9!'clipseDOHC's 1g DSM build

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

INDEX
Part 1: THE SWAP
Post 1: Introductions and Preparations - 3.4.2010
Post 2: Arrival and Disassembly - 3.15.2010
Post 3: Cleaning and Painting - 3.22.2010
Post 4: Spun Bearings and New Internals - 3.23.2010
Post 5: The Swap, Part 1 - 4.28.2010
Post 6: The Swap, Part 2 - 5.1.2010
Post 7: Head Cleaning/Timming Belt/Reassembly - 5.2.2010
Post 8: The Swap, Part 3 - 5.5.2010

Part 2: STREET/DRAG/AUTOX
Post 9: Texas Mitsubishi Shootout - Personal Best of 14.3 @ 101</a> 6.21.2010
Post 10: 2010 Video Recap - 10.12.2010
Post 11: November 2010 - March 2011 (FMIC, Tires, Track, V3, 850's, SD, CAI, & Meet) - 3.31.2011
Post 12: April 2011 - July 2011 (Personal best ET, Autox, Road Course, Show, ELHS, Tial) - Personal Best 14.1 @ 113 - 7.22.11
Post 13: August 2011 - October 2011 (Autox, Drag, DSM Shootout, LSD, Clutch, Fusebox relocation) - 11.8.2011
Post 14: El Paso Motorplex 11/11/2011 - Personal Best of 13.1 @ 110 - 11.11.2011
Post 15: 2011 Video Recap - 12.19.2011
Post 16: 2012 Calendar, Three Speed FB page, Pan AM SCCA home page - 12.31.2011
Post 17: Winter Project Part 1: Welding, Grinding, Sanding, Bondoing, & Porting - 1.8.12
Post 18: Winter Project Part 2: Cams, Springs, Priming, Painting, and Reassembly - 1.28.12
Post 19: Winter Project Paart 3: Painting body parts, AeroCatch pins, Quick release bumper kit, Power steering pump, and a new 14b - 2.24.12
Post 20: Pan Am Region SCCA SOLO Championship #1 - 2.26.2012
Post 21: Pan Am Region SCCA SOLO Championship #2 and El Paso Motorplex, New PB 13.102 @ 111.22 - 3.11.12 & 3.16.12

Part 3: Track Only - Weight Loss

Post 22: 2005 EVO & Weight Loss, Part 1 (40 lbs) - 9.25.12
Post 23: Weight Loss, Part 2 (48 lbs) - 9.28.12
Post 24: Weight Loss, Part 3 (27 lbs) - 10.1.12
Post 25: Weight Loss, Part 4 (29 lbs - Odyssey Battery) - 10.19.12
Post 26: Weight Loss, Part 5 (95 lbs - Rims and tires) - 10.22.12
Post 27: Weight Loss, Part 6 (Interior)

Part 4: RallyX

Post 28: AZ Rally Group 2013 RallyX #2 - 04.20.2013
Post 29: AZ Rally Group 2013 RallyX #3 - 5.25.2013

OVERVIEW
Part 1: THE SWAP
This is the journal of my 4G63t 6 bolt swap into my 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.

My car: My Eclipse was my first car, I was 16 years old when I got it. I bought it on January 2, 2003 for $250 with a free tow to my house. The timing belt had snapped at 114,000 miles and destroyed the head. Also the front bumper and passenger side fender were smashed in. Other then that it was in great shape. My dad and I rebuilt the engine from the head up. It took us 4 months but when we finally got it started that Easter it was an awesome feeling! This car has been my daily driver ever since, for the last 7 years.

My engine: The engine is out of a 1991 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo FWD car. I acquired the engine, transmission, ECU, and wire harness out of the car when it arrived at a junkyard, where I worked at the time. I pulled everything out in 1 day. I had the engine rebuilt to factory standards and attempted a swap back in 2005. However I ran into problems with the engine, with money, and with it being my daily driver and ended up pulling it out and putting my GS engine back in. My turbo motor has been sitting on a stand in my parents garage for the last 5 years.

Part 2: STREET/DRAG/AUTOX
Continually building my now turbo 1g FWD DSM for Street, Drag, and Autox.

Autox: I race in the Pan Am Division of the SCCA. For the my rookie season in 2011 I raced in the ESP class and moved up to SMF in 2012. In April 2012 I purchased a 2005 Evolution VIII which took over the Street and AutoX (STU class) duties from the Eclipse.

Drag: I raced on the 14b on street tires until November 2012 and then I moved up to Hoosier Drag Radials.
2010: 14.3@101 San Antonio Raceway (14b, 11 psi, 91 gas, Riken Raptors 215/50/17, stock SMIC, open diff)
2011: 13.18@110 El Paso Motorplex (14b, 20 psi, E-85, Hoosier 225/50/16 Drag Radials, VRSF FMIC, Quaife LSD)
2012: 13.10@111 El Paso Motorplex (rebuilt 14b w/ 7cm housing, 20 psi, E-85, Hoosier DR's, FMIC, LSD, HKS 264's)

Part 3: Track Only - Weight Loss
After buying a 2005 Evolution VIII in April 2012 I decided to make my 1G a track only car with hopes of seeing how fast I can take the 14b. I would also like to race at the DSM shootout in the Stock Appearing Turbo class, which will require something a little larger then the 14b as Evo turbo's are included as "stock appearing". At the start of this endeavor my car's gross weight was 2,520 lbs and my best ET was 13.1 @ 111 MPH.

Part 4: RallyX
To be honest I kind of lost interest in having a dedicated drag racing car. I was having more fun Autoxing with the Evo and was preparing to start Rallyxing with the Evo too. Meanwhile the Eclipse was sitting collecting dust. One day I was washing both the Eclipse and Evo in the driveway and I had an epiphany. Why not rallyx the Eclipse? It has a lot more ground clearance, its already a bare platform (like clay waiting to be molded), and when I want to drag race I can still just throw on the slicks and go. It was decided, the Eclipse would become my rallyx horse.

