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Holset Turbos, PART 8

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Don't worry, i upgraded to the 7 blade HX35 from a 14b and I'm happy. Full boost before 4,000 rpm. :thumb:


1) Is the "fitting nut thing connected to the water pipe" that you're referring to the one that sits directly behind the compressor housing of the HX35 when you mount it? If so, i had to remove the stock 14b water line from it, plug it with the large bolt i bought from extremepsi.com: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Water Pipe Bolt Plug : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo and then remove the bolt that holds the water pipe bracket to the block, hog/egg out the bolt hole on the bracket so that i could lower or raise the water pipe a bit, and then angle the bottom of the water pipe towards the block more as the area where the bolt is installed hits the compressor.

If your referring to the other stock coolant line over by the thermostat housing, i had to bend that line a bit to fit and then looped a rubber hose i believe.

2) I still run a stock '91-94 water cooled oil cooler at the oil filter housing. This means that we have a second water line which prevents us from being able to swap in a N/T water pipe unless you upgrade to a aftermarket or '90 air cooled oil cooler. This is why i had to buy that large bolt from extreme and plug the water pipe.

3)As for the manifold, i think that question is about the same for most cast dsm manifolds. Just tighten them down evenly like you would and intake/exhaust manifold or lug nuts on a wheel, making sure not to tighten one side too much and doing it evenly. Use what ever works for you, but yes you're right, a torque wrench isn't really possible so use your best judgment.

4) Did you already hack the living hell out of the front engine mount? I know i had to on my '92. Also, if you don't get a slim fan, you will have to mod/hack your stock cooling fan to the point where it looks like it went through a giant paper shredder, but mine works and still keeps temps down. Super ghetto though LOL

Maybe these pics will help, if not, they sure do look cool.



Thats weird. The fitting on my water pipe shoots downward. So instead of sitting on top of the water pipe like yours does, mine sits at the bottom side of the water pipe. You know the part where most people have to dent with a hammer so that the compressor can fit?? Well exactly on that area, I have that damn water line fitting. So plugging it won't really work because the bolt wil just get in the way and the compressor won't fit.
So I might have to do what nfernotalon suggested.
Now, the other problem is that my car is not drivable for the time being and going to the junkyard is impossible right now.
But the thing that I don't get is, why does my water pipe have that fitting facing down and a bit more inward as oppose to having it sit upward and a bit more to out just like the one you have on your picture.

Gooberlog. By the way, did you "clock" your water pipe? Like roatate it so that the fitting won't be on the turbos way?? If so, then it looks like I might have some hope on this. LOL. Oh by the way, those pictures are awesome!! Thank you very much Gooberlog.
Does anybody know the size and pitch for the bolt that plugs the that water fitting? I don't think I will have time to order it from extreme psi. So I would like to just walk to my nearest hardware store and buy a bolt.
Thanks guys.
 
Proud owner of a 160k mile 7 blade hx35 Amazed that the thrust bearing had NO wear whatsoever and only a small amount of up and down. Same condition thrust bearing in another 180k mile one, too.

Gathering up some materials to make a twin scroll mani to utilize the stock housing. Really itching to get started... Many track runs and dyno pulls are promised once it's on. Still saving up yet for a 38mm tial, head flange, twin scroll t3 flange and some weld els then I can get to mocking everything.

Nearly double the flow potential of a 14b /QUOTE]

Matt, I cant wait to see this build! Ive been looking into a holset build, torn between the 35 or 40 though. When the time comes Ill worry about it, but until then I have a motor to finish building. ;) So next summer when I bring the GSX home Ill be lookin for some help and advise from you and Kenny!! :thumb:
 
Thats weird. The fitting on my water pipe shoots downward. So instead of sitting on top of the water pipe like yours does, mine sits at the bottom side of the water pipe. You know the part where most people have to dent with a hammer so that the compressor can fit?? Well exactly on that area, I have that damn water line fitting. So plugging it won't really work because the bolt wil just get in the way and the compressor won't fit.
So I might have to do what nfernotalon suggested.
Now, the other problem is that my car is not drivable for the time being and going to the junkyard is impossible right now.
But the thing that I don't get is, why does my water pipe have that fitting facing down and a bit more inward as oppose to having it sit upward and a bit more to out just like the one you have on your picture.

Gooberlog. By the way, did you "clock" your water pipe? Like roatate it so that the fitting won't be on the turbos way?? If so, then it looks like I might have some hope on this. LOL. Oh by the way, those pictures are awesome!! Thank you very much Gooberlog.
Does anybody know the size and pitch for the bolt that plugs the that water fitting? I don't think I will have time to order it from extreme psi. So I would like to just walk to my nearest hardware store and buy a bolt.
Thanks guys.

This is why i had to remove the bolt that holds the water pipe to the block and then egg out that bolt hole on the bracket so that i was able to clock the water pipe so that the fitting and large bolt that plugs it up are now facing inward towards the block a bit and slightly away from the compressor housing. The area i had to dent a bit was right at the top base of that fitting so i did it very carefully and little by little.
 
So you also dented your water pipe?? wow!!! I must say, it looks great!!! You can't see any dents or anything. So what did you do to that other pipe that tees to the main water pipe?? The one that comes from the side of the engine, under the thermostat housing??
How much did you grind from the front motor mount?
 
So you also dented your water pipe?? wow!!! I must say, it looks great!!! You can't see any dents or anything. So what did you do to that other pipe that tees to the main water pipe?? The one that comes from the side of the engine, under the thermostat housing??
How much did you grind from the front motor mount?

