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Holset Turbos, PART 5

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The compressor blades look fine. I think I caught it just in time. Nothing is bent from what I can see, but then again I'm not a turbo rebuilder. As of now I'm using Kevins HX-40 CHRA in my compressor cover/turbine housing and its boosting just fine.




I'll shoot him a pm, thanks for the info~!

Justin rebuilt my turbo and the turn around time was 1 day. did a great job:thumb:
 

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Yeah, he wanted more but I told him I would take it off his hands right away for a lower price. Buying a used turbo is scary, but most people buy the holset's off ebay from high mileage Diesel's and still have zero issues with reliability and performance.

Three questions guys:

1. Will I need a restrictor on my Feed from the OFH, like mentioned above? I've already had the relief valve ported, I saw a max of 80-85psi at WOT.

2. What will I do for boost control? There does not appear to be a boost source on the compressor housing? Will I need to tap one?

3. Is there any chance this turbo has a 60mm wheel? It's an 8-wheel compressor, but the previous owner claimed its a 60mm, which I thought only appeared on the 6-wheel 'PRO' units?

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I have H1E with 60mm inducer, but you have to measure to be sure. My comp. housing is basically the same, but the area where the inducer is was completely machined and at the end/towards the air filter/, shape is a little different. Take a look...

1. I think, you should be fine from OFH with this kind of oil-pressure. My car has like 120+ PSI at WOT and turbo is like new. Never smoked and the turbine wheel looks clean. Right now I after talking to Justin, I am feeding it from the head no restrictor/ . The only reason I switched, besides Jus reccomendation is cause I thought it was affecting my spool-up time. But I found something else/small leak I will comment on that some other time.

2. I think, there is a reason behind most of the HX-40/H1E, to be tapped on comp. housing... Plus running longer lines TO and FROM MBC, Waste Gate is something, that will slow the response and probably will affect spool times a little bit in my opinion.

3. Take a look and measue yours anyway.
 

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Sorry to hear about your turbo Mike. Speaking of bad Holset rebuilds, the rebuilt super HX40 i bought recently off of Ebay has a problem. I had it shipped directly to the shop that is tuning my car and they immediatley contacted me saying the turbo makes noise when you spin it, almost as if one of the blades is hitting or grinding on something inside. The owner of the shop took the turbo to a local turbo rebuilder who suggested I ship the turbo back immediatley because it has a problem. I contaced the seller/rebuilder and he asked me to clock the turbo to the exact position I want it on the car and ship it back to him and he will fix it and return it promptly. The shop said the box was packed well and didn't appear to be damaged in shipping. Any idea what might cause a newly rebuilt holset to do this?

Rebuilding a turbo with a bent shaft. . .
 
Rebuilding a turbo with a bent shaft. . .
+1.

That's the first thing I check for when I get a turbo in at the shop that has a ton of shaft play, or shows evidence of oil deprivation. The wheels can spike the housing and literally bend the turbine shaft depending on how much force there was on the turbo when it hit the housing. I've learned this the hard way after rebuilding a few that had bent shafts and sending them out the door unknowingly. That was many, many years ago.....

One of my problems is that I have yet to find an affordable Holset parts supplier. The first complete HX40 I ever bought almost 2 years ago cost me $48 shipped from eBay and was in need of a new compressor and turbine assembly. I'm used to Mitsu and Garrett parts, so I figured I'd have $300 MAX in parts- including the internals....boy, was I wrong. I got price quotes from NUMEROUS reliable parts suppliers, and they were all in the $400 range for the compressor and turbine wheels for that particular turbo (6-blade compressor, 12-blade turbine), and I hadn't even bought internals yet! I unloaded the turbine housing on eBay for $55 and kept the center housing for parts.
 
Rebuilding a turbo with a bent shaft. . .


I've never taken a turbo apart aside from removing housings. Is it difficult to replace a bent shaft? Is the shaft a separate component or is it directly attached to one of the wheels?
 
Ok well thanks for the advice guys! I'm guessing that my turbo is probably closer to a 58mm compressor wheel (meaning the owner lied to me), but that is still enough to make over 400whp on pump I imagine, and at least keep up with bolt on 35r's on pump!

Do you guys have any tips on tapping the compressor housing for a vacuum fitting?
 
I wouldn't let him get away with a lie if this is true. You can leave feedback. Be honest about your feedback.

