Holset Turbos, PART 6

[viperlp01]

Well i have mounted my WH1C.. I have been taking pictures of what i have had to do to make it fit. I had to grind away at the block alittle to fit the compressor.. It seems like the 2g wide block design makes this harder but i don't know... The compressor cover is huge and i really had to dent the water pipe.. I had a few questions though..

The line that goes from the thermo housing to the OFH had to come out to fit the comp housing.. Is there any other way to run that line. Im debating on running rad hose from the thermo housing all the way down there but i dont know if it will hold up to the heat. I would have to run it right under the manifold right above the water pipe..

 

[tim4g63fast]

1. Some of the HX40's are are 4" exhaust outlets and some are 3", Hard to say which one it might be. T4 housing I would say 4", Being a T3 I would guess 3".

2.I dont think you'll need a restrictor feeding from the head, as the oil pressure is already much lower than the OFH.

3.Compressor housing vband should be 2.5", or you can grind off the flange some leaving a "bead" so you can put a 2.5" silicone coupler on, or weld a 90 degree alum elbow. Fitment will tight against the front motor mount (1G). Stock Fan will be in the way.

4. FP sells a good T3/T4 oil return with a stock mitsu oil pan flange.

so the return port is just a regular t3 return?

the 90 degree elbow, I was just thinkgin of one of those looking at vibrant stuff. Should it be a 2.5" elbow or a 2 1/4"

 

[viperlp01]

what i did for the oil return line was i went to napa and got this oil resistant 3/4 in about 6in long tubing.. Then i ordered a t3 flange off ebay for 11 dollars shipped and im using a stock 2g oil return line and cut it about 2 inches above the flex section and put them all together... the 2g oil return line is the bigger than the 1g... But its still smaller then whats recommended.. The 3/4in tubing is about 18.9mm which is right on spec for a holset return

 

[V8killerturbo4]

what i did for the oil return line was i went to napa and got this oil resistant 3/4 in about 6in long tubing.. Then i ordered a t3 flange off ebay for 11 dollars shipped and im using a stock 2g oil return line and cut it about 2 inches above the flex section and put them all together... the 2g oil return line is the bigger than the 1g... But its still smaller then whats recommended.. The 3/4in tubing is about 18.9mm which is right on spec for a holset return

Yeah thats basically what FP is building.

Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP Blue Oil Drain Tube

 

[V8killerturbo4]

so the return port is just a regular t3 return?

the 90 degree elbow, I was just thinkgin of one of those looking at vibrant stuff. Should it be a 2.5" elbow or a 2 1/4"

2.5" elbow, just remember that you will need to clock the turbo just right to fit it in between the Front motor mount and the Fans. Its very tight!

 

[V8killerturbo4]

Well i have mounted my WH1C.. I have been taking pictures of what i have had to do to make it fit. I had to grind away at the block alittle to fit the compressor.. It seems like the 2g wide block design makes this harder but i don't know... The compressor cover is huge and i really had to dent the water pipe.. I had a few questions though..

The line that goes from the thermo housing to the OFH had to come out to fit the comp housing.. Is there any other way to run that line. Im debating on running rad hose from the thermo housing all the way down there but i dont know if it will hold up to the heat. I would have to run it right under the manifold right above the water pipe..

Be careful grinding the block there, it is very thin. Maybe some Radiator hose and thermo wrap insulation sleeves might do the trick. I've got the 90 housing so I dont have that problem.

 

[tim4g63fast]

2.5" elbow, just remember that you will need to clock the turbo just right to fit it in between the Front motor mount and the Fans. Its very tight!

ok.. Before I got sent to Los Angeles I had bought a set of blue point snap ring plires that are huge with bent jaws.. they shouuld work awesome for the housing.

I plan to run a 38mm half sized radiator with FAL fan.

shouldnt have a fittment issue

 

[ninesixtwo]

what i did for the oil return line was i went to napa and got this oil resistant 3/4 in about 6in long tubing.. Then i ordered a t3 flange off ebay for 11 dollars shipped and im using a stock 2g oil return line and cut it about 2 inches above the flex section and put them all together... the 2g oil return line is the bigger than the 1g... But its still smaller then whats recommended.. The 3/4in tubing is about 18.9mm which is right on spec for a holset return

For my oil drain, I picked up one of these mofos:

Turbo Oil lines, T6 / S400 Oil Drain Flange, RPS-T6OIL | RacePartSolutions.com

Went down to home depot, picked up a brass 3/4" NPT fitting and some brass elbows and some hose to fit over them. I brazed one of the fittings onto an enlarged hole in the oil pan, lined all the elbows up, brazed em all up and good to go smallest fitting at the smallest point is 19mm on the dot.

