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Holset Turbos, PART 8

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I would suggest a cover from a blown turbo with the bigger wheel. But if the wheels have contacted the housing enough to rend the turbo worth nothing more than $50-100 or so, how much damage has the wheel done to the housing. It's just made of the same material as the wheel. . . I don't mean to discourage you. I mean to say, you'll really have to keep your eyes peeled. . . After all, I LOVE my big h1c. it really is a 20g on crack. Spools way faster than the typical td06 20g but still flows more at the same boost in bolton form. Smooth consistant response every where in the rev range. doesn't fall on its face with healthy cams and lots of boost up top.

The Compressor wheel has made enough contact with housing to show some nice grooving on both. it was caused from in and out play in the shaft.

glad to hear you like it so much. What do you think the big h1c would do with the OE style hot side (16^2) and a true twin scroll set with stock cams? jw LOL
 
Not saying it's the right thing to do, but the 16g I made the 11.2 pass on was originally a junker that had at one time hit the housing.

There was a LOT of in and out shaftplay when I got it, enough to leave pretty serious grooves in the wheel and housing. Got a Kamak turbo rebuild kit with the upgraded "superback" thrust bearing and thew it on. Seemed to still make pretty good power to move 3000lbs down the track at 120+. Absolutely no in and out play and very little up and down when I took it off so balance didn't seem to really be affected.

Granted I went into it knowing that it eating itself alive was a possibility and didn't mind swapping back to the 14b if need be. Only sharing my experience to say it can be done, especially if the blades just barely started to rub. Your mileage may vary. It does sort of bother you to know there is some airflow left to be had either way.
 
I need to hurry up and decide on which one to get. I've wanted one for years. Once my new stroker is broke in I'm going to take the plunge on a 35... just have to decide on which one, LOL.

Too bad the internal waste-gates suck. BEP says they're 1 week out of having some more mitsu housings in stock.
 
The HX40 E.T. record has been broken.

Well, shattered would be a more fitting term.


Talondave, on his first pass of the night, went
10.39 @ 133.



Video to follow. :sneaky:

Well now, an hx40 is officially an option for people shopping for 35r sized turbo's, for much less of an investment.
 
The HX40 E.T. record has been broken.

Well, shattered would be a more fitting term.


Talondave, on his first pass of the night, went
10.39 @ 133.



Video to follow. :sneaky:

DAMNNNN!!! Great time! Fill us in on what kind of HX40 it is and what hotside he is running and how much boost?
 
I finally made my car legal and got it over to my friends house for body work and paint last night. I think i fixed my idle surge issues... I forgot to plug in t he iac motor and reset the ecu... it seems to be ok since I did all that. I also had to re adjust my timing. It was a few degrees off which I'm sure didnt help. Dsmlink v3 made driving it to my friendshouse very easy with the combft adjust feature. I still dont have a wideband in it yet though so I can't play. But a few times i did hit it quick and the car is a freight train. THANK YOU to those of you on these holset threads that kept this going!!! IM HOOKED!!!!! Im thinking about a hx52 or 55 on my fathers old toy... a 57 chevy prostreet with a big block 427 in it that spins 7200rpm. :sneaky: aLthough that may not happen for quite some time.
 
Im wondering if someone can help me out with a little more info Of a holset turbo I have. Its a H1C turbo but thats pretty much all I know.. can anyone help. Its has 8 blades on the compressor side.


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Looks to be a 54mm big h1c. Pulling the compressor cover to measure the compressor inducer is cake. It's just one 7/16-12mm nut.

So I took the compressor cover off to verify if it was the "big H1C" and its measured out to be 54mm. :thumb: Now I'm wondering if I would I be able to keep the stock hotside?

The pic. of the compressor inducer measurement.
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Gosh I can't wait to get to the track. Fidanza cam gears, new pressure plate, RRE diff bushings, and new driveshaft going in and she is going to the track. This is the fastest my car has ever felt. I want 11s so bad I can taste it.. It tastes like e85 kinda.
 
Here is a picture of my friend's set-up.

98 Dodge Neon
2.4 Stratus block w/SRT-4 rods and pistons
Stock 420a Eclipse head
Hahn turbo kit log manifold
HY-35 T3 housing
2.5" Turbo back exhaust
Stock Cams

He hasn't done much tuning on it yet with Megasquirt so he hasn't gotten much from it yet. IIRC boost is coming on around 3000.

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Here's a link to his project thread on neons.org if anyone's interested in his build. www.neons.org • View topic - Project: Something Different-On The Road Again
 
Gosh I can't wait to get to the track. Fidanza cam gears, new pressure plate, RRE diff bushings, and new driveshaft going in and she is going to the track. This is the fastest my car has ever felt. I want 11s so bad I can taste it.. It tastes like e85 kinda.

hey man you can rep me on the diff bushings LOL:D
 
Sorry let me edit. Black Gst rear diff bushings LOL.. I am maxing my 850s out on e85 and 22ish psi.

70-90 in 2.02. My trunk has 2 jl 10s in it, a spare tire, my back seat is full of random crap, and my tank is full of e85. fastest 70-90 by .2 secs.
 

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Well I'm finally done with the holset. Its an hx-35 8 blade. Haven't driven the car yet. I'm taking care of some coolant leaks and some other little nick-nacks. Oil pressure at cold Idle/initial start up was 50psi. As the engine was getting warmed up, the oil psi would decrease. Fully warmed up at idle. Oil psi would bounce between 12 and 14psi. Free reved the car at WOT only to 6000rpms since it was inside a garage and it was late at night and people would complain. Oil pressure was 50 psi. I know I could've gotten a bit higher psi if I would''ve reved to 7000rpms but I just feel a bit uncomfortable free reving the motor that high. Either way I'm statisfied with my oil psi. Not too high and not too low. Right within specs. LOL.
The oil restrictor that I'm using is .075 with a -4an line and some other fittings.
Oil drain is a custom drain that is about 16an that necks to a 12an. Complements of JB weld. LOL. I'll post some results once I get it running. I'll be boosting stock boost for now which is about 10psi or so. Gotta take care of other nick-nacks. I will say this. That turbo sounds AWESOME!!! very loud!!!
 
Oil pressure seems alittle low. Are you monitoring the pressure at the turbo or at the OFH.. If I free rev the engine when warm to just 4k i see 75 psi with a modded OFH.
 
If I have the .55 ar bolt on housing on an hx40 pro am I going to need to port out the wastegate hole in order to run low boost? I'm running a Tial 38 off the o2 housing. Thanks in advance.
 
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Oil pressure seems alittle low. Are you monitoring the pressure at the turbo or at the OFH.. If I free rev the engine when warm to just 4k i see 75 psi with a modded OFH.

Oh. I didn't know it was low since at Idle it doesn't dip below 12psi. Wouldn't yours be a bit high? knowing that the max oil PSI shouldn't go over 72 after warm up at wot?
Well my OFH is not modify. So basically I should have seen a higher PSI. I'm measuring oil pressure at the OFH after the .075 restrictor. I wanted to measure right at the CHRA entrance but I just can't fit any more adapters and fittings there. I don't have any space. So the next best place to meassure is after the restrictor and at the beginning of the line.
I'm sure I'm ok. As long as I am getting over 10psi at Idle and over 30 psi at load without going over 72 psi, I should be fine.
 
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