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Seems like it. What turbo?
57 trim Garret T04E but with a S compressor housing (4” in 2.5” out), billet compressor wheel and T3 .63 exhaust housing with a 3” bumper exit. I wasn’t paying attention to the boost gauge or cluster was just giving it the beans a bit in 3rd I think

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I got mine partially taken apart. Turbo/Mani is off, lines, hoses, radiator, PS pump all off. More work tomorrow, if my body says "You can Do It!". :)

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I wanted to have fun, so took the 1g out for a spin. The fuel pump suddenly stopped building the fuel pressure and started to be loud. It builds only 0 to 10 psi max once it gets louder. It took so long but fortunately I could get home without towing by cooling down the pump every few mins. It needs to be sent for repair🤦‍♂️
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Did something I’ve been dreading for months.

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Added new hood pins because the old ones are in an impossible spot to reuse. Tried to make them fit into something resembling a pattern, but most importantly they’ll keep the hood from ripping out of the hood latch and slamming into the roof.
 

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I wanted to have fun, so took the 1g out for a spin. The fuel pump suddenly stopped building the fuel pressure and started to be loud. It builds only 0 to 10 psi max once it gets louder. It took so long but fortunately I could get home without towing by cooling down the pump every few mins. It needs to be sent for repair🤦‍♂️
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Are those two in-line externally mounted fuel pumps? If so...I could use some help with getting my setup properly wired as opposed to the janky in the center console fast and furious switches that keep them running full blast
 
Are those two in-line externally mounted fuel pumps? If so...I could use some help with getting my setup properly wired as opposed to the janky in the center console fast and furious switches that keep them running full blast
Only one pump. The pump is the middle one. And it has pre and post pump filter.
 
Took the car out to see if the o-ring solved the big boost leak and if I'm reading this log correct, the car was making 18psi at 4300rpms???

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You need to post a log to see what's going on. Also that was after a a semi pull since your tps never reached 100%
 
Nutin fancy or go fast parts. Just getting the rust knocked off these interior brackets and a fresh coat of paint while I have it taken apart.

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I think I started easing into it around 104 secs. Wasn't sure how the car was going to react and just on Evo8 fuel/timing maps.
Even while reviewing the short log your tps volts never reached 5V which is telling me your either not fully flooring it or your tps isn't calibrated. 2nd in the portion of the long that you were at 95% throttle at 4300 rpm you were at 14.8psi but your AFR EST and Wideband are off by a good margin and your A/F was over 12 at one point. I would suggest having someone tune the car.
 
I brought a old stroker crank i had laying around to the machine shop to get checked out. No good unfortunately it needs to be cut so my idea of building a stroker might be out the window LOL. Also got to see my friend who i don't get to see to often. His color on his car in daylight just looks amazing.

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I bought a old stroker crank i had laying around to the machine shop to get checked out. No good unfortunately it needs to be cut so my idea of building a stroker might be out the window LOL. Also got to see my friend who i don't get to see to often. His color on his car in daylight just looks amazing.

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Eh, cut it. Plenty of people in the modern DSM world run cut cranks and find out they're still strong AF. The old 20 year mindset of "if its cut its fragile as glass" has been disproven, at least to me.
 
Eh, cut it. Plenty of people in the modern DSM world run cut cranks and find out they're still strong AF. The old 20 year mindset of "if its cut its fragile as glass" has been disproven, at least to me.
Yeah cut cranks are fine but the cost of having it x rayed then cut is over half the cost of a new crank. Plus my machinist doesn't have the tools for cutting cranks he sends that stuff out. I could order a crank tonight from extreme psi and it would be at my machiest by thursday. Piece of mind and not having to wait for a 3rd party. Each is own.
I ran a cut crank for about a decade, though not of any means of massive power (half it's life under 300bhp, the rest under 400bhp). Still have it on the shelf, not getting rid of it any time soon.
Most of my builds are around 500-600. Just peace of mind considering the cost of everything else that needs to be ordered still and machining cost.
 
Friend puts down 566awhp on his 30r/2.4 combo with his cut crank. Cost him like $150 or so to have it done locally to him. Been making this power for years too.


Location and costs vary I guess.
Though we rarely will use a cut crank I did build a 6 bolt 6 years ago we did a 10/10 cut on and it’s still living around 500whp. I have not tried a cut one in a bigger power build as it made me nervous.
 
Started prepping a spare 300m t-case for this summer

Blasted the outside and straight out of the ultrasonic cleaner

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And after some powder on the cast iron

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Fixed my pop-up again. Lol. After I cut the plug like an idiot being over-exuberant with my new cutoff wheel.


But they work again as they should. Also learned a valuable lesson about cutoff wheels/grinders and tight spaces. Also learned a valuable lesson on how the headlight motor/ISC motor/Resistor pack plugs suck to de-pin. Seriously don't bother, I tried everything and ended up just having to cut the plug apart to get the pins out and repin the new connector with them. Huge PITA. 0/10, do not recommend. Lol.

But, it was a success, and she now closes both eyes instead of winking at you.
 
Began finishing touches on the "GSR-4"

Added my custom electronic PUSSI (push-button uptime surge system-I) (Sans-FIAV. LOVE IT) It opens a NC 12v air valve to create a vacuum leak, causing the idle to surge and does not allow the engine to stall when warming the engine up stone cold. This is perfect for those who have a fully deleted FIAV. One less thing to have to mess around with in Link!

Made a DIY gusset using eye links until I get an OEM one.

Got code 0024 speed sensor malfunction again. Replaced the reed switch on the gauge assembly itself and it fixed it. Thank god I have like 5 spare clusters.

Stocked up on boost juice.

Installed new faux carbon side trim

Resealed the valve cover

Gathered parts for my revised side exit cutout
 
Spent hours trying to get the ECMlink to work. I bought a cheap laptop from Walmart with high hopes. Ended up frustrated but tomorrow afternoon I'll get back to it.
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I had the same issue. Ended up sending the cable and ECU in and it was something with the ECU. They fixed a bunch of small stuff and shipped it out ASAP. Highly recommend sending it in to the pros at ECMTuning.
 
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