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9!'clipseDOHC's 1g DSM build

I bought this car in 2003 and have been working on, driving, and racing it ever since.

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Windows guy all the way here. Got a friend with a newer laptop?

If you've ever turned on the fuel pump through ECMlink while looking at a fuel pressure gauge the pressure comes up in about 1 sec. So if it's taking longer than that it might not be pressure related. Mine was taking 5 plus seconds and I had to give it throttle.

Since it's only after it's been sitting for a while it could be the CrankingFuelAdj tab. I know you live in a hotter area than me but keep an eye on coolant temp when cranking and see if there is a value that above it's fine but below it's pissy. At least the log I could find has +20.3% fuel at 126 coolant temp so that's quite a significant amount.
Ok thank you, I will check out the coolant temp and CrankingFuelAdj tab. Unfortunately, the only windows laptops I have access to are work computers and I can't install applications on them.
 
Since installing the FIAV bypass plate and resetting the idle it has been idling like a dream! Cold starts, warm starts, after driving, it doesn't matter. Idle has been rock solid without any surging! I am very pleased!
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This morning I installed the JXB Performance driveshaft bearing carriers. It was a very easy install, jack up the car, lower the exhaust, unbolt the old carriers, cut the metal portion I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel), remove what's left of the rubber portion (I used a box cutter), and reinstall the new ones. I went with the "street" material which is softer. They also offer a "race" version which is stiffer.
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Check out the before and after video to see the vast improvement in play!
 
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I drove my Eclipse to work today (you've got to drive your Eclipse on Eclipse Day, right?), and the improvement from the JXB carriers is incredible! That clunking sound it gone, the shifting is much better, and the overall quality of the drive is vastly improved. I am very glad I went this route and highly recommend them!

Updated list:
  • Horn doesn't work. Luckily we didn't need it but I want to get it working. FIXED (corrected anti-theft system wiring)
  • Wipers work on intermittent and medium but completely stop as soon as I move the switch to high. FIXED (Loose wire)
  • Transmission comes out of gear on decel in both 3rd and 5th. Shifter adjusted, still an issue.
  • Check engine light came on for coolant temps a couple of times. Building ducting. Need to replace sensors.
  • Clunking during some shifts. FIXED (JXB driveshaft bearing carriers).
  • Still Idle surging on cold starts. FIXED (FIAV bypass plate)
  • Still taking a bunch of cranks before it starts to fire up due to not holding fuel pressure when off.
  • Very low idle sometimes (dropping to ~500), almost causing it to stall out. FIXED (BISS adjustment after FIAV Bypass).
  • At times it seemed to wander on the road at high speeds. I checked the suspension components, and everything seems tight. Need adjustable rear upper control arms to fix negative camber.
  • Windows fogging up in the rain and cold interior temps - Rounding up replacement dash ducting to reinstall heater box and fan.
 
I think the prime feature would completely solve my issue but can't get the newer ECMlink application to work on either of my laptops and my current version of the application doesn't have that feature. I have also changed the diaphragm in my AFPR to no avail, so I think it is just the lack of a check valve in the Walbro 255.

On my old laptop that I have always used ECMLink on (2006 MacBook running OS X 10.6.8 and ECMLink 3.22.172) I can connect to my car (running V3 Full). So that tells me my ECU, cable, etc. are all working.

I tried to update to the newest ECMLink application (ECMLink 3.46.226), but it requires OS X 10.11 or newer. This laptop is running the newest OS it can handle (10.6).

I pulled out my wife’s laptop (2009 MacBook running OS X 10.13.6 and was able to install ECMLink 3.46.226 and the drivers for OS X 10.4+ but it cannot connect to my car.

I was able to download the firmware request from my old laptop but can’t move forward until I can get the laptop with the newest application version to connect.

I haven't messed with hot start enrichment, but it starts great after it's been running. The only issue is after it's been sitting for hours and fuel pressure has dropped.

