The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Holset Turbos, PART 6

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.
i got my t3 housing for $243 shipped from nick at the turbotrader, was at my house in 3 days too!
 
Well guys my 2.3L stroker/6 blade HX-40 is finally up and running. I am still in the process of tuning it with the AEM EMS so it still has a long way to go before it will be running at its full potential. I was tuning on a mustang dyno to get my afr's somewhat where they should be and i was already seeing some decent numbers. At 6000rpm and only 10psi of boost i was seeing 300whp. The engine was really hot when i saw those numbers since i was doing cell by cell tuning, and the car had been on the dyno all afternoon. Once i get the tuning done, i will be sure to post up the dyno sheets for you guys to look at.
 
Yes

The mitsu flange itself is fairly restrictive, although .63 would still be nice.
 
My holset hx 40 (6 blade) was recently distroyed. It did a good amount of damage to my exhaust housing, and did a slight amount of damage to my compressor housing from the compressor shaving down on the surface. I did the best I could smoothing out the exhaust housing and polishing the scoring from the compressor housing and I noticed the turbo now lacks HUGE power and spool MUCH slower (CHRA was replaced). I just ordered a new SS housing from David @ bullseye power and it should be here in 2 days. Would it be necessary to replace the compressor housing as well? At what point would the compressor housing make a difference in power output, air flow and spool up?

Here are some pics...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It did quite a bit of damage to both the compressor cover and the exhaust housing.... after hours of smoothing the surfaces the best I could, I installed the new CHRA and threw it on the car.....
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Old Part #'s... I believe this was before the weaker shafts were revised...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
My holset hx 40 (6 blade) was recently distroyed. It did a good amount of damage to my exhaust housing, and did a slight amount of damage to my compressor housing from the compressor shaving down on the surface.

Have you figured out the reason for your prior turbo's failure?
 
It looks like your cigarette has lipstick on it.

ever see Silence Of The Lambs? yea.....

J/K It was chapstick...


Have you figured out the reason for your prior turbo's failure?

Im not exactly sure....
The very 1st thing I did before removing the turbo was check the oil feed line, I disconnected it from the turbo and placed it in a Monster Energy drink can (24oz?), when starting the car It filled the can within 8-10 seconds. I also checked the oil return line for any slight kinks or clogs....100% flow. This turbo CHRA was on the Valu-Jet when Carl (GV Autosport.com) ran the Holset, and also when the Oil Filter Housing blew off his car and it was driven back to the shop a few miles, so the turbo has seen a bit of oil starvation 3 years ago. This CHRA was also ran on my car for 1.5-2 years and also on a friends car for 8 months, then back on my car during engine break in. I do have another cartridge (CHRA) that I ran in the car that developed cracking all around the turbine wheel so I ended up swaping it just in case it decided to come apart. The CHRA that was cracking and the CHRA in the pictures both share the same part numbers and info casted into them.

My best assumption of what happened is that the turbine wheel was also developing cracks or had a shaft problem. I was having a tuning issue that night too. I found the #3 spark plug wire was jumping spark to the intake manifold, and causing a machine gun like misfire which may have created enough turbulance to make a turbine fin come loose (if cracking) or contact the housing and eat itself (if shaft problem)
 
If you smoothed the scoring in the turbine housing and compressor housing, then you spaced the housing from the blades too far at those areas. If there is scoring, then there is turblance created at the contours of the blades where the highest velocity and most flow occurs through the compressor wheel and turbine wheel. Definately can cause low power and slow spool. . .

I've mentioned this already in another holset thread. There were some older hx40 turbine wheels coming apart. This is mentioned throughout the diesel forums. Looks like you have narrowed down the partnumber. No later hx40s had such a problem of course. And there weren't many different hx40s that had the problem in the first place from my take on what everone was saying then. I think it was a particular string of hx40 turbine wheels built in the late '90s to early 2000s.

A spark plug misfire would send a 100% non-burned airfuel mixture to a 1500degree turbine. Antilag at it's best.
 
I have a question i have been wondering for awhile....

If im correct the 16cm housing is a divided T3 right? Well if i was looking that the right spot the the outlet is 6 bolts. Would the 3" 6 bolt o2 housing that JMfab made for the BW's fit this? I have both the twin scroll mani and o2 housing and might be able to get a setup fairly cheap and j/w if that housing would bolt up.
 
If you smoothed the scoring in the turbine housing and compressor housing, then you spaced the housing from the blades too far at those areas. If there is scoring, then there is turblance created at the contours of the blades where the highest velocity and most flow occurs through the compressor wheel and turbine wheel. Definately can cause low power and slow spool. . .

I've mentioned this already in another holset thread. There were some older hx40 turbine wheels coming apart. This is mentioned throughout the diesel forums. Looks like you have narrowed down the partnumber. No later hx40s had such a problem of course. And there weren't many different hx40s that had the problem in the first place from my take on what everone was saying then. I think it was a particular string of hx40 turbine wheels built in the late '90s to early 2000s.