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Introductions and Preparations
Originally posted March 4, 2010
About a year after my failed engine swap I got a new job and moved 2,000 miles away from my hometown. Priorities in my life changed and I forgot all about that turbo engine that was sitting on that stand back in my parent's garage. About a year ago I even put my car up for sale. Then something changed. I started fixing little problems and spending more and more time with my car. I got active on dsmtuners for the first time in years, and before I knew it I was hooked all over again. With my renewed interest I remembered that turbo engine in my parents garage. I'm in a position now where I am not dependent on my car to get back and forth to work and financially where I can afford to do the swap right.

My Dad is in the process of getting the engine secured on a pallet and loaded into his truck so it can be shipped out west to me. He has been making a lot of progress and it looks like it should be here hopefully within the next few weeks, maybe even sooner.

I have been formulating a plan and buying parts. When I first finish the swap I will still be running the factory 14b with a whole host of bolt-ons. Over the next year I plan to upgrade to an Evo 3 16g, FMIC, 680 injectors, and maybe a 3" MAF, all tuned with v3 lite. My car will still be my DD so I'm eventually looking for around 300-350 hp.

A few weeks ago I redid my engine wire harness. T removed several unneeded plugs and rerouted all of the coolant and o2 sensor wires so it will be a much cleaner install. This is the thread with everything I did to my harness: Removing part of the engine wire harness.

I have also discovered a local shop that has lots of experience with the 4G63t, Luna Performance. Once my engine arrives I will strip it down and drop the block off there to be checked out. When it was last installed I had lost compression in 1 cylinder. I don't think its anything real serious, probably a ring or it could just be the headgasket, but I'll let them check it out before I reinstall it.

I have acquired a number of parts for my build already. Some are already on the car, others are waiting for the swap. They are all listed in my profile. There are a few more things that I will be ordering this month including: Gates Racing timing belt, OEM tensioner, all OEM pulleys, BSEK, OEM water pump w/ new bolts, ARP turbo bolts, 3" Punishment Racing downpipe, and a few other misc odds and ends.

This might not seem like much compared to some of the other builds that guys are doing right now but for me, I can't wait. The plan is for it to be 100% streetable and reliable enough to be daily driven but also a force to be reckoned with. I used to enjoy drag racing so I'd also like to be able to put down some decent times in the quarter mile.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, well heres a mouthful! On to the eye candy!

My car when I first bought it, January 2, 2003.

Easter Sunday when we first got it running.

The 6 bolt 4G63t, pre rebuild, that I pulled out of the Laser RS.

My Dad and the engine, post rebuild, back in 2005.

The engine as it sits today, 3/4/2010, getting prepped to be shipped across the country.

More to come... Live life, pass it on.

It's prepped and loaded!
My engine is mounted to the pallet and loaded on my Dad's truck! Should be put on a trailer and shipped this week! I can't wait!

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Arrival and Disassembly
Originally posted March 15, 2010
My engine arrived today after a 2,000 mile trip across the country. Luckily it was still in one piece after the journey. There was some miscommunication with the shipper but everything was straightened out and I was able to bring it home. Once I got it to my house I got it up on the hoist and unwrapped. After that, I mounted it to the stand and lowered everything the ground. I pulled off the manifolds, mounts, turbo, throttle body, thermostat housing, fuel rail, and injectors. Basically I removed everything except the head and timing components. That will be for tomorrow. All in all not bad for about 2 hours of work, including unpacking and mounting it on the stand.

Here it is on the hoist, still attached to the pallet

Set up on the stand

Awaiting its new home

Some nasty corrosion on the throttle body. It's been sitting in a garage for the last 5 years but still I've never seen anything like this except on a battery. Has anyone seen this on a throttle body before?

The back of the engine after I tore it all apart

The front after disassembly

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Cleaning and Painting
Originally posted March 22, 2010
My engine (the block, head, and timing components) is at Luna Performance so they can find out what went wrong with it last time. I've mentioned it before but I lost all compression in 1 cylinder and it was blowing white smoke and making weird noises under throttle, like an electric growl. I know its been sitting for the last 5 years but when I tried to rotate the crank the other day it wouldn't turn. I hope is not too serious. I'm kinda nervous though.

On the way to the shop.

While my engine is at the shop I'm getting everything else cleaned up and ready to go. This includes: the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, thermostat housing, turbo, o2 housing, coolant pipe, throttle body, intercooler pipes, turbo, bov, fuel rail, heat shields, brackets, mounts, and etc. Everything is getting degreased, cleaned, and most painted.

Before painting.

When I had this engine in last time it was painted with a black and blue color scheme. This time I'm going with grey and polished, similar to my current n/t setup (which can be seen in my gallery). I've spent the last several days cleaning, degreasing, sanding, taping, and painting all my engine parts.

Prepping the intake manifold for painting.

The heat shields, wastegate actuator, coolant pipes, and some miscellaneous brackets are all painted in Rustolium black barbeque paint which is rated at 1,200 degrees.

The valve cover, intake and intercooler pipes, intake manifold, air filter housing, CAS cover, and BOV cap are all painted with Rustolium charcoal grey paint.

Ready to go.

The fuel rail, CAS body, BOV body, and spark plug cover are all polished. I'm also going to be getting a JMF polished heatshield sometime in the future.

Other parts like the exhaust manifold, o2 sensor housing, timing cover, motor mounts, SMIC, and throttle body were cleaned inside and out but won't be painted. The wire harness was rerouted, wrapped and is ready to go. I have a complete Mitsubishi engine gasket kit, Mitsubishi water pump, all Mitsubishi timing components, Gates Racing timing belt, and BSEK all going on too. I still need to order a new o2 sensor and idle stop switch.

