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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

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Sanded, a shot of auto buildup primer, four colour coats, three 1K clear coats, and she's no finally longer orange.. no idea the reason why it was before.
Next up, driver side, which is far, far more orange.
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Body definitely needs a polish but, really, the whole car needs a repaint. One thing at a time:
Build engine, repaint hood, fix wheels, repaint body.

Something satisfying about painting a lot of small parts, like the last few pieces of the puzzle you put down.

Dipstick, shifter assembly and more interior brackets stripped of rust and painted

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Anyone ever install the JNZ Tuning ABS delete kit? The upper left goes to the passenger side caliper line, I have the bottom left going to the front of the master cylinder, the bottom right line going to the back part of the master cylinder and the upper right one in my hand I thought went to the driver side brake caliper line but it's very very long and is too munch length for that location I feel.

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Based on length I feel like the bottom left and top right should be switched but I saw a dude install the STM kit (that has very similar fittings) in the order I have above so that's why I'm confused a little. Different brands warrants different fittings/styles but I don't think they would be that far off
 
Had the first failure of the year before the car even made it out of the garage LOL. Starter was drawing crazy amps and was too hot to even touch after 30 or so sec of cranking. Looks toasty inside, so I swapped it out for another used one and she fired right up for the first time this year and made it out of the garage for her first bath of the year.

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Coolant leak turned out to be a me problem. Didnt want to overtighten the bottom radiator-side clamp when I replaced the hose, so had a pretty good drip going, but stopped when i tightened it more... Easy win... on to testing the ISC.
 

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Abs delete kit installed and before/after of the rust remediation

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Disassembled my spare head, looks like it's barely ever been touched.

Was doing the oil port mod, which I've done a handful of times before without a problem.. working slowly.
Then the burr grabs. Ffffffffffffff
Really disappointed, I had a firm grip and braced myself but it still just caught the tip of the burr and 50ms later...

My only saving grace is the head measures out at 5.201-5.203 all four corners.
But my block went .006 they said was needed to clean it up.

I was thinking I'd use this one because it's virgin, but I guess the question now becomes how well can that bit be cleaned up without taking too much off.

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installed a new right rear wheel bearing..... but it was in my Lancer... so close to a dsm. Mitsubishi atleast. the newer Lancers are bolt in so that's nice.

Had the first failure of the year before the car even made it out of the garage LOL. Starter was drawing crazy amps and was too hot to even touch after 30 or so sec of cranking. Looks toasty inside, so I swapped it out for another used one and she fired right up for the first time this year and made it out of the garage for her first bath of the year.

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I've brought starters back to life by sanding the commutator with a high grade sandpaper, then greasing the end bearing and generally cleaning them well, as long as the brushes are still decent.
 
Two days late but I took the Talon to the local Father's Day show. Had many people stop and appreciate the car. Heard many stories of 'back in the day' LOL.

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Two days late but I took the Talon to the local Father's Day show. Had many people stop and appreciate the car. Heard many stories of 'back in the day' LOL.

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Everyone always “had one back in the day” and it always was like “just so fast”.

Cracks me up.
 
Disassembled my spare head, looks like it's barely ever been touched.

Was doing the oil port mod, which I've done a handful of times before without a problem.. working slowly.
Then the burr grabs. Ffffffffffffff
Really disappointed, I had a firm grip and braced myself but it still just caught the tip of the burr and 50ms later...

My only saving grace is the head measures out at 5.201-5.203 all four corners.
But my block went .006 they said was needed to clean it up.

I was thinking I'd use this one because it's virgin, but I guess the question now becomes how well can that bit be cleaned up without taking too much off.

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Nah, you'll be alright. Looks like they could clean it up when they square the head up. I wouldn't worry.
 
Everyone always “had one back in the day” and it always was like “just so fast”.

Cracks me up.

30 years from now people, I bet you the most common "barn find" is gonna be perfectly preserved DSMs still sitting on their original cinder blocks...from those same people who "had one back in the day"...that was "just so fast..." :p


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Removing more leftover a/c lines since i took the battery out to test the ISC.

Testing resistence results with a cheap and old multimeter):
1-2 41.1
2-3 41.0
4-5 40.9
5-6 41.3

Reason im checking it is because of a 2300 rpm cold start(drops to 1500 quickly within less than a minute, longer when its colder outside and then idles normally afterwards... along with hanging RPMs while shifting, only during moderate/hard acceleration, normal driving, its not noticeable/non-existant.. No boost leaks, checked by me and 2 others. Can an ISC still be bad if the coil numbers are consistent?
 

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So far today got the power wire ran from trunk to engine bay and all positive cables connected, and got breaker mounted. Still trying to figure out how to mount the battery though 🤔

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Painted the timing cover (bored), cowl and wiper arms were rusty so they got painted. Turned out decent actually
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Drove it. :) Had our quarterly in-service meeting so I drove it 15-20 mins one way to work, partly as a test, partly because I just wanted to drive it. Both was satisfying. Car doesn't overheat in traffic, with one working fan, in 95* temps(110* with heat index/humidity) at all, and actually actively cools down to mid-high 180's during cruising speeds/highway speeds. Aluminum radiator, stock heatshielding on everything that had it originally, and an OEM fan/fans is the trick. Every single DSM I have done with this combo, has no issues with overheating.


Car did awesomely on the drive too. Both there and back. It's got a few bucking issues(probably my fault/how I drive) and I'm honestly sure the 12+ year old Alternator is on its way out, but overall it didn't die. It didn't leave me stranded, it kept up with traffic, it made turbo noises. Very satisfied. From here is ironing out the idle/bucking issues, putting A/C back in it, and then once the clutch is broken in...turn the boost up. :D
 
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Went to Beaches cruise in again yesterday and to my absolute shock, another DSMer was there! Beautiful 1990 Talon with all working AC, CC, etc. Forgot his name because my memory is shit. But here are pix!

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Went to Beaches cruise in again yesterday and to my absolute shock, another DSMer was there! Beautiful 1990 Talon with all working AC, CC, etc. Forgot his name because my memory is shit. But here are pix!

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That's how I want mine to be. Putting A/C back in it, and eventually I'm gonna source a full CC setup.

I do find it funny that you both used the DEI gold wrap/heat insulator.
 
Doing this today to get it knocked out Finally. Have had this down pipe for a while but could never get the bolts out from the old one (seized). Finally decided f*** it I'm cutting them and replacing the bolts. No sound clips till it's all back together though. Also decoded I'm gonna dye my carpet. I washed it and It came out better than it was but still ugly so it gonna be black LOL

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