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Holset Turbos, PART 5

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Does anybody know how much smaller the turbine wheel is on the hy-35 versus hx-35. i understand the hy-35 cant use the bolt up housing. It looks like a good option in full t-3 setup, though! It takes the standard 5-bolt exhaust and non-divided inlet. 9cm housing too so its approximately a .63-.65a/r. I ran the hx-35 about 2 years ago on my last dsm with the bolt up housing. I'm just curious as to how much quicker the spool may be. Anyone with the inducer/exducer of the turbine on these?
 
I agree that the hy35 would a good uint to run just like it is for out cars. They have the higher flowing later hx35 compressor wheel and they have a turbine wheel close to the size of a t31 (t3 stage 3 turbine wheel): 65mm. I'm not sure about the minor diameter. It could be close to the hx35 wheel, or it could be close to the t31 wheel. Now the t31 wheel is plenty of wheel for the 50-trim. So with a decently sized turbine housing like the 9cm^2 open housing, I don't see why you can't get close to the same flow as a 50trim or 20g with the hy35 turbine wheel/housing.

On a diesel, the hy35 will spool faster than the hx35 with a divided runner manifold and stock tiny 12cm^2 turbine housing. Hense why they use this turbo on automatic trucks. So I'm SURE spool speed of the hy35 will be the same or faster than an hx35 with the bolton housing.

The hy35 also has a vband clamp attaching the turbine housing to the center cartridge which is a different size to a MHI clamp, so that is the real reason why there is no bolton housing for the hy35; since there are smaller turbine wheels used in the bep housing.

Anyone interested in a T3 megan racing manifold. Just trying to help people out here.
Also I have no clue when I will get my HX35 on, is there anyone in here using a bolt on housed HX35?
I am using an older version of the hx35 with the bolton housing. Most here are doing this.
 
Since my evo3 manifold is stuck to my evo3 turbo, I think I'm just gonna buy a new manifold. Just not sure which one.

My question, is there any performance difference between the t3 and mitsu flanged BEP housings.
 
The t3 bep housing will flow more and be slightly laggier than the mitsu bolt on housing.
 
Since my evo3 manifold is stuck to my evo3 turbo, I think I'm just gonna buy a new manifold. Just not sure which one.

My question, is there any performance difference between the t3 and mitsu flanged BEP housings.

Lags about 400 rpms later on the HX40, but perform in the top end. As for the HX35, I don't if it's of any use for it.
 
IT will be useful for the later 7blade hx35. This is the 60lb/min hx35 compressor and the turbo can benefit from a less restrictive hotside to reach the compressor potential. But yea, you will have full boost at about 4K instead. Thstock hx35 turbine housing is a t3 inlet and using this with an undivided t3 manifold will net similar spool speeds and has been proven to 132 mph with a nearly stock weight 1g awd. That's 600whp. You will have to do a custom vband o2 housing, but you will have to do a custom o2 housing for the t3 BEP housing too. The hx35 turbine housing neads to have quite a few hours of port work done tot he inlet for it to function best.
 
The t3 flange hole is more square than the holes of a holset t3 bolt pattern inlet:

89071d1225980597-holset-turbos-part-4-img_0275.jpg
 
IT will be useful for the later 7blade hx35. This is the 60lb/min hx35 compressor and the turbo can benefit from a less restrictive hotside to reach the compressor potential. But yea, you will have full boost at about 4K instead. Thstock hx35 turbine housing is a t3 inlet and using this with an undivided t3 manifold will net similar spool speeds and has been proven to 132 mph with a nearly stock weight 1g awd. That's 600whp. You will have to do a custom vband o2 housing, but you will have to do a custom o2 housing for the t3 BEP housing too. The hx35 turbine housing neads to have quite a few hours of port work done tot he inlet for it to function best.

So... with me going HX-40 ( the one I pm-ed you about DSM-onster), I should stay mitsu flanged for my 4k spool up?

My reason for asking is it's no more money for a good t3 flanged tubular manifold than a mitsu flanged one. I know I will not need all 69 lbs, or even 60lbs that my turbo can make. I simply realized there are more tubular manifold options is the t3 variant, amd was thinking i might go that way.

So, i should stay mitsu flanged? Again, wether I go t3 or mitsu, it would be in a BEP housing.
 
Got my wastegate dump tube made yesterday and went out to do some tuning pulls today via DSMLink V2 and at 1bar(14.7psi) I'm showing 35.5lbs of airflow at 7300rpm's. Car feels pretty strong and with a welded center diff it easily spun the tires in 1st/2nd all day yesterday hammering on it on wet pavement, LOL. Need to do some more tuning tomorrow and maybe crank the HX-40 to 20psi. :) 15psi seems to hit around 4400 or so on a 8:3:1 2.0 with BC 280's on the small Mitsu bolt on housing from what I can tell.
 
I just bought a junker HX40 on ebay to fool around with until I get my hands on a new/rebuilt HX40 6-blade but I'm having a REAAALLY hard time finding one.

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to find a new or rebuilt one aside from the usual sources (ebay, cummins forums)?
 
I just bought a junker HX40 on ebay to fool around with until I get my hands on a new/rebuilt HX40 6-blade but I'm having a REAAALLY hard time finding one.

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to find a new or rebuilt one aside from the usual sources (ebay, cummins forums)?


eBay for used and Maperformance, The Trade Turbo, and Tim's Turbo sells new ones or you can PM jusmx141 to rebuilt the one you have now.
 
