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Uneven bearing wear

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
As for the oil pump case, I can see and feel the scratch marks, but they dont seems to have lost much material, but I'm sure the clearance between the gear and the walls is important
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok, it should be a medium build, going for about 450whp, eventually might go up to 600, so yeah that sounds good. I'll be sure to watch it if I go with acl
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,393
932
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
I will probably have to go with acl unfortunately if I go with new, I just cant afford a new pump while I'm unemployed
Ok, it should be a medium build, going for about 450whp, eventually might go up to 600, so yeah that sounds good. I'll be sure to watch it if I go with acl
It's not about the oil pressure or horse power, it's about its production quality. The link below is what you should be careful with an aftermarket oil pump before installing. Even it's new, check if the gear cover sits its position correctly and all clearances are fine, if not, gears wouldn't spin smoothly and the gears would eat the case. If those are OK then it would work just fine. But of course Mitsubishi pump has the best quality.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/acl-pump-just-my-luck.529442/#post-153767374
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,393
932
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Hmm, it even says for low boost rebuilds an ACL, I might have to find some way to pay for an oem one, if I cant find a used one that is
It's not directly related. To engine speed, yes. I had run the ACL pumps without any issues. So from my experience, I would say it would be fine if you would be careful with what I said above.
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
695
267
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Just read the whole thread and definitely feel your pain and frustration. Congratulations on keeping a good attitude throughout, because that makes all the difference.

Treating these engines like race engines is very true. Tolerances and cleanliness cannot be overstated. Sadly, we’ve wrecked a few with incorrect or unclean assembly.

Did you initially use a thinner break in oil than the 20W? Did you change it after 500 miles? Our engines don’t typically need 20W, especially following a rebuild, unless there are tolerance issues or special driving conditions like high heat. The 20W will also give you higher oil pressures.

A quality 10W, like Joe Gibb’s, with a higher “good” zinc content, will help protect your bearing surfaces, while flowing well through the engine passages. There are endless opinions on here about brands of oil, so we only raise the question about the 20W weight choice.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,721
3,731
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I agree with @DogWhistle although I use this for breakin. It's 30 wt but is very good breakin oil and can be found on Amazon, (its where I picked mine up at).
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
I think I went with 20w50 because I had no balance shafts (I thought there was a second reason I would need thicker oil, but it's not coming to mind)
For break in, I used the cheapest 20w50 non synthetic I could find, and also a zinc additive that was recommended,
20 minutes of 3k rpm, change oil and filter, then 20 min drive, getting into boost and decel to seat rings,
Then onto valvoline VR1.
It was obviously to high pressure because the bearings were backwards, so I don't know what it would have looked like with them correct, I know I have at least one more thing of vr1 oil
(And thank you, means a lot, but I'm now making headway thankfully, also I'm glad you made it through the whole thread, I know its long)
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,721
3,731
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
As long as the rings seated, you can move to any synthetic oil. Just make sure they have sealed before switching or run non-synthetic for the first oil change period.
 

jed344

Supporting VIP
1,059
201
Jan 10, 2008
Waterville, Iowa
Likely the issues stem from bearings installed in wrong spot. The oil weight is decided based on what bearing clearances end up at. I thought it was said earlier his mains where .0025? That to me is 20w50 land.
 

RWD4G63

Proven Member
432
98
Dec 7, 2011
Paw Paw, Michigan
I think I went with 20w50 because I had no balance shafts (I thought there was a second reason I would need thicker oil, but it's not coming to mind)
For break in, I used the cheapest 20w50 non synthetic I could find, and also a zinc additive that was recommended,
20 minutes of 3k rpm, change oil and filter, then 20 min drive, getting into boost and decel to seat rings,
Then onto valvoline VR1.
It was obviously to high pressure because the bearings were backwards, so I don't know what it would have looked like with them correct, I know I have at least one more thing of vr1 oil
(And thank you, means a lot, but I'm now making headway thankfully, also I'm glad you made it through the whole thread, I know its long)

1. You need to chamfer the rod bearings. Eagle cranks have a larger filet on the rod journals, so the edges of the bearings need to be chamfered. This is why the other rod bearings look like that.
2. Plastigauge is not an accurate method of checking clearances in a high performance engine.
3. The first number in an oil weight has nothing to do with bearing clearances, because that is the winter weight. That is how it flows when it is cold (very cold). You can get away with 20w50 if you live in a warm climate, but otherwise you should look at something lower. Plenty of good companies make 5w50 or even 0w50. You can probably run a 5w40 or 5w50 with .0025" on the rods. That'll flow faster at startup and keep startup wear down.
4. That is absolutely not the correct way to break in an engine. Hopefully the bores were plateau honed, otherwise you overheated the rings and the thing will have blowby it's entire life. Please watch this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Other than the ring I overgapped, the other cylinders had great compression, I have seen that video and many others on break in, I obviously dont have an awd dino, nor do I have access to one within 3 and a half hours of me.
I'm not worried about the break in process right now, thank you though
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,393
932
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
1. You need to chamfer the rod bearings. Eagle cranks have a larger filet on the rod journals, so the edges of the bearings need to be chamfered. This is why the other rod bearings look like that.
Yes because of the larger radius. But he uses King XP bearings. The king XP bearings already have narrower design for larger radius. So it would work without making the bearings chamfered. I always use new Eagle cranks without making King bearings chamfered, I have never had any issues.
The cause why he spun the rod bearings is because he blocked off the oil feed ports.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
I'll wait one more day on trying to find a used oil pump, then I'll probably get a new oem one, I found one for about 300 including shipping, it's just to important of a part, and I dont trust myself to check and guaranty that an acl pump would work properly.
Here is the link, should be legit, not sure
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,393
932
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
I'll wait one more day on trying to find a used oil pump, then I'll probably get a new oem one, I found one for about 300 including shipping, it's just to important of a part, and I dont trust myself to check and guaranty that an acl pump would work properly.
Here is the link, should be legit, not sure
ACL pump would work but yeah the oil pump is one of most important parts, so if you can go with the OEM, that would be the best. No doubt about that.
If the budget is tight, should ask Amayama, if they have it in stock in Japan or some of their warehouse. Now, due to the Covid mess, they can't ship from Japan to the States via EMS, it would be UPS or FedEx. So shipping cost would be a bit higher than EMS, but still cheaper than the general price in the States. Check the link if you are interested in. If they have it in stock, it would be around US$250 shipped to the States.
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/1211a164
 
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