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Holset Turbos, PART 7

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You need to know the specs of the hotside. If it's smaller or the same size as the hx52 hotside then your cool cause you can have the 16cm2 housing machined out to fit the hx55. I'm doubting that's the case though if your lucky they're the same but chances are the hx55 has a bigger hotside and won't fit.
 
That didn't answer my question...

Here is how the holset service manual states it.

Information taken direct from the Holset service manual for the HX35/40:

Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.
 
big D... the hole in the oil pan is too small to run something that big without creating a bottle neck. You will need to change to oil pans hole by welding a bung or doing something else.. So no I doesn't not meet the requirements as it is almost impossible to meet them by making a bolt on return..
 
ours are .5", not .75". I just went to go and measure it. While i understand that they are listing that as a requirement, I would take into consideration how much oil we're putting through at what pressure compared to the turbos typical application. I don't know which is greater but I think it's worth considering. I do also know, as i stated that we've used these for quite sometime and sold many to other vendors without a single issue.
 
big D... the hole in the oil pan is too small to run something that big without creating a bottle neck. You will need to change to oil pans hole by welding a bung or doing something else.. So no I doesn't not meet the requirements as it is almost impossible to meet them by making a bolt on return..


I understand this, I just don't want people thinking that this drain is an end all solution to Holset oiling. It seems that the best results for longevity have been achieved by a custom drain setup with a fitting welded to a n/t pan and larger lines.

Just curious, how did you end up running your return on your Wh1c?
 
i plan on going with the custom 2g return cut off with silicone hose attached to a fitting on the holset.

Marti i will be paying soon for a hx35 housing.
 
For my oil drain, I ran some -16 AN line. This meant taking off the oil pan, enlarging the existing oil drain oil, then welding a bung on. I also made my own flange for the turbo oil drain and welded a -16 bung to it. The problem is the fittings are obscenely expensive, and clearance is tight. If I had to do it again, I would probably have fabbed a metal pipe with a flex section, like the stock drain, except with a larger inside diameter.
 
Anybody have any issues with a -10 oil drain? Or even recommend it?
 
ours are .5", not .75". I just went to go and measure it. While i understand that they are listing that as a requirement, I would take into consideration how much oil we're putting through at what pressure compared to the turbos typical application.
Seeing as Holset recommends no more than 72psi of oil pressure at the inlet on any application, and some of these turbos are pushing the million-mile mark on their original Cummins diesels, I think they have things figured out.

It wasn't until DSMers started blasting 100+psi into the inlet and expecting it to drain properly through a drain tube that is 3/8" smaller than what Holset specifies that we ran into issues with blowing Holsets.

I do also know, as i stated that we've used these for quite sometime and sold many to other vendors without a single issue.
...but SBR doesn't sell Holsets, so how would you know if guys are shitting their turbos based on the drain lines you're selling?
 
-16 lines seems a little excessive, any reason for that choice, besides the obvious drain issue's, a -12 seems much more practical.

-12 is 3/4" OD, which means the ID will be a fair amount less. Holset requires 19mm ID, so even -12 line does not meet this requirement.
 
Just for a quick reference (I don't want to get to into the oiling issues in this thread)

-10 = 9/16" = 14.29mm
-12 = 11/16" = 17.46mm
-16 = 7/8" = 22.22mm

Holset requires 19mm I.D.

Seems -12 is the closest but still under. With proper oiling and -12 return, I don't think I would worry to much. But if you want 19mm you still need to fab up a custom return.
 
-12 drain (stock hx35 drain tube with hose clamped on), and 80PSI going in, and it has never smoked ever.

My drain is FAR from ideal too... it sorta loops under the trans, then goes back up at the end.
 
I always wondered how that HX55 fared against the larger GT45rs and S400 turbos. Still not much information about them around.
 
Just a question comparing these two turbos, I have a ported evo16g right now running 20psi and getting 33-34lbs of airflow. Now I keep hearing you can make so much power with the hx35, but have also heard that at the same psi level the hx35 will actually flow a bit less, with later spool time. Now the evo16g's efficiency range is around 25psi. I even heard that at 25psi hx35 still flows less or about the same.

Now I wanted to run a 50trim type turbo at 30psi max. I hear hx35 is like 50trim with faster spool, but I just do not see it with the results from other members and their stories. Just want to clear this out and find out the truth as I don't see why upgrade when an evo16g can do the same. Any input?

Like they were saying boost doesnt equal airflow.. Theres no linear comparison here, its going to be more so dependant on tuning, hard parts and rpm's revved out to.
FWIW, on my setup the 56mm 6/12blade hx40 at 24psi pulled harder than my evo316g at 25psi with the same tune, and only spooled around 500rpm slower. The only thing the 16g for sure had on it was transient spool response in lower rpms. The hx40 has a little laggy soft spot below 4grand that I dont care about because thats a useless rpm for me anyways...
 
-12 is 3/4" OD, which means the ID will be a fair amount less. Holset requires 19mm ID, so even -12 line does not meet this requirement.

In the oiling thread I posted some pics of the OEM drain and it is largely 19mm. However, the very end of the tube necked down to around 17mm. I think if one went with the -12an fittings, it should be more than ample.

Another solution would be to devise a "t" of sorts at the turbo and run (2) drains of a slightly smaller diameter, say -10an.

EDIT: See post 78:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...rbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small-3.html
 
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I run a -3 feed line from a stock 4G61 oil filter housing. My 4G61 does not have balance shafts from the factory. I run the -10 bolt on fittings from extremepsi with a pushloc hose. I run a .065 restrictor with a male flange for the oil feed on top of the turbo.

I have 3,000-4,000 miles on my HX52.

I have zero issues with smoke or under oiling. Zero shaft play in any direction. I installed my turbo brand new and have never run a filter on it. Only chicken wire with two steel mesh screens over it.

I think people are way over thinking this. I looked at the holset manual and did the best I could to do what they ask.
 
That didn't answer my question...

Here is how the holset service manual states it.

Information taken direct from the Holset service manual for the HX35/40:

Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.

Remember that these recommendations are based on 15w40 mineral oil that is also recommended. This oil is extrememly thick when used in cold climates and drains very slow compared to even 10w40.

here is a good visual.
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In my semi, i noticed a huge difference in cold (below freezing) start cranking speed from going from 15w40 mineral to 5w40 synthetic. The 5w40 cranked over as if it was the middle of summer.
 

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FWIW, I put about 500 miles on my HX setup using the FP blue drain tube and the FP journal bearing restrictor/filter and never had oiling or smoking issue.

I'm also changing my setup if anyone wants a super low mileage HX40 Pro with the .55 BEP bolton housing. I also have a brand new .70 AR BEP housing as well.

I hope someone can make the numbers I was never able to churn out. I've bad a streak of bad luck and and probably jumping ship while its still afloat.
 
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Still wondering if anyone has any info on machining a 12cm^2 hx35 housing to fit the larger hx40 wheel. I believe the 40 turbine wheel is 65mm. I have the original hx40 turbine housing I can measure off also.

Anyone know the tolerances when doing this. How close can the wheel be to the housing, etc.??

Thanks
 
Still wondering if anyone has any info on machining a 12cm^2 hx35 housing to fit the larger hx40 wheel. I believe the 40 turbine wheel is 65mm. I have the original hx40 turbine housing I can measure off also.

Anyone know the tolerances when doing this. How close can the wheel be to the housing, etc.??

Thanks

Theres a guy selling one over on cumminsforums.com, so I'd say yes.

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