2G MHI TD05H Big16 vs 18G vs 20G

[Justin DuBois]

I love the stock look and bolt on space requirements of Mitsubishi heat shields with the best old parts under them that I can find brought back to life.

Not sure what balance I'm going to like. I prefer early spool.

Down to it - I'm looking to know how a TD05H Big16g with 7cm exhaust internal gate compares to the same - machined for a 18G wheel, and a 20G wheel?

I assume a billet wheel will spool more quickly, given the lower rotating mass?

Given a 11 (edit) 12 blade turbine wheel in a ported internal gate 7cm housing, what is the expected result comparing Big16G, to Machined 18G, to Machined 20G compressor?

I assume there are compromises - you can't get more for nothing.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The billet wheels tend to be a bit heavier. When i did my hybrid 16G the cast wheel was lighter then the KTS billet wheel. I did go for a 7x7 extended tip vs 6x6 but even then i remember being told at the time of a weight increase.

If you want fast spool you could tune for it and have a good turbo thats a midway so better for mid range and not drop off like one normally does.

Or you could look into an 8x8 comp wheel and 9blade turbine wheel.
Yes keeping the stock 12 blade turbine would help spool of course but will then drop off which is not great. So thats why i suggest 9 blade and tune for better low end.

As for the 18g and 20g wheels i cannot comment on that setup as i have never ran them.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The billet wheels tend to be a bit heavier. When i did my hybrid 16G the cast wheel was lighter then the KTS billet wheel. I did go for a 7x7 extended tip vs 6x6 but even then i remember being told at the time of a weight increase.

If you want fast spool you could tune for it and have a good turbo thats a midway so better for mid range and not drop off like one normally does.

Or you could look into an 8x8 comp wheel and 9blade turbine wheel.
Yes keeping the stock 12 blade turbine would help spool of course but will then drop off which is not great. So thats why i suggest 9 blade and tune for better low end.

As for the 18g and 20g wheels i cannot comment on that setup as i have never ran them.

9 blade turbine looked interesting - but JusMX141 advised no warranty if you build with it.

 

[chrysler kid]

Depends what you are building it for. Daily driver and spool time on traffic? Road racing? Just want to measure your rooster on the dyno? Etc

 

[Justin DuBois]

Primary use is street and California/Nevada Road Race time trial track days (not drag racing)

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Road race i would most certainly be enclined to suggest my later option similer to my one i built then. Its spoll is not late late but not as fast as a stock 16g but its very useable still. Pulls very well throughout and does tail off but again not as bad as a stock 16g.

The 9 blade i not worry if it a warranty job as turbos either go bad or they dont. Reading other issues with turbo warranty work makes you wonder why its even offered as they always say its contamination or over speed of the shaft etc.

The only thing you might change slightly is the comp wheel size and if the 18/20g wheel is a better way then thats how you should proceed i think. I never did this due to at the time costs and i wanted it as compact as i could. The later turbo choice will be as compact but only as compact as my end power goals allow. I will work around the rest of that fitment.

Im also not saying mines the best setup btw as its likely not for some or most. I like it for my powerband range this far. Only based on that i think you would to

 

[chrysler kid]

My suggestion for everyone in a turbo build is to max out the turbo before you got bigger. Run a 16g until you have maxeed out the boost settings and are complaining about straightline performance.

My hunch is you will break other pieces that need to be upgraded before you feel like you need to upgrade the turbo.

 

[Justin DuBois]

My suggestion for everyone in a turbo build is to max out the turbo before you got bigger. Run a 16g until you have maxeed out the boost settings and are complaining about straightline performance.

My hunch is you will break other pieces that need to be upgraded before you feel like you need to upgrade the turbo.

Well, I did reach max boost with the Big16G, with a cracked turbine - to the tune of 24psi, and 382 HP at 5600 rpm

I'm looking at parting together a TD05H 20G bastard with clipped 12 blade turbine wheel and 7cm2 ported E3-ish turbine housing under stock heat shields, using a E3-O2 housing.

Ya know - like they should have come from the factory? ;-)

 

[CrackedDSM]

I don’t have any experience with your particular combo but I’m gonna talk as if I’m the foremost expert and give advice like I’m talking down to you.

