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No, I'd say in total less than 50% of the circumference. Basically from one oil hole to the other.


Considering upper shells are grooved and the lowers have a wide radial chamfer around the oiling holes, Im just struggling to see how this could cause a premature failure down the road, with facts only and not conjecture. The amount of flat bearing shell the scratch is inline with is, what, an inch of diameter?

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I'm sure it will be fine honestly. Chances are it won't cause a shear and there are no stress concentration points on a cylinder plus the oil hole can help with additional displacement I'm sure
 
I'm thinking the same: it's very, very close to the oiling holes, the bearings themselves are creating a large oil "reservoir" by their designs directly adjacent to the scratch, and it's on the #1 main -- the most flow straight off the oil filter goes to that exact bearing (as I have no balance shafts).
I really want to avoid cutting the entire crank for one single scratch.

This is a lesson to all: take detailed pictures of everything important before you hand it to a shop. I lost trust in one of the two that have handled this crank, and they both did rotatey things to it.
The whole engine was also through a stock-style rebuild back where the car came from many years ago, so it could have even happened back then. It's bugging the hell out of me to know know where/when this occurred.
 
I'm thinking the same: it's very, very close to the oiling holes, the bearings themselves are creating a large oil "reservoir" by their designs directly adjacent to the scratch, and it's on the #1 main -- the most flow straight off the oil filter goes to that exact bearing (as I have no balance shafts).
I really want to avoid cutting the entire crank for one single scratch.

This is a lesson to all: take detailed pictures of everything important before you hand it to a shop. I lost trust in one of the two that have handled this crank, and they both did rotatey things to it.
The whole engine was also through a stock-style rebuild back where the car came from many years ago, so it could have even happened back then. It's bugging the hell out of me to know know where/when this occurred.
Yeah man it's very hard for me to hand stuff over to people. Only time I let someone touch stuff is if there is no way for me to do it myself and even then I research pretty heavily on a shop's/servicer's reputation. Very good point made though with the taking pictures for accountability! It definitely sucks but don't let it hinder your build man. It will all work out, just gotta take some time on it to clear out your mind then hit back up
 
Started the powertrain swap. Didn't get very far. One pair of motor mount holes in the block were rusted SUPER BAD. I worked and worked just to get bolts to finally go all the way in (or far enough). After that, it was too humid to work so I called it. I had planned on getting the flywheel and clutch all swapped but others things got in the way.
I forgot to remove the LAST bolt on the inspection cover and fkd it up removing the transmission, but I bent it all back into shape and have spares. 🙄

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Just want to be sure but the mounts you have on your block for a six bolt look like the ones I have on my Trans for a 7 bolt...or am I'm messed up (or at least the last people who had this installed not me haha)

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Just want to be sure but the mounts you have on your block for a six bolt look like the ones I have on my Trans for a 7 bolt...or am I'm messed up (or at least the last people who had this installed not me haha)

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That isn't 6 or 7 bolt specific. It's 1g or 2g.
 
That isn't 6 or 7 bolt specific. It's 1g or 2g.
Ah okay I gotcha. That makes more sense, thank you! I double checked the 2g FSM just in case but all good haha. I had just never really noticed before until Marty posted that picture which was blaringly obvious where the mounts were on his 1g which was new to me
 
Bought a whole interior for 130$ to replace my crappy beige seats , decided to use some fabric paint on the carpet peices as this paint has held up great in my truck , I'll add I did like to small coats where the seats go because who's gonna know 🤷‍♂️ I thru my old carpet out two years ago when some mice decided to have a nest in my trunk , so it's gonna be nice to have some carpet back in as I'm done welding anything from the interior !

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You think this grease would be okay for reassembling my entire shifter? Haha

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Did a little tidying up and wired in my iat pigtail and installed the 4bar map sensor for speed density. The iat bung is getting welded on tomorrow. Also got my engine harness all connected and tucked away as best possible without doing an actual wire tuck 🤣🤣🤣🤷‍♂️

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Got a new alternator belt but cannot figure out why it's out of spec and won't tension even with the alternator maxed out

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Off topic but I'm assuming these bolt holes are for the manifold support bracket and I have no idea what this bracket is for

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That bracket is from a gate
Looking back on it I face palmed myself for that! (I'm cracking up pretty good haha) I should just delete it but I'll leave it up for everyone's enjoyment

Also, for general info, the oem belt size doesn't fit with the unorthodox racing crank pulley that I have on. Part number K040320 from Gates should fit. Will order and test it out.
 
Also, for general info, the oem belt size doesn't fit with the unorthodox racing crank pulley that I have on. Part number K040320 from Gates should fit. Will order and test it out.
If this “racing” pulley is just a lightweight pulley with no dampening capability I suggest ditching it for one that can.

-Daniel
 
The fluidamper harmonic balancer seems like a good replacement (not the entire kit that replaces the crank gear, I'm not doing anything that serious). How much longevity is actually gained with the price tag it demands though?

Does the under-drive on the alternator hinder performance of it? I imagine the voltage produced wouldn't be too different. I'm thinking in terms of the revolutions achieved with OEM size vs the undersized one
 
The fluidamper harmonic balancer seems like a good replacement (not the entire kit that replaces the crank gear, I'm not doing anything that serious). How much longevity is actually gained with the price tag it demands though?
The fluid damper is the one I bought and is on the shelf waiting for me to install. I would personally run a stock harmonic balancer before the lightweight pulley.

-Daniel
 
The fluid damper is the one I bought and is on the shelf waiting for me to install. I would personally run a stock harmonic balancer before the lightweight pulley.

-Daniel
I'll look into it and see if I can pick up one of the fluidamper. I mean it is kind of one of those parts you invest in and can run for the lifetime of a few cars haha. Thank you for the suggestion. I guess the belts not working out and this conversation was for a reason!
 
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