FP 68HTA vs Blouch TD05H 20g/16g XT

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I still like my FP18g Lol
I've ran all variables of housings too(6cm,7cm, and 8cm), the 8cm housing is def my fav as it makes a lot of torque and holds boost till I shift. The 6cm spools too fast for my taste and falls off up top, the 7cm makes decent low-end and mid but starts to fall off up top and the 8cm just pulls like a freight train..

 

[gofer]

Is there a way to get the 68HTA to be a downward facing turbo? That way I wouldn't have to use the J pipe. I read on a different thread that the subaru 68HTA compressor housing is different than the DSM 68HTA.

You sure can, PM AlphaVision. He did it to his to take car of j-pipe difficulties he said he was having. All he had to do was cut another hole for the locater pin (which isn't necessary) and figure out a way to mount the wga since he wasn't running external.

Technically if you wanted to do it, and you were running it externally gated, all you would have to do is remove the locater pin and clock it downward however you want it.

 

[Talipse96]

You sure can, PM AlphaVision. He did it to his to take car of j-pipe difficulties he said he was having. All he had to do was cut another hole for the locater pin (which isn't necessary) and figure out a way to mount the wga since he wasn't running external.

Technically if you wanted to do it, and you were running it externally gated, all you would have to do is remove the locater pin and clock it downward however you want it.

Thank you for the idea. I read how Paul clocked a 16G and welded another pipe to it to keep it from any boost leaks.
Is the HTA small enough to where the internal WG can handle it well, or is there possible spiking issues? Just want to know so I can justify doing custom work to get the internal WG to bolt back on.

How well would the 20G TD05H from Forced Performance with the 7cm housing from a 16G instead of the T3 hot side it comes with spool compared to the 68HTA?

 

[gofer]

I've only ran my HTA68 externally gated off of the o2 housing, I'm sure you'd notice some boost spike running it internally gated. My HTA68 hits 30psi at 4200 rpm, maybe someone that runs a tdo5 20g with a Mitsu housing can comment.

A friend runs a Frank 2 (TD06 20g) @ 30psi, basically a very similar setup to mine, which dyno'd 380whp, 375tq on the same dyno as me. I'm not sure what the spool time was but that should show how big of a "punch" the FP HTA68 has over a slightly bigger turbo... He might be able to help with spool time numbers if you send him a PM, his screen name here is awdmonster1904.

 

[Talipse96]

I've only ran my HTA68 externally gated off of the o2 housing, I'm sure you'd notice some boost spike running it internally gated. My HTA68 hits 30psi at 4200 rpm, maybe someone that runs a tdo5 20g with a Mitsu housing can comment.

A friend runs a Frank 2 (TD06 20g) @ 30psi, basically a very similar setup to mine, which dyno'd 380whp, 375tq on the same dyno as me. I'm not sure what the spool time was but that should show how big of a "punch" the FP HTA68 has over a slightly bigger turbo... He might be able to help with spool time numbers if you send him a PM, his screen name here is awdmonster1904.

I don't want to get to far off topic but I am trying to get 400AWHP as quick as possible while keeping it a fun street driven car. (I try and do my research as much as possible but sometimes I would like it if people could spoon feed me some information)

With your numbers that you posted above was that with E85 or pump?
I'll have to PM him for sure because E316G's can make that kind of power. "So I've heard"

To bad somebody doesn't make a TD06H DBB turbo that doesn't fall off up top.

 

[gofer]

My license plate wouldn't say "CORNFED" if I was running gasoline.

 

[AlphaVision]

Thanks for the referal, Corey. I drove my car for the first time on Sunday and I am not pleased with the turbo. It holds 10psi from around 4K to 5K. Then it starts to build boost so freakin rapidly that almost breaks my neck even though I am breaking it in and she's rich, throttle hasn't been past 70% and RPM haven't gone more than 6K. So I will havse to work around this (which will describe in another topic to prevent this one from hijacking). The only thing is that so far my setup is not the one to be following until I solve the issues

 

[awdmonster1904]

I've only ran my HTA68 externally gated off of the o2 housing, I'm sure you'd notice some boost spike running it internally gated. My HTA68 hits 30psi at 4200 rpm, maybe someone that runs a tdo5 20g with a Mitsu housing can comment.

