Holset Turbos, PART 7

[dsmmatt28]

.



I've pretty much decided to go with a 6 blade HX40 wheel/housing, remove as much of the divider in the turbine housing as I can and port match it to the manifold, and see where that gets me.[/QUOTE]

Here is a log from my hx40/35hybrid hope it helps.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...whp-log-speed-time-physics.html#post152113252

 

[Slippi84]

I know I gotta pay to play. Hahaha. I'm trying to save up for a new house this year so I really don't want to spend anymore money on this car but I set a goal for myself to have a 130 mph full weight 2g street car this year and I want that. After I have that I'll be satisfied for a bit.



I've pretty much decided to go with a 6 blade HX40 wheel/housing, remove as much of the divider in the turbine housing as I can and port match it to the manifold, and see where that gets me.

First off you have to either check for boost leaks or revamp your tune as 4600 full boost is to slow for your setup even with a open manifold. Second not that I disagree with going hx40 but you can do all the things you said with your turbo you have now. Last DEF DO NOT TRY AND GRIND THE DIVIDER IN A DIVIDED TURBINE HOUSING. That goes all the way threwout the hotside and just grinding the part you see at the top from the collector will kill the efgectiveness of that turbo both spool and flow wise

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Hey guys just wanted to share my hx35 experiences so far. I installed my 8blade hx35 back in October 2008. This car is my daily driver. I recently had the O2 housing off to port it, and had the intake off as well to boost leak test, The turbo looks absolutely great, no shaft play, no chipped fins. I have been running this turbo at 30psi pretty much a month after I put it on my car. This turbo had 140,000+ miles on it when I got it and is doing great to this point! I used to think it was a little laggy but I think I found the reason why (My IAC is completely blown apart and is leaking bad but I am scared to change it because my car idles soo well !)

As for the oiling, I have been feeding the turbo from the head since day one and have been running a a -10AN drain with no ill effects on the car.

If I would have to buy another turbo again, there is no doupt in my mind it would be a holset! Reliable, Big, Heavy duty, everything a DSM is not

 

[dsm-onster]

Glad to see you're happy with your investment.

I really would check your oil pressure at the inlet. . . It's not hard to do (you can do it in neutral), nore expensive. Use your fuel pressure gauge and a Tee. idle, about 3K and redline. . .

Last DEF DO NOT TRY AND GRIND THE DIVIDER IN A DIVIDED TURBINE HOUSING. That goes all the way threwout the hotside and just grinding the part you see at the top from the collector will kill the efgectiveness of that turbo both spool and flow wise

I agree. Just round (radius) the divider.

 

[Pirrofab]

What is the oil pressure you are seeing at the head? as well as if your running a restrictor. What kind of oil is used? Do you have balanca shafts? oil squirters?

Hey guys just wanted to share my hx35 experiences so far. I installed my 8blade hx35 back in October 2008. This car is my daily driver. I recently had the O2 housing off to port it, and had the intake off as well to boost leak test, The turbo looks absolutely great, no shaft play, no chipped fins. I have been running this turbo at 30psi pretty much a month after I put it on my car. This turbo had 140,000+ miles on it when I got it and is doing great to this point! I used to think it was a little laggy but I think I found the reason why (My IAC is completely blown apart and is leaking bad but I am scared to change it because my car idles soo well !)

As for the oiling, I have been feeding the turbo from the head since day one and have been running a a -10AN drain with no ill effects on the car.

If I would have to buy another turbo again, there is no doupt in my mind it would be a holset! Reliable, Big, Heavy duty, everything a DSM is not

 

[rampridersrider]

First off you have to either check for boost leaks or revamp your tune as 4600 full boost is to slow for your setup even with a open manifold. Second not that I disagree with going hx40 but you can do all the things you said with your turbo you have now. Last DEF DO NOT TRY AND GRIND THE DIVIDER IN A DIVIDED TURBINE HOUSING. That goes all the way threwout the hotside and just grinding the part you see at the top from the collector will kill the efgectiveness of that turbo both spool and flow wise

I guess I can check for boost leaks, but I doubt theres anything bad enough to make the car not build boost faster. The maf needed zero calibration when tuning and the car literally tuned itself so everything seems to be dead on running perfect. I'm adding a lot of timing off boost to help spool and the car is running nice and lean going into boost so I've pretty much done everything I can to help spool.