A spark plug misfire would send a 100% non-burned airfuel mixture to a 1500degree turbine. Antilag at it's best.

I was sharing the same thoughts. I remember when reading threw 1000 pages of holset info, I saw some postings about the older models having failures coming apart and shafts breaking. I'm sure I'll be good to go for a long time with the new CHRA I got.

The misfire sounded like anti-lag too...

I got the new SS BEP housing today, so I should have it replaced by the end of the weekend. I'll see how if feels and compares to some older logs before I replace the compressor housing since I polished the debris and some scoring out of it.
 
My small review/post on bolt-on HX35 7 blade.

After everyones reviews and words and threads on here i went from a E316G to the 7 blade. I have previously had a B16G, SCM61 before.

I expected a lot more spool out of this turbo from everyone's word, but so far according to link (my airflow/boostest is almost dead on) i will get 20psi by 4200rpms everytime from a 3500rpm 3rd gear punch this is about the same as i did with my SCM6169S.
When this turbo kicks in it moves damn good, but I miss my low end.

NOW to me: I am that guy that wants a big turbo/top end but wants the response of a 16G sad to say all the words of being able to compare this turbo to a 16G well isn't really existant. I have checked for boost leaks and done a compression test and nothing.

Good luck to all you holset users.
 
My small review/post on bolt-on HX35 7 blade.

After everyones reviews and words and threads on here i went from a E316G to the 7 blade. I have previously had a B16G, SCM61 before.

I expected a lot more spool out of this turbo from everyone's word, but so far according to link (my airflow/boostest is almost dead on) i will get 20psi by 4200rpms everytime from a 3500rpm 3rd gear punch this is about the same as i did with my SCM6169S.
When this turbo kicks in it moves damn good, but I miss my low end.

NOW to me: I am that guy that wants a big turbo/top end but wants the response of a 16G sad to say all the words of being able to compare this turbo to a 16G well isn't really existant. I have checked for boost leaks and done a compression test and nothing.

Good luck to all you holset users.

I think you should work on the tune before you blow off the holset. I get spool a little better than that with a bolt on hx40. For your goals it sounds like a 50 trim would be a good shot.
 
I am not done yet, this is my somewhat initial review with a stock bottom end.

I am hoping with tuning that I can reduce the spool time but with the boost levels I am running I would of thought it would of made more power.
 
More power? wheres your dyno sheet? Are you comparing a gt35r compressor with a much larger turbine wheel than an hx35 in your pte turbo to a bolton hx35 LOL?;)

If you don't start your run at 3500rpms, you may get a better spool speed. I get 20ish psi by 3500rpms. I wouldn't be able to say that I do if I hit full throttle AT 3500rpms. Start at 2K or 1700rpms, like you do on a dyno.
 
More power? wheres your dyno sheet? Are you comparing a gt35r compressor with a much larger turbine wheel than an hx35 in your pte turbo to a bolton hx35 LOL?;)

If you don't start your run at 3500rpms, you may get a better spool speed. I get 20ish psi by 3500rpms. I wouldn't be able to say that I do if I hit full throttle AT 3500rpms. Start at 2K or 1700rpms, like you do on a dyno.

This is exactly right! you cant just lay into the throttle at 3500 and expect your boost guage to peg. But if you lay into it low it will spool full boost very early. These turbo's are awesome!
 
I am currently putting together a twin scroll t4 6 blade HX40 build. I am trying to figure out what to do with the exhaust... After much searching of this forum and many others, including turbo diesel forums I am no closer to an answer. I need to know if the 4" v-band off the stock Holset housing is a normal v-band flange that standard clamps and flanges will work with or if it is a special one. I have found people saying both.
 
Here's what one guy did. Click.

If you have diesel shop local to you, you may be able to order the exact flange and clamp.

The h1e turbine housing I'm trading to you for yours has a wastegate hole, therefore it has a 4bolt flange adapter from the factory that unbolts from it. The vband outlet can be removed and you can install an ebay 4bolt pattern holset outlet flange and weld a down pipe to that. I just weld the down pipe to the outlet flange already on the housing since you still can remove the down pipe by removing that factory adapter.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


If you buy from ebay make sure it is a hloset 4bolt flange not a garrett/ford pattern. You'll have to find a way to keep the flapper shut anyway. You can buy the 4bolt flange and tap for a bolt to screw into the flange and keep the flapper shut. Or you can do that to the original flange adapter.

The housing you're trading to me has this as well.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I plan on just welding right to the original flange adapter. And removing the bolts any time I want the turbo to separate from the down pipe.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Has anyone used a Revhard manifold with a Holset 12cm housing? Their cast mani looks like it will give a good amount of block clearance and it's well within my price range.
 
Hmm, to answer my own post above I think I may have found the proper clamps and flange for the HX40 at this site:

Holset Clamps and Flanges
 
Not really relevant to the discussion, I just thought I'd share a picture in my excitement :) Finally joined the divided T3 club, so as soon as I get around to slapping a civic rad in the car I can put this in:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top