The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

image.jpg

9!'clipseDOHC's 1g DSM build

I bought this car in 2003 and have been working on, driving, and racing it ever since.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You are doing work Nate! Love it! I'm starting to feel motivated to get back at my car and remove a bit more weight. I've already done most of it of course, but there's still things like going as crazy as you did with the dash and doing the wiring harness. I did the same thing copying artictsi (Jose) with the driving lights, my bracket isn't quite as pretty though. I had to replace one of them recently as it burnt out and I haven't even aimed it properly but night driving is equal to driving with the old dims on. If all you're going to do is race it they'll be great. I've been told cutting out the floor and replacing it isn't worth very much, but if you have the available metal it certainly couldn't hurt, plus there would be an accurate number then. I can't wait until you're finished though! It's going to be really cool to see a true fwd in the hunt again!
 
You are doing work Nate! Love it! I'm starting to feel motivated to get back at my car and remove a bit more weight. I've already done most of it of course, but there's still things like going as crazy as you did with the dash and doing the wiring harness. I did the same thing copying artictsi (Jose) with the driving lights, my bracket isn't quite as pretty though. I had to replace one of them recently as it burnt out and I haven't even aimed it properly but night driving is equal to driving with the old dims on. If all you're going to do is race it they'll be great. I've been told cutting out the floor and replacing it isn't worth very much, but if you have the available metal it certainly couldn't hurt, plus there would be an accurate number then. I can't wait until you're finished though! It's going to be really cool to see a true fwd in the hunt again!

Thanks Shane! I can see how some people (like you :tease:) really get into the weight loss thing. It's addicting. I want to find more stuff to take out now!

The lights that I got have replaceable bulbs so if it ever goes out and I just replace the bulb instead of the whole unit. That was one of the tips Jose gave me when I was talking to him about it.

I think it might not be too much with regular sheet metal but should be a nice chunk with aluminum sheet metal. Now I just need to find where to buy some. I'm also curious how people support it. Just a diagonal brace?!?! Nothing?!?!

I can't wait to see how it will do. I know the weight loss will help but the main thing will be the traction. I'm looking for 13x8 rims now that come in our bolt pattern but not much luck so far. If anyone knows of any please let me know.
 
Kind of a big update! First off, my battery when out so I went ahead a purchased an Odyssey PC680 rather then another full size one that weighs a ton. I fabricated and built my own mount out part of my old garage door opener tract. It turned out great! I'll let the pictures do the talking but as for weights, from the old battery and mount to the new battery and mount I saved 29 lbs!

Battery 1.JPG

My homemade mount and tie down before painting.

Battery 2.JPG

After painting

Battery 3.JPG

The mount installed in the car

Battery 4.JPG

All bolted down and extremely secure. You can't even wiggle it in the slightest.

Also just today my drag wheels and tires came in! Here is the rundown:
  • 13x8 Bogart Racing Fly-Stars with 25x8.7x13 M&H Racemaster slicks up front
  • 15x3 Bogart Racing Fly-Stars with 24x3.6x15 M&H Racemaster skinnies in the back
These suckers are super light!! Even lighter then I was expecting. According to my weights both the fronts and rears weigh about 8.5 lbs each. I even weighed them a few times to make sure it wasn't a mistake. Astonishing!

I test fitted the wheels and they fit perfectly this no rubbing on the brakes or struts. However I will need to pick up some different lug nuts for these wheels.

slicks 1.JPG

The whole package!

slicks 2.JPG

Test fitting the fronts, yes the 13's clear the FWD brakes.

slicks 3.JPG

Close up showing the studs.

slicks 4.JPG

Test fitting the rears.

I'm quite excited and hoping it hit the drag strip soon!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So awesome Nate! I looked at this thread this morning hoping there was an update, checked my subscribed threads just now and seen this! Looks awesome man, can't wait until this thing is making passes again!

Thanks Shane! Maybe by next weekend I can hit the track. I just need to get the tires mounted and get the right lugs.
 
