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FP 68HTA vs Blouch TD05H 20g/16g XT

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Why not keep the 10cm housing? The difference in spool is going to be very small. You dont think the 7cm wont choke at all up top? I was planning on running the 10cm with the 20g i picked up.
 
:hmm: Interesting

Would there be any balancing issues since this new compressor wheel was not balance with the shaft/turbine wheel assembly??

Because I thought that was the reason to scribe the compressor wheel to the shaft position when taking any turbo apart.
You only need to scribe the wheel and shaft if you know for sure that the turbo was not balanced as a rotating assembly.

On some turbos it is difficult to tell what type of balance was done because the manufacturer can low-speed balance the assembly on a TurboPac and the balance grinds will be on the backside of the wheel, although generally if the turbo has had the rotating assembly balanced it was done on a VSR with the center housing completely assembled so there are balance grinds on the locknut.


Here's the deal....ALL factory turbo wheels (compressor and turbine) are balanced within spec when you buy them. You can theoretically install two balanced parts and the balance will be within spec, OR you can get the rotating assembly balanced on a TurboPac....OR get the entire assembled center housing balanced on a VSR to assure perfect balance once the turbo is assembled. VSR balancing is crucial for ball bearing turbos where the shaft is not floating on oil....any vibration on a ball bearing unit can mean the rotating assembly does not achieve full rotating speed.

You should NOT change the compressor wheel and re-use an existing lock nut if there are balance grinds present on the lock nut. Once the nut is ground, the compressor wheel that it is mated to cannot change and alignment is CRUCIAL or you risk putting the turbo at more of an unbalance than if the nut had no balance grinds at all.


It should also be noted that balance is much more crucial on turbos with smaller rotating assemblies because of the higher speed that the shaft rotates at. For instance, balance is much more crucial on a T25 than on a GT42 because the GT42 may never reach the shaft speed where severe balance issues would present themselves...therefore the T25 will have a much lower acceptable balance spec than the GT42.
 
Thanks for all the info, Justin and, fellow members.

I started with two choices for turbos and now I am at four choices:

68HTA
Blouch 20g
FP 20g with my own 7cm housing (have to modify actuator)
FP E3 16g and then buy this ebay 20g Monster kit

I can honestly say the last option is in the lead...
I just hope there aren't any drawbacks I am not seeing.
 
If you're going to do the "eBay Monster 20G" thing, you should really try to find a Big 16G or Evo III 16G with a trashed compressor wheel and rebuild it. That way you'll already have the center housing, turbine housing, turbine wheel, and wastegate actuator that you'll need....simply pick up a parts kit then install the 20G compressor and cover and you will have built your own hybrid 20G.

You can probably find a Big 16G with a wrecked compressor for under $150. Add $75ish for a parts kit and $170 for the 20G wheel and cover and you'll have no more than $400 in this project. You can even get the rotating assembly balanced for an additional $45-$65 if that makes you feel better.
 
Thanks for all the info, Justin and, fellow members.

I started with two choices for turbos and now I am at four choices:

68HTA
Blouch 20g
FP 20g with my own 7cm housing (have to modify actuator)
FP E3 16g and then buy this ebay 20g Monster kit

I can honestly say the last option is in the lead...
I just hope there aren't any drawbacks I am not seeing.

I've researched it a bit. The drawback is the small compressor housing doesn't flow as well as the larger 20g compressor cover. So that will lower the efficiency. From what I'm told it limits the upper range more. So it will spool great down low and have a really strong mid range then fall off. Where a 16g will have a slightly better top range with less low/mid range.

I'm running 35+ spikes to hold 25psi to 6500rpm on my e316g. So I was looking into the same options as you. I was thinking a 10cm rear housing on the 16g with the 20g compressor. By the time that was built I could probably just buy HTA series 16g and be done with it. I'm torn.... :confused:
 
Ok I have a MHI small 16g, and an eBay 7cm turbine housing that came on a knock off e3 16g.

The small 16g needs a rebuild. Can i use the CHRA of the 16g with the eBay housing and the eBay 20g kit?

Also where can I buy a rebuild kit for this turbo?

And i figured the 20g wheel/with 16g housing would flow better than the 16g wheel with the 16g housing since it's a larger wheel...
 
