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Some custom SS work I have been doing

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viperlp01

15+ Year Contributor
2,518
80
Oct 9, 2006
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Hey guys. I have been doing some custom exhaust work recently and I got a new camera on black friday so I have been taking some pictures.

First is some custom exhaust work I did for a customer. He has a newer Subaru Legacy. All 3 in SS mandrel bent piping.

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Next I have a custom o2 housing a guy wanted made for his FP3052. FP does not offer a recirculated o2 housing so I am trying to make it work. I understand now why they won't offer one. I might have to integrate the recirc'd tube into the down pipe.

I made a jig for the location of the stock downpipe. I used the exhaust brace and welded washers and 1/4 car stock to get the correct location.

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Starting the fab part of it. I used a 120* mandrel bent 2.5in SS piece. I had to take some material off it to make the bend.

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And the last one for this post is a guy that bought the 17cm^2 housing for his new holset build. He wanted a 3in v band welded onto the exit.

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Looks good man. On the o2 housing you could do what jmfab does and incorporate a tight radius bend and come in half way where the 2 pieces meet. At least this is the concept I would do. As its nicer and gets them gases out sooner,
If you did put it into the DP then do it with another v-band for easy disconnect. Welds look good but you got no close up's???

Good work though buddy.
 
This is a long distance type deal so I might need him to send in the DP. If he does I will try to talk him into vbands but I already made it a 2 bolt exit. I see how JMF does it but they are using a stock dsm flange and not vbands. Ill take some close up pictures.
 
I've always found it easier to just pie cut the o2 housing rather then using the tight bends. And a plus side of pie cutting is that you keep a true 2.5-3" ID unlike the tight bends that oval out. Here is a picture of my old o2 housing a made awhile ago.
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I might pie cut the recircd part. I see that as the only way to keep the recirc within the o2 housing itself.
 
Lookin good, John. :thumb:

I've always found it easier to just pie cut the o2 housing rather then using the tight bends. And a plus side of pie cutting is that you keep a true 2.5-3" ID unlike the tight bends that oval out. Here is a picture of my old o2 housing a made awhile ago.
Even better - donuts.
Tight radius while maintaining the same area and shape, and no need to 'cheat' any cuts. Only drawback is that they're expensive as hell.

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Paul..That thing there that steps up the diameter is called a donut?

Do those things work great..I seen one on DP/o2 housing hybred I was thinking about ordering, but I've never seen one before...
 
This is a long distance type deal so I might need him to send in the DP. If he does I will try to talk him into vbands but I already made it a 2 bolt exit. I see how JMF does it but they are using a stock dsm flange and not vbands. Ill take some close up pictures.

Yes but you can still weld in the dump tube to the housing and still use the v-band on the WG exit! The only difficult part would be getting the dump tube to flow nicely in to the 2.5" housing section. It should be pretty simple though. The 2 bolt flange is fine that i wasn't worried about I was just saying if it has to be done to the DP then use the bands there as it won't be as bulky using 2 lots of 2 bolt flanges Lol.

Paul..That thing there that steps up the diameter is called a donut?

Do those things work great..I seen one on DP/o2 housing hybred I was thinking about ordering, but I've never seen one before...

No a donut is a full circle pipe for really tight bends! The step up is basicly what its called or its called a reducer but turned the other way it has the reflecting effect to expand the exit.

I've always found it easier to just pie cut the o2 housing rather then using the tight bends. And a plus side of pie cutting is that you keep a true 2.5-3" ID unlike the tight bends that oval out. Here is a picture of my old o2 housing a made awhile ago.

The only problem with this is to get it done correctly you need to purge it while welding it. Other wise it will either not penetrate properly or you could have excessive weld go through and you want it as smooth as poss. Granted it might not make much difference but if you take more time doing pie cuts then why not purge it and do a 100% job and not 95%.
 
Paul..That thing there that steps up the diameter is called a donut?
The donut is the bend portion attached to the turbine housing. This is what it looked like before I cut into it:

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The cone thingy is called a concentric reducer. The one in the pic is a 2.5" to 3".
 

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Dam that looks pretty good John. Do you think you could recirculate my dump tube into my DP when I come there for the shootout? Pretty much just need a flex section install in the current pipe I have and find a way to cut a hole into the current DP and weld it to it.
 
The donut is the bend portion attached to the turbine housing. This is what it looked like before I cut into it:

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The cone thingy is called a concentric reducer. The one in the pic is a 2.5" to 3".

You don't happen to have any pictures of the cutting of said donut..Or one after to make that peice with the clamp around it...It's kinda interesting..Which is why I ask..
 

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Lookin good, John. :thumb:


Even better - donuts.
Tight radius while maintaining the same area and shape, and no need to 'cheat' any cuts. Only drawback is that they're expensive as hell.

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You are right a doughnut is nice but the price ain't LOL. I use scarp bends to get my pie cuts from so that's why i choose that method. I had no materiel then maybe i would buy a doughnut.
 

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Ya guys please keep it to ideas and comments. Not trying to sell anything but share some fabrication ideas and pictures.

I did this test pipe for Allens EVO 10 the other day. I did two evo 10 test pipes the same weekend so some of the pics could be mixed up.

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This is the manifold I made for my TSI. I sold it to a friend with a 1g so I am going to make him a new side exit. Luckily the Garret is thinner I guess you would say so I have more room to run the exhaust.

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When it comes to anything to do with fabrication, its amazing how CRITICAL it is to have a tight fit on every joint. It looks better, welds easier, and because the weld will be without a doubt better, is also stronger
 

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I finished the o2 housing over the weekend. I hope the customer is happy with it. I tried to prevent a 90* entry into the o2 housing so I almost have to cut into my first weld for the 2 bolt flange.

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Welds are decent. I need some practice on notching. That took the longest was getting the entry right into the o2 housing.
 

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Pretty decent work and Welds there. That's a tight angle on the re-circ tube I now see the problem it looked a lot bigger in the pics. There is another way that could possibly work but as you've done it that's cool. Looks amazing. I'm going to built me a new manifold next year nothing like your forward facing one though. Keep it up buddy and you will weld so good you could do it in your sleep Lol.
 
Thanks guys. Next projects are most likely going to be out of chromoly. I need to find some time to work on my own stuff. I need to build my cage, build my tubular rear sub, build my manifold(s), and make my exhaust along with a bunch of other stuff LOL.. Big list but sounds fun.
 
Very nice work John. if you don't have one you might want to pick up a belt sander to make fine tuning the angles a little easier. just a thought from personal expierence. your work looks really good.
 
Make yourself a notching Jig. All u need is a drill press, some hole saws and a piece of angle iron and a couple clamps. A couple pieces of L shaped steel makes it easier tho. make an arm to come off your drill press base, then make an upward rod. put an L brace off that to make a base. you can make it large enough to accept 2 bolts and be able to set angles even. Use another longer piece of L shaped material and bolt that to your adjustable base. Use a worm clamp big enough to go around your pipe and the L material to steady the materials, then u can use your drill press to make precision cuts without the materials walking while your cutting it. I have done that for both round tube on cages and square tube as well. It helps greatly with notching and getting nice fish mouth cuts made to have perfect mating surfaces to weld em. then a drum sander to clean em up nicely afterwards.

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thats a half assed idea of what im talking about. And you can make it for under 20bux normally. And if you have scrap layin around, maybe even less. I prefer square tube for the base and verticle bars for stability, then some L shaped aluminum will work for the place to rest the materials. Or whatever u have L shaped to cradle round stock and make sure it doesnt move.
 

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