Lets talk Custom downpipes.

[99gst_racer]

Paul, please post pics of said downpipe and car.

I'll see if he'll let me snag a few pictures tomorrow afternoon.

 

[need2boostpsi]

might as well post up my downpipe, i bought this downpipe for partsHonda/Acura Performance Racing Products for International Sales from SSAutochrome Inc. then cut it all up and re welded to fit my Holset V-band outlet. came out a lot better than i thought it would have been.

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[1fastlaser]

^^^ Thats nice! Great idea there.

 

[need2boostpsi]

thanks, i had the MR downpipe cut at the flex pipe, and welded my new downpipe to fit up to it?

 

[diambo4life]

I guess I can post mine as well. This was made by a local friend of mine. 3" straight off the turbo with the alternator and oil filter housing at their stock locations. PS too.

 

[diambo4life]

...and how it all fits.

 

[need2boostpsi]

mike, where did you get your V-band fitting and V-band clamp? how is the seal?

 

[diambo4life]

ATP TURBO - The Premiere Provider of Turbocharging Components

You can also get them from our local shop --> Taliaferro Imports, Inc. . Just talk to Nick.

 

[need2boostpsi]

thanks, Im just trying to get everything sorted out and get my car to the track Saturday, My v-band flange warped on me so im going to have to get another one and re weld it on

 

[jdodds]

Thanks for the reply. I already have the Jays racing relocation kit, and as for the oil filter, and local guy in pa setup his 4" downpipe to fit with the normal oil filter housing, so im going to shoot for that. I use evo oil filters so it should fit, and be able to come off when oil changes are needed it. Im sure ill end up relocating it eventually.

The only thing with aluminized is that im wondering if the joints will start rusting. The v-bands are going to be stainless so i have to put that into consideration. Im not a professional welder, so i like personal opinions of guys that have done it.

Ok why a 4 inch downpipe? I was thinking of doing a 4 inch downpipe, and 3 1/2 after the v-band.

Why not just go with a forward facing oil filter housing off a mighty max? From the looks of mine, you could fit a pretty good sized downpipe in there with it.

 

[1fastlaser]

Why not just go with a forward facing oil filter housing off a mighty max? From the looks of mine, you could fit a pretty good sized downpipe in there with it.

I got it all together, and its been running. I didnt want to bypass running a oil cooler since i have no piston squirters in my motor to begin with, wanna keep the motor oil at a decent temp. Plus my turbular Front bar I think would be in the way. Oil filters easy to get off, and i changed the oil and it was no issue. Heres some pics. This was the first downpipe i ever made with a friend of mine. Next one im sure will be ALOT better.

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alittle video of a 26psi pull on pump gas

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laser+beam+pulls

 

[99gst_racer]

Made another provision to mine:
(for the electric cut-out)

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[Burnett03]

Care to explain how you guys know what angles to cut the pipes, what you started out with, what you use to cut it, etc?

 

[1fastlaser]

Alot of it is just cutting some 10 degree and 15 degree cuts, and holding them together till it looks good. I used mostly 10 degree cuts. You use a chop saw and can set the degree of the angle before you cut. 10 degree cuts make more of a round turn then L's. You want it to be smooth and not abrupt, like it was ment to bend like that.

It takes time, alot of cutting, grinding, and fitting. It kinda falls together, and im sure the next one I make will turn out even better. Im happy this one works, clears everything, and the oil filter still comes off with no trouble. Its acually pretty rewarding.

 

[turboglenn]

Alot of it is just cutting some 10 degree and 15 degree cuts, and holding them together till it looks good. I used mostly 10 degree cuts. You use a chop saw and can set the degree of the angle before you cut. 10 degree cuts make more of a round turn then L's. You want it to be smooth and not abrupt, like it was ment to bend like that.

It takes time, alot of cutting, grinding, and fitting. It kinda falls together, and im sure the next one I make will turn out even better. Im happy this one works, clears everything, and the oil filter still comes off with no trouble. Its acually pretty rewarding.

Exactly, Cut a whole bunch of "cheese wedges" before even starting on the DP and make them all thin like the ones in the pics above, then you can make longer ones when needed during the build, but it helps to cut, debur and prep the wedges for welding prior to starting or you'll have a lot of hours of climbing in and out from under the car to test fit each piece...

Another thing to do is to mark a line (actually 2) on the pipe or weld 2 tabs that will keep it from rolling and allow you to make sure that each cut is aligned on the same axis (but 180* out) to the previous one or your DP will have a zig-zag in it's bend. if you can't put a tab on it put a line on it to line up with something fixed ( i use the edge of the clamp on the chop saw) Now, as for the 2 tabs or lines..make them 180 degrees apart because you have to rotate the pipe 180* for the 2nd cut of each wedge ...you'll see why when you make the cuts, if ya don't rotate it you'll get another zig-zag or re-weld a straight pipe out of it

 

[Burnett03]

Awesome thanks guys