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FP 68HTA vs Blouch TD05H 20g/16g XT

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So can anybody confirm what I asked here?

Ok I have a MHI small 16g, and an eBay 7cm turbine housing that came on a knock off e3 16g.

The small 16g needs a rebuild. Can i use the CHRA of the small 16g (after being rebuilt) with the eBay turbine housing and the eBay 20g kit (compressor housing/20g wheel)?
 
Has ANYONE seen PERSONALLY one of those Blouch turbo's on a dsm running? (Dyno, Track, Street, Etc.?)


Yea that. I am still turbo shopping and I am leaning towards the td05h-20g xt. Still undecided on this or the new non mitsu housing FP Green. :confused:

Good job on pulling the trigger on that 20G.

I have to agree with Donnie on this one.

I've had an EVO and I can tell you that it's entirely way more expensive trying to build it into an 11-second car. I'm not going to go into the details but every aspect of the car has to be addressed. I've seen a 1G with hardly any modifications run sub-11s. You'd be hard-pressed to find an EVO in such condition.

I have and love both, I will agree on the that if you are only speaking drag aspect. But not everyone drags evos. I daily my evo and it's just overall fun to drive. (mods are just a catback)

I'm a dragster at heart and that's one of the reasons I love my DSM.:thumb:
 
Yea that. I am still turbo shopping and I am leaning towards the td05h-20g xt. Still undecided on this or the new non mitsu housing FP Green. :confused:

In my opinion, there's no comparison between the 20G and the FP Green as the FP Green is a larger and higher flowing turbo. The comparisons I believe this thread is about pertains to the 68HTA and the 20G.
 
^^^ Exactly what i was going to say, until scrollong down to see you already said it. He needs to get his goals decided or get down to more research. . . he's talking a 16g hot side vs the green hotside with a non-bolton housing.
 
^^^ Exactly what i was going to say, until scrollong down to see you already said it. He needs to get his goals decided or get down to more research. . . he's talking a 16g hot side vs the green hotside with a non-bolton housing.


Sorry, I meant non Mitsubishi turbine housing. But point well taken, I need to research on my goals.

Thanks :thumb:
 
As much as I don't want to clutter this thread, BUT i'm going to anyway. Evo's run 11's on good gas with the stock turbo and bolt-ons/tune? So i'm really not sure what you guys are thinking. My evo x went bottom 12's with an intercooler, pipes, and a turboback exhaust with my own tuning and that car weighed 3700lbs with me in it.
 
They run 11's because they come from the factory with an 11sec turbo and healthier cams and a better tranny and a better ecu and umpteen other 'betters'. It's still cheaper to get a dsm into the 11s. What do you pay for EVOs where you live? I think THIS is what folks here are attempting to say.
 
Keeping up with this thread, has anyone yet seen the Blouch turbo on a car? I emailed then 3 times already about putting there 20g-XT wheel on my MHI big 16g and they haven't gotten back to me yet. FP said they and I quote "It's not worth the time or money to upgrade a journal bearing turbo of that size".. So????
 
Thay said that because they are right. You can get a WHOLE td05h 20g for 500 brand new. And with your 16g turbine housing you have now, it will be basically the same as the blouch turbo but with a better compressor housing. And have a nice turbo now that has more grunt than an evo3 16g. Then have the larger 10cm^2 housing it comes with for down the road when you want to push the turbo.
 
"clean dsms are not a dime a dozen at all" There old and very nice examples are ver hard to find, when it comes to 1gs
 
I just read this whole thread and everyone went off the thread topic. I am looking at the turbos mentioned in the title of this thread. I would like to know the opinions on those two turbo and them only. I dont want to do a monster 20 or rebuild a 16 with a 20g housing just the Mitsubishi TD05H-20G-XT Turbocharger or the FP 68hta

Thank you :)
 
Bottom Line: I believe that with the newer technology contained in the 68HTA that it would be a better choice than the Blouch 20G.
 
The stated flow of the 68hta compressor IS about the same as a 20g compressor. And if a compressor is more efficient, it requires less from the turbine to spool and maintain.
 
The stated flow of the 68hta compressor IS about the same as a 20g compressor. And if a compressor is more efficient, it requires less from the turbine to spool and maintain.

Is the wheel for the 68HTA billet? If so, would that not allow for a better efficiency rating hence better performance? I am just trying to push things along in order to provide the OP the information being requested.
 
Bottom Line: I believe that with the newer technology contained in the 68HTA that it would be a better choice than the Blouch 20G.
...but the 20G-XT still has a larger compressor inducer, and it also features a redesigned billet wheel with a smaller hub area similar to the 68HTA compressor.

I think it would be great to see a back-to-back comparison, but that will probably never happen.
 
...but the 20G-XT still has a larger compressor inducer, and it also features a redesigned billet wheel with a smaller hub area similar to the 68HTA compressor.

I think it would be great to see a back-to-back comparison, but that will probably never happen.

So the bottom line for the OP is that it would be a toss up and he would be pleased with either, correct?
 
You got it.

Both have their benefits for the price, both are made from what began life as a MHI turbo, and both are built by companies that have had a great reputation in the forced induction industry for years. It all comes down to which you prefer....Lowes, or Home Depot. :D
 
Even if a back to back comparison were done I still don't think it would prove anything, there are too many variables even if you did the swap while the car was on the dyno. I think the only way to really see what each turbo is really capable of is getting a compressor map for each, which will never happen either. :rolleyes:

:dsm:
 
AMEN! you need to see which one puts more work to boost instead of to heat. . . But honestly this is easy to do. A pair of IAT sensors and regular tuning to the limit of the compressor's flow would give you absolutely all the data you need to actually compile a real map just like a turbo builder does in their test environment.

The billet aspect has nothing to do with performance, but durability. The issue comes down to the efficiency of the already displayed 20g compressor map vs. the hta 68 map. . . So go out and generate it. It's as easy as tuning for 1-2 psi increases and just getting the 'before' IAT input and 'after' charge air temp before intercooling. . .
 
I'd just go with the 68HTA. Unless you wanna fork up the exta $200 for a blouch 20g, a non stock looking turbo that flows around the same.

Everyone loves a sleeper :thumb:
 
Is there a way to get the 68HTA to be a downward facing turbo? That way I wouldn't have to use the J pipe. I read on a different thread that the subaru 68HTA compressor housing is different than the DSM 68HTA.
 
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