The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Lets see some custom air ducting

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

no man i get that the goal is to duct the air to cool the radiator and fmic, but what about your manifold heat and trbo exhaust housing, external wastegate dumping and such? and what i was saying was engine BAY temps not actual engine temps cause thats what i thought the OP was saying.

From my understanding he was asking how to get the air in the bay cooler. He said he wasnt having over heating problems so i assumed he wasnt focusing on lowering the coolent temps themselves. when i saw "air ducting" in the thread i figured soemthing like alot of people are doing through their headlights. or putting vents in the bumper and such. maybe the thread should have been "air ducting to lower iats and coolent temps"
i was thinking the bigger picture: the whole engine bay, not just the radiator and fmic. Obviously getting a colder engine bay will in turn give you colder engine FLUID temps... obviously.

plus, id hardly call adding weather stripping "custom fabrication"

it's alot easier to work with than sheetmetal and seals great :thumb:
 
Step one: Do not grasp the concept
Step 2: Ignore explanations
Step 3: Mock concept/methodology

Did I miss anything, folks?
 
Step one: Steal underpants
Step 2: ??????
Step 3: Profit!

Did I miss anything, folks?

Fixed.Allright that's enough joking around from me.I deleted the rest of my joking posts on this thread as long as this one stays.
 
Originally Posted by urbansmoker1

"plus, id hardly call adding weather stripping 'custom fabrication' "

it's alot easier to work with than sheetmetal and seals great :thumb:

The heat shield is 16 gauge sheetmetal from lowes I believe. Whatever gauge you can no longer bend with just your hands :p
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Underhood pics so we know what exactly is going on?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Underhood pics so we know what exactly is going on?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Cool air into NACA duct direct to air filter. More cool air thru hacked bumper to FMIC, oil cooler and radiator.

Hot air out vent over radiator, turbo, exhaust manifold.

Hot air and air pressure out kidney vents in rear of hood. These really pump hot air out more than the larger vent over the heat generating parts.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
So much of this thread cracks me up. So many people have no idea whats going on such as this guy above. How much resistance do you think the radiator actually creates? Do you really think all the air is going to fit through a small crack under the hood instead of being pulled by a fan through his core?

Air and fluid move the same, its easier to see fluid flow thats why it is referred to more often.

Unless you are overheating, ducting is not needed. In addition to ducting, both providing a larger inlet (modifying your bumper) and a larger outlet (modifying your hood) can help increase flow. Ducting is just easy and effective plus it doesnt need to change your oem look.
The absolute only thing you need to watch out for when making your own ducting, is that you dont seal up your cores so tight that your fan cannot pull enough air through in traffic. The more core your fan has to fight, the less air it will pull through.
 
So much of this thread cracks me up. So many people have no idea whats going on such as this guy above. How much resistance do you think the radiator actually creates? Do you really think all the air is going to fit through a small crack under the hood instead of being pulled by a fan through his core?

Air and fluid move the same, its easier to see fluid flow thats why it is referred to more often.

Unless you are overheating, ducting is not needed. In addition to ducting, both providing a larger inlet (modifying your bumper) and a larger outlet (modifying your hood) can help increase flow. Ducting is just easy and effective plus it doesnt need to change your oem look.
The absolute only thing you need to watch out for when making your own ducting, is that you dont seal up your cores so tight that your fan cannot pull enough air through in traffic. The more core your fan has to fight, the less air it will pull through.

I :pray: you aren't talking about me.

After a certain mph, the fans become a resistance anyway. Unless of course, the air has a path with least resistance.... then far before then the fans were inefficient.

Read entire thread. This isn't about overheating. It's more focused on under hood temps. Fluid doesn't float out your hood. Get back to the basics. Star gazer.
 
The fans aren't (or shouldn't be) operating while cruising or WOT. That's when a FMIC can cause issues. At those speeds a spinning fan would just create more resistance.

From the factory there are air ducts that force air through the radiator. You can't use the factory air scoop with a FMIC. No, you don't have to be pushing coolant onto the ground in order to need ducting. It's something the car came with from the factory for a reason and should be recreated once an intercooler is installed. Cooler is always better.
 
BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you all for the quick replies this will not only keep me busy but very good ideas.

Another point any worries with rain? I live in South Florida if anybodies been here theres about a 60% chance of rain on a daily basis almost imposible to even keep the whip clean for 2 days after a good wash.
 
I :pray: you aren't talking about me.

Yes you. I bet less air goes out from under my FMIC and radiator than yours. The secret to my success is the kidney vents in the rear. How do you let the air out of your engine compartment? Once its trapped in there it creates pressure inside so less air comes in thru the front.


Looks like you blew your allowance at Home Depot on car mods. Maybe you can check the clothes dryer isle for some brake ducting.

Wrapping your intercooler piping w/ exhaust wrap! Why don't pro-racers and shops do that? Why can't I find innercooler pipe wrap and sleaving for sale on the interweb? Because it make no sense. It is keeping the heat in your pipes, not allowing the pipes to radiate the heat out so future air is cooler. That wrap is for exhaust manifolds and headers. And it retains moisture and heat causing fatigue to the parts. OK for cast exhaust manifolds but not much anything else unless you are going to be routinely replacing.