I also have new APR head studs, ARP turbo and o2 housing bolts, SSStuds exhaust manifold stud kit, AEM wideband o2 sensor, Stainless oil feed line (still routed from the head), Hallman ES MBC, a fuel pump rewire kit, hard UICP, and a Dejon hard intake pipe all ready to be installed with this engine.

I can't wait to see it when it's all put together. I think its going to look great! Stay tuned!

CAS before and after
Cleaned it inside and out, painted the cap, and replaced the hardware. What do you think?

Turbo Assembly

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Spun Bearings and New Internals
Originally posted on March 23, 2010
So I dropped my engine off at Luna Performance yesterday to get diagnosed, and sure enough they found the problem. It had spun both balance shaft bearings, causing damage to the pistons, crankshaft journals, oil pump/front case, and lifters.

My shopping list just got a lot more expensive. I just added:
Wiseco Pistons (.20 over) (not sure 8.3:1 or 9:1 yet)
ACL Race main and rod bearings
APR main studs
3g lifters (sucks because even the old ones were 3g)

The thing that bums me out the most is the crankshaft though. I have a good one in my non-turbo 6 bolt, but I'm still driving it. If I pull it out then I'm out my car until I finish everything.

I have another spare 4G63 in Virginia but I can't remember if its a 6 or 7 bolt. My Dad's going to check tonight and let me know. If its a 6 bolt then I'll have that one shipped out here, problem solved. If not then I have to decide whether to buy another one or pull the engine out my car early. I also don't like option B because then I lose a fully functioning spare engine.

As far the oil pump/front case goes, no problem, I have a spare. Isn't it awesome when you have a spare part and you actually need it. That front case has been in a box in my garage for the last 5 years and I'm finally getting some use out of it. At least that feels good.

If anyone has an opinion on 8.3:1 or 9:1 Wisecos, Please let me know. I'll be searching the forums most of the night. Before I go, here are some pictures. They were taken with my cell so they aren't that great.

Completely disassembled at Luna Performance

One of the spun balance shaft bearings in the oil pan

Everything is here!
Mitsubishi 6 bolt crankshaft
Wiseco .20 over 8.3:1 forged pistons
ACL Race main and rod bearings
ARP main and head studs and rod bolts
Gates Racing timing belt
Mitsubishi BSEK
Mitsubishi tensioners and pulleys
Mitsubishi water pump
Mitsubishi engine gasket kit
ITM 3g lifters

One big (and expensive) step closer!!!

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

The Swap: Part 1
Orignially posted on April 28, 2010
Ok all the preparation time has paid off, its time for the swap!

The last picture of my beautiful non-turbo setup. Its been good to me but, I got a need... A need for speed. (Sorry, I had to throw that in here)

I spent most of yesterday and today getting my car ready. The only thing left holding the non-turbo engine in are three motor mounts and the two axles. Everything else has been removed or disconnected.

I removed the non-turbo ECU and wiring harness and installed my turbo ECU and rerouted turbo wire harness.

I also installed my AEM UEGO wideband o2 gauge.

I am 95% done with my fuel pump rewire (I had to make a auto parts store run and will finish it up tomorrow). I got the idea on the waterproofing from this article, FWD Pump Rewire, from plymouthlaser.com.

I modified the driver's side motor mount so I can mount my coil pack on it. I got the idea from this tech article: 1G coil relocation

One of my friends is dropping off an engine hoist later tonight.

My turbo engine is back from the machine shop. It should have the new rotating assembly installed by tonight and I'm hoping to pick it up tomorrow. I plan to spend most of tomorrow mounting the head to the block, installing all of the timing components, water pump, intake manifold assembly, exhaust manifold/turbo assembly, fuel rail/injectors, and thermostat. Everything that bolts on.

Then on Friday, if everything goes to plan, I am planning to pull the non-turbo engine out and drop the turbo one in.

Everything is falling in to place. There will be more to come in the next few days. Wish me luck!

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

The Swap, Part 2
Originally posted May 1, 2010
It's out!

First off, those axle nuts are a pain in the butt! However it wasn't anything a 4' pipe on a 1/2" drive breaker bar couldn't fix. :thumb:

I pulled out the axles, it got a little messy becasue I forgot to drain the transmission fluid :banghead:

Sucks because that was my BG syncroshift 2 fluid. Looks like I'll be trying Pennzoil Syncromesh this time around.

It came out without any other issues, smooth as butter.

I pulled my turbo transmission off my non-turbo engine and got it cleaned up pretty good.

My ACT 2100 clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel came off next. I cleaned them up and they are ready to go on the turbo engine now.

Cleaned up the engine bay as much as I cared to. It's just waiting on the turbo engine now.

I went by the shop yesterday and they had the balance shafts eliminated, the ACL race bearing and 6 bolt crankshaft installed in the block with the ARP studs. The Wiseco pistons were mounted on the 6 bolt rods but weren't in the block yet. I'm hoping to be able to pick it up in the next few hours. Then I'll clean out the head, put it all together, and drop it in. Waiting is the hard part :cool:

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Head Cleaning/Timing Belt/Reassembly
Originally posted May 2, 2010
I've been busy the past 2 days because I got my engine back from the shop. The block had been machined and built (Wiseco pistons, 6 bolt rods, BSEK) but the head hadn't been touched and still needed to be cleaned out before I could reassemble everything.

I removed the camshaft bearing caps, camshafts, rocker arms, and lifters. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner and cleaned out the entire head and all of the oil passages. I also cleaned all the carbon build up on and around the valves and the deck. I reassembled the "guts" and torqued everything down to specs.

Once the head was finished and both deck surfaces were cleaned, I installed the APR head studs, the OEM head gasket, and mounted the head on the block.

I set the timing with my Gates Racing timing belt and all new Mitsubishi timing components. Man it's a lot easier without the balance shafts!

Once the timing was set I reassembling the rest of the components. I've done everything I can do with the engine on the stand. All that is left is to install the Fidanza flywheel, ACT clutch, and transmission and drop it in my empty engine bay.

