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Holset Turbos, PART 8

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I dont get how you spool that fast!! I have a 2.3l stroker with the BEP bolt on, cams, Magnus and I see 20psi at 3800?? I need to check my wastegate for sure.
 
2.4L dual 255 on e85!! The BEP housing was ported also. 11lb spring on the 38mm tial WG. Running off the PR O2 housing. Head is ported and polished too with FP2 cams. I don't know if the port and polish help spool times but yea it is ridiculously fast. Now if I can get the HX-52 to Spool in the 4000 RPM range that would be "GOLDEN". 42R power with about a 50 trim spool. We'll see what happens.
 
I did some porting the the BEP as well. I might have leak where the o2 housing mates to the hotside so I am going to be checking thaty out today. I am on pump and meth.
 
E85 Definitely helps with spool times. Fixing that will also help with your spool up. I would assume that might be the culprit of your spool issue or some type of exhaust leak.
 
Ya but I can run a ton of timing down low and not get knock. Im suprised because e85 burns cooler than gas and you would think the cooler gas wouldn't exactly hurt spool but surely won't increase it.
 
well it also burns slower so my reasoning is that you can run more timing and since it burns slower maybe it still burning while its on its way through the turbo too...

im just spitballing here but it kinda makes sense
 
Kinda makes sense to me. I see guys hitting about 8-10lbs of boost with the two step on launch when I was hitting about 22-24Lbs on the two step. With the slower burn I believe it helps with the spool of the turbo as well. I am no expert though. If i had better tires or slicks I think I would be breaking trannies left and right with the QM twin disk.
 
Ya on antilag last year i was making 20psi with the holset. Since I did the build I only made about 12.. I think I have a leak!
 
doesitonall4rs-
I have v3 lite. I know that the program is quite simple. Just having a starting point takes out some of the guess work and makes it a bit easier. I have started messing with it and im getting the hang of it however Im having this weird idle surge once it enters closed loop and then stays at 1800. I command it to open loop and it only goes to 1500. Even with the tps properly adjusted and idle switch played with and biss screw turned all the way in. havent found an intake leak yet but I'm going to keep searching. The mitsu vs subie day at etown is october 23rd from 10am to 7pm
Do you have the FAIV hooked up? When i deleted my coolant lines to the FAIV I had some crazy ass idle surge problems. I didn't know for years what it was until I hooked the lines back up and then the car idled really smooth!
 
Bought a baby H1C today for 50 dollars.

Part # 3525699R
Model # H1C
Serial # 23375

measurements.
Compressor wheel diameter is 82.5mm.
Inducer is 45.8mm.
8 blade compressor wheel.
12 blade turbine wheel.
16cm hotside.

I searched the forum for the specs of the h1c and came up with baby=45mm, small=50-52mm, big=54mm.

The question of the day. LOL.

Can i buy a Big h1c or WH1C compressor housing and wheel for the baby? It needs a rebuild anyways so i will be buying a rebuild kit for it already if this would work.
 
Do you have the FAIV hooked up? When i deleted my coolant lines to the FAIV I had some crazy ass idle surge problems. I didn't know for years what it was until I hooked the lines back up and then the car idled really smooth!


Its funny you ask. I had the throttle body rebuilt by a reputable member on here who installed a fiav bypass to allow for the iac but deletion of the coolant lines and the fiav. Rioght now the lines are exposed to the elements. I do still have to double check for any intake leaks but its just funny how it surges right before closed loop mode and then stays idling high at closed loop. Its almost impossible for me to post a log right now as my computer for tuning doesn't have internet access at the moment and I dont know when it will.
 
My hx40 showed up today. Now I just need to figure out how I am going to run the oiling setup. Also, what should I do with the lip on the compressor outlet? Do you grind it off or find an adapter? Thanks.
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Grind it off nice and evenly, but leave a little bit of a lip for the coupler to "bite" onto.

P.S. The turbo looks great! is it an hx40 pro?

Its funny you ask. I had the throttle body rebuilt by a reputable member on here who installed a fiav bypass to allow for the iac but deletion of the coolant lines and the fiav. Rioght now the lines are exposed to the elements. I do still have to double check for any intake leaks but its just funny how it surges right before closed loop mode and then stays idling high at closed loop. Its almost impossible for me to post a log right now as my computer for tuning doesn't have internet access at the moment and I dont know when it will.

Yea I would check for vacuum leaks, but if none come up then its time to start looking at the FAIV/IAC as being the possible culprits.
 
Something IS wrong. I and many others see that spool with a 2.0L motor with cams and 93 octane pumpgas.