I got my tires mounted this morning and snapped a few pictures really quick. Afterwards I weighed them... HOLY CRAP they are light!!!! Here is the math:

Each of the old street rim/tire combos (BFG G-Force T/A's on 17x6.5" Dodge Avenger wheels) weighs 46.2 lbs. That is 184.8 lbs for all four. The skinnies/rims combo weighs 18.6 lbs. each so for both 37.2 lbs. The slicks/rims combo weigh 26 lbs so 52 for the pair. The total for all four new rims and tires is 89.2 lbs. Subtract that from 184.8 and you get a weight savings of 95.6 lbs from wheels and tires alone! I was astonished!!!

photo 1.JPG

View from the front

photo 2.JPG

Close up of the fronts

photo 3.JPG

Close up of the rears

photo 4.JPG

View from the rear

photo 5.JPG

Money shot!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I like seeing all this progress. I really like the new wheel and tire combo. It looks to be 6lbs lighter than what im running. I can agree, its very addicting looking for weight loss. Cant wait to see the results after the track.
 
So....Rediculously.....Awesome!

I like seeing all this progress. I really like the new wheel and tire combo. It looks to be 6lbs lighter than what im running. I can agree, its very addicting looking for weight loss. Cant wait to see the results after the track.

Thanks so much guys! :thumb:
 
So, how many more lbs. does the 1g have to sweat off yet Nate? Gotta love those money shot pictures with the slicks under the car, I remember when I first put on the Hoosiers I couldn't take enough photos. LOL

:dsm:
 
So, how many more lbs. does the 1g have to sweat off yet Nate? Gotta love those money shot pictures with the slicks under the car, I remember when I first put on the Hoosiers I couldn't take enough photos. LOL

:dsm:
I've dropped 235 pounds since my last weigh in so that leaves just 85 pounds to go to reach my goal of 2200 lbs. I still have full doors including the speakers, all glass, stock gas tank, full exhaust, working power steering, automatic seat belts, and both stock front seats. I think I'll be able to blow my goal out of the water!
Very nice.
Nate, you better tell me when you go to the track i want to see that 1g go.
I'm hoping for this Friday. I just need my front lug nuts to come in. I'm also trying to find a trailer or dolly to borrow so I don't have to swap all four wheels when I get there and before I leave.
 
I have been trying to get down the track but have been running into snags along the way. I went a few weeks ago but it was a complete disaster. I made two 14 second passes spinning the slicks all the way through third gear. It was very cold and windy with no vht. I had the slicks at 14 psi. Afterwards I lowered them to 6psi but didn't get anymore passes in because my alternator went out on me. On the way home all my lights went out and I was driving blacked out at night. Also the car shut off twice and I had to jump it in the middle of the street both times.

After that fiasco I decided not to go back without a trailer so I installed a hitch on my wife's jeep and was planning on renting a trailer from uhaul. The following week I was ready to go but my wife was feeling sick and throwing up (she's pregnant) so I decided to stay home.

The week after that everything was a go so I called up uhaul to rent a trailer but to my surprise they refused to rent one to me. According to them my wife's Jeep doesn't weigh enough to pull my car. They wouldn't even rent me a 2 wheel dolly so it was back to the drawing board.

I considered buying a used trailer or dolly but it wasn't in the budget nor did I have the space to keep one at my house. This left a tow bar as my only option. I happen to have one in the garage that came with the Jeep (for towing it behind an RV) so I decided to figure out a way to make it work on the DSM.

The space between the two mounting points on the tow bar is 2' and the space between my frame rails on the DSM is 3'. I decided to make a bar out of square tubing to run from frame rail and then mount the tow bar to that. Also to keep from having to take the bumper off every time I decided to make extensions from the bar out through the front bumper.

I started working on it today. Everything is fab'd and welded up but I'm also going to bolt everything together just to be extra safe. I was planning on building this out of 2" square tubing but I could only find 1" square locally. So far it seems pretty solid and once it's reinforced with the heavy duty "L" brackets I'm going to make out of angle steel and bolted up I think it will work just fine.

photo 1.JPG

Test fitting the bar

photo 2.JPG

Positioning the nut for welding

photo 3.JPG

All welded up

photo 4.JPG

The work in progress

photo 5.JPG

What I've got so far, all welded up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Very clean car man, nice portwork as well..Not digging the gray, but thats just my opinion. nice times for a lil 14b!!! Def a 12 sec car with a good 60ft.....o and nice evo
 
Im curious to see how you make out with the tow bar. I used one a few times and with no tongue weight it shoved me side ways sometimes when trying to stop or slow down to make a turn. Also do you plan on using safety chains and mounting the street tires back on for transport?
 
