That sounds deeper than lifter tick. I’d be yanking the oil filter and removing the paper media to check for the forbidden glitter….just to be safe.

If you like those overlays it might be worth it to see if you can toss them in your existing cluster that way you don’t have to mess with an odometer, your mileage will be correct and go up on the cars original cluster as you drive it. Also...

Use a solenoid just before the nozzle and a pressure sensor on the meth line tied into the idle switch input, use secondary maps as the default and revert to primary when the idle switch looses signal, which are set at much safer values.

Please define what you want the fail “safe” to achieve. By definition, methanol injection leans out the main fuel mixture, being fail unsafe. To make it safer, trigger ecmlink with a pressure switch right at the injection nozzle. That way, if no...

I've been a member of every major DSM forum, even some that are no longer around, and this has turned out to be the best. I really have to give Chris credit here, he stuck to his vision. Some of the other hobbies I am more active in could learn a...

🤨 if you're logged in, you shouldn't see very many ads. We do it that way to incentivize more people to log in. You don't have to be a paid member to dramatically cut down the number of ads that are displayed. You just have to log in. But if you...

What leads you to believe it’s the ecu?

Does it overflow during normal driving or specifically after you do a hard pull in the car? Does it do it when cold as well at warmed up or always warm?

Not saying it to start a pissing match but what evidence do you have supporting “composites suck”? I’ve seen more than one person I know personally make multiple 9, and now 8 second passes on a standard felpro composite gasket without it being...

At the start of your log the intake temp is 66 degrees F and by the end after you do a couple pulls it is over 120 degrees F. Your mod profile says your car is mostly stock. If accurate, that means the temp reading is at the stock MAF pre turbo...

Looks good. So before you changed out the HLA's the knock would spike high and slowly decay over time. That is indicative of phantom knock. What you had going on before reducing the timing but with the new HLA's is the knock would increase over...

I think there are two possibilities here. One is phantom knock. If you're confident that nothing is rattling around that shouldn't be, then the sensor could simply be bad. Get a new one, OEM if you can [good luck], and as said above torque it...

Put @Stapl3 's timing maps back in it from post #68. Post up the results.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/crazy-knock-under-part-throttle-low-load-open-loop.543706/page-3#post-153891881

I love learning new things, thanks! Admittedly I change out the radiator cap often because I remove them every quarter mile pass looking for air or every hard street pull. Yes, I’m OCD. Likely this is why I’ve never seen a bad one or the symptoms...

It won’t because the hla’s are post regulator and puke all their oil onto the cam lobes no matter if they are filled or not.

It looks much better and I know the feeling even if it was 20 years ago when I did the exact same thing. You still have work to do, but you’ve done the hardest part. I ‘think’ your timing will need work next. Apologizes if this has already been...

Nope, I've seen boiling as well, all fixed by a new cap.

Use the global sliders to remove 5 degrees of timing from 2500-redline. Take another log and post the file. I’d like to see a change before making suggestions.

The boiling will depend on the concentration. I've had one boil because at atmospheric pressure I was above boiling temp. New cap and a little more antifreeze took care if the problem.

Change the cap before you do anything else, stop overthinking it.