TalonDave HX40 10.14; 4g63awdhonda HY35 11.14

[Bricktop]

I'm actually will be doing a 8.8 solid rear diff, in the near future! I want to be able to launch like a maniac without the worries of breaking a axle, or rear diff!
The price of DSS level 5 axles are insane ($1850) and then you still have the weak rear diff! So I would rather put that money torwards a solid rear diff, and be done with it!
I will absolutely never go to a auto, sorry not my thing!

I like the way you think. Thats exactly what I thought. Pm me when You get started on it. I'll do the same. That way we can give each other pointers.

Oh, the whole auto thing was brought up because I wanted people to know that the ratios are availible. Plus I'm runnin an Auto. With Lucas English doin what he does with his. And with everyone grabbing up the Autos. It's not a bad option. My 91 has a 3 bolt in it So, I'm skipping the 4 bolt and going for the 8.8.

 

[coppersmith]

I'm actually will be doing a 8.8 solid rear diff, in the near future! I want to be able to launch like a maniac without the worries of breaking a axle, or rear diff!
The price of DSS level 5 axles are insane ($1850) and then you still have the weak rear diff! So I would rather put that money torwards a solid rear diff, and be done with it!
I will absolutely never go to a auto, sorry not my thing!

hey bud where can I get some info about that solid rear diff?

 

[talondave]

hey bud where can I get some info about that solid rear diff?

The rear end will be out of a 2000 ford explorer, and its being talked about in my thread on ECMtuning, other then that I dont have much info on it myself!
I'm trying to figure this out for the near future, I will probably be doing the swap next winter, while I wont have the funds this winter cause of the new motor build, and roll cage this winter!
The new NHRA rules for a cage next year is, 5 point or beter for 11.99 not 11.49. So that kinda sucks for everyone running high 11s!

 

[turboboy4]

Well aint that a bi***, they are making it so no one will want to have a dual purpose street/strip car that is fast

 

[talondave]

Well aint that a bi***, they are making it so no one will want to have a dual purpose street/strip car that is fast

No doubt, its retarded, a 11.99 isn't even that fast, and have to have a 5point cage to run it! Hopefuly most tracks wont enforce it!

 

[turboboy4]

Well I sure hope so cause all of the work im doing to the car this winter is going to be pointless if my track enforces the 11.99 rule. It would be nice if they dont do it on test and tune nights but for liability purposes they will probably enforce it. They are starting to ruin weekend warrior racing for sure

TalonDave where did you read that 11.99 is the new requirement for a roll cage? Did you read that right out of the new rule book?

 

[Bricktop]

Well I sure hope so cause all of the work im doing to the car this winter is going to be pointless if my track enforces the 11.99 rule. It would be nice if they dont do it on test and tune nights but for liability purposes they will probably enforce it. They are starting to ruin weekend warrior racing for sure

TalonDave where did you read that 11.99 is the new requirement for a roll cage? Did you read that right out of the new rule book?

Nothing wrong with a cage. If anything it'll help with '60 fts. I have a theory that once a live axle goes into these cars, they are going to start twisting up. Just like the other Unibody cars i've owned( Mustangs-LS-1s). With the Independant rear I think these cars are less likely to flex. Which is why nobody makes subframe connectors for these cars.
A 6 point cage will tie the front and rear subframe together. This combined with a live axle will drop 60 ft times.

Oh, an afterthought. I might have to go look at the floorpan of my 1g and a buddies Foxbody. If I remember right the pans may be similar enough to use Fox mustang weld-in Subframe connectors. If so that would be another cheap worth while mod. It's been a few years but I think the most expensive Sub connectors are still less than $200.
6 point, Subframe connectors = one 60ftin SOB. This is my theory.

Sorry Dave and Gabe for cluttering your thread.

 

[dsm-onster]

^^^Actually I feel the exact same way concerning launching and a live axle rear.

But REALLY? 11.99??? That is rediculous. I gues I cant even drive a bone stock z06 at the track

 

[rhamlinii]

If you have a welded canter diff how do you get the front wheels to spin at the same speed as the rears? What gears ratio's are in the ford rears, that will match the fronts for our cars. I could do that on my race car, But I still want to drive that car on the street. I was getting my axels at tax time, but this could work out better.

 

[turboboy4]

Hey Dave didnt know if you saw the second part of my last post but, did you read the 11.99 rule out of the nhra rule book or where did you hear that. I looked all over and couldnt find it

 

[E116]

Hey Dave didnt know if you saw the second part of my last post but, did you read the 11.99 rule out of the nhra rule book or where did you hear that. I looked all over and couldnt find it

I looked around too, I didn't find it in the 2011 rule book amendments

 

[talondave]

One of my friends told me about the new rules, maybe I can get him to post a link for us!
Regarding the rear gear ratios, the M/T needs to have the 3.55 gearing, and you can get them from summit, some of the 8.8s come with them stock.
I think the 2000 ford explorer has it stock, and it also comes with disc brakes, same lug nut pattern, and are the same width...

 

[talondave]

I took this right off of Hotrod.com, under the tech section!




