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Holset Turbos, PART 2

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The Mod I am reffering to plugs the hole on the bottom of the CBV, then drill another hole on the side that intersects the hole from the bottom.(Drill the hole on the flat portion of the CBV with the writing and mitsu emblem on it) I beliebe you can drill about a 1/16" hole. And just let that hole open to atmosphere. I have done it to several 1G valves, and it works excellent. Do not "crush" the valve.

Actually, I see in your mods list you have a MAF-T. Just get a Tial BOV and be done with it. I would actually get one of the Ebay knock off Tials. They are like $100. I knew of a couple people that tested those against actual Tial valves, as well as the wastegates. The took them apart, did measurments, and tested them on the same vehicles. The knock offs were exact matches.
 
Dave you were decsribing the VFAQ mod. How does that one blow off without a vacuum signal to the bottom or does atmospheric allow it to release but slower? It's early and I can be thick in the best part of the day! Tial. I have heard about a new Forge valve that I am looking into. Mark
PS: I got the AGP billet actuator on and will try that today. mark
 
The mod works perfect. The valve still actuates very quickly. The Tial is the best valve on the planet, period. I have also looked at the Forge units. They look very promising. The constructiona nd operation are very much like the Tial. I also like the "tuning" kit they provide, which lets you change spring and shims. you should be able to tailor the valve to your setup.
 
The 1G BOV "dodgemod" is actually pretty damn cool. It is required that you start the modification to a "virgin" 1g BOV. It can't be crushed with a vice and then this mod performed with the same expectations.

By plugging the hole on the bottom, boost pressure presses the valve into the closed position, manifold vacuum/boost is fed to the top of the bov to equalize and when there is a pressure drop between the boost source on the manifold and the BOV it will open.


I have pressure checked my modded 1G BOV to 25psi with no leakage.


Best bang for the buck BOV on the planet.


gsxtacy
 
Well I had the Holset running very good on a rough tune at 19PSI when a coupler blew and that causde my timing belt to jump 6 teeth because I found the belt was damaged. That's a part of this. I had removed the cam gear cover to remove the valve cover last week to check out the valve train. Well a bushibg in that gear cover fell out and apparently ended in the timing belt area and got lodged damaging the belt. Then at 19PSI a coupler blew, the only one not converted to silicone!! That must have caused the weakened belt to jump. Now I do not know what to do. i posted on the engine forum this story for info. If it's only the head I can send it out to be rebuilt. How about pistons/bearings, if they are damaged it becomes much more difficult.
Staying with this thread the holset was running great. With a tune and 5 lbs. more boost it would have been awesome! Now the future is bleak. Definetly like this turbo and will talk to David Buschur tomorrow as it is a new motor!! less thsan 1k miles. Mark
 
owch... that hurts sorry to hear that sweet. i hope you get back on the road soon. good luck.
 
Good news! Just need new exhaust valves and guides and timing belt and back on the road, perhaps by mid month. Then I will try to get the Holset up to 23 psi or so. Guess I will try nthe 1G BOV mod or check out the Forge unit. Mark
 
These holsets are getting me a little intrested. It seems that they compare well against 50 and 60 trims?

I have a question. If I were to pull say an HX35 from a dodge cummins would I just be able to throw on a bullseye housing to make it fit my car? Or do they not utilize the stock turbine wheel?
 
ZenkaiRacerDsM said:
These holsets are getting me a little intrested. It seems that they compare well against 50 and 60 trims?

I have a question. If I were to pull say an HX35 from a dodge cummins would I just be able to throw on a bullseye housing to make it fit my car? Or do they not utilize the stock turbine wheel?

That is where most people find their hx35's. So yes, it will work.
 
sweet97 said:
Well I had the Holset running very good on a rough tune at 19PSI when a coupler blew and that causde my timing belt to jump 6 teeth because I found the belt was damaged. That's a part of this. I had removed the cam gear cover to remove the valve cover last week to check out the valve train. Well a bushibg in that gear cover fell out and apparently ended in the timing belt area and got lodged damaging the belt. Then at 19PSI a coupler blew, the only one not converted to silicone!! That must have caused the weakened belt to jump. Now I do not know what to do. i posted on the engine forum this story for info. If it's only the head I can send it out to be rebuilt. How about pistons/bearings, if they are damaged it becomes much more difficult.
Staying with this thread the holset was running great. With a tune and 5 lbs. more boost it would have been awesome! Now the future is bleak. Definetly like this turbo and will talk to David Buschur tomorrow as it is a new motor!! less thsan 1k miles. Mark