Got my wastegate dump tube made yesterday and went out to do some tuning pulls today via DSMLink V2 and at 1bar(14.7psi) I'm showing 35.5lbs of airflow at 7300rpm's. Car feels pretty strong and with a welded center diff it easily spun the tires in 1st/2nd all day yesterday hammering on it on wet pavement, LOL. Need to do some more tuning tomorrow and maybe crank the HX-40 to 20psi. :) 15psi seems to hit around 4400 or so on a 8:3:1 2.0 with BC 280's on the small Mitsu bolt on housing from what I can tell.

GM-MAFT setup I presume?
 
GM-MAFT setup I presume?

I'm running a factory unmolested 2g maf on my Holset HX-40 car, so I can assure you that the logged flow readings are accurate. I keep the old car's profile listed for people to reference for the posted track times it ran. There's alot of followers out there looking for a proven setup to go off of. When it comes time to post new (better) track times on the HX-40 car, my profile will be updated.

Simple run down of the Holset HX-40 car
1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD - Ross/Eagle, Ported Head, BC S&R, BC 280 Cams, SS Valves, OEM HG/ARP Everything, 2g Maf/FP Intake, Twin Crushed 1g BOV's, 3" Turbo-Back, Holset HX-40/Bullseye, Hafe Manifold/Tial 38mm, Evo 3 o2, 1000cc Injectors, Walbro 255, Aeromotive Regulator, DSMLink, PLX Wideband, Kinetic Race FMIC, Prothane Motor Mounts, ACT Fly/ACT 2900, Jack's Stage 2 Trans/Welded Center Diff. etc...
 
Not yet, running on a borrowed Billet HX-40 a friend had. He's doing a HX-40 setup in a 2g FWD :)


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Mike, Im coming by this weekend, I wanna ride in it......

And here is my fwd build progress....Motor should make its way out this weekend......
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As you can see it needs a lot of cleaning, but the motor should be out and paint should be in along with a lot, A LOT of goodies..........:)

-Kevin-
 
Ok so in the last few days I have a T3 manifold, 7-blade HX35 with no shaft play ( i didn't believe it, until I touched it) and now I have a 7-blade HX35 with oil feed lines and drain line with bolt on BEP housing on the way(internal gated).

My question is on oil feed for the turbo, I was wondering if we could start a thread specifically for oil feed and drain on the holsets.

I usually get 10psi at idle but it goes to 100psi before 6000rpm. I plan on porting the OFH to reduce some pressure.
I have both feed lines, I do not want to destroy this turbo. I am thinking the head, unless my pressure at idle is too low or gets lower than 10psi at idle.
 
There was thread about oil feeding Holsets not so long ago. Anyway, after I personally fed mine from OFH for 2 yearss with no issues at all, after talking to jusmx141, i've changed to a head fed turbo with no restriction. Even though, I didn't have a restrictor before too, than I made one and ran it for couple of days, but didin't like the idea of feeding my turbo thru this tiny hole even mine was 0.080/like 2mm/.

Plus I don't think, that the pressure from the head is much lower. My belief is head pressure is like 10 psi lower, than OFH. Otherwise doesn't make sense to me.
 
There was thread about oil feeding Holsets not so long ago. Anyway, after I personally fed mine from OFH for 2 yearss with no issues at all, after talking to jusmx141, i've changed to a head fed turbo with no restriction. Even though, I didn't have a restrictor before too, than I made one and ran it for couple of days, but didin't like the idea of feeding my turbo thru this tiny hole even mine was 0.080/like 2mm/.

Plus I don't think, that the pressure from the head is much lower. My belief is head pressure is like 10 psi lower, than OFH. Otherwise doesn't make sense to me.

Yeah I would rather not use a restrictor and run off the head with a inline filter than go off the oil filter housing and use a restcitor.
 
Of course, unless you have b-shafts installed. If you do, you should be sure about your coldstart, idle, and light load oil pressure. Hx35/hx40 and h1c/h1e holset repair manual:

12. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.

13. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).​
Likely your oil pressure will be plenty high at the head if you have no b-shafts and have not ported your oil relief valve.

So... with me going HX-40 ( the one I pm-ed you about DSM-onster), I should stay mitsu flanged for my 4k spool up?

. . . I know I will not need all 69 lbs, or even 60lbs that my turbo can make. . .

Stick with the mitsuflanged smaller housing. You will have WAY too much turbo for your goal and unneccesary lag. I would get an fp race manifold in a heartbeat, if I were you. Proven to deliver. He!! an ebay tubular has worked well from my personal experience. I saw an increase in spool speed between the evo3 manifold and the ebay tubular back when I had my small 16g. There was no decrease in peak flow and I gained flow in the mid range.

Simple run down of the Holset HX-40 car
1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD - Ross/Eagle, Ported Head, BC S&R, BC 280 Cams, SS Valves, OEM HG/ARP Everything, 2g Maf/FP Intake, Twin Crushed 1g BOV's, 3" Turbo-Back, Holset HX-40/Bullseye, Hafe Manifold/Tial 38mm, Evo 3 o2, 1000cc Injectors, Walbro 255, Aeromotive Regulator, DSMLink, PLX Wideband, Kinetic Race FMIC, Prothane Motor Mounts, ACT Fly/ACT 2900, Jack's Stage 2 Trans/Welded Center Diff. etc...

How does your g/rev and lb/min curve look with the 280s and the stock intake manifold?
 
I do not have B shafts anymore but I want to port the OFH to reduce pressure.
I think that I might try to make some kind of deal where I can measure what it is at the head.
Jeffgst i think said he measured it to be 45 max from the head.
 
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