 

[tim4g63fast]

For my oil drain, I picked up one of these mofos:

Turbo Oil lines, T6 / S400 Oil Drain Flange, RPS-T6OIL | RacePartSolutions.com

Went down to home depot, picked up a brass 3/4" NPT fitting and some brass elbows and some hose to fit over them. I brazed one of the fittings onto an enlarged hole in the oil pan, lined all the elbows up, brazed em all up and good to go smallest fitting at the smallest point is 19mm on the dot.

thanks for that Idea that will work wonders I just down and to neck the return line down and end up screwing it up since its fresh rebuild. I have a long time to go before I am actually pushing exhaust gas through it but im trying to take car off all the small stuff right now.

 

[viperlp01]

Ya i know the grinding on the black was bad but i only grinded on the bolt area... Just enough to fit the housing in there.. But im just waiting on my PR o2 housing and the oil drain fitting.. I think im going to have to clock the chra because the angle of my oil drian is about 5* pointing towards the front of the car.. I can make it easily work but idk. I can probably just loosen up all 6 bolts and twist it..

 

[dsm-onster]

can somebody point me int he right direction or just have the answers and give them to me ..

I have a volvo HX40 I bought from timsturbos

it has a non-devided bep t3 exahsut housing with a vband turbine outlet... what size vband is that? I am 1000 miles from home so I just can measure it.

also If I wanted to feed the turbo from the head what if any restrictor would I need and where could I purchase said restrictor?

The compressor housing is also vband on the outlet, does anybody have the size on that so I can make sure I have the parts when I get home to start fabbing.

last question, is there any good bolt on return line fitting that does not choke the return hole in the center section?

sorry for the questions but I am working 7days a week 12+ hours a day so i dont have a lot of surfing time..

thanks

What ever rout you take, PLEASE!!! dont feed from anywhere without having an oil pressure gauge Teed off the oil line inlet at the turbo. We don't know what you oil pressure is at the head or OFH. You don't either. The turbo will tell you though, by blowing up or smoking, or running fine. It's your call Roll the dice or buy an adapter for your fuel pressure gauge you should already have since you have a large fuel pump.

If we're going to put after market turbos (non oem) on our car, we need to know the perameters the motor presents to the turbo. Otherwise we're rolling dice.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Looking at water/air intercooler setups but not sure if I can go with one that has a 2.5 inch inlet/outlet (could get it to fit better in the car) or if I need to go bigger. What size outlet does the HX35 have on it? Probably cut off the v-band flange and have an elbow welded on but dunno what size. Building for a T-28 right now but wanna have the parts ready for when I upgrade. Thanks.

 

[viperlp01]

Its 2.5 and depending on which one you get, you might get a normal outlet(no v-band).. I got a v band outlet and i just grinded it down... Not a big deal

Just to let you know.. I am using the fp race manifold and bep bolt on housing. I am running a short route FMIC and the only modification from the 16g to the WH1C was to take my old peice of piping that had a 2.5-2 reducer and cut that off.. Then take a random peice of 2.5 90 degree and cut it to size. It went right together.. I bought 2 more couplers and 4 more t bolt clamps and made it work.. I was VERY suprised on how easy and close it was...

 

[ninesixtwo]

Looking at water/air intercooler setups but not sure if I can go with one that has a 2.5 inch inlet/outlet (could get it to fit better in the car) or if I need to go bigger. What size outlet does the HX35 have on it? Probably cut off the v-band flange and have an elbow welded on but dunno what size. Building for a T-28 right now but wanna have the parts ready for when I upgrade. Thanks.

If you want to use v-bands then you'll need a 2.5" one. The outlet itself is smaller than 2.5" but the 2.5" vibrant v-band has the correct locating ring machined into it.

 

[turbotalon1g]

^Can u post pics of your oil drain please?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Thanks for the info guys, on the outlet.