One little thing I'm excited about is where I mounted my fuel injector resistor pack. I mounted the it on the intake manifold support bracket. I'm trying to keep the engine bay clutter down by minimizing the amount of stuff off the firewall. This should help. :thumb:

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

The Swap, Part 3
Originally posted May 5, 2010
It's alive!

Day 1:
At the end of my last blog, the engine was completely assembled on the stand. I got it off the stand, attached the Fidanza Flywheel, the ACT 2100 clutch, and the transmission.

I stopped taking pictures at this point but the engine went in without much difficulty. I sent the rest day hooking everything back up. Everything went surprisingly smooth. Once everything was reconnected I added the fluids and called it a day. I wanted to check everything again the next day once I was fresh again before starting it.

Day 2:
I installed the 3" downpipe, AEM wideband, and a few misc things. Time for the moment of truth.

[video=Startup, Take 1]67[/video]
Startup, take 1. It started up in the first crank. It ideled high at first, then started reving from about 600 rpms to 2,000 rpms. AFR was off the chart lean, switching from 17.9 to ---. CEL was on. Oil pressure good. I let it run for a while and then while I was checking things out under the hood I noticed the fuel was pouring out from the fuel inlet on the fuel rail. I shut it off right away.

Turns out it was a torn o-ring. Also the vent line on the intake pipe was open so I routed it into the catch can. This would explain the erratic idle.

Startup, take 2. Once again, started up on the first try. Idled high again, searching from 1500 - 2000. AFR was ---, off the chart lean. CEL on. Bad air leak at the throttle body. Shut it off to fix.

The throttle body gasket was upside down. Once again, a quick fix.

Startup, take 3. Idle 2000 rpms, no longer searching. AFR was high 16s-17s. Oil pressure was around 60-70 psi. Fule pressure 40 psi with the line attached. Vacuum was about 12. CEL was still on. Lots of chatter from the engine had me concerned so I shut it off again.

That evening I bleed the clutch but I didn't mess with the engine anymore.

Day 3:
I did a compression check, the results from cylinders 1-4 were: 150, 150, 150, 145. I started it up again and the chatter was gone. I let it warm up and then setting everything. I got the idle set to 750. I got the fuel pressure set to 37 with the hose off, 30 with it on. Checked the timing but it was already dead on at 5 BTDC. With everything set and it warm the oil pressure was around 30 psi at idle. AFR was still 18 to --- lean at idle.

With everything looking and sounding great I decided to slow roll it around the neighborhood a few times. I was only running a downpipe and non hood so I didn't want to take it out on the roads. Everything went super! I kept it around 2,000 rpms at most, only got 3 lbs of boost but it was running! Everything seemed to perfect. After a few loops around the block I smelled something burning so I returned to my house. I inspected everything but was unable to find the source. Everything smelled fine the engine bay.

My 3" Punishment Racing cat-back system and 3" test pipe were ordered a few days ago and as soon as I get them on I will proceed with the break in process. Until then I will wait but I am super happy with the progress so far. :thumb:

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

Texas Mitsubishi Shootout
Originally Posted June 21, 2010
After finishing my engine swap, my goal was to have my car ready to race by the Texas Mitsubishi Shootout at the San Antonio Raceway. This gave me about 45 days from the time I first started the new engine. I had to break my block in (1,000 miles) and iron out all the wrinkles (so to speak) so that I could make some reliable passes at the shootout.

The break in went well, I got all my miles in with 2 weeks to spare. However I had been have a problem with boost leaks and a weird noise like a siren which I suspected to be my turbo (I was correct). Boost leak tests reviled that I was leaking from my lower injector seals, fuel pressure vacuum line, and what seamed to be the 14b itself. I replaced all of my fuel injector seal with FIC's complete injector seal kit and tightened up my vac lines.

My turbo wasn't quite so easy. It was leaking boost, making strange noises, and had some in and out shaft play. With just 14 days until the shootout I ordered another 14b from the classifieds. I received it and installed it with just 6 days to spare. This didn't leave me any time to practice my launch with a front wheel drive turbo car, it would have to wait for the track.

Saturday arrived and I loaded my car on a trailer (My first time on the track with a new engine, I figured a trailer was good insurance) and drove 9 hours to San Antonio.

Sunday morning, track day! My first pass I launched at 4,000 RPM's and spun like a hamster on a wheel. My first run was a 17.6 at 95 MPH. However after 10 passes I had gotten down to a best ET of 14.3 @ 101 MPH. I was running 14 psi on a 14b with stock injectors, stock SMIC, full interior, and street tires. Here are all of my passes in chronological order:

60' ET MPH
2.8 17.6 95.5 (Launch at 4k, spun all through 1st)
2.7 14.7 101.9 (no launch, best MPH)
2.8 15.0 100.6 (launch at 3k)
2.5 14.6 100.6 (started launching at 3.5k)
2.3 14.4 99.5 (best 60')
2.5 14.7 98.8
2.6 14.9 89.2 (on the brakes, I had 0 boost on gauge, blew my gauge line off)
2.6 14.7 101.5
2.4 14.3 101.1 (best ET)
2.5 14.6 99.7

Spinning tires off the line on my first pass

My goal was to get into the 13's. I know my car can do it, hopefully next time. I'll shed some weight and work on my 60' and I'm sure I can knock off that .33 of a second and get into the 13's. Even though I didn't get it in San Antonio, I was still happy with my car. It performed great considering this was it's first day on the track with this engine.

Stay tuned!!!

[video=P6200887.AVI]73[/video]
14.4 @ 99.5 MPH run.

The following pictures were taken by DsmNikki, the owner of texas-dsm.com and are used with permission.