Ya I was doing some logging last night and I added a ton of timing. 4 degrees more from 2500-3500 and then brough the timing back down to -3 degrees from 5k-7.5k. No knock but not the power I want. I think it might be the cams.. I am seriously debating on switching the cams. I am calling delta today. Also at about 6500 rpms it falls on its face. I am having a problem of over flowing my maf(3in GM) though. My mafcomp only goes to 2400 hz and I am seeing 3000 hz
 
Stock cams even see spool in that range. . . Unless you're cams are is dire need of degreeing (which can be entirely possible), there may be another issue. I know nothing about the "Sim racing 275 grind".

Bought a baby H1C today for 50 dollars.

Part # 3525699R
Model # H1C
Serial # 23375

measurements.
Compressor wheel diameter is 82.5mm.
Inducer is 45.8mm.
8 blade compressor wheel.
12 blade turbine wheel.
16cm hotside.

I searched the forum for the specs of the h1c and came up with baby=45mm, small=50-52mm, big=54mm.

The question of the day. LOL.

Can i buy a Big h1c or WH1C compressor housing and wheel for the baby? It needs a rebuild anyways so i will be buying a rebuild kit for it already if this would work.

Assuming the bearing cartridge is the same, you would at least need to also swap the back plate. The small/big/w h1c turbos have a vband clamp holding the compressor cover to the backplate.
 
Assuming the bearing cartridge is the same, you would at least need to also swap the back plate. The small/big/w h1c turbos have a vband clamp holding the compressor cover to the backplate.

How would i go by finding out if the bearing cartridge is the same bewteen those models? The baby does have a vband compressor cover to the back plate as well or at least mine does. From what i have read on the forums is the hot side is the same between the three models of the H1C. Please correct me if i am wrong.
 
dragonov_elite, if yours has the vband housing then you could be a step a head. But my major diameter for my big h1c measure 81.75mm per my digital caliper. You said yours is 82.5mm. If it's actually that different then you will still need a backplate. Get a good measurement.

I THINK the center cartridges are the same; since the rebuild kit applies for all of the h1c turbos. Never bothered varifying because we can get better sized h1c turbos in good shape for less than used 16g turbos ;) .

I still don't think any of this is worth it. I paid $200 for my big h1c in GREAT condition. The compressor wheel alone will cost more than that. If you can get a blown big h1c or wh1c for $50-100 with good wheels, just rebuild that.

****Edit: Well actually I see HTTurbo has them for $45. My h1c has one of the part numbers mentioned there on that link, but measures only 81.75mm. So varify the compressor major diameter measurements. But, you still will need a new compressor cover. I don't know where you can get one of those for less than the cost of a good used h1c that already has the larger compressor wheel installed.
 
My hx40 showed up today. Now I just need to figure out how I am going to run the oiling setup. Also, what should I do with the lip on the compressor outlet? Do you grind it off or find an adapter? Thanks.

i actually had the end of the compressor cover cut off and used a modified 2g throttle body elbow tig welded to the end of it. Now instead of getting a 90 degree bend coupler or having a million t-bolt clamps to make a bunch of sleeves fit i just have 2 clamps and one silicone coupler from the outlet to my licp. It looks like a backwards t-25 outlet.
 
dragonov_elite, if yours has the vband housing then you could be a step a head. But my major diameter for my big h1c measure 81.75mm per my digital caliper. You said yours is 82.5mm. If it's actually that different then you will still need a backplate. Get a good measurement.

****Edit: Well actually I see HTTurbo has them for $45. My h1c has one of the part numbers mentioned there on that link, but measures only 81.75mm. So varify the compressor major diameter measurements. But, you still will need a new compressor cover. I don't know where you can get one of those for less than the cost of a good used h1c that already has the larger compressor wheel installed.

Went back and checked my measurements and found out your where correct about what they are. My bad :coy:

Of course i don't think it helps much to just have a 10 dollar caliper LOL.

Thanks for sharing the link. $45 doesn't seem to bad. Now its just the hard part of finding a compressor cover.
 
I would suggest a cover from a blown turbo with the bigger wheel. But if the wheels have contacted the housing enough to rend the turbo worth nothing more than $50-100 or so, how much damage has the wheel done to the housing. It's just made of the same material as the wheel. . . I don't mean to discourage you. I mean to say, you'll really have to keep your eyes peeled. . . After all, I LOVE my big h1c. it really is a 20g on crack. Spools way faster than the typical td06 20g but still flows more at the same boost in bolton form. Smooth consistant response every where in the rev range. doesn't fall on its face with healthy cams and lots of boost up top.
 
Poor John. Your spooling slower then when I had my hx40 on my 2.0l. I get 20 psi earlier then you although I have stock cams. You definitely have some kind of problem. Also, having a weak clutch doesn't help.
 
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