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Holset Turbos, PART 6

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IMO it would be better and cheaper to try and mill the flange a little bit, good luck-matt98

dsm-onster-- AH crap has anyone bolted one of these up to an ebay tubular mani? Im gonna have to take a look at mine i might have the same problem.
 
I really think the best option is to chop off the flange on his manifold and reweld it at a better angle, as mentioned. Easiest and most reliable way to solve this problem.
 
Hey guys thanks for all the help! Im really thinking im just gonna take my manifold and flanges down and try and get them both milled so the turbine housing will sit farther away from the block. Im really trying to avoid haveing to get a flange from the head to mainifold.
 
Hey guys have a quick question. I have a borg warner s259.. I swaped turbine housings and sold my old .55ar bep dsm housing of my turbo to a guy that has a hx35.. Now this should be a direct bolt on and should work? He pmed me and said the turbine wheel fits its just to small for the housing. Does this sound correct? I havent really kept with the holset threads too much. From the information that I have gathered it should be a direct bolt and should work perfect with the hx35.. I gave him the number to bullseye and told him to speak with David. If Im wrong then I will send him the money back and he can send me the turbine housing back. DSM-ONSTER? You seem to have a lot of knoledge on the Holsets.
 
Holset turbine wheels are not borg-warner turbine wheels. You gave him a bolton turbine housing from your BW turbo? The housing is cut for your s256 wheel. The smallest s256 turbine wheel (69.5mm, 61.5mm) has an inducer and exducer that are close in size to the hx35 (69.9mm, 60mm), but off enough for the exducer to lose efficiency (spaced too far from the housing wall) and a enough for the inducer (major diameter) to contact the housing. Also the blade contour-- the sweep from the major to the minor diameter-- could be drastically different in length and bend.

He cannot have the housing machined to fit the hx35 turbine wheel since one of the diameters of the smallest s2** series wheel is already larger than the corresponding diameter of the hx35 wheel.
 
Hey Mike1992! I see you on this thread, while I'm building my auto to manual convrsion :). Put your car into the 10s already so that we can put the hx40 saga to bed! 10s seam to be the F&F "go to" number for 4g63-powered cars to prove a turbo. 650whp on the dyno with a .55 a/r bep housing and then 580whp trapspeed with the smaller 8blade compressor w/ bolton seams not to be enough for some.
 
Does anyone have a picture of the webbed inlet part? (described in post #73, on page 3). Next question, I'm looking into picking up a holset as a temp. solution. I'm looking at the small h1c. Here's the thing. The guy is asking $140 shipped for it. None to minimal shaft play (no in and out, slight side to side, wheels don't touch housings). Now my question is does anyone know what kind of power can come from one of these. I saw the section about about the H1C that DSMonster was describing. Only problem is he states that the small H1C uses a 50mm compressor wheel (inducer) and the wheel itself is a 7 blade. Now, I'm in no way discrediting or disrespecting him here. The turbo I'm looking at is an H1C, says so on the tag at least, but it's an 8 blade compressor wheel. I'm still awaiting a measurement from the owner of the turbo. So to sum it up, am I looking at a small H1C like mentioned or something else? The turbo is from a 1990 Ram, non intercooled cummins. The tag say's Holset H1C, but the compressor doesn't have 7 blades like described in the beginning of this thread. Pic's:
 

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Yes. That part is wrong. The 7blade h1c has a 45mm inducer and a bolton compressor housing. I call this the "baby" h1c. What I now call small h1c has a 50 to 52 mm 8blade inducer with no webbing and a vband compressor housing. That one is the 50-52mm h1c. The big h1c (54mm inducer) is good for about 48lb/min to 60% efficiency. That 50-52mm compressor could be as good as the 18g or evo3 16g by the same 60% efficiency. Of course you would have the hx35 turbine wheel and a housing that both together would flow quite a bit more than the td05h hotside. So you would have more hp per psi than those MHI turbos.

The webbed inlet means that the compressor looks like it has surge porting in it. The big h1c has the webbing. But only does the wh1c and hx35 or bigger actually have porting all the way through the cover to the compressor blades. But I've never once had the slightest issue with surge even with the larger 54mm h1c wheel and the bolton housing with a 2.0L.
 
Hey guys I'm one of the three cars dsm-onster was talking about from Mr. Peepers area. If all goes well the car should be running tonight otherwise it will be up and going tomorrow:hellyeah:. Hope to have dyno and track numbers in early April:thumb:.

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Thanks
Erik
 

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Hey Mike1992! I see you on this thread, while I'm building my auto to manual convrsion :). Put your car into the 10s already so that we can put the hx40 saga to bed! 10s seam to be the F&F "go to" number for 4g63-powered cars to prove a turbo. 650whp on the dyno with a .55 a/r bep housing and then 580whp trapspeed with the smaller 8blade compressor w/ bolton seams not to be enough for some.