I dunno. It would be nice if they made a budget twin scroll T3 manifold like the Darkperformance one. I would buy that bi*** in a heartbeat.

I guess I can throw on a Drag manifold or something, put on a GM maft, and bump boost up a bit to around 32 psi and see what the car does. I'm sure the compressor will be maxed out. Then maybe throw on some meth (I'm already on E85). I would like to keep the stock 2g maf, but I'm already overrunning it and its a big restriction right now with the amount of air being sucked in.


Last, why the hell is everyone saying do not remove any of the divider. Its actually pissing me off cause do you guys have any proof showing its a bad idea or is it just speculation? I would love to hear some hard evidence showing that removing about an inch of the divider into the turbine and then radiusing the dividering and port matching the inlet to the mani outlet is a bad thing. I don't see how I'm wrong, so I would love to be enlightened.


I don't see how an open manifold and tons of air being slammed into this is efficient.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

What about even doing this? I don't like the how knife edged it is, but its still probably a lot better for airflow.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

My idea is something similar to this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[dsm-onster]

It seamed you were discussing removing as much as possible. . . . That's what I would say would be a waste. Regardless, as long as you radius the divider, what's the difference in exactly how much is removed

Knife-edging isn't better than radiusing. See intake manifold designs. The stock 1g manifold has a more knife-edged division between the runners, while all good smims have a larger sweeping radiused entry. Aerodynamically, knife-edging causes the "Y" in the flow direction to be more sensative to uneven flow. A very minor difference in velocity from one entrance to the next will cause a much more substancial shearing or whipping effect with a knife-edge.

Radiusing is better. Because of commonly known techniques in port work have proven results. The only difference is temperature.

Of course yu can do whatever suits your fancy. The results would likely be minor indeed. But certainly it takes more time to grind out more material from a steel housing.

 

[Hubbard 0]

Each chamber of the manifold is supposed to be seperate from the other. That's how Twin Scroll works. If you cut it up like that, they aren't seperate, you'll have gas flowing between sides, and it'll cause flow turbulence on top of hurting spool even more.

 

[dsm-onster]

^^^ that only applies if he divides the pulses from the head out with a divided manifold.

Which BTW the dark performance manifold is a bad design. All that was invested in dividing 1 and 4 pulses from 2 and 3 but then they all overlap at the wastegate since there's no divider up to the gate seal. . . there's a reason why it's less expensive I guess.

 

[Hubbard 0]

Based on his last picture posted, the divider is cut back enough that it wouldn't seal to the manifold and it would allow the pulses to mix.

 

[rampridersrider]

Each chamber of the manifold is supposed to be seperate from the other. That's how Twin Scroll works. If you cut it up like that, they aren't seperate, you'll have gas flowing between sides, and it'll cause flow turbulence on top of hurting spool even more.

I know that. I'm talking about an open manifold feeding a twin scroll hotside and smoothing out the transition from open to divided.

I'm not sure if the picture I posted of the divided manifold is what confused you, but please take a moment to read through my entire post. I merely posted that picture to show what I planned on doing to the turbine inlet.

It seamed you were discussing removing as much as possible. . . . That's what I would say would be a waste. Regardless, as long as you radius the divider, what's the difference in exactly how much is removed

Knifedging isn't better than radiusing. See intake manifold designs. The 1g manifold has a more knoifedged division between the runners, while all good smims have a radiused entry. Aerodynamically, knif edging causes the change in flow directions to be more sensative. A very minor difference in velocity from one entrance to the next will cause a much more substancial shearing or whipping effect with a knife-edge.

Radiusing is better.

Well, in my head as much as possible means as far as my dremel with fit, which will probably be about 1.5 inches tops.

I also don't know why you keep saying the same things over and over again. I know knife edging isn't ideal, did you not read how I said "I don't like how its knife edged" when I posted that picture.

I'm actually done posting about this. Until somebody shows me that what I'm going to do will not work and make things worse, instead of simply speculating, I'm done with talking about the subject.

 

[Hubbard 0]

I guess I read over it too fast then. I didn't see that you were using a non divided manifold. I do understand your intentions with the turbine inlet though.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

What is the oil pressure you are seeing at the head? as well as if your running a restrictor. What kind of oil is used? Do you have balanca shafts? oil squirters?