That's a shame to hear, but I still am looking forward to the results on your car with this turbo. Once those few items are fixed and that 2.25" resonator is gone. Some good gas, 25 PSI and a tune should make your car an animal.
 
joeracer321 said:
That's a shame to hear, but I still am looking forward to the results on your car with this turbo. Once those few items are fixed and that 2.25" resonator is gone. Some good gas, 25 PSI and a tune should make your car an animal.

Yeah, Joshua it was a real shock for a day but I kept in perspective through faith. Since it only needs exhaust valves and guides along with a new belt I expect to be driving again mid August.
I have to say at 19PSI it was pulling harder than the 60-1 ever did. It was blowing out the BOV over 20 psi. I'm sticking with the Holset and will use the 60-1 for a spare should I need one.
The Holset wheels spin very smoothly compared to the 60-1 CHRA. I'll be back to update when I am back in the saddle. Mark
 
sweet97 said:
I have to say at 19PSI it was pulling harder than the 60-1 ever did. It was blowing out the BOV over 20 psi. I'm sticking with the Holset and will use the 60-1 for a spare should I need one.

So the holset spools up at 4500, when did your 60-1 hit full boost?
 
The 60-1 was closer to 4100/4200 but I had only just got the Holset to run below the BOV's release pressure and no fine tuning had been done. The Holset may end up being 300 rpm's slower but that is negligable as far as I am concerned. Consider the Holset is capable of 10-13 lbs./min more and it's a fair trade off. Not that I will ever get to it's limit!! I do not track race so launching is not a concern and I have a 5 level stutterstep launch available should I want to use it. Add the durability I am reading about the holset and it's the one I am going with. Besides I've had an EVO 16G, 50 trim, 60-1 and now the Holset, ENOUGH!
Like joeracer321 said get it to 25 psi and remove my restrictive resonator and ...Hold on! Mark
 
sweet97 said:
The 60-1 was closer to 4100/4200 but I had only just got the Holset to run below the BOV's release pressure and no fine tuning had been done. The Holset may end up being 300 rpm's slower but that is negligable as far as I am concerned. Consider the Holset is capable of 10-13 lbs./min more and it's a fair trade off. Not that I will ever get to it's limit!! I do not track race so launching is not a concern and I have a 5 level stutterstep launch available should I want to use it. Add the durability I am reading about the holset and it's the one I am going with. Besides I've had an EVO 16G, 50 trim, 60-1 and now the Holset, ENOUGH!
Like joeracer321 said get it to 25 psi and remove my restrictive resonator and ...Hold on! Mark
So your HX40 hybrid is a lot faster than you 60-1 with the same boost?
 
This is too subjective to answer correctly. My personal opiniion and that of a friend is that the HX35/40 is more powerful at 19psi than the 60-1 was at 22/23 psi but until I get the motor running again and get some numbers I cannot give you objective answers. Quality and durability are VERY important in this turbo choice also, so consider that. Mark
 
You all might remember me from the 1st threed. I have the bullseye housing which I would recomend you not get if you're looking for top end power. IT does see 22 in 3rd at around 3800 RPM 2.0 Liter stock bottom end. I personally don't like this turbo under 15 PSI as it just doesn't feel all that strong until I see about 15 PSI. @ 25 PSI it's a montster. I used pocket dyno on a good ACT 2600 Clutch so no slippage and got a decent consastant 325 WHP @ 19 PSI. Most of my mods are in my profile.

I just purchased a 44mm Tial Wastegate and should finally be able to use my EBC and run 15 PSI during DD and get a good tune and run 30 PSI at the track.

I got raped on a motor and other parts and now am having to build another motor. I'm going for 9:1 Static CR. I'm also looking to run the T4 HX-40 or H1E with it's smallest stock TH. The turbo does surge a bit at low boost like when I hit 10 PSI and slightly let off it will surge a bit. Nothing that is going to hurt anything. When I'm pushing 25 PSI I also hear a slight stall which I think is caused by my 1G BOV being to small. I have it modded and it holds pressure up to 30 PSI but it leaks under vaccume. Had to go with the MAF-T for that very reason. I was running a 3" intake and decided to go with the FP 4" intake and I did notice a slight gain in spool up but it might have been like 100 RPMs for me.

