Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

[Moonlight GSX]

Yeah it’s pretty beefy, compared to the Jay racing. I could tell the aluminum was starting to fatigue.

Started to stretch due to age huh, well that new one looks to have the bulk the other didnt.

 

[jamel16]

Finally got her tinted 20%, but as always she giving me other problems. So I noticed today, after a pull , she blowing some smoke. I’m assuming the oil seals is going out. I did get this turbo second hand from the YouTube Gears and Gasoline guys, so I know they pushed it hard. Oh well I will get it rebuilt and upgraded to a 3586 once I get back from the shootout. I’m still going to send it .

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Could always rock a BW 362 or 366, T4 size though.

 

[jamel16]

Could always rock a BW 362 or 366, T4 size though.

Yeah but honestly I probably go Xona 7864.

To be really, really honest, I most likely will just get the 3582 rebuilt. My plan is to leave this car as is and start a new build. I have my eye on a galant vr4. For that one , I would do a Xona 7864 with Artec manifold. The lack of transmission options is deterring me from picking it up.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Nothing wrong with the 3582, solid turbo and you already have it - cheaper to be rebuilt. The 362 and 366 are nicely paired with a stroker or 2.4.

 

[jamel16]

Update time: So it’s been awhile but it’s time to update this never ending thread. So the shootout was epic as usual and I’m grateful I was able to attend again this year. Troy Gundrum took some great photos of the car.

So my favorite part of the shootout is seeing and discussing everyone’s builds, but I noticed one thing. Mostly everyone I talked to recommended going to a standalone ecu preferably Haltech, so that’s what I’m doing. I have been doing my research and I’m looking at Haltech S2 or the Ecumaster Black. In the meantime I sold my Ecmlink and started building the engine side of the harness. I wanted to try my hand at a quick disconnect bulkhead connector. I went with the 47 pin connector in case I decide to expand.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes it was a great time meeting people even though mine wasn't even running. It was fun to see everyone and his or her build. Thanks for the help you have given me. Well get this thing together for next year. Stand alone it is for the two of us.

 

[jamel16]

Yes it was a great time meeting people even though mine wasn't even running. It was fun to see everyone and his or her build. Thanks for the help you have given me. Well get this thing together for next year. Stand alone it is for the two of us.

Yeah I’m working on reconfiguring my relay /fuse box. Once I complete that then I will start tinkering with your harness.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Thanks im patience get yours together and right I've got lot's to do.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

EMU Black (ECU Masters), hands down. I will explain more later when I am on my desktop.

 

[jamel16]

EMU Black (ECU Masters), hands down. I will explain more later when I am on my desktop.

Yeah please let me know more.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Although the list is "short" after looking at the capabilities of Haltech and the others that have been around as long as AEM, of which no longer exists, ECU Masters not only has other modules that can communicate to each other but also supports CAN keyboards, or just CAN in general (if you decide to go that route). One of the things that I have noticed is that it has a lot of functionality, including the use of DBW (drive-by-wire throttle) and a lot of similar components for a little less out of pocket. Of course, the difference between them and others is that if you don't want all the bells and whistles, you can go down a step or two if need be. In addition, their software is very user-friendly compared to AEM when they were around. If, for whatever reason, you wanted to switch over to a solid-state fuse box, you can and have it communicate to your ECU. Their stuff is top-notch and was the closest I could get to what I was intending to buy, which was the AEM-4. Since AEM fell apart and was sucked into Holly, I wanted something similar with a solid program and overall functionality, and with this, I found it.

By the way, nice loom work, very clean.

 

[jamel16]

Progress continues on the new wiring harness, with careful attention to proper pin placement. To improve firewall aesthetics, ABS templates are being fabricated for the bulkhead connector and alternator/starter power wires. These templates will be used to create final versions from carbon fiber. Power connections for the alternator and starter are being upgraded using Radlok connectors and terminals. A flanged 6-pin Deutsch connector has been integrated for the starter solenoid wire and alternator sense wires.

 

[jamel16]

A ported and polished 2G cylinder head, acquired at a favorable price during the shootout, has been prepared for installation. The head was fitted with 1mm oversized valves, decked, and pressure tested. Following reassembly, the head was installed using a new Fel-Pro head gasket. The planned configuration includes pairing the head with an existing EVO 2 manifold.

 

[92AWDHX40]

This should look really the wiring you do looks phenomenal. I really like the progress.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Radlok connectors are quite nice for their current handling capabilities and build functionalities (super easy quick disconnect).

 

[jamel16]

Radlok connectors are quite nice for their current handling capabilities and build functionalities (super easy quick disconnect).

Yeah I should have done this ages ago.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Are redloks something new or used in other platforms.

 

[jamel16]

Are redloks something new or used in other platforms.

More of the high end builds use them. It’s more cost effective to buy them in bulk.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Oh in bulk well im just looking to see how yours is set up . As you know I have a wiring mess this cleans it up. Keep at it .

 

[Moonlight GSX]

Are redloks something new or used in other platforms.

One of the places you will find them is on ECU Masters PMU 16/24 and AS Sport power distribution modules. Which follows suit to what he said in terms of high end builds since they change your fuse box to a solid state relay box.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Oh thanks

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Nice build and love reading through it so far.

 

[jamel16]

Finally finished of the cover plates. I used 3.0mm carbon fiber plate. I added a 1/4 push -to-connect bulkhead for the Haltech on board map sensor.

 

[jamel16]

I started gathering my sensors for Haltech. I sourced most of the sensors through Ballenger Motorsports since they’re local. I scooped up the pressure sensors from Low-Dollar motorsports and the speed sensor from Rockauto. The speed sensor comes from a 2006 Mitsubishi Montero and uses our TPS sensor connector.
Bosch knock sensor- you will have to use a M10x1.25 knock sensor stud as the one provided will not fit.
Bosch knock sensor
Gm Ait
GM ECT
Fuel press
Oil press
Speed sensor

CHF Engineering Miata Knock Sensor Stud - Stainless Steel

A custom product designed around the M10x1.25 stock NB Mazda Miata knock sensor thread pitch with fitment for a Bosch KS4-P knock sensor. Other fitments are likely possible but please double-check specifications to ensure this will work for your application. Cut from stainless steel (316SS) for...

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