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Holset Turbos, PART 4

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ceedawg.This housing is a T6 footprint. So it is much larger than a T4 even. Externally every way we measured it, it was pretty much the same as a Garrett 1.15a/r housing. So this 16cm is not the same as a T3 16cm.

Steven
 
It was my engine that has the bearing damage :(
Plan on rebuilding your Holset while you're at it....if you're not running an inline filter, half of your rod bearings are now in the turbo. :shhh:
 
Plan on rebuilding your Holset while you're at it....if you're not running an inline filter, half of your rod bearings are now in the turbo. :shhh:

The oil filter is not enough? I guess not. I have my oil supply tapped at the housing right after the oil filter. There is no wabble in the shaft at all. And it still spins freely. But I'll be pulling that apart too.
 
Yes it is true, but I've seen it and heard it few times, that the inline filter is getting clogged and you nuke the turbo really fast, without even realizing it.
 
The oil filter is not enough? I guess not.

A buddy of mine from MD recently had his head done at a local machine shop that apparently didn't clean everything up so well....200 miles later, his 5027E started howling. We pulled it apart last weekend and it was FULL of metal which tore the journal bearings to hell; and he was taking oil from the filter housing, too.

The metal that was in the turbo wasn't small chunks that would signal some type of problem....they were long, thin strands- the same type of metal generated when something is machined.

I'm planning on running an inline filter on every turbo car I build for myself....ball-bearing or journal-bearing.

Yes it is true, but I've seen it and heard it few times, that the inline filter is getting clogged and you nuke the turbo really fast, without even realizing it.

Most of the inline filters that are available nowadays have a large enough surface area that it would take quite an engine issue to send enough metal through the line to clog one.

By design, these units are only in place to catch metal before it goes into the turbo in the event of an engine failure to save your $1000+ investment. The only time these filters should get clogged is if something is horribly wrong with your engine....otherwise, they're going to catch one or two decent-sized particles every oil change and that's about it.
 
It's not the turbine housing that's huge. It's the compressor that's small. That is the small h1c. There's no MWE webbing. The big h1c has the webbing but no MWE groove. The small h1c has a 4mm smaller inducer at the compressor. All the dodge cummins guys claim that they flow much less than the big h1c and almost all swap to the big h1c as their first upgrade.

It is the big h1c that is very close in flow to the hx35. In fact most just swap to the hx35 from the big h1c for surge control, since the groove is actually there on the hx35 (and since the wh1c which is the big h1c with internal gating and a MWE groove cut in it is so rare). Now they all seem just to take the cover to the machine shop and have the groove cut so they don't have to change out the turbo completely.
 
What are you guys using for the snap ring in the holset? I usaully use a huge set of adjustable pliers because I cant find the lock/snap ring pliers that big anywhere including my snap-on guy.
 
What are you guys using for the snap ring in the holset? I usaully use a huge set of adjustable pliers because I cant find the lock/snap ring pliers that big anywhere including my snap-on guy.

Yeah same here I hate that dam snap ring. It makes closking this thing a huge PITA. I went threw everything and clocked it where I THOUGHT would be good and then put it on the car decided that a spacer would make the install a little easier cause it was to close to my starter and of course I have to take it off and clock it again. Mine would not turn either untill I took the ring out all the way I couldn't get away with just compressing it all the way.:notgood:
 
Too bad you guys can't be cool like me have a v-band compressor. :D

Steven
 
That is what I am talking about. Look at my pictures on the last page. The housing is secured with a V-band. Just ribbing you a little. And it is an investment, but going to an external wastegate will eliminate some of these issues.

Steven
 
That is what I am talking about. Look at my pictures on the last page. The housing is secured with a V-band. Just ribbing you a little. And it is an investment, but going to an external wastegate will eliminate some of these issues.

Steven

Ok I see what style you have. You see that on a lot of the real big turbo's like the s366 gt4088r and such. I have no idea how a external wastegate will affect this but I"m already setup for external anyway.
 

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The h1c and h1e have a vband compressor housing, as well. It really makes the h1c or h1e install much easier. I can just loosen the clamp and whirl around the compressor outlet to any direction I want for both turbos. I even took it off with the turbo installed and started the car without the maf plugged in (it will run) just to see the compressor spin at idle. Not that it matters :) . It looked "cool" though.
 
SOunds pretty cool. If I could find a snap ring get up that would expand that wide it would be easy but no luck:mad: It's ok you guys still aren't pimpin with teh vband compressor outlet :rocks: LOL
 
Haha I was wondering why you guys were having such trouble when I had mine clocked in 5 seconds...then I realized i have a H1E and they look easier to move around like Matt said.
 
I just saw that I did see it but still had a brain fart. I guess that snap ring will make for some difficulties. Good luck. I took the easy road out.
 
Yeah same here I hate that dam snap ring. It makes closking this thing a huge PITA. I went threw everything and clocked it where I THOUGHT would be good and then put it on the car decided that a spacer would make the install a little easier cause it was to close to my starter and of course I have to take it off and clock it again. Mine would not turn either untill I took the ring out all the way I couldn't get away with just compressing it all the way.:notgood:

A little while back I clocked the turbo...It was Perfect! so I decided to pop it back off and mark the compressor housing and exhaust housing to line up with the center of the oil return port. Now everytime I take it apart for some reason or swap the cartridge, Its easily clocked and perfect everytime.

I hope someone in here knows a part # or somthing for the snap ring tool though. I'll call a dodge dealer and see if they have a specialty tool for this, But it is a dealer so I bet it wont get me too far.
 
If you really want the special tool for that you have to contact Miller special tools for the pliers. I worked at Dodge and looked in our tool room for that pair of pliers and couldn't find them.

I still have the HX-52. Looks identical to the one on the first page. You really need to put it next to a 50 trim to see the major size difference. I'm going to run a H1E in a Garret .86 T4 housing for a bit to kept cost down on getting the damn car running. I hope to get a top mount manifold and A1000 pump along with a second set of 1600cc injectors to run the HX-52 next year or so. I have a pic somewhere with a buddy holding it up to his head. The turbo makes his head look very small. It makes the H1E look small. I'll have to post a pic with the H1E and HX52 next to each other.

Oh you might want to look into some sort of turbo bracing on the HX-52. It weights in at around 44 lbs. That is way to heavy for any manifold w/o any bracing. It will end up cracking any SS manifold after enough heat cycles.
 
A little while back I clocked the turbo...It was Perfect! so I decided to pop it back off and mark the compressor housing and exhaust housing to line up with the center of the oil return port. Now everytime I take it apart for some reason or swap the cartridge, Its easily clocked and perfect everytime.

I hope someone in here knows a part # or somthing for the snap ring tool though. I'll call a dodge dealer and see if they have a specialty tool for this, But it is a dealer so I bet it wont get me too far.

Yeah I hear you with the marking the housing and center section but this is my initial setup so I"m kinda playing it by ear so there's no set way YET. Of course when I have it done I don't plan on swapping out anything with the turbo though.

As for the tool I checked Lisle catalog we have at work and they have one but it's not big enough. This snap ring has some nice kick back and you not only need something that will open up wide but be strong enough to close.
 
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