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So with all the talk about going bigger brakes and such, then I see these rotors that look more at home on a mountain bike..
Is that for the 1320 only? Can't see those offer better braking performance over even 3kgt swaps. Or is it just enough for the track where you don't need 80-0 asap, whilst saving a ton of weight?


I bought a rockauto magnet using the 5% discount, first time I've remembered to in a while. Some closeout parts are coming with the magnet.
 
So with all the talk about going bigger brakes and such, then I see these rotors that look more at home on a mountain bike..
Is that for the 1320 only? Can't see those offer better braking performance over even 3kgt swaps. Or is it just enough for the track where you don't need 80-0 asap, whilst saving a ton of weight?


I bought a rockauto magnet using the 5% discount, first time I've remembered to in a while. Some closeout parts are coming with the magnet.
They're primarily for drag racing only, where every bit of weight counts. Some people do run them on the street but that's their call. They're sold as for offroad use only. These are dropping about 12lbs per side of rotational weight.
 
Told my buddy/ customer its time for my parts back. Last year in shootout scramble we found his injectors and ecu where bad. I loaned him the ecu, injectors, bov, and a line for catch can. Car is still in our shop but told him its time i get them back to fire my car up, its spring and mine has not ran sense September due to helping him. Ready to start my 30 miles for the year on my own car LOL.
 
Engine is almost finished. Just need to put on the crank and water pump pulley, alternator, ac compressor, thermostat housing and fuel rail. Getting in with ohms racing for an engine harness at the moment. @DSSA JNZ Tuning has been the man for me through this whole build for parts if anyone needs something.

Need to find some oem coil packs if someone has them
 
Turned biss screw in to get iscposition to 30, readjusted the tps, burped the coolant and tried to set base timing to 5° but with cas in the middle to start my timing was at like -5°?? Using a basic timing light. I put white out on the timing marks both on the cover and pulley to make it easier to see. If I lined them up to 5° car would idle high and idle surge so moved it to 0° and car seems slightly better than before. Do I have my crank pulley on wrong?? Didn’t have time to take a look at it.

After all that I let car warm up and brought deadtime down to get stft and ltft to 0.
 
Trying to clean these parts up before they go back on. I need to find some fine brushes for my dremel to get all the nooks and crannies. And I need to buy all new rubber.
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They fall apart quick at high speed but work well with a cordless drill.
 

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Cleaned at the intake manifold today. Seriously debating buying a cheap media blaster and powder coating gun for this project. Have not attempted to remove old gasket material yet.
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So on my journey through sorting out my wiring mess I realized that the IAT was never tapped into anything...it was zip tied to a hardline on the firewall that sits behind the brake master cylinder. I mean the car started and idled okay when it did run (aside from the other major issues) but it was just reading the outside air temp, not the air being fed into the intake. So with that, where should I tap this thing? I was thinking in the pipe that couples up to the throttle body and doing it right before the couple itself, that way it reads the air right before it gets sucked into the throttle body. Only concern is if the turbulence of the air flow will alter readings from the sensor.

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My mrc upgraded 1 wire alternator..

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I personally would appreciate a nice new detailed write up on how to implement/install this. Or is it really so simple it doesn’t require one? Which output did you get?
 
I purchased an OEM passenger side crossmember/north-south bar/whatever the f*** its called(it attaches to the core support, runs under the transmission, and bolts to the body) awhile back and it's a rusty, greasy UNIT baby.

Well, finally got a little freetime so I degreased it, washed it, wire-wheeled all the rust, leftover pockets of grease, and bad paint off it, washed/degreased it again, and wiped it down with alcohol. There's no good place at work to paint it I don't think, so I'll do all that tomorrow or this weekend some time. Will post before/after pics too, but already it looks so much better.
 
Not a damn thing. Still a tad too cold. Don't have a press for doing bushings even if I wanted to, which I don't, and I don't want to break plastic interior bits swapping out the center console because it's only 8-9C. Plus rain, so that makes it super damp and bone chilling.

This weekend looks nice. Now if I can just get my engine bits back I can start final cleaning, painting, and assembly.

160 amp haven't hooked it up yet. Nice they are in Michigan ill.do a write up on it really soon it just came today.
160A? Are you trying to reignite a dying star?
 
Pulled the wheels and the axles. Drained the trans too. Now all that's left is pulling the t-case and dropping the trans for HOPEFULLY the last time.


Although IDK if it's normal or not, but I swear my MT90 has a couple congealed spots. There's no metal in it, fluid is clear AF, but when pouring it from the half-cut milk jug into a sealed container there was a couple "clumps" of something that looked like jello or snot. Normal or nah? Kinda weird.
 
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