I actually have no clue what oil pressure I have at the head, I just have a stock oil pressure gauge. I am using pep boys 10w40 oil, I have my rear balance shaft in and the front one I just have the belt cut for. I was scared to pull the oil pump when I had the engine out because I was scared it would start leaking I have yet to put an oil pump on successfully without leaks so needless to say It's always discouraging for me to pull an oil pump . I have oil squirters as well. The engine in the car is a low mileage "JDM motor" (~60KM), or so I was told when I bought it but with those things you never know. I have everything done to my car that I want, I honestly can't do anything else short of a built motor to my car. I just have to install my 4Bolt rear and tune it and I should be able to run the car in spring time hopefully.

I have my NLTS dialed in, just have to wire up the methanol to turn off when I am hitting NLTS so I don't detonate the motor.

The mods on my car are
DSMlink v2.5
Stock "JDM" 6bolt
ARP headstuds with stock non metal headgasket (which has held 31psi so far)
Brian Crower 272/272
XTD stage 4 clutch
Snow Performance Stage 1 meth kit running 100% methanol (150psi pump 650cc/hr nozzle)
Walbro 255
FIC 780cc injectors
Aeromotive Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
2G maf
4inch FP intake
4 bolt rear axle cups etc (not installed yet)
Extreme psi FMIC
Hallman Boost controller
Ebay wastegate
SBR cast race manifold
Ported Evo 3 O2 housing
3inch DP and Custom 3inch exhaust that came with the car
PLX wideband

I think thats about it hopefully with a good tune and decent driving I can run an ok time. This is an 8blade hx35 so i'm not expecting anything crazy out of it but it would be nice to add to the holset results thread!

 

[dsm-onster]

The 8blae hx35 has more in it than many give it credit for. . . .

I know that. I'm talking about an open manifold feeding a twin scroll hotside and smoothing out the transition from open to divided.

I'm not sure if the picture I posted of the divided manifold is what confused you, but please take a moment to read through my entire post. I merely posted that picture to show what I planned on doing to the turbine inlet.




Well, in my head as much as possible means as far as my dremel with fit, which will probably be about 1.5 inches tops.

I also don't know why you keep saying the same things over and over again. I know knife edging isn't ideal, did you not read how I said "I don't like how its knife edged" when I posted that picture.

I'm actually done posting about this. Until somebody shows me that what I'm going to do will not work and make things worse, instead of simply speculating, I'm done with talking about the subject.

WOW relax. I just said radiusing is better than cutting it out completely. If you want to radius it going 1 or so inches deep, I agree that wouldn't be a problem. That was not clear when you posted your thoughts and asked for input.

I didn't see that you didn't like the knife-edging. . . It's ok. . .

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

The 8blae hx35 has more in it than many give it credit for. . . .

You think I could run a stock engine over 33psi? I kinda feel like it will let go over 33psi. I know the turbo will hit it no problem, I have ran it at 31 a few times, and it was rock solid boost, car kinda felt like an animal, that was on the STOCK non EPROM ecu and SAFC

P.S. please don't post that picture again, that girl on the right is HORRIFYING hahaha

 

[dsm-onster]

that pic is shocking isnt it!!!!! But funny. Just trying to lighten the air.

Anyway. . . The hx35 8blade has the same compressor flow as the fp3052 (gt30r) but with a much taller map, much more efficienct in higher boost. . . It's a good turbo to run up the boost with a motor that's lacking in other flow mods.

Your motor will let go at a certain cylinder pressure not a certian boost. The cylinder pressure in the expansion/power stroke is far higher than at the compression stroke which is compressing what ever boost number you're running.

The 6bolt has been able to tolerate 550whp or more with a great tune. . . But the question is, are you at that hp level? It has nothing to do with your boost.

don't push it without more than an safc, or I will post that motivational up again. . .

 

[doesitonall4rs]

The 6bolt has been able to tolerate 550whp or more with a great tune. . . But the question is, are you at that hp level? It has nothing to do with your boost.

don't push it without more than an safc, or I will post that motivational up again. . .

I am def nowhere near 550whp, Oh and I already have link version 2.5, just set the boost at 18psi and have been taking it easy for a little while till the weather clears up and I can retune.

BTW have you read about the IACs blowing apart at 30+ psi? cause the other day I was pressure testing and found a MASSIVE boost leak at the IAC. Looked at it and the entire back half of the IAC is cracked.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just replace or remove/seal it. And be done. You have link. It takes seconds to get it to run like it was before the alteration

It's amazing that you're reporting such good spool speeds with a significant boost leak like that... If I'm picturing it the way you want me to see it.