That ebay link shows a picture of a TD05H cover that is box stock, it doesn't look cast or machined to fit a 20g. You can still see the chamfer all EVO3 16g compressor housings have on the entrance of the compressor inlet snout. Any 20g or 68HTA has that chamfer machined off because of the increase in compressor inlet I.D. As the ad states "What you see is what you get". Either their picture is wrong, or they are selling a box stock compressor housing.
 
I've researched it a bit. The drawback is the small compressor housing doesn't flow as well as the larger 20g compressor cover. So that will lower the efficiency. From what I'm told it limits the upper range more. So it will spool great down low and have a really strong mid range then fall off. Where a 16g will have a slightly better top range with less low/mid range.

I'm running 35+ spikes to hold 25psi to 6500rpm on my e316g. So I was looking into the same options as you. I was thinking a 10cm rear housing on the 16g with the 20g compressor. By the time that was built I could probably just buy HTA series 16g and be done with it. I'm torn.... :confused:

The big 16g wheel (evo1-2) with the 17c compressor housing flows practically identical at peak flow at the 60% efficiency curve as it does in the td05h compressor housing: click here. The only difference is the surge line is farther to the left. The efficiency of the td05h compressor housing big 16g actually stays up closer to choke than with the bigger housing. The same rpm curves are higher in PR with the smaller housing. It's easier to get to higher boost with a smaller housing. And less heat at higher rpms.

The big 16g, evo3 16g, and 18g all have the same exducer measurements, same fin angle, and slip as the 20g.
 
would an ebay evo 3 16g knock off work cause those are pretty prevalent id assume LOL
No, an eBay knockoff will not work due to the shaft spec.

....and if by "prevalent" you mean "garbage", then you're absolutely correct.
 
In my opinion, the FP 20g with a 7cm housing looks like the cheapest solution for anyone looking for great spool and 50lbs/min. I'm running an HX35 right now at 28psi flowing 47lbs/min. I'm auto, and looking for something much easier to spool. So I have been looking at the HTA and Blouch 20g. If I sell my Holset, I can practically get the MHI 20g for free. Since it's a TD05 I'm sure I will have no problem spooling it on the line.
 
Your HX35 is worth roughly $300-350max on average.. Where can you find a 20g for that price?
 
im REALLY leaning on buying the ebay "monster 20g" kit and installing it onto my mhi e3 16g. but like stated earlier, the housing in the pic does not look machined to fit the wheel. but it "should" be since thats what there selling it as. i think ima dive in first and buy this kit, buy a rebuild kit, and call it a day. hey justin if i rebuild it, slap the wheel and housing on, how much will your re-balance on it cost me? IF it needs it that is.. pm me on that. lets keep this thread going guys!
 
i've been thinking about running the blouch 20g on my talon as well. looks like a good turbo that can put out some power.
 
I would sell it as a package with BEP housing, 4" intake and -10an drain line for around $500. I'm sure there are a few other things I can get rid of. Then I could pick up the FP 20g and slap that in.

Good luck on pulling that much..

I remember hx40s about that price.:hmm:
 
DSMs are still a faster/better plate form than most of the so called tuner "cars"


240sx's cant touch these cars aside from weight is there advantage


I still dont understand why DSMs havent jumped in prices


Ive been looking to buy cars and its hard not to buy another
 
DSMs are still a faster/better plate form than most of the so called tuner "cars"


240sx's cant touch these cars aside from weight is there advantage


I still dont understand why DSMs havent jumped in prices


Ive been looking to buy cars and its hard not to buy another


There is nothing special about a car that's a dime a dozen. Plus, evo's are a much better platform and share the same goods
 
i sucked it up and purchased that 20g from fp. its a thing of beauty cannot wait till this spring to throw it on
 
For a much better platform, they have slower times.

Good job on pulling the trigger on that 20G.

I have to agree with Donnie on this one.

I've had an EVO and I can tell you that it's entirely way more expensive trying to build it into an 11-second car. I'm not going to go into the details but every aspect of the car has to be addressed. I've seen a 1G with hardly any modifications run sub-11s. You'd be hard-pressed to find an EVO in such condition.
 
i sucked it up and purchased that 20g from fp. its a thing of beauty cannot wait till this spring to throw it on

Post pics when you get it! Especially of the actuator mounting positions.
 
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