Regardless, the 58mm 8blade compressor wheel is plenty. It is a 60lb/min compressor. Basically you have a 60-1 (fpred, scm6076) on crack. It will spool MUCH faster than a 60-1, 700rpms or more, and will still flow about the same air at peak. The turbine flows more than any bolton 60-1 out there. Which means way better pumpgas numbers. The standard high flow hx40 (58mm 8blade compressor) is still 70% efficient after 55lb/min and up to 40psi OMG .

I've never taken a turbo apart aside from removing housings. Is it difficult to replace a bent shaft? Is the shaft a separate component or is it directly attached to one of the wheels?

Yea, the shaft is integrated into the turbine wheel as one piece.
 
Does anyone have any pics, part number, or link (besides pte website) for this t3 gasket that you guys are using to mate the twin scroll housing to non divided manifold?
 
Does anyone have any pics, part number, or link (besides pte website) for this t3 gasket that you guys are using to mate the twin scroll housing to non divided manifold?

Would you not just use a regular t3 gasket.....

-Kevin-
 
With the divider, there is a flat surfece with sharp corners sticking out right in the middle of the exhaust stream. This is very bad for flow and creates lots o' turbulance. The gasket has a rise on the divider section of it that comes to a rounded point for the length of the divider. This saves port work time and doubles as a gasket.
 
With the divider, there is a flat surfece with sharp corners sticking out right in the middle of the exhaust stream. This is very bad for flow and creates lots o' turbulance. The gasket has a rise on the divider section of it that comes to a rounded point for the length of the divider. This saves port work time and doubles as a gasket.

I have one that is a t4 gasket but to be honest didn't think it was that special and never took pictures but you can get them from PTE threw SBR(I would go straight to PTE as it too may to long threw SBR).
 
I've never taken a turbo apart aside from removing housings. Is it difficult to replace a bent shaft? Is the shaft a separate component or is it directly attached to one of the wheels?
If the turbine shaft bends enough, it can acutally ruin the center housing because the raised area where the turbine seal rides will damage the hole it turns in. If this happens, there's no way to repair it....the center housing is junk. Even if you replace the turbine shaft in this situation, the turbine seal won't seal properly and the turbo will always use oil.

In most cases, if the turbine shaft is bent, you throw the turbo away.
 
hey guys i've read this thread almost all the way through now but can't seem to find anything on how to tell a real Holset from possibly a knock-off. Is anyone able to tell if this is a legitimate hx40 or not??? Thanks, Chris
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Thanks. So I guess there's no real way to tell by just looking at the compressor housings. It seemed like all the Holsets I've seen had either Holset written on them or the name plate on the compressor housing somewhere, so was just wondering if they're was some other way to tell. So by the pictures alone you really can't tell???
 
Thanks. So I guess there's no real way to tell by just looking at the compressor housings. It seemed like all the Holsets I've seen had either Holset written on them or the name plate on the compressor housing somewhere, so was just wondering if they're was some other way to tell. So by the pictures alone you really can't tell???

It's a Holset. They don't make knock-offs that look just like Holsets. (I may be wrong about that part, but I can tell you that you have a real one.)

edit: The center housing usually has HOLSET cast into it. At least mine does.
 
If the turbine shaft bends enough, it can acutally ruin the center housing because the raised area where the turbine seal rides will damage the hole it turns in. If this happens, there's no way to repair it....the center housing is junk. Even if you replace the turbine shaft in this situation, the turbine seal won't seal properly and the turbo will always use oil.

In most cases, if the turbine shaft is bent, you throw the turbo away.

:toobad: That sucks. I just spoke to the guy who sold me my Holset (Randy...a.k.a snowprincess67 on Ebay) and so far he has been very cooperative. He still hasn't recieved the turbo back from Polk Performance but he said he doubts a bent shaft was the source of the noise. Then again, Randy is apparently the same person who sold Mike1992 his bad Holset, so he may be sandbagging me. If nothing else i would like to salvage the 19cm turbine housing and the billet 7 blade comp. The billet wheel alone is supposedly worth over $250.
 
Randy aka SnowPrincess67(EBAY) is an asshole. Won't refund any money and won't return my emails. We had a few emails and after I sent pics I never heard another word.....
 
I can P.M. you with his phone number if you wanna call and set him straight.
 
Anyone interested in a T3 megan racing manifold. Just trying to help people out here.
Also I have no clue when I will get my HX35 on, is there anyone in here using a bolt on housed HX35?
 
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