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

2010 Video Recap
Originally Posted October 12, 2010
I put together a little video last night of my DSM over the past year. I know it's only October but my wedding is coming up in January so blowing money on my car is being put on hold until 2011. 2010 has been a great year for my DSM: I finally built my 4G63t and did the turbo swap, I raced at the first annual Texas Mitsubishi Shootout at San Antonio Raceway, and I made it out to the local track, El Paso MotorPlex.

[video=9!'clipseDOHC 2010]122[/video]

My 1g DSM in 2010:
Non-turbo to Turbo swap
2010 El Paso DSM Spring Cookout and Cruise
1st Annual Texas Mitsubishi Shootout at San Antonio Raceway
Racing at El Paso Motorplex

Stock turbo, stock fuel injectors, stock intercooler, stock ECU, full interior, street tires, FWD, 14 pounds of boost.

Coming soon: Punishment Racing FMIC, DSMlink V3lite, Fuel Injector Clinic 850 cc fuel injectors, Buschur Racing TD05/6 hybrid 20g, Tial external wastegate.

TX Mitsubishi Shootout pictures taken by Nikki Deleon from texas-dsm.com.

Video recording thanks to my wonderful fiancee Becky!

Song is You're Going Down by Sick Puppies.

Also since my last update I have replaced the front control arm and rear track arm bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushings, replaced the lower ball joints, low mounted my battery, removed my cruise control, installed my Buschur Racing polished heatshield, replaced the throttle body shaft seals, and gotten rid of a few more boost leaks.

The car is running great! It idles perfectly, boosts quickly, and gets crazy good gas mileage (high 30's-close to 40 mpg).

Here are some pictures really quick:

Old ball joints and bushings.

New control arm bushings.

Low mounted battery, Buschur Racing polished heatshield, and non-cruise throttle cable.

That's all for now. Look for more in early 2011! :thumb:

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 4, 2011

November 2010 - March 2011 (FMIC, Tires, Track, V3, 850's, SD, CAI, & Meet)
Originally posted March 31, 2011
Where to begin! My last blog was my end of the year video, but I made it in October thinking that I was done for the year. Well it turns out that I couldn't even make it 2 months without doing more! As of the last blog, this is where I stood:

Stock turbo, stock fuel injectors, stock intercooler, stock ECU, full interior, street tires, FWD, 14 pounds of boost.

Coming soon: Punishment Racing FMIC, DSMlink V3lite, Fuel Injector Clinic 850 cc fuel injectors, Buschur Racing TD05/6 hybrid 20g, Tial external wastegate.

November 2010
Well at the end of 2010 VR Speed Factory went and had a sale on the FMIC kit that I just couldn't pass up. I jumped on it and tossed my SMIC to a corner in the garage. Here is a tech article on my install: 1g VRSF FMIC Install

After installing the FMIC I started getting a lot of boost creep so I found a used Megan Racing stainless recirculated o2 housing and that took care of my issues for the time being.

December 2010
I had been considering new tires for a while as I already have traction issues by virtue of FWD. The problem that I was running into was my 17 x 6.5 rims. The widest tire I would be able to use would be a 225 (up from the 215's I had). I would have (and still would) loved to get a set of EVO 8 Enkeis which are 17 x 8 and then a 235 or even 245 wide tire. However my priory was to keep spending money under the hood so I just got two 225/45ZR17 BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDW 2's for the front. (I absolutely love the tread design on these tires!)

January 2011
After the tires I took a short break from the car to get married and honeymoon in Hawaii! But I came back strong. I identified and fixed several more boost leaks including the compressor cover o-ring, BOV, my upper intercooler pipe, and a few vacuum lines and couplers.

February 2011
I was promoted to DSMtuenrs Wiseman Status!

About this time a local DSM buddy of mine lost his car due to a catastrophic clutch/flywheel failure. This scared me so I ordered and installed a Three Speed Scatter Shield. For more info check out this thread: Scatter Shield Install.html

In February I made it out to the local drag strip. I hit a new best MPH (102 MPH) but my et suffered (14.7) due to crappy 60' times (best of 2.4). My boost gauge claimed 14 psi but I have since found (based on my MAP sensor reading) that it reads about 3 psi high so it was really more like 11 psi. However it was a lot of fun and I was joined by two other white 1gs and got to beat up on a Mustang GT!

[video='91 FWD DSM vs. Mustang GT]153[/video]

[video=1g FWD DSM 14b @ 15 psi 1/4 mile (In Car)]155[/video]

[video=1991 DSM FWD vs. AWD]156[/video]

Next came the biggest performance improvement to my car since the turbo engine swap... ECMlink v3 Lite and Fuel Injector Clinic 850cc fuel injectors!!!

At first I was having some problems with my check engine lights and crazy sensor reading, you can read more here: Error Code 0042. I sent the ECU back to get it checked out again and everything checked out fine so they shipped it back along with their speed density bundle.

March 2011
While I waited to get my ECU back from ECMtuning I also made a custom enclosed cold air intake to compliment my SD setup. I had been wanting to do this for a while but couldn't with my 1g MAF. For more info check out this thread: Is Flow the Same for an Air Filter as for an Intercooler.html

Back to my electrical issue.. With the ECU in tip top shape, that left my harness or the connection from the harness to the ECU. I pulled my harness and went through it for several days and couldn't find anything wrong. I did however remove my o2 sensor wiring (decided to run my wideband with narrowband simulation) and my cruise control plug and associated wiring all the way back to the ECU. And I installed my IAT and MAP sensors

It turned out that my problem was the wire ends that connect to the actual ECU pins were loose. I tightened them up using a needle per the FSM and everything started working fine again and just in time to make it to the 2011 El Paso March of the DSMs, (actually I got it fixed the morning of the event)!

The 2011 El Paso March of the DSM's was a great success! We had over 20 DSM's and a few EVOs, a sweet 3000GT, and even a few Hondas eyeballing from a distance

Over the past month I've been slowing but surely working on getting all of my logged parameters in line and working on my WOT tuning, LOTS and LOTS of thanks to Corey (Gofer). It's been one of those "one step forwards, two steps back" kinda things but I think we are finally getting everything straightened out and will be able to make some forward progress soon.