Also on the low idle issue, I checked with ECMLink when I got home yesterday and my ISC was at 90+. The car was idling so low it actually did shut off when I pulled in the driveway. I unscrewed the BISS a couple of turns until the ISC position moved to 60 and it seems much better now but I'll have to drive it a little more to confirm.
I've been reading that the latest version of the app is causing problems (ie. not running/running well). 3.36.73 is the sweet spot still. Are you able to get that one? I have the Windows installer if you need it.
 
For your long cranking/not holding fuel pressure issue, do you have this feature enabled in ECMlink to prime the pump with the key on? This may be a quick and easy fix.

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I was very excited when I found out about this feature, but I have not been able to get my laptop that can run it to connect to my ECU. I made a post on ECMTuning about the issue but no solution as of yet.
I think the prime feature would completely solve my issue but can't get the newer ECMlink application to work on either of my laptops and my current version of the application doesn't have that feature. I have also changed the diaphragm in my AFPR to no avail, so I think it is just the lack of a check valve in the Walbro 255.

On my old laptop that I have always used ECMLink on (2006 MacBook running OS X 10.6.8 and ECMLink 3.22.172) I can connect to my car (running V3 Full). So that tells me my ECU, cable, etc. are all working.

I tried to update to the newest ECMLink application (ECMLink 3.46.226), but it requires OS X 10.11 or newer. This laptop is running the newest OS it can handle (10.6).

I pulled out my wife’s laptop (2009 MacBook running OS X 10.13.6 and was able to install ECMLink 3.46.226 and the drivers for OS X 10.4+ but it cannot connect to my car.

I was able to download the firmware request from my old laptop but can’t move forward until I can get the laptop with the newest application version to connect.

I haven't messed with hot start enrichment, but it starts great after it's been running. The only issue is after it's been sitting for hours and fuel pressure has dropped.

Also on the low idle issue, I checked with ECMLink when I got home yesterday and my ISC was at 90+. The car was idling so low it actually did shut off when I pulled in the driveway. I unscrewed the BISS a couple of turns until the ISC position moved to 60 and it seems much better now but I'll have to drive it a little more to confirm.
I've been reading that the latest version of the app is causing problems (ie. not running/running well). 3.36.73 is the sweet spot still. Are you able to get that one? I have the Windows installer if you need it.
I'm a Mac user without access to a Windows laptop.
 
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Are you able to run Parallels to get a Windows environment in your laptop? I'm not sure if it's s built in feature or something extra but might be an option if you only have access to a Mac.
I do have an older version of windows on a partition in my 2006 MacBook with Boot Camp. I used to use that to tune my Evo with EvoScan and ECUflash. I will have to look into it to see if it can run the newest version of ECMlink with the fuel pump priming feature.
 
I was very excited when I found out about this feature, but I have not been able to get my laptop that can run it to connect to my ECU. I made a post on ECMTuning about the issue but no solution as of yet.


I'm a Mac user without access to a Windows laptop.
Windows tablets are handy, I'm told. But to get one that runs link is about as expensive as a small netbook-style thing (do they even call them that anymore?) and you gain a keyboard.
 
It's been a few weeks since the last update, but I've been busy behind the scenes collecting parts. I ordered all the missing ducts to reinstall the HVAC system and new cluster and HVAC surrounds since mine had warped from years sitting in the El Paso heat (a big thanks to DSM Partout!). I also ordered a new AEM boost gauge to match my wideband, as I am ditching the old Autometer Ultra-lite gauges I've had for decades.

I pulled the dash and reinstalled the HVAC components (except for AC). That was all quite simple.
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I wish I could have gotten a new dashboard too but too bulky to ship and none were available at any local junkyards. Since replacing it wasn't an option, I had to get creative.

