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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Started my dsm up after 2 years resting after my dog passed, and it sounded great.
Grats man! Sorry bout your dog. I'm firing mine back up later today after 3 years of sitting on jack stands.

YAKI SOBA!

Just started the same on the project e30 I grabbed!

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Pic is for laughs!
And that pic was like 30min after I started.

SO. MANY. T-TAPS.

Today is the day ladies and gents! After 3 years of upgrading, procrastinating, and cycles of S.A.D.; the GSR-4 is going back on the road!

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Wanted to save the inaugural drive for daytime.

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DONE

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The invaluable DSM Electrical FSM Bible vol 2 and my Lambo key fob (no electrics).
 
Painted my trim. wiring up my gauges washed windows, few things here and there waiting on ecu pins, and solder to show up.
 
Fired her up for the first time in 3 years. This is what resulted.

Lights would go bright with high rpms, 80amp popped twice. I do have a handful of accessories I run so I ordered a galant 90amp to help fix it along with some 4awg wire to run from the alt to the battery.

I think I need to rebleed the clutch, it's a twin disc PTE. Couldn't select any gears.

Valve cover OEM torque was too loose, leaked past the gasket onto the manifold.

My 1600cc s wouldn't work so I had to swap my old 880s in, which I can only get to idle at 14.7 by raising the dead time to almost double what it's supposed to be.

What else was I expecting? A SMOOTH launch? 😭

Also continued work on my Reventon inspired gauge faces. Going to try some stuff to get thr backlighting right.
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What'd I do to it today?


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GOT IT DRIVING AND F*CKING SHIFTING!

New OEM clutch master cylinder, bleed the system, and adjusting the rod was the fix. Parts store CMC's are JUNK yall.
 
Since I put the Saturn alternator on this car, the voltage has been giving the fuel pumps some grief. The relay kept popping, and the wires to the top of the assembly were HOT and smelled of fire. Each 450 pump pulls low 20 amps, and the spaghetti wiring is simply not up for it and the hell with that 1"x1" block relay. That is child's play. So I pulled the assembly and am redoing it all.

First thing first, get 2 proper bulkheads for the proper gauge wiring to pass through the assembly.

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I bought a new gasket for between the tank and assembly as I simply needed one and I realized I'm down to the mm on making this stuff work so wanted the gasket to be true and round to dictate the modifications. This is with a Full Blown hanger setup, so grinding on this - and the float assembly - is not for the faint of heart as the hanger is over 400 bucks so now we're playing with it's value there, and the grinding on the float is within less than a millimeter from clearancing it too far and it being junk.

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Ground side bulkhead. Stock, and even on this hanger, you can ground the pump internally on the assembly, but if you think about it, it is in the tank isolated from any ground by rubber gasket. I am going to ground the pumps directly to the battery terminal which is in the trunk (probably the only positive of putting the battery in the trunk). Anyways, here's that.

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I now have the ability to run large gauge wire directly to the pump. And by directly, I mean directly. Above is the virgin 450, below is the wiring part of the modification.

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Cleaned up, I have now eliminated the Walbro wires and exposed a big footprint to do my own thing.

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Stock Walbro 450 wire VS my new wire. This is 8 gauge PTFE wire safe for E85. If I had to do this again I would use 6 gauge. But 8 is plenty and I see no issues.

Just look at that difference.

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This last week I got my Ti STM castle nut installed/torqued into the front case, ported/gasket matched my new water pump before installing it, and was able to get my driver side FIBA UCA installed.
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nothing because my antique plate still hasnt come in (6 weeks), called penndot and they never answered me, and then cursed and kicked a wall 👍

Took 4 hours but I got this Evo steering wheel installed with DCP adapter. Kept factory cruise control lever for future endeavors of rolling launch control. Looks like it fits well.

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THIS IS HARD
 
nothing because my antique plate still hasnt come in (6 weeks), called penndot and they never answered me, and then cursed and kicked a wall 👍
I got mine at the local title and tag business and the plate was delivered to them within a few days. I ordered a custom antique plate at the same time and that came within a few weeks.
 
Over the past couple nights I fit a Motion Raceworks universal lightweight steering column and Fueltech steering wheel in my car.

OEM column + 3g steering wheel(airbag and all electronics deleted) = 14.6lbs
MRW + FT wheel = 5lbs

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The beautiful weather is here, and my galant alternator is coming tomorrow. So today I am focusing on finishing my guages. The biggest problem I have with these custom gauges is the bleedthrough through the black parts. The paper i am using is thick and folded with a mirrored gauge on the back to decrease light transmission through the black parts with a 0.6mm plastic sheet inbetween. I have abandoned the spotty OEM lighting and am experimenting with a 5mm continuous LED strip for back lighting. I sprayed the interior casing matte black to lessen the ambient brightness but I might try again with an OEM white for a bit more brightness.
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Bought my nonexistent motor some blood.

Driven BR40 10w40 break-in oil
Driven HR5 conventional 10w40 oil

Being told "next Friday". I can't complain (yet), I was told at the start it would likely be May.
 
Welp. Tried my hand and my step-dads at welding aluminum 🤣🤣🤣 didn't work out too well. Was trying to welding my iat sensor bung onto my tb elbow, unsuccessfully, and probably ruined the elbow in the process. With that being said where to get a new one? Possibly with a bung already welded in place? 😒🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 
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