My car is still in the garage with the head off. I haven't the funds to put it back togeather the way I want to yet :( I hope to get the block out and reworked sometime soon though. I'll have some track times out before summer rolls around :thumb:
 
Hey guys I'm one of the three cars dsm-onster was talking about from Mr. Peepers area. If all goes well the car should be running tonight otherwise it will be up and going tomorrow:hellyeah:. Hope to have dyno and track numbers in early April:thumb:.

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Erik

Your setup looks awesome man. Question: are you using the PR 02 Housing that is listed in your profile? In a couple of weeks I'm going to buy a HX40 with the bep housing and I can't decide if I want to stick with the ported sbr cast manifold that I have or if it would be beneficial to switch to a FP Race manifold... I have my manifold flanged for my 38mm external wg, and if I switch to the fp race mani, I would have to buy a new 02 housing. Eventually I'll probably switch housings and go to a tubular manifold someday, but for now, I don't want to spend the $800-$1000 on a good tubular manifold.
 

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Here is my HE351CW. Im going to do some test fitting today to see if im going to use a spacer to keep it from hitting the block or if im going to get the flange remilled.

Ill be running this turbo with 190 walbro, 750 siemens injectors, speed density, ported 2g manifold and tial 38mm.

Oh and I realize I should get a new compressor. Ill probably do that in a couple of months or so then ill just rebuild the entire thing

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Hey guys I'm one of the three cars dsm-onster was talking about from Mr. Peepers area. If all goes well the car should be running tonight otherwise it will be up and going tomorrow:hellyeah:. Hope to have dyno and track numbers in early April:thumb:.

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Thanks
Erik

Looks like with the FP mani you dont need to mess with the flange or anything is that correct? Did you dent your water pipe?
 

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I have the Hx40 with FP manifold and i had to bairly dent my water pipe.
 
So can anyone snap a pic of the "anti surge" opening on the hx35? I'm looking for the openings in the webbing part. I don't see any openings in the hx35 that I have here. What I mean by opening is where the webbing is there appears to be no entrance cut into the housing that would feed air to the compressor wheel. It looks like on the inducer gets air like any MHI turbo.
 
So can anyone snap a pic of the "anti surge" opening on the hx35? I'm looking for the openings in the webbing part. I don't see any openings in the hx35 that I have here. What I mean by opening is where the webbing is there appears to be no entrance cut into the housing that would feed air to the compressor wheel. It looks like on the inducer gets air like any MHI turbo.
Yes is there a tag? To be 100% sure you will need to pull at least the compressor cover and give us the measurement of the inducer and exducer.

1994-1998: HX35 = Webbing + bolton cover + surge port + 56mm inducer + 8blades + 12cm^2 turbine housing + wastegate
1994: WH1C = Webbing + vband cover + surge port + 56mm inducer + 8blades + 12cm^2 turbine housing + wastegate
1991-1993 (intercooled): Big H1C = Webbing + vband + no surge port + 54mm inducer + 8blades + 18.5/21cm^2 turbine housing + freefloating
1991-1993 (non intercooled): Small H1C = No webbing + vband cover + no surge port + 50-52mm inducer + 8blades + 18.5/21cm^2 turbine housing + freefloating
Up to 1990?: Baby H1C = No webbing + bolton cover + no surge port + 45mm inducer + 7blades + 18.5/21cm^2 turbine housing? + freefloating
 
Ive been trying to follow these holset threads, but it takes some time to get through these 30 pagers! Deffinately seems like the holset scene is growing quite a bit from that first thread though. How's come you guys have chosen the holset platform vs. the Borg warner?
 
I'd have to say that cost is probably the biggest reason. Holsets are easier to find used and can be rebuilt for a significantly smaller total investment. Even with the added cost of a BEP housing, a rebuilt Holset can be had for around half of what most vendors are charging for BW units.
 
I think alot of people are going holset obviously for performance and price as they can be had used for cheap and are easily rebuildable. Borg warners are gaining popularity because of their extended tip turbochargers that are making great numbers. It is more difficult to find the BWs used but they are rebuildable as well. I think a lot of people are switching to BorgWarner and Holset partly because of the cartridge quality versus Garrett.
 
I think alot of people are going holset obviously for performance and price.

I think a lot of people are switching to BorgWarner and Holset partly because of the cartridge quality versus Garrett.

I think you hit the nail squarely on the head. :thumb:

A relatively low cost option and a strong reliability factor makes for a nice overall package.
 
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