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Uneven bearing wear

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
I cant believe it either, I'm very surprised the mains look as good as the do, with the bearings being backwards, I don't know how they were getting oil hahahaha
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,765
3,767
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Hahaha, at least one thing went my way, should I still get them checked for roundness?
I think you would be wise to have the machine shop check them, yes. They "look" ok but, get them looked at to be safe.
 

MidLifeCriTSIs

Proven Member
48
25
Mar 22, 2021
Salina, Kansas
It is definitely a decent heat mark. The fact that it is pretty evenly spread across the rod, and cap I would almost guarantee that its gunna need some machine work/checked. I have like 3 different sets of 2g rods if you end up needing one send me a DM and I can send one your way for price of shipping.

If you look closely at this picture, you can see the brown heat ring spreads all the way through the cap, what look like maybe 90% through the cast. Look at the brown/block color around the dowel. That brownish line to the left, and black/dark at the top.

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Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok good point, I'll have them checked tomorrow, these are eagle rods.
I just got finished at the machine shop, surprisingly he said he would just polish it, so I trust them on it, and that's good, saves me money
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,400
935
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
The rods were new? or did you recondition the rods?
To me, it looks like assembly error, also you may have had something in the oil passage like Marty mentioned.
IMO, you figure out the cause and fix would probably be the only way to go. So I strongly recommend to disassemble the engine and would inspect and cleaning everything and reassemble properly. When you spun bearings, just replacing the bearings would never work and it would happen again soon or later.
I really do understand about the tight budget. But if you don't want to apart the engine again soon, you should avoid doing something improperly for now and you shouldn't save money and time on cleaning and preparation. For sure, that would save more money and time in the future than you save now.
80% of assembly work would be cleaning and preparation.
I believe that's a right decision. You won't regret it. Most of case only replacing bearings would be just a band-aid solution.

You were at the beginning of it. You were actually lucky that you could find it before it gets worse.

Always you should check it before building the engine and if it's out of spec, have them reconditioned. This is very important to not damage bearings.

Let me grab a couple pictures, because if one did spin at all, it would have been #2, but when I pulled the rod out, at least one half of the bearing fell off I I remember correctly, so it was hard to tell, but, the little key on the bearing broke off when I removed it as well, so I dont believe it did, because the other key is intact
Anyways have all rods reconditioned and I hope the crank would survive. Judging by the pic, it looks like the main journals would be fine with only polishing, but the rod journals maybe not. And don't forget to check straightness.
And then clean clean clean! :hellyeah:
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Yeah, it seemed to me they would need to cut the rod journals, but he measured them and they have not lost any, they are the same as stock when he mic'd them, he also said something about not wanting to remove the hard surface if you dont have to.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
So my Phillips head screw on the oil pump is completely stripped (someone before me) so it looks like I'll have to use my front case from my oil 150k engine, (but its completely covered in gunk, and gonna be a pain to clean)
My other option is to spray break clean through this one, without opening it. Obviously that's not ideal
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,400
935
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Yeah, it seemed to me they would need to cut the rod journals, but he measured them and they have not lost any, they are the same as stock when he mic'd them, he also said something about not wanting to remove the hard surface if you dont have to.
Yeah better not to remove material more than you need and adjust the clearance with bearing thickness if possible. King bearings has more selectable options on thickness than ACL as off the shelf set, besides going with custom set.
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So my Phillips head screw on the oil pump is completely stripped (someone before me) so it looks like I'll have to use my front case from my oil 150k engine, (but its completely covered in gunk, and gonna be a pain to clean)
My other option is to spray break clean through this one, without opening it. Obviously that's not ideal
Should try to remove it with an extractor and replace it with a new, the part number is MD141302. And clean inside the oil pump well. OEM oil pump is really expensive, so shouldn't give up because of just one stripped screw.
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok, got the oil pump apart, let me know what you think, seems there was definitely some type of gunk in there, not sure if it was metal or not, and it looks like the gear has scrapped at some point, you can see from the last picture
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Pictures

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MidLifeCriTSIs

Proven Member
48
25
Mar 22, 2021
Salina, Kansas
Its worn beyond use in my opinion. It is likely showing signs of not fighting tightly. It ingested something, probably parts of you bearing. I dont think you should re use it.

Also I could be wrong here, but that fact that at least half of your oil opening were blocked off leads me to believe the pump was likely operating at a hi pressure. Not sure how much experience anyone has with the that much excess oil pressure at the pump, it is designed to flow back excess pressure back into the pan, however I suspect the system isn't designed to relief the excess PSI you were making in the system.
 
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DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,400
935
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Check all clearance. And how is the drive gear shaft journal? Anyways if you can nail the scoring on the drive gear shaft journal, probably shaft sleeve wall on the case side is also damaged, so better not to re-use the front case.

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Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Yeah I definitely can feel it, I'm in the process of pulling the other case, I'll have to finish it tomorrow, if its unusable, I'll have to get a new one
 

Sam's GSX

Proven Member
372
49
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok looks like i cant use the other pump either, it's in a bit worse shape (not surprising seeing how much metal chunks were in the oil pan, check pictures)
Also the gasket was given me so much trouble, its 24 years old and had never been removed.
So I'll look for another one, it needs to be oem, but 350 right now would hurt a lot,
So I'm seeing if anyone has one first.

Also I got new main bearings in, but the oil holes look different,
On maperformance, you can choose 3 options, 6 bolt, 93-96' and 97+ which has thrust bearing washers, my car is a 97, but only 98 and 99 have the washers, so I ordered for 93-96 (I dont remember if that's what I did the first time building it)

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DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,400
935
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Ok looks like i cant use the other pump either, it's in a bit worse shape (not surprising seeing how much metal chunks were in the oil pan, check pictures)
Also the gasket was given me so much trouble, its 24 years old and had never been removed.
So I'll look for another one, it needs to be oem, but 350 right now would hurt a lot,
So I'm seeing if anyone has one first.

Also I got new main bearings in, but the oil holes look different,
On maperformance, you can choose 3 options, 6 bolt, 93-96' and 97+ which has thrust bearing washers, my car is a 97, but only 98 and 99 have the washers, so I ordered for 93-96 (I dont remember if that's what I did the first time building it)

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How much damage on the OEM pump you have? How is the drive gear shaft sleeve on the case? If the front case and gear cover itself are fine, you can buy only the gears. Or another option would be an aftermarket oil pump, such as ACL. BTW, the metal chunks in the pic looks like turbo's thrust bearing.
As for the bearing oil hole, King has two oil hole designs from some years ago. The top one in the pic is the better oiling one. I am not sure if all King bearings have that hole design now. The last set I received still had the normal hole, it was for 6 bolt though.
 
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