11.99

By the time a car is capable of running between 11.00 and 11.99 seconds in the quarter-mile, safety requirements are especially important. Up until this point, factory seatbelts are acceptable, but in the 11-second-and-quicker time zone you need a quality safety harness. The minimum requirement is a 3-inch-wide, five-point harness meeting SFI spec 16.1. The 1995 National Hot Rod Association Rulebook outlines the proper way to mount the shoulder harness and belts.


An NHRA-legal rollbar is also required in the category. Recent rule changes have reconfigured what NHRA classifies as a rollbar. The classic four-point bar is no longer acceptable. The new standard is mild-steel tubing of at least .120-inch wall thickness (most chassis companies, like Art Morrison, use .134-inch wall tubing) that includes a forward-running side bar from the main hoop past the driver’s shoulder. This bar is only required on the driver’s side, but most systems include both sides for a six-point rollbar.

An SFI-approved scattershield is also necessary in this e.t. category. NHRA requires the scattershield to have an SFI aluminum-foil sticker. According to Red Roberts of McLeod Industries, older bellhousings can be certified by sending the scattershield and block plate to the original manufacturer. The company will inspect the housing and if it passes, it will receive an SFI 6-1 certification. Most SFI certifications are good for five years. Contact your manufacturer if you’re not sure.

The clutch and flywheel must also be SFI certified. The main consideration in this area is to avoid using a cast-iron flywheel. According to Roberts, sometime in the mid-’70s most of the new car companies began using nodular iron flywheels that are much safer. Most, if not all, current high-performance aluminum and steel flywheels are safe when used in conjunction with an approved scattershield, but the rules state that the pressure plate and flywheel need an SFI certification number. Roberts says the best plan is to record all your SFI numbers in a logbook. This makes it easier for the tech inspector and it shows the inspector that you understand the importance of the inspection process. This e.t. level also requires steel valve stems in all wheels, along with arm restraints for open-cockpit cars like roadsters.

 

[turboboy4]

I read that too but I think that is way old and isnt up to date. My dad should have gotten his rule book by now I will have him look in it and see what the actual rule book says. No reason to get crazy quit yet

 

[E116]

Ya it just says required in this category, which is true but vague. And being that it was written in February 2009 we dont have anything to worry about. Thanks for the scare talondave haha

 

[talondave]

i also orderd a rulebook, so will know for sure when it comes!

 

[turboboy4]

Sounds like a plan, dont want to jump in all at once without knowing for positive

 

[thatblondechik]

Guess who recently woke up from a nice winter slumber?

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[Gooberlog]

It's alive!!

 

[96awd]

Guess who recently woke up from a nice winter slumber?

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I have the same Mercury Villager too
Anyway, I just read this whole thread and I wonder what else or fabricating is needed to run the 8.8 rear from the 00 Explorer.. Makes me want to do it now.. Can someone with the right knowledge PM me on what is actually needed? Or do I just buy the rear end from the 00 Explorer and throw it in the car?

 

[talondave]

I have the same Mercury Villager too
Anyway, I just read this whole thread and I wonder what else or fabricating is needed to run the 8.8 rear from the 00 Explorer.. Makes me want to do it now.. Can someone with the right knowledge PM me on what is actually needed? Or do I just buy the rear end from the 00 Explorer and throw it in the car?

Its definitely something a pro fab guy should do! There is alot of measuring/alining to do, along with getting a rear u-joint made and getting all the piping made with the bends to make the rear diff stable!

 

[Ravewolf]

I have the same Mercury Villager too
Anyway, I just read this whole thread and I wonder what else or fabricating is needed to run the 8.8 rear from the 00 Explorer.. Makes me want to do it now.. Can someone with the right knowledge PM me on what is actually needed? Or do I just buy the rear end from the 00 Explorer and throw it in the car?

Erm, from what little I read (just clicked the last page), it's more than just that buddy.

Being of the DSM community, there's gotta be a cheaper way to get wicked-strong axles that won't snap like pretzels and handle retarded, obscene amounts of torque. Without changing and putting...ford...parts....in our cars.

Hmmm

 

[turboboy4]

Erm, from what little I read (just clicked the last page), it's more than just that buddy.

Being of the DSM community, there's gotta be a cheaper way to get wicked-strong axles that won't snap like pretzels and handle retarded, obscene amounts of torque. Without changing and putting...ford...parts....in our cars.

Hmmm

I dont know if you have seen the prices for axles but they arent cheap and the ford rear-end swap is a cost effective way to not have to worry about tearing stuff up

 

[JusMX141]

Car is back and ready for another record-setting season. It received a couple upgrades including a race head in favor of the stock 1G head with a spring upgrade that was run last season, a full-race sheet metal intake manifold, and a handful of other goodies like Magnus head studs, etc.

Still running the same old junkyard HX40 with a chip at the tip of one of the compressor blades- it was disassembled during the off-season after a failed oil pump at the beginning of last year raised some concern as to the condition of the turbo, but the turbo lasted through the remainder of the 2010 season and showed only a little bit of scoring on the journal bearings from the failed pump upon disassembly. Absolutely ZERO thrust wear, even with a couple pulls near 40psi at the end of last year!

The durability of the Holset cartridge over the Garrett T3 cartridge at high boost levels is almost retarded.

 

[hypergenesis]

Here's the video of my 10.14@138
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I love when a 4cyl beats an 8cyl it just seems to make my day.

Very nice run and times