 

[Pirrofab]

thank you for posting all that. Gives me some insight on oiling as I'm doing the very same thing as far as the balance belt being cut on my stock block and what not. How does the fp intake pipe fit into a 1g with a 2g k&n air filter? I've heard mixed results that some fit and some don't. I also wonder about this because the holset moves everything over to the passenger side that extra inch or so. You say your not expecting much for power? to me 400-450whp is perfect and thats what these do.

I actually have no clue what oil pressure I have at the head, I just have a stock oil pressure gauge. I am using pep boys 10w40 oil, I have my rear balance shaft in and the front one I just have the belt cut for. I was scared to pull the oil pump when I had the engine out because I was scared it would start leaking I have yet to put an oil pump on successfully without leaks so needless to say It's always discouraging for me to pull an oil pump . I have oil squirters as well. The engine in the car is a low mileage "JDM motor" (~60KM), or so I was told when I bought it but with those things you never know. I have everything done to my car that I want, I honestly can't do anything else short of a built motor to my car. I just have to install my 4Bolt rear and tune it and I should be able to run the car in spring time hopefully.

I have my NLTS dialed in, just have to wire up the methanol to turn off when I am hitting NLTS so I don't detonate the motor.

The mods on my car are
DSMlink v2.5
Stock "JDM" 6bolt
ARP headstuds with stock non metal headgasket (which has held 31psi so far)
Brian Crower 272/272
XTD stage 4 clutch
Snow Performance Stage 1 meth kit running 100% methanol (150psi pump 650cc/hr nozzle)
Walbro 255
FIC 780cc injectors
Aeromotive Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
2G maf
4inch FP intake
4 bolt rear axle cups etc (not installed yet)
Extreme psi FMIC
Hallman Boost controller
Ebay wastegate
SBR cast race manifold
Ported Evo 3 O2 housing
3inch DP and Custom 3inch exhaust that came with the car
PLX wideband

I think thats about it hopefully with a good tune and decent driving I can run an ok time. This is an 8blade hx35 so i'm not expecting anything crazy out of it but it would be nice to add to the holset results thread!

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Just replace or remove/seal it. And be done. You have link. It takes seconds to get it to run like it was before the alteration

It's amazing that you're reporting such good spool speeds with a significant boost leak like that... If I'm picturing it the way you want me to see it.

I wanted to remove it, but am worried car might idle/run like shit. As far as the IAC I know now why it blew apart. I remember the reason I went to holset is because I had a MASSIVE backfire out the intake when I went to start my car, I believe the meth nozzle emptied into the intake. Well that back fire was sooo massive it blew ALL my honey combs out of my 2G maf, and I didn't know and it bent one of my fins on my 16G

That Also must have blew apart my IAC.

I mean the spool is by no means terrible but the crack in that IAC is huge. Pressurizing to 5psi just sounds like a ballon under the hood, . It sometimes sucks having a big turbo that flows a good amount because it makes a leak like that seem unnoticeable. I just wonder how much faster my car would have been if that IAC was good the entire time . I think I really wan't to try to replace the IAC.

1) How does the fp intake pipe fit into a 1g with a 2g k&n air filter? I've heard mixed results that some fit and some don't. I also wonder about this because the holset moves everything over to the passenger side that extra inch or so.

2) You say your not expecting much for power? to me 400-450whp is perfect and thats what these do.

1) Well looking at your car, appears that you have a 92? So since you don't have pop ups I really think you should be perfect in getting the intake to fit. For me it was kind of a PITA, because I have a 91 and the flip up headlights take up a lot of room! I had to trim some of the intake pipe and couplers. I got it so the intake pipe sits flush up against the turbo and i shortened the couple to achieve that. I also cut the intake pipe where the Maf bolts on, just a tiny bit tho, no more than an inch, then I got the MAF to sit flush up against the intake pipe and shortened the coupler to achieve that as well. Every little amount of space I could get I got. But I really think you should be perfectly fine since you don't have pop ups!

2) I actually would be supper happy with 400-450 or a mid 11 second pass I also have a 3000GT VR-4 I am currently trying to start building again and shoot for 550wheel HP, and a galant VR-4 that I have no good idea of what I want to do with as far as mods and power. So I will be more than happy with 400ish wheel on the DSM.