 

[JusMX141]

Bare facts- the only difference between 16G / 18G / 20G is the compressor trim; the exducer spec is the same on all three. Based on that information alone and not taking anything more into consideration regarding blade count, compressor design, etc. then you'd choose exactly which would suit your power goals mainly based on desired boost level. If you can't decide or you plan to run varying boost levels for street and race, shoot for the one in the middle.

Billet 7/7 compressors are typically heavier than cast 6/6 wheels being billet is a heavier material. This doesn't really take compressor aerodynamics into consideration as a heavier wheel with better aero tech can outspool a lighter wheel that is very turbulent...and even then we're talking about very small, barely-noticeable changes in spool and response between the three.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Bare facts- the only difference between 16G / 18G / 20G is the compressor trim; the exducer spec is the same on all three. Based on that information alone and not taking anything more into consideration regarding blade count, compressor design, etc. then you'd choose exactly which would suit your power goals mainly based on desired boost level. If you can't decide or you plan to run varying boost levels for street and race, shoot for the one in the middle.

Billet 7/7 compressors are typically heavier than cast 6/6 wheels being billet is a heavier material. This doesn't really take compressor aerodynamics into consideration as a heavier wheel with better aero tech can outspool a lighter wheel that is very turbulent...and even then we're talking about very small, barely-noticeable changes in spool and response between the three.

Ah Hah! That helps me a lot.
I wish someone had created a Ball Bearing kit for a TD05H. (they don't exist right?)

 

[Vegas Smith]

I don’t have any experience with your particular combo but I’m gonna talk as if I’m the foremost expert and give advice like I’m talking down to you.

What user here does that remind me of??

 

[JusMX141]

I wish someone had created a Ball Bearing kit for a TD05H. (they don't exist right?)

Why would you want to ruin perfection with extreme sensitivity to balance and oil contamination intolerance? Ball bearing does nothing except provide excessive thrust capacity, which TD05H turbos have no trouble dealing with when oiled correctly.

As a durability mod it's debatable on a turbo that small regarding whether the additional cost, inability to be serviced, unbalance and contamination intolerance, and inability to support shaft speeds above 180K would be worth the .0001% gain in transient response.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Why would you want to ruin perfection with extreme sensitivity to balance and oil contamination intolerance? Ball bearing does nothing except provide excessive thrust capacity, which TD05H turbos have no trouble dealing with when oiled correctly.

As a durability mod it's debatable on a turbo that small regarding whether the additional cost, inability to be serviced, unbalance and contamination intolerance, and inability to support shaft speeds above 180K would be worth the .0001% gain in transient response.

Sooo they don't exist, for a good reason.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Mamba delivered!

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The chambers line up with the E3-02 housing. The alignment with the 2G-02 housing isn’t ideal, so I’ll have to modify my 3” down pipe for the E3 flange.

Has anyone else noticed that shipping from Taiwan is wicked cheap and fast? Way cheaper going into the US than what it costs to ship back.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Mamba delivered!

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The chambers line up with the E3-02 housing. The alignment with the 2G-02 housing isn’t ideal, so I’ll have to modify my 3” down pipe for the E3 flange.

Has anyone else noticed that shipping from Taiwan is wicked cheap and fast? Way cheaper going into the US than what I costs to ship back.

What is that? Is that my old turbine housing or a different one? Looks great either way.

 

[Justin DuBois]

What is that? Is that my old turbine housing or a different one? Looks great either way.

Your turbine is on the car with the Big16G compressor.

This is a new E3 clone from CHSH Turbo - sold by Mamba
TD05H Turbine Housing

 

[CrackedDSM]

Your turbine is on the car with the Big16G compressor.

This is a new E3 clone from Mamba
TD05H Turbine Housing

That looks awesome. Is the waste gate flapper hole ported nice and big like it shows? Honestly about to buy that and rebuild my 14b then slap it together. Lol.

 

[Justin DuBois]

That looks awesome. Is the waste gate flapper hole ported nice and big like it shows? Honestly about to buy that and rebuild my 14b then slap it together. Lol.

Yes - the the flapper hole is nice and big. This is a fine part, and would work with the 14B cartridge great. It would also be a part you keep if you go bigger with a different TD05H cartridge (like a Big16G) etc.