Very clean car man, nice portwork as well..Not digging the gray, but thats just my opinion. nice times for a lil 14b!!! Def a 12 sec car with a good 60ft.....o and nice evo
Thanks man! I went with the grey just to have something different. I have something in the works for the next idea. :thumb:

Thanks for the Evo love too! Here are a few more action shots for you. I ended up getting first place in the points series for the Rookies class and got an award for Most Improved Driver for the year through the Pan Am Region of the SCCA.

196362d1350788318-official-tarmac-black-picture-thread-308001_10151273839580586_2129948090_n.jpg

196363d1350788333-official-tarmac-black-picture-thread-559590_10151273839445586_1293240369_n.jpg


Im curious to see how you make out with the tow bar. I used one a few times and with no tongue weight it shoved me side ways sometimes when trying to stop or slow down to make a turn. Also do you plan on using safety chains and mounting the street tires back on for transport?
My car is pretty light so I think it will be fine. I will be using chains and street tires for sure.
 
Last edited:
wow nice build man, and congrats on the pregnancy.:hellyeah:

Thanks so much man!!

I got back to work on my DSM's weight loss program. I completely gutted the passenger side door and fitted it with a homemade Lexan window and a simple manual door lock. All I'm missing is some aluminum sheet metal to cover the gapping hole, a pull cord to open the door, and some fresh white paint. Now I'm starting on the driver's side door. Altogether I dropped 40 lbs just from the passenger's side door. Fun fact, my passenger side door was originally champagne and my driver's side door was originally red.

196984_10151391320000586_1055079732_n.jpg


photo 1.JPG


photo 2.JPG


photo 3.JPG

This picture shows the rivets holding the Lexan in and the manual door lock.

photo 4.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can I get a few more pics of the rear seat back removed sheet metal please?

Also Can I get the numbers for what that removed for weight please?

The rear seat sheet metal pictures are from Joe B's Project Goodwill. I have not tackled this project yet.

Once the driver's side door is finished I will have dropped 315 lbs since starting this round of weight loss which already surpasses my original goal and should put my car right around 2200 lbs. I'm now going to go ahead and make a new goal of 2,000 lbs since I still have full exhaust, stock gas tank, stock seats, and automatic seat belts... which are all on the chopping block Those few things there should easily drop me the last 200 lbs without spending too much cash.

As an Eclipse GS turbo, my car would have originally weighed ~2800 lbs, so when I reach my goal of 2000 pounds I will have dropped 800 lbs total which is almost 30% of the original cars weight!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ya I know the pics of the red car wasnt yours..Thats in the extreme weightloss thread.

But when you removed the spot welds and all that.? I'm doing most of that rear sheet metal..The damm tank is what I want to get rid of, soI can get rid of the annoying hump.LOL

I may keep that upper connected for a ST bar.
I think im moving my battery to the trunk right over the rear diff or at least an axle..
 
Ya I know the pics of the red car wasnt yours..Thats in the extreme weightloss thread.

But when you removed the spot welds and all that.? I'm doing most of that rear sheet metal..The damm tank is what I want to get rid of, soI can get rid of the annoying hump.LOL

I may keep that upper connected for a ST bar.
I think im moving my battery to the trunk right over the rear diff or at least an axle..

Ah, I see what you are saying. Here are a few pics of the rear with that piece removed. I used a spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight as you can see in the picture. Mine is a FWD so no hump for the spare tire, however I am planning on removing that area on mine too. Also, soon the entire interior will be repainted white.

photo 1.JPG


photo 2.JPG


photo 3.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ah, I see what you are saying. Here are a few pics of the rear with that piece removed. I used a spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight as you can see in the picture. Mine is a FWD so no hump for the spare tire, however I am planning on removing that area on mine too. Also, soon the entire interior will be repainted white.

View attachment 150883

View attachment 150884

View attachment 150885

And that looks awsome..The white paint I assume so you can keep an eye on flex?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top