 

[viperlp01]

I can when i get my fitting in.. I went an got 6in of 3/4in/19mm oil resis hose today.. The 5/8s wouldn't fit over the stock bottom half of the drain..

 

[tim4g63fast]

What ever rout you take, PLEASE!!! dont feed from anywhere without having an oil pressure gauge Teed off the oil line inlet at the turbo. We don't know what you oil pressure is at the head or OFH. You don't either. The turbo will tell you though, by blowing up or smoking, or running fine. It's your call Roll the dice or buy an adapter for your fuel pressure gauge you should already have since you have a large fuel pump.

If we're going to put after market turbos (non oem) on our car, we need to know the perameters the motor presents to the turbo. Otherwise we're rolling dice.

I deffinatly plan on teeing off of the feed line to watch the pressure. Just figured if XX ammount of people were all running this restrictor or that restrictor I could buy a few that way im not waiting around on shipping or something when it comes time to actually crank the motor.

Fuel pump wise im running -044 in tank and -044 in line. -8 fuel line .

as far as motor peramiters if you just mean the build

OEM 4g63 crank polished
Acl race rod and crank bearings
Kiggley crank gurdle
ARP crank studs
Manley turbo tuff rod
Arias pistons (currently looking into gapless rings for them)
Moroso oil pan that a AN -12 return will be welded
GMB water pump
OEM oil pump
Jay racing alternator relocation kit for a GM/Saturn alternator
Jay racing -20 water pump fitting which
OEM timing componets, kevlar belt
ARP head studs
Cometic .020 head gasket
Cometic master gasket kit
Fluidamper harmonic damper
ARP bolt for damper
Quarter master 7.25 twin disk
MAP twin disc flywheel and bolt kit
ARP flywheel bolts
OEM new modified clutch fork for twin disk
New OEM throw out bearing
head is manley ss valves, kiggley spring and retainers,ble lifters, mild port and polish jmf race intake, q45 throttle body

I would keep listing stuff but the list would seem to neve end

is that what you were wondering? Im in the middle of building it probably 4 months away from putting it in the car.

 

[dsm-onster]

No I was saying we need to know the perameters all inclusinve. I need to know my oil pressure of my setup, and you neet to know the same for your setup. It's something that has to be discovered not guessed.

However, I see where you're headed: a good place to start. Honestly I think the best place to start is at the OFH with a .065" restrictor. The just go down in size per the gauge reading. I guarantee you won't need less restrictor with no bshafts. . .

And remember, you can check your oil pressure at idle, spool rpm and redline in the drive way while putting no load on the turbo at all.

 

[Slippi84]

I just started a new job as a bus mechanic for a company called SEPTA and today during training we went down to this garage and I thought I was in heaven . EVERY engine either uses a Gt42r or a hx40 or bigger

 

[Gooberlog]

I just started a new job as a bus mechanic for a company called SEPTA and today during training we went down to this garage and I thought I was in heaven . EVERY engine either uses a Gt42r or a hx40 or bigger

I can see it now "Have you seen the HX-40 that was on this bus anywhere?"
Slippi: "No, i haven't seen it around, do you know what it may look like? I'm sure it's not under the hood of my talon"...

 

[Slippi84]

I can see it now "Have you seen the HX-40 that was on this bus anywhere?"
Slippi: "No, i haven't seen it around, do you know what it may look like? I'm sure it's not under the hood of my talon"...

def not me. Besides I already upgraded from the hx40 anyway. NOW the 1.24ar GT42 I saw today .... j/k

 

[Gooberlog]

shoulda have guessed

 

[tim4g63fast]

No I was saying we need to know the perameters all inclusinve. I need to know my oil pressure of my setup, and you neet to know the same for your setup. It's something that has to be discovered not guessed.

However, I see where you're headed: a good place to start. Honestly I think the best place to start is at the OFH with a .065" restrictor. The just go down in size per the gauge reading. I guarantee you won't need less restrictor with no bshafts. . .

And remember, you can check your oil pressure at idle, spool rpm and redline in the drive way while putting no load on the turbo at all.

Where are people actually buying these at?

 

[donniekak]

Where are people actually buying these at?

When i ran a holset i had an aftermarked oil line made to work with a banjo bolt feed. I get a proper sized bolt and drill the size hole in it i want for restriction to make a banjo bolt.