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Holset Turbos, PART 7

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I've thought this too in the past, but you're talking about two completely different turbochargers with two different oil requirements.

Yea man, I dont plan to run above 25psi on the holset and this motor has pretty high oil pressure, its a freshly built motor; and its not using the stock oil feed line, I have a braided. Im thinking that w/ a -10 return line ( need to do more research) but I really dont feel like tapping the filter housing and buying a restrictor etc, but Im going to just check my oil pressure at the head w/ a gauge, but Im pretty sure the head is getting over 10 psi oil pressure at my 1000rpm idle since I dont have balance shafts...
 
You're never sure until you check. You also have to watch out about seeing no more than 72psi warmed up. Ive heard of more than one instance where the head oil pressure was above that.

Besure to Tee right off the oil feed inlet to the turbo. You want to account for the line.
 
You're never sure until you check. You also have to watch out about seeing no more than 72psi warmed up. Ive heard of more than one instance where the head oil pressure was above that.

Besure to Tee right off the oil feed inlet to the turbo. You want to account for the line.

72psi at the head is dangerously high, you can port the relief valve for that.
And so your saying to tee the oil feed inlet and put the oil press. gauge on the tee and leave it like that, or just for checking purposes?
 
Only takes a neutral freerev from idle to determine your oil pressure at critical points :) so yea. Ne need to leave it on there if you don't want it. I didn't leave mine on.

72psi at the head is dangerously high. But guys with removed bshafts still don't bother with checking. And it's very possible. But most likely if you're feeding from the head you're facing oil pressure below 30psi when boosting (2500+ rpms). Even if you have bshafts removed, you can have oil pressure too low. There's just no good reason not to verify if your oil pressure is up to specs with any non oem turbo you're installing. Especially if you plan on pushing the turbo.
 
What are the advantages to the 60mm wheel vs. the 56mm? Mine is a 60mm so I was just wondering.
 
So is the rating of 69 lb/ min or whatever it is for the 6 blade with the 56mm or 60mm. Thanks.
 
My 7 blade HX35 is eating something. I recently sucked my stock 2g maf honeycombs shut, but they were still intact. I'm surprised that there was actually that much vaccum put on my maf to do such damage. Anyway, my turbo has eaten something, or is eating something. My maf looks fine, my air filter looks fine, so I can't be sure. It may have happened a while ago with something that was in my air filter. No idea. Hopefully what ever little damage is done though.

Though, this could be an excuse to pick up a 6 blade HX40 wheel and compressor cover. For the price of them, you can't beat the upgrade.

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Sh!t get a file out and have at it. It will be better time spent than with the inlaws or whatever over thanxgiving :p

Just kidding. You'll muck the balance of the compressor wheel doing that. . .

It's interesting that it's still going :)
 
Its just a couple small nicks in the edges of the inducer wheel, should be fine. The car is down with a siezed trans so the wheel may get upgraded while its down anyway. I'm seeing 54 lbs/min at 30 psi with this wheel so it would be nice to see around 60 lbs/min at the same boost level.
 
I'm already on FP2's. Im at 90% VE at 7500 rpm with the stock SMIM, so thats not a bottleneck right now. I should be able to get even more airflow out of it with no problems.
 
10% better VE, which a SMIM would yield, would put you damn near on 60lb/min with the same ambient conditions. Expect a 50whp increase at this level with a SMIM upgrade. Just too many see that to deny it.
 
90% at 7500 is already outstanding. I'm at 100% at 5800 rpm. There is no doubt that a SMIM will increase lb/min, but at this point I think a wheel upgrade will be a more cost effective upgrade. I could easily do a SMIM and max out this compressor wheel. But with me doing a trans build now and possibly a GM Maft to free up the intake track, I don't have the extra funds for a SMIM. If/when I do a new intake manifold it will be a VSR, Drag, or Beyond Redline unit.
 
Its just a couple small nicks in the edges of the inducer wheel, should be fine. The car is down with a siezed trans so the wheel may get upgraded while its down anyway. I'm seeing 54 lbs/min at 30 psi with this wheel so it would be nice to see around 60 lbs/min at the same boost level.


are you on the Stock T3 hotside? or a BEP one?
 
Hmm.. And I want to tap from the head. This motor doesnt have balance shafts.
Ive always tapped my 16g from the head and never had a problem...

My motor with no balance shafts was making under 10psi at idle and 30psi under load at the head, while still making 110psi at the OFH on cold starts. Neither location is suitable for feeding the turbo :thumb: double check the pressure no matter what.
 
any of you guys ever heard of the H2D by any chance ?
 
I'm fixing a few things on my car right now and I have a couple of questions;

First off, here are a few crappy iphone pics of my TS T4 HX40 Pro setup.
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My first question is about my oil feed line. The current line runs from the OFH and plugs into an eyelet type bolt fitting that screws into the top of the turbine housing. I purchased a .68 restrictor but it's threads do not match the threads on the eyelet/bolt fitting that plugs into the turbo. If I simply buy an adapter and thread the oil restrictor in-line between the eyelet/bolt fitting and the braided turbo line will it provide the correct pressure for my Holset, or do I need to buy a completely different restrictor? See pic below for a better visual explanation.
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My second question is whether or not my oil drain is large enough. I know these pics are horrible, but hopefully they will give you an idea of what I'm working with.
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This is what has worked for me so far with my Hx35.. I use two 45* 10an fittings and it makes a straight shot from the turbo to the oil pan with out a single kink or bend in the silicone hose.. Its so quik and easy to remove and install on to the turbo and oil pan..


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Bad pic!! Sorry about that, cam has no flash..
 
Two 45* bends seem to be the best drain setup for any turbo if you have the room.

A 90* bend at the oil pan turns the drain upward too sharply for any turbo drain to line up. The offset difference between the turbo and the fitting on the pan in this case would be too awkward for just about any type of hose material to absorb without kinking.
 
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