Thanks, i did spend a few days doing this install. I had to bend the water line under the t-stat housing a bit and i think i looped a rubber hose to the other line next to it and clamped them off. Yes I did dent in the water pipe a bit but a little at a time. Picture swinging the hammer with a partially opened fist. Not hitting it like a cave man.

The front motor mount on the driver's side i had to go to town with a dewalt grinder so the oil drian line fittings would clear. Have fun with that part. That turbo set up gets really heavy after mocking it up a handful of times.

some more teaser pics of my temporary set up with 3" intake :cool::
 

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Ok I think I found the fitting I have been looking for. I think I want to run a -4an stainless line from the fitting to an oil gauge in the car so I can monitor oil pressure while driving. Opinions?

Heres a link to it: gauge adapter
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It would be most excellent to find out before and after restriction oil pressures.
I may just have to pick up one of these little guys and do that very thing.
 
Im having a couple of boost issues with my HX35 internal wastegate. I posted this in thread 7 but never got a response, The flapper arm doesnt seem to move very smoothly and there is some slop in it, like the tolerances arent that great. Anyone else have this problem with thiers? This is without anything attached to it... It also wont boost any less then 25PSI right now and is real laggy. Thanks for the help
Mike
 
I faintly recall the flapper bushing being able to move in an out a bit on an internal BEP HX35 install a couple years back. Try to get the flapper centered over the hole as best you can then tack weld the pivot bushing to the housing so it can't move around causing it to bind or make the flapper hit the housing.
 
I have had both. I'm currently on a HX35 now. Going to swap back to the hybrid here in the next few weeks. I can tell the difference on the spool up on the HX35 vs hybrid HX40/35 the HX35 is more linear to me. As to where the hybrid just smacks u back in the seat. The hybrid hits harder in my opinion. Waiting for new clutch disk to come in and will post some logs with both turbos. When I make the swap back to the hybrid. Which should be soon. Sent the turbo to Justin should have it back soon.. By the way if anyone needs a turbo rebuild.. Justin is the man to call. Great Customer Service and fair prices..:thumb:

I want to see the results of this.

I have a fitting that is one piece that threads into center section and has a 1/8npt in the side for a gauge or more fittings.
 
I know the HX52 is 67mm. Is anyone running the billet 71mm HX52 pro. Is that same 71mm billet BW compressor wheel used in the old PTE 71gts turbo?
 
I faintly recall the flapper bushing being able to move in an out a bit on an internal BEP HX35 install a couple years back. Try to get the flapper centered over the hole as best you can then tack weld the pivot bushing to the housing so it can't move around causing it to bind or make the flapper hit the housing.

Ill look at it this weekend, but I dont remember seeing a bushing in there at all.. thanks
 
That's my photobucket account. Everyone on the link forums knows me as wheelhop. Picture's of my pups, videos/pics of my kids/wife, some of my T/E/Ls, and all sorts of crap in there. . . :confused: I've given everything I know from Holset literature out onto these threads already. Every copy of every map that applies to any holset turbo worth the upgrade. And Morphius has collected it all plus all of what what he's gathered into the "holset results thread".
 
Ok I think I found the fitting I have been looking for. I think I want to run a -4an stainless line from the fitting to an oil gauge in the car so I can monitor oil pressure while driving. Opinions?

Heres a link to it: gauge adapter
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's another method, just more complicated and overpriced. LOL

I didn't end up using the 45* fitting

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That's my photobucket account. Everyone on the link forums knows me as wheelhop. Picture's of my pups, videos/pics of my kids/wife, some of my T/E/Ls, and all sorts of crap in there. . . :confused: I've given everything I know from Holset literature out onto these threads already. Every copy of every map that applies to any holset turbo worth the upgrade. And Morphius has collected it all plus all of what what he's gathered into the "holset results thread".
I know it's you :D. I just figured it would be easier to give access to them on one screen. Also does the old PTE 71GTS use the same 71mm billet compressor wheel as the HX52 Pro?
 
PTE will have to answer that. I stay away from those turbos, personally. . . But, there's more to a compressor wheel than major and minor diameters.

I chose not to give out a link to EVERY map at once because I don't want someone rumaging through my photos of the rest of my life. ALL the maps remotely relevent are on the results thread as I mentioned. . . Some of those are modified with my personal speculation and mathematical point of view. Not something that the rest of the community should be even thinking about unless they don't care about reality vs. theory.

There are more maps too, straight from cummins format. But they only solidify the maps already seen as being accurate. Holset is very secretive about their compressor maps. You can work backwards from one and find all the deciding specifications of a compressor, knowing only a few variables.
 
I know nothing of the link forums. I've never been on there. I took the Holset map link down.

For the record the old PTE 71GTS and HX52 pro use the same 71mm billet compressor wheel. If anyone is interested in info on the HX52 pro those two turbos put out very similar results.
 
They put out the same numbers? so the turbines are the same too?

Do you have any physical proof the two compressors are the same? Like pictures. CLOSE shots. where we can see the hub, the contour of the fins, the fin tips? Not negating the value of knowing they are the same. It would be nice to see that a reputed performance charger manufacturer is borrowing wheels from Holset. It is also "rumored" that the biggest FP turbocharger shares the same compressor wheel.

We need to see proof however. Before conclusions can be drawn. Otherwise, it's internet lore.
 
They use to be the same billet 71mm wheel. The PTE 71 GTS is nothing but the proven old BW/Holset K29 wheel with a Garrett turbine wheel. The old PTE 71 GTS. Not the new billet PTE 71mm. There are also a few turbo companies over seas (not well known to DSM's) that have been using that wheel for years. If someone looks hard enough they can even find a billet BW S471 (it's not ett) and it's expensive as hell.

I want to keep the thread on topic. I was just wondering if anyone has ran a HX52 pro.
 
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