Today I actually drained and lowered the gas tank and replaced the Walbro fuel pump "sock". It's been over 5 years since I installed my pump and I want to make sure I'm getting plenty of fuel to feed my speed. (I've reached my picture limit so pics will be below in the comments section) I also ordered a replacement diaphragm for my Buschur/SX AFPR. For the next blog expect to see some great progress on my SD tune and new personal best 1/4 mile time!

BoostedBraydon · Nov 4, 2011

this is crazy u guys are so awsome

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 5, 2011

April-July 2011 (Personal best ET, Autox, Road Course, Show, ELHS, Tial)
Originally posted 7/22/2011
In my last blog entry I added a FMIC, 850 injectors, V3 lite, and switched to speed density. I had a best ET of 14.3 @ 101 in San Antonio (before all those mods) and a best ET at my local track in El Paso of 14.7 @ 102 (after all those mods).

My last blog ended with this sentence: For the next blog expect to see some great progress on my SD tune and new personal best 1/4 mile time! Both happened!

April 2010
Trying ot track down a problem I've been having with my fuel system loosing pressure and having to crank for several seconds befor starting I replaced the diaphram in my Bushur/SX AFPR. Unfortunitly this failed to fix my issue. Here is a tech article that I wrote on the AFPR diaphragm install: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/399037-replacing-diaphragm-your-afpr.html

I had been dreading the month of April for some time because April is when my state inspection was due. Last April I got inspected before I did my turbo swap so everything was mostly stock and I passed without issue. This year there were lots of changes and I was curious as to how my car would do. I now have a full 3" exhaust with a test pipe so I decided to modify my old 2.5" Magnaflow High-flow cat to work with my new 3" system. I bought two 3" flanges, two 3" - 2.5" reducers, and found a friend with a welder. For the actual inspection I was failing the sniff test at idle at first until I made some changes to my base idle and managed to squeeze by! 'til next year...

Also in April I decided to buy my own welder. I had never welded before but its something that I've been wanting to learn and it seemed like as good a time as ever to just do it. I bought a very inexpensive 90amp mig welder from Harbor Freight and over the next several months practiced and was able to complete several projects. I just wish I would weld aluminum!

May 2010
I went to the track on May 6th and it was very disappointing. There was no track prep and I was spinning like crazy, even at partial throttle which is where I stayed until third gear. This was my first time with the injectors and v3 so I logged every pass. I kept getting knock when the boost hit (24 psi) in 3rd and 4th so I lowered the timing after each pass and even by the end of the night I was still getting knock in 4th gear. My best time of the night was 14.7 @ 104 MPH. I' was running 91 octane but after that night I decided to switch to E85. As luck would have it they had just built the only E85 station in El Paso about a minute from my house. It was meant to be.

Also I finally got around to swapping to the AWD axle and intermediate shaft on my FWD. Here is a tech article I wrote on the install: Equal Length Half Shafts Mod (AWD axle in a FWD) This mod is supposed to reduce torque steer and wheel hop while improving handling and traction, especially during cornering.

On May 13th I filled up with my first tank of E85 for $3.41 a gallon.

On May 19th I was driving down the road my car started idling over 2,000 RPMs and surging sporadically. I did a boost leak test right away and immediately found that my PCV line (which was brand new silicone) had ripped in half. I replaced it with a reinforced fuel line, problem solved.

May 20th I replaced my old (about 6-7 years old) worn front brake pads with a new set of Hawk HPS pads! After that I was poking around under the hood while it was idling and I found a fuel leak (not good). It was coming from the 6 -AN feed line where the stainless steal braided hose went into the fitting. I threw the stainless line in the trash and bought a 3/8" rubber fuel line from Auto Zone and used that with the AN fittings. It worked like a charm! I'll never use stainless braided lines again.

I got some closed loop data and made some changes to my timing and VE table and tonight I lowered my boost and did a WOT pull. I got my boost down to 20 psi, adjusted my AFR to 12.0 at WOT, and increased my timing table (a lot!!!) to work with the E85 and in preparation for the drag strip on the 22nd.

By the end of May the price of E85 had dropped from $3.41 to $3.11 (91 octane was $3.87 from the same station, $.76 more per gallon!).

I went to the track May 22 nd and I ran a new personal best of 14.1 @113 which is .2 and 12 MPH faster then my previous best pass. Once again there was no track prep and it's killing me. I'm on E85 now though which is as awesome as they say. Now if I can go on a day with some track prep so I can get my ET down some more I'll be good to go. Here is my timeslip info:

Pass - 60' - 1/8 ET - MPH - 1/4 ET - MPH - Time - Notes (changes listed were made prior to pass)
1 - ????? - 9.507 - 90.10 - 14.155 - 113.52 - 6:34 - No slip 1st pass, this was 2nd, HL, CEL cooltemp 229*
2 - 2.551 - 9.666 - 89.57 - 14.330 - 113.06 - 6.51 - I raised the VE table a little before this one.
3 - 2.468 - 9.596 - 89.78 - 14.256 - 112.95 - 6:56 - HL
4 - 2.516 - 9.721 - 89.14 - 14.362 - 113.12 - 7:34 -
5 - 2.621 - 9.940 - 89.49 - 14.573 - 113.63 - 7:40 - CEL 3.9* of knock, spinning 1st & too much timing, HL
6 - 2.580 - 9.688 - 89.32 - 14.350 - 113.35 - 8:34 -

All of these passes were on E85, 20 psi of boost (still 14b with 6cm hotside), 24 psi tire pressure, burnout on passes 3-5, timing was 12-19* advanced, HL = hot lap

June 2011
In June the weather in El Paso was getting super hot and so were my coolant temps. I was hitting over 230* at the drag strip, on the highway, and at low speed/idle conditions. To resolve that I built a radiator ducting, replaced the thermostat, cap, went to 75% water 25% coolant with a bottle of water wetter, swapped from a PR/CX slim fan back to the main stock fan, and bled the system really, really well. After doing all of that my highway temps have been averaging about 180*-190* and coasting down a mountain I hit 174*. My idle temps have been around 206* which is when my fans turn on. I tried to get an adjustable fan controller to work properly so I can lower that a few more degrees but I had problems with a faulty product and poor customer service from the manufacturer so I returned it an am leaving the fans setup to the factory thermo switch.