Before I got link and was running at 30psi, I raced a few low 12 second cars and would always out pull them up top and midrange. I actually ran a 20G talon that supposedly ran a 12.0 on the stock SMIC, but when I raced him he upgraded to the FMIC. I ###### had about ~3 cars on him, but street racing is soo much different than track racing ya know?

 

[Slippi84]

I wanted to remove it, but am worried car might idle/run like shit. As far as the IAC I know now why it blew apart. I remember the reason I went to holset is because I had a MASSIVE backfire out the intake when I went to start my car, I believe the meth nozzle emptied into the intake. Well that back fire was sooo massive it blew ALL my honey combs out of my 2G maf, and I didn't know and it bent one of my fins on my 16G

That Also must have blew apart my IAC.

I mean the spool is by no means terrible but the crack in that IAC is huge. Pressurizing to 5psi just sounds like a ballon under the hood, . It sometimes sucks having a big turbo that flows a good amount because it makes a leak like that seem unnoticeable. I just wonder how much faster my car would have been if that IAC was good the entire time . I think I really wan't to try to replace the IAC.


1) Well looking at your car, appears that you have a 92? So since you don't have pop ups I really think you should be perfect in getting the intake to fit. For me it was kind of a PITA, because I have a 91 and the flip up headlights take up a lot of room! I had to trim some of the intake pipe and couplers. I got it so the intake pipe sits flush up against the turbo and i shortened the couple to achieve that. I also cut the intake pipe where the Maf bolts on, just a tiny bit tho, no more than an inch, then I got the MAF to sit flush up against the intake pipe and shortened the coupler to achieve that as well. Every little amount of space I could get I got. But I really think you should be perfectly fine since you don't have pop ups!

2) I actually would be supper happy with 400-450 or a mid 11 second pass I also have a 3000GT VR-4 I am currently trying to start building again and shoot for 550wheel HP, and a galant VR-4 that I have no good idea of what I want to do with as far as mods and power. So I will be more than happy with 400ish wheel on the DSM.

Before I got link and was running at 30psi, I raced a few low 12 second cars and would always out pull them up top and midrange. I actually ran a 20G talon that supposedly ran a 12.0 on the stock SMIC, but when I raced him he upgraded to the FMIC. I ###### had about ~3 cars on him, but street racing is soo much different than track racing ya know?

I don't live far from you I would be curious to take a look at this in person.

 

[blizz99]

I wanted to remove it, but am worried car might idle/run like shit. As far as the IAC I know now why it blew apart. I remember the reason I went to holset is because I had a MASSIVE backfire out the intake when I went to start my car, I believe the meth nozzle emptied into the intake. Well that back fire was sooo massive it blew ALL my honey combs out of my 2G maf, and I didn't know and it bent one of my fins on my 16G

That Also must have blew apart my IAC.

I mean the spool is by no means terrible but the crack in that IAC is huge. Pressurizing to 5psi just sounds like a ballon under the hood, . It sometimes sucks having a big turbo that flows a good amount because it makes a leak like that seem unnoticeable. I just wonder how much faster my car would have been if that IAC was good the entire time . I think I really wan't to try to replace the IAC.


1) Well looking at your car, appears that you have a 92? So since you don't have pop ups I really think you should be perfect in getting the intake to fit. For me it was kind of a PITA, because I have a 91 and the flip up headlights take up a lot of room! I had to trim some of the intake pipe and couplers. I got it so the intake pipe sits flush up against the turbo and i shortened the couple to achieve that. I also cut the intake pipe where the Maf bolts on, just a tiny bit tho, no more than an inch, then I got the MAF to sit flush up against the intake pipe and shortened the coupler to achieve that as well. Every little amount of space I could get I got. But I really think you should be perfectly fine since you don't have pop ups!

2) I actually would be supper happy with 400-450 or a mid 11 second pass I also have a 3000GT VR-4 I am currently trying to start building again and shoot for 550wheel HP, and a galant VR-4 that I have no good idea of what I want to do with as far as mods and power. So I will be more than happy with 400ish wheel on the DSM.

Before I got link and was running at 30psi, I raced a few low 12 second cars and would always out pull them up top and midrange. I actually ran a 20G talon that supposedly ran a 12.0 on the stock SMIC, but when I raced him he upgraded to the FMIC. I ###### had about ~3 cars on him, but street racing is soo much different than track racing ya know?

hey, im like 20 minutes from cherry hill. wanna get up sometime? i wanna see your setup. im waiting for a couple more parts to come in then im putting mine in.