Some of my experiences and opinions are slightly squeed cause I'm really beating up a 130K mile motor running so much boost. My AFR is at 10.8:1 and timing is at 15* at 7000 RPMS and up. I'm almost positive that with cams and C16 you can push 30-35 PSI with a 12:1 AFR and 18-20* of advance and see around 550 WhP with this thing. Maybe more. I don't have the motor to try that out. It's strarting to burn some oil now so I'm going to kept the boost between 15-20 PSI until I can get my new motor built which I hope to be in the next few months.
 
So what is the deal with the HX35 dyno on bullseye's website it hits full boost around 4500-4600rpm and made 494whp on 25-26 psi and everyone on here is getting full boost at 3800-3900. Now we are talking about stock motors vs built ones with cams ported heads and smim but does lag add up that much from all that?
 
My built 2.0 with ported head and HKS 272's spools the HX-35/40 at 4500RPM's. I believe most would say near than range with maglin getting full boost by 3800. Joeracer321 has a 2.3 and his HX-40 spools at 4200. A few extra rpm's really doesn't make that much difference and the Holset is flowing more volume at say 18 psi than a 50 trim at the same boost. Mark
 
sweet97 said:
My built 2.0 with ported head and HKS 272's spools the HX-35/40 at 4500RPM's. I believe most would say near than range with maglin getting full boost by 3800. Joeracer321 has a 2.3 and his HX-40 spools at 4200. A few extra rpm's really doesn't make that much difference and the Holset is flowing more volume at say 18 psi than a 50 trim at the same boost. Mark
ok he was just saying that it spooled to fast but it looks like with all the supporting mods it spools around where it should. Has anyone made any big power with these turbine housings? (550-600whp)
 
Check out part 1 of this thread back a page or so. Dave from Bullseye posted a dyno run from a customer using the bullseye turbine housing making 500+ HP. Mark
PS: At 20 psi but he "has every mod under the sun".
 
GSX4LIFE said:
The mod works perfect. The valve still actuates very quickly. The Tial is the best valve on the planet, period. I have also looked at the Forge units. They look very promising. The constructiona nd operation are very much like the Tial. I also like the "tuning" kit they provide, which lets you change spring and shims. you should be able to tailor the valve to your setup.
got a link to the Forge units? I know they make good replacement vw/audi valves and a direct fit 2G but what do they have for a 1G flange?
 
Thanks for the link to the Forge as I oredered one yesterday without seeing what it looked like. Took a recommendation from joeracer321 that it would handle the Holset and bolt in place of my 1g BOV, what could be better, bling value too! Mark
 
The Forge Unit looks nice. I was going to go with a Tial BOV. I forgot that big cams increase spool up. I kept almost getting cams but end up getting something else that I think I need more like the MAFT and now my Tial wastegate. I'm going to build my forged motor next and I'll kept my setup as is and see how a higher CR motor with a ported head and CAMS will effect my spool up. If it drops to 4200-4400 I'll be happy and probably kept the bullseye TH on it.

But a new BOV is definitly necessary for the HX-35. Like I said before. I have a stutterbox and get about 10 PSI at 5000 RPMs sitting still. When I slam the throttle shut so much air came out of the BOV it was unreal. When it does blow off it will blow off for almost 3-4 seconds.

So is the Forge BOV that much bigger than the 1G BOV? I had the stock 1G BOV flange welded to a small section of 2.5" steel pipe. I was planning on get either the Tial or SSQV and get the alum. flange so I can match that pipe with the rest of my IC piping.

I've been debating on installing my HX-35 Turbine Wheel to my H1E CHRA. Anyone around here using a HX-40/35 hybrid? How do you like it? Is compresure surge more of an issue at low boost part throttle? I don't really want to send the money to balance the Hybrid and then have to reblance the HX-35 cause I have to go back to it.
 
GREperformance assured me the Forge would handle the Holset HX-35/40 I have. I had surge with my 60-1 until I got the head ported with HKS 272's, now no surge even with the 35/40 hybrid. Mark
 
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