In June I had several racing events and I wanted a lager fire extinguisher just in case. I bought a 2.5 lb fire extinguisher and mounted it just behind the passenger seat for easy access.

On June 11th I was in my first car show. I took 2nd place in my class (1986 and newer) out of 2. So yeah, last.

On June 12th I competed in my first SCCA Autocross event. I took 4th in my class (rookie driver) out of 4. So yeah, last again.

I bought a Tial 50mm BOV back in May and I just got around to having the flange welded to my UICP and getting it installed. It sounds way different then my crushed 1g BOV. It sounds more like a bark then a woosh to me. It's going to take a little while to get used to. Here is a picture of how my engine bay sits as the end of July, 2011.

In my next blog look for a Quaife LSD to assist with my FWD traction problems and a 13 second time slip!

TheDonDSMAk · Nov 5, 2011

This is cool how you keep up with your project car for all those yrs & keep building it and makin it better.

dsmtwins2g · Nov 5, 2011

Awsome progress looking forward to more posts.

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 7, 2011

August 2011-October 2011 (Autox, Drag, DSM Shootout, LSD, Clutch, Fusebox relocation)

This brings me up to date and will be my last update in the old blog format. I will be keeping this thread up to date on my current build status from now on. :thumb:

August 2011

On August 7th I ran at my second SCCA SOLO event. I had some traction problems there too but in the rear. I have BFG G-Force TA tires in the front with 300 treadwear and Riken Raptors in the rear with 520 treadwear so I get really squirrelly going around the turns. I'm going to get two more G-Force TA's to complete the set which should help. Here is a video from yesterday.

Nathan at the Pan Am SCCA SOLO Championship #11 - YouTube

I went to the the 19th annual Buschur Racing DSM/EVO Shootout in Norwalk, Ohio August 20th and 21st. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take my DSM with me. This was my third shootout and I'd have to say the best. I compiled some videos I took into a 12 minute youtube video featuring 40 passes including the return of John Shepherd's Talon as it made its first Shootout pass in 6 years. 2011 DSM/EVO Shootout: 40 races in 12 minutes - YouTube

319627_10150347490635586_508080585_10209396_6362113_n.jpg

Also I just ordered a Quaife LSD, speedo ring gear, differential bearings, and spacer shim kit. Once I get it installed I'll be ready to go back to the drag strip and try launching with two wheels!

I pulled, cleaned, and painted the transmission and it turned out great! I also picked up two quarts of Redline MT-90 to fill her back up with once I get the LSD in and trans back in the car.

September 2011

I finished the Quaife install and got my transmission back together and installed back in the bay. I also got 2 more BFG G-Force T/A KDWs for the rear so now I have a full set all the way around.

I did an autox even on September 11th and for the first time I didn't spin out at all. My car felt rock solid the whole day. I ended up just 3 seconds behind my buddies 2g TSi AWD which took first place in the rookie category. Last event my best time was 9 seconds behind him so I'm catching up!

I went to the drag strip on the September 16th to see how I could do with the LSD. It wasn't quite what I had expected. My first pass was a 2.6 60'. With the open diff I would average 2.4-2.6 with 2.4 being my best ever. I ran a few more passes and got down to 2.4 but I was spinng and wheel hopping (I didn't wheel hop with the open diff). I lowered my launch to 3,500, lowered my tire pressure to 28 psi, feathered the throttle and managed to squeeze out a 2.3 60'. My last pass I tried to preload the drivetrain and ended up red lighting and didn't get a slip to see if it helped or not. Also I tried the NLTS on my 3rd to 4th shift and loved it! It felt much faster! All in all I was a little dissapointed but I know I still need to work on it and get used to it and I will be able to get my 60' times down some more. I'm trying to iron a few things out and then I'll be going back again.

Time for another update. A lot has changed in just a week. I went to the track on Friday and made two passes. The first one was a 14.3 @ 111 which wasn't bad for my first pass, I usually get faster as the night goes on. My second pass was a 16.x @ 70 something MPH. ??? My car was going straight to the rev limiter in every gear, serious clutch slippage.

Fast forward 4 days. I bought a slightly used (2 weeks, ~400 miles) South Bend dual friction clutch and "SS" pressure plate from teame85 and a brand new ACT "Streetlite" Flywheel along with the good old OEM clutch fork, pivot ball, and throwout bearing. I pulled my transmission today (yes, again) (this time only took about 30 minutes start to finish) and this is what I found...

My 6 year old ACT 2100 lived a good life but it is TOAST!!!!

I should be back at the drag strip by next weekend or so and my next autox is on October 16th. I'm not letting this slow me down!

October 2011

I installed the new clutch on Friday and am now 100 miles into the break in. I am on schedule to be done and at the track on Friday. Here are some pics:

The new clutch:

And a cool picture I took out in the desert:

I went to the track on October 7th. Here are the results with the new clutch:
Pass - 60' - 1/8 ET - MPH - 1/4 ET - MPH - Time - Notes
1 - 2.667 - 10.262 - 82.11 - 14.949 - 106.08 - 8:22 - Tire pressure 26, boost 19
2 - 2.614 - 9.781 - 83.08 - 14.412 - 107.34 - 8:50 - Tire pressure 24, boost 20
3 - 2.421 - 9.587 - 82.53 - 14.224 - 108.12 - 9:16 - Tire pressure 22, boost 21
4 - 2.478 - 9.705 - 84.36 - 14.297 - 109.17 - 9:42 - Tire pressure 21, boost 21
5 - 2.576 - 9.942 - 82.96 - 14.576 - 108.01 - 10:01 - Tire pressure 21, boost 20

I have raised the timing a tad so that peak is 19* @ 5500. I have v3 FULL now so I will need to work my table some more. I won't be revving any higher but I can adjust for higher engine load.

