. This should shed more light on the h1c turbos. Now, the Wh1c is identical to the 8blade hx35 in every way, except for the number of bolts holding on the turbine housing and the vband compressor housing.

BEP Holset Housing! Where to buy?
 
I think if you use a boost controller it will be more of an on and off type of setup. Another option might be using an actuator that has an adjustable rod. That way you could shorten it do delay when it starts to open or lengthen it to make it start earlier.
A ball spring one will keep it closed completely until the set boost is reached, then open from there.

An electronic one will depend on the settings of the EBC.

A bleeder type would move linearly like not having one at all.
 
I think im just gunna make a v-band flange because i cant find one locally that will match up with my hx40 exhaust housing. Now i have to decide on what size exhaust to use. If 3" is big enough, I only need to make a new downpipe. Will 3" exhaust be too small for this size of turbo? I have some 3.5" bends, but i dont think i have enough to make the whole exhaust. I guess i could just make the 3" downpipe and hook up my backpressure gauge for a comparison. I see on the results thread that badman21 had 3" dp and 4" exhaust, but everybody else was running 3" or didnt include it in their post.

What do you guys recommend for exhaust size?
 
I run a 4" for my exhaust for the HX52, It was much easier for me to run it out the front bumper so that is what I did.

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I run a 4" for my exhaust for the HX52, It was much easier for me to run it out the front bumper so that is what I did.

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Your not worried about your bumper melting? Usually there is a small gap between the bumper and the pipe yours looks like you used 4" cutter to fit a 4" pipe which works but is real snug. I would get some kinda insulator or something fire proof and wrap the exhaust with it right where it touches the bumper to be safe. Still that is badass placement:thumb: That's where mine will most likely exit.
 
I'm hoping to god my custom jmfab clone intake won't break or crack using the h2e. It isn't a flimsy, thin, weak intake so I figure it will hold up. I know a lot of people criticize products that aren't name brand but this intake was made for me cheaper than I could buy one so that's why I went this route with my SMIM.
 
I'm hoping to god my custom jmfab clone intake won't break or crack using the h2e. It isn't a flimsy, thin, weak intake so I figure it will hold up. I know a lot of people criticize products that aren't name brand but this intake was made for me cheaper than I could buy one so that's why I went this route with my SMIM.

JMfab is a name brand and they make good manifolds you shoudl be fine.
 
I run a 4" for my exhaust for the HX52, It was much easier for me to run it out the front bumper so that is what I did.

I wish I could get away with that. I drive my car way too much on the street to not get pulled over for it though. If the full exhaust that i end up with becomes too restrictive, I might make a side exit to use at the track.
 
oh ok well good luck

LOL, I hope it does well for me honestly. It was assembled and welded by a guy I know who does a LOT of tig welding work. It turned out fairly well, just needs polished up, and I haven't ran a pressure/leak test on it yet but plan to soon.
 
Polk Performance recieved my turbo yesterday. It was supposedly a fresh rebuild but they say the turbo makes an odd noise when you turn it as if the wheel is not balanced or perhaps the wheel is hitting the housing, but they are not sure if the noise is abnormal or not. Any ideas?
 
Polk Performance recieved my turbo yesterday. It was supposedly a fresh rebuild but they say the turbo makes an odd noise when you turn it as if the wheel is not balanced or perhaps the wheel is hitting the housing, but they are not sure if the noise is abnormal or not. Any ideas?

I've heard turbo's that make that noise, generally its because the turbine housing or compressor housing isn't mated together perfectly. What turbo is it?

I once had a PTE turbo that did the same thing, but I re-sold it to a guy locally, It didnt seem to bother him when he spun it a lil... you could hardly hear the noise.. and thought maybe it would go away once oil got in it.
 
With my DNP tube manny and the t-3 hotside .70 A/R i have about half an inch to the water pipe with NO spacer or modification to the pipe. PERFECT fit!!!

GORBS88
Can you post a Pic of your engine bay? I wana see the Hx40 on a dnp. I think i'll probably go with an ERL manifold though, but im considering other options.

Ha nevermind I found the pics in your profile!

One last thought, i see an actuator so this must be the smaller bolt on housing. so this isnt the .70 a/r right? I thought the .70 was v-band outlet.

For anyone else who wanted to see them ill post them on here.
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GORBS88
Can you post a Pic of your engine bay? I wana see the Hx40 on a dnp. I think i'll probably go with an ERL manifold though, but im considering other options.

Ha nevermind I found the pics in your profile!

One last thought, i see an actuator so this must be the smaller bolt on housing. so this isnt the .70 a/r right? I thought the .70 was v-band outlet.

For anyone else who wanted to see them ill post them on here.

You want some piping to go along with your couplers LOL ROFLROFLROFL

Less is more with couplers;) That's why people replace the stock rubber because it expands and gives unlike metal.
 
So my hx40 should finally be here tommaro, im going to order a p-trim .70 a/r T4 GARRETT housing for it. (So i can run my T4 mani)

I have seen a few people that use garrett housings and have them machined, Im looking for some info from these people and mayb some pics of them after they were machined. If any of you guys are out there let me know any info i might need. I see the pics monster posted with the .84 ar garrett housing, But i know there is a guy on here that did this with a t3 .70 ar garrett housing..
 
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