A friend runs a Frank 2 (TD06 20g) @ 30psi, basically a very similar setup to mine, which dyno'd 380whp, 375tq on the same dyno as me. I'm not sure what the spool time was but that should show how big of a "punch" the FP HTA68 has over a slightly bigger turbo... He might be able to help with spool time numbers if you send him a PM, his screen name here is awdmonster1904.

whats up guys well here is what i think about my car setup

SPOOL TIME: turbo starts spooling at 3500 rpm at full boost by 4000 rpm
as fars as comparing it I know the HTA 68 has a TDO5 turbine and I dont know it the HTA dies on top
I know that my FRANKL2 has a TDO6 turbine wheel and my Torque curve is pretty flat from 4K all that way to 8K SO it packs a punch
I recently changed my intake Cam for in favor of a 272 intake I havent dynoed it with the new cam yet

IMO if you want to make power on a 16g or 20g running more octane and more boost will definitely help you
I know my 20g was only making 310 hp 300tq on 91 piss gas on 25 psi


Gofer : does your HTA die on top like a 16g ?? just wondering is that was an issue

I don't want to get to far off topic but I am trying to get 400AWHP as quick as possible while keeping it a fun street driven car. (I try and do my research as much as possible but sometimes I would like it if people could spoon feed me some information)

With your numbers that you posted above was that with E85 or pump?
I'll have to PM him for sure because E316G's can make that kind of power. "So I've heard"

To bad somebody doesn't make a TD06H DBB turbo that doesn't fall off up top.

don't want to get to far off topic but I am trying to get 400AWHP as quick as possible while keeping it a fun street driven car. (I try and do my research as much as possible but sometimes I would like it if people could spoon feed me some information)


E85 or meth injection for fuel ethier a 20g or hta will get you 400hp with good suppurating mods


With your numbers that you posted above was that with E85 or pump?
I'll have to PM him for sure because E316G's can make that kind of power. "So I've heard"


All my numbers are on E85
Yes a EvoIII can make the power as well but you need the octane





To bad somebody doesn't make a TD06H DBB turbo that doesn't fall off up top.


I s not if its ball Bering or not its all about the exhaust flow of the turbine wheel
factors like turbine housing and turbine wheels take in place

you can have a DBB 35R but if it has a crappy turbine and housing its not going to flow efficiently

 

[JusMX141]

I'd just go with the 68HTA. Unless you wanna fork up the exta $200 for a blouch 20g, a non stock looking turbo that flows around the same.

FP DSM68HTA = $925
Blouch TD05H 20G-XT = $899

 

[sprmotohooligan]

I'd just go with the 68HTA. Unless you wanna fork up the exta $200 for a blouch 20g, a non stock looking turbo that flows around the same.

Everyone loves a sleeper

FP DSM68HTA = $925
Blouch TD05H 20G-XT = $899

Blouch TD06H 20G-XT = $1099

Which is about 200 more then the Forced Performance unit and not stock looking like the FP or the TD05H.

I think the former poster accidentally got his Blouch 20G's mixed up; I forgive though

 

[JusMX141]

Blouch TD06H 20G-XT = $1099

Which is about 200 more then the Forced Performance unit and not stock looking like the FP or the TD05H.

I think the former poster accidentally got his Blouch 20G's mixed up; I forgive though

Right...which is why I was confused as the TD06H-20G-XT is a turbo that isn't even close to a 68HTA in appearance or turbine spec. If we're talking about TD06H-spec turbos with non-OEM compressor covers here, the Blouch TD06H-20G-XT would better compare to the FP Green at the same price.

 

[dsm-onster]

Meanwhile you can get a td05h 20g with the bigger, easier to clock compressor housing from fp for $539 and slide it right into your 16g turbine housing. And have the same thing as the blouch td05h 20g with that better compressor housing. With a left over t3 housing that is big enough for your next goal with the turbo. $400 for a silly too small turbine housing is rediculous

 

[JusMX141]

Meanwhile you can get a td05h 20g with the bigger, easier to clock compressor housing from fp for $539 and slide it right into your 16g turbine housing. And have the same thing as the blouch td05h 20g with that better compressor housing.

I'm not convinced the MHI 20G would be the same as the Blouch 20G with the Blouch turbo having a billet compressor wheel, but you'd definitely have something comparable in airflow that does not use a j-pipe, and an extra $400 in your pocket as well.

 

[Talipse96]

I'm not convinced the MHI 20G would be the same as the Blouch 20G with the Blouch turbo having a billet compressor wheel, but you'd definitely have something comparable in airflow that does not use a j-pipe, and an extra $400 in your pocket as well.

This is what I have been looking into. I have been trying to see what the flow would be like on my car and at what RPM.

Has a company (hopefully FP) ever made a deal to sell a turbo without a couple things like their hot side and WG to save the consumer some money? I want that downward facing 20G but not the T3 housing or the internal WG.

I think to get an accurate answer I would have to contact them directly. What do you guys think... do you think they would do that for somebody?

 

[rx7ttlm]

OP-if its going into a 1g, i would say the FP turbo. I have personally seen this in action and its good shit. For a bolt in package I would say its hard to beat. It is a little spendy but you want a 400+ hp stock mounting location, bolt on monster. This is the answer. You want more stuff to bolt on and pay for get a 30R. But this is going to be more than enough for most people. The down side is that if you want to run big power at 20 psi it's probably not going to happen. For that you will need a bigger turbo.

