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Fp 68hta

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tork

Probationary Member
3
0
Nov 14, 2010
Chico, California
Ok so I have a few questions about the FP 68HTA Turbo.

Is this turbo really worth the extra $500 compared to the evo 3 16g?
I am shopping for a turbo and have the supporting mods for a 16g,but im curious how good the turbo is on the street also compared to the evo 3 spool wise..
How many of you who have the 68HTA actually noticed the difference?
Any information is greatly apreciated.


I searched,but there wasn't alot of real world experience.
 
People have been making good power on the 68HTA, it pretty much replaced the FP18g(an original one) which is what I'm running but flows like 3lb/min more than my turbo and my turbo makes enough power for me. Lots and lots of torque for a stock frame turbo.
 
Is this turbo really worth the extra $500 compared to the evo 3 16g?
There are two sides to this.

- Is a 47lb/min direct bolt-on turbo with MHI reliability worth $900? Absolutely.

- Is it fair that FP is taking a Big 16G that they're most likely getting a hell of a price on (by buying a pallet at a time), changing the compressor wheel, machining the compressor cover, and selling it at $500 profit? Probably not....I honestly feel like the price could be even better than it is, but if people are paying it there's no reason to drop the price now.
 
Thankyou Dsmdeliveryboy,and jusmx141. I have decided to try this turbo out with the information you both have provided. Thanks again
 
And i as well am gonna get this turbo but curious if it will be worth it because i was thinking about that turbo, a walbro 255 fuel pump, fmic, turbo timer, dsmlink on the stock maf. so im guessing if ill see a good hp gain or if there is anything else i should get?
 
And i as well am gonna get this turbo but curious if it will be worth it because i was thinking about that turbo, a walbro 255 fuel pump, fmic, turbo timer, dsmlink on the stock maf. so im guessing if ill see a good hp gain or if there is anything else i should get?

You can't max out a 14b on the 1g maf. I would get the mods you are planning on and work on tuning with the 14b, and some slightly larger injectors.
 
Just look at the diffrence in cfm bretween the two and youll get your answer. And since its in a stock appearing housing spool isnt affected and u get sleeper look.
 
i would build with my 14b but it went south if you know what i mean. so thats why im looking for a direct bolt on turbo that is slightly bigger then a 14b but no bigger then a 18 or 20g turbo. im not looking for a 400whp car this summer just something faster then 15s like i ran last summer
 
with the mods i staed im gonna get and the fp 68hta turbo. Should i keep the stock maf or get a gm 3" maf. And what should i run for a bov. Any info would be greatly apreciated. Thank You

and im gonna get a wideband and a dyno tune. Thank you
 
I just saw a FP68HTA on the dyno the other day and it was very impressive. Not much more lag and made quite a bit more power. Still dropped off a little at the top. Not sure if thats the hot side or stock head...
 
with the mods i staed im gonna get and the fp 68hta turbo. Should i keep the stock maf or get a gm 3" maf. And what should i run for a bov. Any info would be greatly apreciated. Thank You

and im gonna get a wideband and a dyno tune. Thank you

im using the stock maf and a greddy type rs bov and love it. you just have to recirculate with the stock maf
 
with the mods i staed im gonna get and the fp 68hta turbo. Should i keep the stock maf or get a gm 3" maf. And what should i run for a bov. Any info would be greatly apreciated. Thank You

and im gonna get a wideband and a dyno tune. Thank you

i would upgrade to a 2g maf and stay away from the gm maf and translator and your stock 1g bov should be fine
 
I think that the Evo 3 16g will better suit your needs. I have the 68hta so feel free to pm me if you have any questions about the turbo. The 68hta has a smoother transition into boost,more intake noise,and more on top. The 16g just hits hard,and then not a lot up top. You can definitely tell the difference between the two, but for your goals I say 16g imo.
 
with the mods i staed im gonna get and the fp 68hta turbo. Should i keep the stock maf or get a gm 3" maf. And what should i run for a bov. Any info would be greatly apreciated. Thank You

and im gonna get a wideband and a dyno tune. Thank you

I would say just use a 2G maf/1G bov also. Cheap and effective for your goals
 
the 16g is a good choice. it can get 300whp with a good tune and supporting mods. I have that on my car and before it gets tuned, it put down nearly 270 awhp and same with tq. the only mods I have over most people are higher compression and much larger injectors, other than that, the 16g is a good upgrade for what the OP is wanting to do. It is a fairly easy bolt-on and spools fairly quickly so that it is very usable with its powerband.

The higher compression just makes it better to drive off boost for me. the stock 7.8 is a little sluggish off boost on my old talons.
 
I'd say unless you plan to run the turbo to its max, the 68HTA won't be worth the extra money to you. If you're throwing a lot of money at your car and want the most performance possible out of a stock appearing turbo then the 68HTA is definitely worth the extra money in my opinion, but if you just want a fairly quick car without investing a ton of money, stick with the Evo III 16g.
 
I am kinda new to the turbo sceen and i dont really know how to recirculate aa aftermarket bov.. Any tips for pics of a recirculated aftermarket bov.. any info would be apreciated.

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^^recirculated bov^^

basically your just conneting a house from your bov to your intake. if you dont (while running the stock mas) then your car will run rich because you are releasing metered air into the atmosphere.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/390424-blow-off-valves-mythbusted.html?highlight=recirculating

^^this thread explains it pretty well^^
 
Just look at the diffrence in cfm bretween the two and youll get your answer. And since its in a stock appearing housing spool isnt affected and u get sleeper look.

Implying that you know or have these cfm numbers? If so post up. BTW I'm not talking about the Lb/Min numbers. I've always been curious as to what the 68hta flows in terms of cfms. e316g is rated at 550cfm.
 
Implying that you know or have these cfm numbers? If so post up. BTW I'm not talking about the Lb/Min numbers. I've always been curious as to what the 68hta flows in terms of cfms. e316g is rated at 550cfm.
It doesn't matter which figure you're given.


lb per min. / .069 = CFM

CFM x .069 = lb per min
 
I wouldn't mind seeing the CFM numbers either.

But the 68HTA is easily worth 900$. A Bolt-on stock frame turbo (cough Auto-x rules) that will flow 47lbs/min. Yeah its easily worth 900$ and it will the turbo going on my 2g if this Big 16g ever goes out.
 
with the mods I have, I will get about 300whp and the car will run 12s with that power. You said you wanted something faster than 15s. running high 12s to 13 or so will be pleanty fast for you, I am sure. It doesnt take much to do that. a 16g setup will be very streetable and fewer things that might break. With the larger turbo and even the evo16, if tuned to well over 300whp, things have a tendency to go boom, crack, or other sounds you dont really want to hear. Take it slow and have fun with the car.

make sure you have a good clutch if a stick.
 
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