Excessive ducting is in the way during maintenance. Vents, scoops and cowl hoods or hood spacers are better because they allow heat to escape when car is stopped or turned off.
 
Yes you. I bet less air goes out from under my FMIC and radiator than yours. The secret to my success is the kidney vents in the rear. How do you let the air out of your engine compartment? Once its trapped in there it creates pressure inside so less air comes in thru the front.


Looks like you blew your allowance at Home Depot on car mods. Maybe you can check the clothes dryer isle for some brake ducting.

Wrapping your intercooler piping w/ exhaust wrap! Why don't pro-racers and shops do that? Why can't I find innercooler pipe wrap and sleaving for sale on the interweb? Because it make no sense. It is keeping the heat in your pipes, not allowing the pipes to radiate the heat out so future air is cooler. That wrap is for exhaust manifolds and headers. And it retains moisture and heat causing fatigue to the parts. OK for cast exhaust manifolds but not much anything else unless you are going to be routinely replacing.

Excessive ducting is in the way during maintenance. Vents, scoops and cowl hoods or hood spacers are better because they allow heat to escape when car is stopped or turned off.

I feel as though you have me confused with someone else. Or maybe my car? :hmm:

Why do you heat wrap exhaust parts in the first place? Maybe to keep exhaust gases hot so they move faster?
Why would you be routinely replacing hard parts anyway?
Also "fatigue" what parts?
What is the fmic doing if it isn't cooling the air in the pipes?

Your lack of experience with heat wrapping as well as how air escapes the engine bay is apparent. At idle, cruise, or wot.
 
Not confused if you posted pics of your car on the first page.

Exhaust manifolds and headers are sometimes wrapped to help keep engine compartment temps lower and keep heat away from other parts. i prefer thermal coatings. The exhaust gases are going to flow based on the flow produced from the engine and not the temperature of the exhaust system.

Wrap headers and see how long they last. They'll crack was before unwrapped headers. They can't let the heat out so parts get way hotter and become brittle. But OK for cast exhaust manifolds which are so thick they won;t become brittle.

Routinely replace hard parts becuz racecar. To win, you are willing to spend $. Wrap your headers for cooler temps but know they'll crack sooner just like race engines last less than street engines.

FMIC cools air thru heat exchange. Pipes are just for getting it there but keeping pipes exposed allow them to cool thus keeping air inside cool.

Lets see, first time I heat wrapped was in the 1980s. How old were you then? Was producing twice the factory HP in a streetcar and forget how many times headers cracked. Know it was an odd # because I had one side left after I began leaving them naked again.

Were you driving in the 1990s? Here is a pic taken ~1992 of one of my cars back the w/ heat wrapped exhaust.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And a more recent pic without wrapped because I learned better.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Lets see, have codriven and prepped professionally built, no-expense-spared racecars for Mazda USA, Subaru Canada, Toyota Canada, Honda USA in over 100 races and Pikes Peak hillclimb. Never do I remember one have wrapped exhaust or intercooler piping including those that did have cooling issues in development.
 
Lets see, have codriven and prepped professionally built, no-expense-spared racecars for Mazda USA, Subaru Canada, Toyota Canada, Honda USA in over 100 races and Pikes Peak hillclimb. Never do I remember one have wrapped exhaust or intercooler piping including those that did have cooling issues in development.
What was their reason for not wrapping manifolds? I'm sure they had the resources to replace one if it cracked, but why leave it unwrapped if they're having heat issues?
 
My dad used to have a lancia scorpion..

Good eye. I've had 5.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This one I ducted air to intake and oil cooler w/ side scoops.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Ed1380 said:
What was their reason for not wrapping manifolds? I'm sure they had the resources to replace one if it cracked, but why leave it unwrapped if they're having heat issues?

Top 5 guesses why pro builders avoid wrap.

1. Wrapping hides them from inspection for cracking?

2. Asbestos stuff it made of has caught fire after being exposed to hot gases after a crack.

3. When it unravels for any reason it sux.

4. Its itchy.

5. Intercooler sprayers are more trick.
 
So much of this thread cracks me up. So many people have no idea whats going on such as this guy above.

Air and fluid move the same, its easier to see fluid flow thats why it is referred to more often.

Unless you are overheating, ducting is not needed.

People, quick heat transfer lesson, AIR IS A FLUID. Wow I know, take a step back, let it sink in. Now let's move on.

Ducting is always a good idea because it will increase the efficiency of each heat transfer system, ie coolant, intercooler, oil cooler. You don't have to wait until you are on the side of the road because your car overheated to add some ducting. Just because you don't have a problem yet, doesn't mean you can't do it anyway. Anyone heard of preventative maintenance?
 
Hey quick q please Evo3Codriver,

The idea which pressure builds in the bay seems plausible so without cutting the hood, would adding washers to the hood support brackets help let hot air out and new air in through FMIC? In theory yes but does something like this make a noticeable improvement, or am I better off with air exiting through the bottom of the bay toward road

Thanks I've been considering this idea a while now :pray:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top