I got the boost by gear installed but I still need to get it tuned. I started another project though... fuse box relocation!!!! I didn't start taking pictures until a few hours into it but here is how it went: (this is my first time EVER using fiberglass)

377764_10150434557480586_508080585_10794797_830226970_n.jpg

Some more big improvements are on the way for November. I ordered a set of 225/50/16 Hoosier Drag Radials which I will be using at the track in 2 weeks, on November 11th. Also just tonight I found a deal I couldn't pass up on a very slightly used MAP stainless steal recirculated o2 housing with a Tial 38mm MV-S wastegate. That will be going on over the winter along with a ported out 7cm housing to replace my stock unported 6cm housing. I'll also port my stock 2g manifold at the same time.

With these improvements 13's will be in the bag and I'll hopefully be gunning for 12's on the 14b next year!

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 7, 2011

BoostedBraydon said:
this is crazy u guys are so awsome

TheDonDSMAk said:
This is cool how you keep up with your project car for all those yrs & keep building it and makin it better.

dsmtwins2g said:
Awsome progress looking forward to more posts.

Thanks guys!

dsmrebel084 · Nov 8, 2011

Dude you are so encouraging me LOL

good work

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 10, 2011

dsmrebel084 said:
Dude you are so encouraging me good work

Thanks!

I got the Hoosier Drag Radials mounted today :thumb:

Hopefully I will be able to use them at the drag strip tomorrow night.

308642_10150447081090586_508080585_10863045_300942513_n.jpg

‎225/55/R16 Hoosier DOT Drag Radials on 16" OZ Racing F-1 10th Anniversary Mitsubishi Eclipse aluminum rims.

307dsm · Nov 12, 2011

This is so cool..... LOL

like ive told you to get some slicks a long time ago... LOL

am happy for you... now i need to get mine to compete against your.. hahaha

and its really cool how you are doing the relocation...hehehe... remember all the steps so you can
guide me .... LOL

9!'clipseDOHC · Nov 12, 2011

El Paso Motorplex 11/11/2011 - Personal Best of 13.1 @ 110 MPH

My first time on Drag Radials! When I first started I was using the boost by gear setup on V3 for the first time also and it was still set to wastegate pressure; I slowly turned up the boost over my 6 passes of the night. The first two passes the tires were set at 20 psi and then I dropped them down to 18 psi for the rest of the night. The first 3 passes I was spinning and not hooking up. After that the tires started rocking! :thumb:

Passes 4, 5, and 6 I had ZERO tire spin. Launch 4 I launched at 3500 and it was beautiful, I was like "Holy Crap!". Of course the 60' didn't print that pass. Launch 5 I launched at 3500 again but it bogged a little. Launch 6 I launched at 4000 and again had a slight bog. The tires got stickier after each pass and I know I can reach 12's as is. I'll be going back to the track next Friday to give it another try.

Pass - 60' - 1/8 ET - MPH - 1/4 ET - MPH - Time - Notes
1 - 2.404 - 9.536 - 76.87 - 14.398 - 102.13 - 7:59 - Tire pressure 20, boost 1st: 14.8 2nd: 17.2 3rd: 16.0 4th: 17.9
2 - 2.333 - 9.501 - 83.05 - 14.149 - 105.83 - 8:09 - Tire pressure 20, boost 1st: 13.9 2nd: 16.0 3rd: 17.6 4th: 17.9
3 - 2.537 - 9.533 - 83.67 - 14.157 - 106.63 - 8:24 - Tire pressure 18, boost 1st: 15.1 2nd: 15.5 3rd: 17.2 4th: 18.1
4 - ????? - 8.819 - ?????? - 13.352 - 109.27 - 8:51 - Tire pressure 18, boost 1st: 15.3 2nd: 15.3 3rd: 17.9 4th: 18.4
5 - 2.296 - 8.920 - 86.50 - 13.446 - 109.64 - 9:16 - Tire pressure 18, boost 1st: 15.5 2nd: 15.3 3rd: 18.8 4th: 19.8
6 - 2.208 - 8.697 - 87.54 - 13.181 - 110.61 - 9:33 - Tire pressure 18, boost 1st: 15.3 2nd: 15.5 3rd: 20.2 4th: 21.2

13.1 @ 110 - YouTube

masterjonny · Dec 17, 2011

what did u use to clean that gunk in the back trunk

9!'clipseDOHC · Dec 19, 2011

masterjonny said:
what did u use to clean that gunk in the back trunk

I used a paint scraper and a hammer to remove the big stuff and then adhesive remover spray to remove the gunk.

9!'clipseDOHC · Dec 19, 2011

2011 Video Recap

9!'clipseDOHC - 2011 - YouTube

This video is the accumulation of a whole year of filming and putting stuff together. I think it turned out pretty great but I'd love to hear what you guys think. Many thanks to my wonderful wife for filming!

I have a new project under way which I will be posting about shortly, but here is a little sneak peak:

HKS 264 cams,
Kiggly beehive springs,
Viton valve stem seals,
Ported MHI 7cm turbine housing,
Tial 38mm MVS wastegate,
MAP stainless o2 housing,
Magnus thermal IM gasket,
Gixrman quick release bumper kit,
Franks Custom fiberglass hood,
Aerocatch locking hood pins,
Ported 2g manifold,
Ported OFH relief valve,
Rebuilt power steering pump,
Shaved and polished IM,
Painted engine bay

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