 

[Pirrofab]

Actually my holset related build is for my 90 awd. Knowing what you had to modify to get that intake to fit is what I needed to know so thank you. Its going to suck to cut up that beautiful peice to make it all fit though.

If I had mney I'd have a great idea for your galant vr-4... sell it to me. I would love to get one... but im broke. if it wasn't for buying my awd i'd still be searching for a galant.

I wanted to remove it, but am worried car might idle/run like shit. As far as the IAC I know now why it blew apart. I remember the reason I went to holset is because I had a MASSIVE backfire out the intake when I went to start my car, I believe the meth nozzle emptied into the intake. Well that back fire was sooo massive it blew ALL my honey combs out of my 2G maf, and I didn't know and it bent one of my fins on my 16G

That Also must have blew apart my IAC.

I mean the spool is by no means terrible but the crack in that IAC is huge. Pressurizing to 5psi just sounds like a ballon under the hood, . It sometimes sucks having a big turbo that flows a good amount because it makes a leak like that seem unnoticeable. I just wonder how much faster my car would have been if that IAC was good the entire time . I think I really wan't to try to replace the IAC.


1) Well looking at your car, appears that you have a 92? So since you don't have pop ups I really think you should be perfect in getting the intake to fit. For me it was kind of a PITA, because I have a 91 and the flip up headlights take up a lot of room! I had to trim some of the intake pipe and couplers. I got it so the intake pipe sits flush up against the turbo and i shortened the couple to achieve that. I also cut the intake pipe where the Maf bolts on, just a tiny bit tho, no more than an inch, then I got the MAF to sit flush up against the intake pipe and shortened the coupler to achieve that as well. Every little amount of space I could get I got. But I really think you should be perfectly fine since you don't have pop ups!

2) I actually would be supper happy with 400-450 or a mid 11 second pass I also have a 3000GT VR-4 I am currently trying to start building again and shoot for 550wheel HP, and a galant VR-4 that I have no good idea of what I want to do with as far as mods and power. So I will be more than happy with 400ish wheel on the DSM.

Before I got link and was running at 30psi, I raced a few low 12 second cars and would always out pull them up top and midrange. I actually ran a 20G talon that supposedly ran a 12.0 on the stock SMIC, but when I raced him he upgraded to the FMIC. I ###### had about ~3 cars on him, but street racing is soo much different than track racing ya know?

 

[Morphius]

I've started to work on a FAQ:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/362444-holset-turbos-faq.html

It won't happen overnight. Be patient. If you have a suggestion for a FAQ question/topic, please PM me with it. If you have a link to some info (be it another site or a specific post in the Holset threads) that you feel is important, please PM me with the link. I will gather the info/links and use what best fits the topic. So, don't feel put out if I don't use a specific link, but it is noted for your help and that it helped shape the FAQ to what it will be.

Also note, we are still in the midst of the learning curve on these and every detail is not going to be known. Thus, not every detail can be included at this point. Yes, alot of people have helped compile a lot of good info and we continue to learn new detail weekly. (ie the FAQ is a living document that will grow over time)

 

[doesitonall4rs]

I don't live far from you I would be curious to take a look at this in person.

hey, im like 20 minutes from cherry hill. wanna get up sometime? i wanna see your setup. im waiting for a couple more parts to come in then im putting mine in.

What do you guys do on Thursday nights? there is a car meet in woodbury NJ in a 5 story parking garage that fills up every week. If you guys want more info I can PM both of you a link. its between 7:30 to 11:30 or 12

Actually my holset related build is for my 90 awd. Knowing what you had to modify to get that intake to fit is what I needed to know so thank you. Its going to suck to cut up that beautiful peice to make it all fit though.

If I had mney I'd have a great idea for your galant vr-4... sell it to me. I would love to get one... but im broke. if it wasn't for buying my awd i'd still be searching for a galant.

Don't worry bout cutting up the intake, you honestly won't be able to tell the difference when its back in the car!
Here is a reference pic of what filter fits the best. The HUGE K&N one I don't think would fit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

No way man I'll never sell that galant, I made it come a long way.

From this

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

to this

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

OP sorry for the minor hijack!