The top was so dry it was cracking and had pulled away from the edge, leaving a big gap behind the surrounds.
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Step one was to get the front edge back where it needs to be. To accomplish this, I cut a line across, repositioned the edge, and glued it in place. Then I glued under the dashboard padding on both sides of the cut to hold it down.
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Finally, I did two coats of fiberglass to fill in the huge gash and all the cracks followed by lots of sanding. It's not perfect, but it should work. My plan is to wrap this portion of the dash in matte black vinyl to cover everything.
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Lastly I had noticed a sound under boost that sounded like an exhaust leak. I checked it out and found exhaust leaking from the v-band on my wastegate. I don’t know why because it was on there tight. I loosened it up, repositioned the clamp, and retightened it. Hopefully that helps.
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I ordered a small roll of VViVid matte black vinyl and a heat gun and got to work wrapping the top of the dash. This is my first time ever wrapping anything and I think it turned out pretty great. It's not perfect, but I'm not embarrassed by the cracks all over my dash anymore either. Now I'll have to see how this repair holds up over time.
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Since I'm still not running AC, I bought a small voltmeter to install in the AC switch location. I made a few mods to the plastic dial insert and it fit in great!
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This evening I'm hoping to hook up the HVAC cables, install the AEM gauges, and the remaining lower vents.

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Done! I got everything buttoned back up and took it another step and pulled the headliner back out to re-glue the fabric. Everything turned out great! I now have heat and defrost, just in time for summer (it’s already hitting 100* here), LOL!
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Heat and defrost, but no AC... In El Paso! :oops: 🥵
 
Done! I got everything buttoned back up and took it another step and pulled the headliner back out to re-glue the fabric. Everything turned out great! I now have heat and defrost, just in time for summer (it’s already hitting 100* here), LOL!
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Remind me again how you got that DSM logo on start up? Really jealous of that might want to copy..headliner looks great!
 
Heat and defrost, but no AC... In El Paso! :oops: 🥵


I am legitimately going to install A/C in mine here soon because I cannot drive the car in the current Florida heat + humidity. I could never make heat work and take A/C out. Lol.
 
Heat and defrost, but no AC... In El Paso! :oops: 🥵
I ditched AC on this car probably 20!years ago and honestly haven’t missed it. In the summers I ride my Harleys the most but the 1G gets good airflow with the windows down (much better than the Humvee). Now I wouldn’t take it for a long drive in the middle of the day when it’s 100*+ but for my short commute home from work and spring/fall road trips it’s great!
Remind me again how you got that DSM logo on start up? Really jealous of that might want to copy..headliner looks great!
It’s an Apple CarPlay compatible head unit from an Amazon company called PLZ. Once I installed it I sent them an email with the image and they provided an update with the custom startup screen.
I am legitimately going to install A/C in mine here soon because I cannot drive the car in the current Florida heat + humidity. I could never make heat work and take A/C out. Lol.
It’s hot here but no humidity and that honestly helps a lot. Dry heat > humidity. Heat on the other hand is important, especially defrost, in the winter. Even on our 1,800 mile trip leaving San Diego in March, it got down into the 30’s going over the mountains in a storm when it had been a nice spring day along the coast.
 
After repositioning the clamp on the wastegate I was stilling hearing what sounds like an exhaust leak. I pulled the wastegate off and used a ring of Permatex high heat sealant on each opening and reinstalled. I took it for a drive today and heard no change, so I'm going to have to keep investigating.
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This weekend I went took her out to a local show and shine put on by the El Paso Corvette Club.
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I ditched AC on this car probably 20!years ago and honestly haven’t missed it. In the summers I ride my Harleys the most but the 1G gets good airflow with the windows down (much better than the Humvee). Now I wouldn’t take it for a long drive in the middle of the day when it’s 100*+ but for my short commute home from work and spring/fall road trips it’s great!
I know, I know, I've grown pretty soft in my old age. The hot summers are starting to get to me... not enough to move (back) to an area where it snows in the winter, but enough for me to complain like a whiny old biotch.
 
I know, I know, I've grown pretty soft in my old age. The hot summers are starting to get to me... not enough to move (back) to an area where it snows in the winter, but enough for me to complain like a whiny old biotch.
Haha. Now that I'm thinking about it, none of my vehicles have functioning AC, only my wife's Sequoia. I guess I just like to feel the (hot) wind in my hair, LOL!
Is it me or does this area I circled below look like an exhaust leak? Looks like you can even see where it starts to splatter condensation mixed with soot? Hard to tell but I’m assuming you have the fire ring installed as well?

-Daniel

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It was pretty clearly leaking from the wastegate. You can see a little bit in that picture but also a lot more in this picture from before I messed with it. However, I am still hearing the same sound, which makes me think there is another leak.

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