MidLifeCriTSIs
Proven Member
- 50
- 25
- Mar 22, 2021
-
Salina,
Kansas
I am in shock this ran for 1000 miles? Lol I think you caught this JUST in time
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I think you would be wise to have the machine shop check them, yes. They "look" ok but, get them looked at to be safe.Hahaha, at least one thing went my way, should I still get them checked for roundness?
The rods were new? or did you recondition the rods?
To me, it looks like assembly error, also you may have had something in the oil passage like Marty mentioned.
IMO, you figure out the cause and fix would probably be the only way to go. So I strongly recommend to disassemble the engine and would inspect and cleaning everything and reassemble properly. When you spun bearings, just replacing the bearings would never work and it would happen again soon or later.
I really do understand about the tight budget. But if you don't want to apart the engine again soon, you should avoid doing something improperly for now and you shouldn't save money and time on cleaning and preparation. For sure, that would save more money and time in the future than you save now.
80% of assembly work would be cleaning and preparation.
I believe that's a right decision. You won't regret it. Most of case only replacing bearings would be just a band-aid solution.
You were at the beginning of it. You were actually lucky that you could find it before it gets worse.
Always you should check it before building the engine and if it's out of spec, have them reconditioned. This is very important to not damage bearings.
Anyways have all rods reconditioned and I hope the crank would survive. Judging by the pic, it looks like the main journals would be fine with only polishing, but the rod journals maybe not. And don't forget to check straightness.Let me grab a couple pictures, because if one did spin at all, it would have been #2, but when I pulled the rod out, at least one half of the bearing fell off I I remember correctly, so it was hard to tell, but, the little key on the bearing broke off when I removed it as well, so I dont believe it did, because the other key is intact
Yeah better not to remove material more than you need and adjust the clearance with bearing thickness if possible. King bearings has more selectable options on thickness than ACL as off the shelf set, besides going with custom set.Yeah, it seemed to me they would need to cut the rod journals, but he measured them and they have not lost any, they are the same as stock when he mic'd them, he also said something about not wanting to remove the hard surface if you dont have to.
Should try to remove it with an extractor and replace it with a new, the part number is MD141302. And clean inside the oil pump well. OEM oil pump is really expensive, so shouldn't give up because of just one stripped screw.So my Phillips head screw on the oil pump is completely stripped (someone before me) so it looks like I'll have to use my front case from my oil 150k engine, (but its completely covered in gunk, and gonna be a pain to clean)
My other option is to spray break clean through this one, without opening it. Obviously that's not ideal
How much damage on the OEM pump you have? How is the drive gear shaft sleeve on the case? If the front case and gear cover itself are fine, you can buy only the gears. Or another option would be an aftermarket oil pump, such as ACL. BTW, the metal chunks in the pic looks like turbo's thrust bearing.Ok looks like i cant use the other pump either, it's in a bit worse shape (not surprising seeing how much metal chunks were in the oil pan, check pictures)
Also the gasket was given me so much trouble, its 24 years old and had never been removed.
So I'll look for another one, it needs to be oem, but 350 right now would hurt a lot,
So I'm seeing if anyone has one first.
Also I got new main bearings in, but the oil holes look different,
On maperformance, you can choose 3 options, 6 bolt, 93-96' and 97+ which has thrust bearing washers, my car is a 97, but only 98 and 99 have the washers, so I ordered for 93-96 (I dont remember if that's what I did the first time building it)
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I thought split thrust was the 3 peice bearing?You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Looks like a 98+ split thrust to me.