Cheers

Is the wheel for the 68HTA billet? If so, would that not allow for a better efficiency rating hence better performance? I am just trying to push things along in order to provide the OP the information being requested.

Negative, assuming the same core design there is minimal difference between cast and billet other than the core material strength difference. The reason they are making billet compressor wheels is for the low volume runs its cheaper to not make a mold for casting and just make them out of billet. Think tooling cost.

 

[gofer]

No. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Forced Performance, but when I ordered my HTA68 I tried getting them to drop the exhaust manifold $50 like they do for the group buy and they wouldn't budge.

 

[rx7ttlm]

This is what I have been looking into. I have been trying to see what the flow would be like on my car and at what RPM.

Has a company (hopefully FP) ever made a deal to sell a turbo without a couple things like their hot side and WG to save the consumer some money? I want that downward facing 20G but not the T3 housing or the internal WG.

I think to get an accurate answer I would have to contact them directly. What do you guys think... do you think they would do that for somebody?

you can always buy a center sections and build from there if you already have a hot side. Downside to that is you get no warranty

 

[dsm-onster]

This is what I have been looking into. I have been trying to see what the flow would be like on my car and at what RPM.

Has a company (hopefully FP) ever made a deal to sell a turbo without a couple things like their hot side and WG to save the consumer some money? I want that downward facing 20G but not the T3 housing or the internal WG.

I think to get an accurate answer I would have to contact them directly. What do you guys think... do you think they would do that for somebody?

You actually have a compressor map for the fp td05h 10g discussed here. Not for the blouch billit 20g of course. But apparently it has the same shape as the regular 20g. So the only difference is the smaller compressor housing, which is good for boost efficiency but bad for surge. the regular 20g compressor in the right turbine housing already surges per reports here and elsewhere. not bad but still a minor concern. The billet wheel would help save the compressor. But you still have surge instead of spool,if you're one of those lucky enough to see it. Going for something less prone tu surge and more prone to flow is what I would look at. . . But call them for sure. They would tell you what the td05h 20g with the 17c td06 compressor cover will do for sure.

 

[JusMX141]

Has a company (hopefully FP) ever made a deal to sell a turbo without a couple things like their hot side and WG to save the consumer some money? I want that downward facing 20G but not the T3 housing or the internal WG.

They've been doing this for years- it's called the BR20G, and it has a price tag higher than anything we've discussed thus far.

You actually have a compressor map for the fp td05h 20g discussed here. Not for the blouch billit 20g of course. But apparently it has the same shape as the regular 20g.

Not exactly the same shape, but I believe it does have the same inducer and exducer spec as a MHI 20G. We know this because of this picture of a Blouch 20G-XT using the old standard MHI cover:

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A 68HTA compressor will not fit behind a 20G cover because the inducer is smaller.

Of course, the Blouch compressor is a bit updated in comparison to the old cast MHI wheel:

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[gofer]

Speaking of surge, running my HTA68 at 30psi she surges pretty good until I hit full boost.

 

[Talipse96]

They've been doing this for years- it's called the BR20G, and it has a price tag higher than anything we've discussed thus far.

I don't feel bad going a little off subject because it is still dealing close to the same turbos the OP is talking about.

So the https://secure.buschurracing.com/ca...d=434&osCsid=4f9b461d2916ef4692ccd73867071515 is a TD05 with a TD06 housing correct? How does this compare to the Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi 20g Turbocharger BUT with the 7cm 16G hot side?

If this is to far off subject please move it to http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/393636-questions-justin.html

 

[JusMX141]

So the https://secure.buschurracing.com/ca...d=434&osCsid=4f9b461d2916ef4692ccd73867071515 is a TD05 with a TD06 housing correct?

It's a TD05H turbine with a ridiculous clip (20* plus) and a downfiring compressor cover.

How does this compare to the Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi 20g Turbocharger BUT with the 7cm 16G hot side?

It's the same with an aggressive clip to the turbine and a heavy price tag.

 

[Talipse96]

So I just sent Forced Performance an email. I asked if they could sell their 20G without the T3 housing and internal WG. Hopefully I get a reply back today. fingers crossed!

 

[JusMX141]

Why not just buy the turbo as-is and pick up a knockoff Evo III turbine housing from eBay? Much simpler.

 

[Boug]

So I just sent Forced Performance an email. I asked if they could sell their 20G without the T3 housing and internal WG. Hopefully I get a reply back today. fingers crossed!

I have never fully understood why FP sells their 20G in a T3 housing. I agree with Justin and then you can just send him the turbo directly to get squared away.