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Talon and Vette 10_03_24.jpg

Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

Old street racing legend reborn

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Ordered some supercheap LED fog lights and tossed them in today. Install was super easy, just snipped off the OEM bullet connector, and crimped/adhesive heat-shrinked on a female spade terminal in its place. Done deal-skis. These look so much better and match my headlights perfectly. No extra wiring or modification required.

Also: I couldn't just pick two pictures so I just uploaded all four. :p Deal with it. 😎

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Still need to polish the lenses, but that's not gonna happen yet. I'm recovering from nearly dying in the hospital from what I THOUGHT was just a headache, so yeah. All my savings went towards some emergency "cut your skull open to relieve pressure" surgery. At least my fogs look cool though!
 
What LED bulb number works in the 1ga foglight housings?
 
What LED bulb number works in the 1ga foglight housings?


Just the regular H3 LED bulbs. I’ll link the ones I bought from Amazon here. The OEM ones have a bullet connector so you’ll have to cut/splice a spade terminal on but that’s it. Easy peasy. If you buy those ones, install them opposite of the OEM bulb. The OEM bulb has a little arm that doubles as the "ground" for the bulb, and the OEM bulbs make a + sign. What you want to do with these bulbs for the widest split/best brightness is install them so it's even with the "arm" (looks like the open end of a safety pin) making it an I shape instead of a +. You'll see what I mean.

Including picture for posterity's sake for one day when the linked pictures don't work anymore.

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I will say, I'm really impressed with these bulbs. The spade terminal on the bulbs had clear adhesive heat-shrink done over it so it's completely weather sealed.
 
Thanks for the info! :thumb:
 
Thanks for the info! :thumb:

Anytime brotha!


In all seriousness it’s why I keep posting stuff here. I like providing info here that I can’t seem to find easily in other threads. Kinda like my attempt to give back to Luda for using so much site bandwidth. ROFL
 
I'm recovering from nearly dying in the hospital from what I THOUGHT was just a headache, so yeah. All my savings went towards some emergency "cut your skull open to relieve pressure" surgery. At least my fogs look cool though!
Completely missed this the first time i read it... Are you okay, dude? I mean, you must be if youre posting about fogs :D...but seriously..
 
Completely missed this the first time i read it... Are you okay, dude? I mean, you must be if youre posting about fogs :D...but seriously..

I’m better now for sure. It started with me having like, debilitating headaches out of nowhere that would escalate pain scale wise. I’m used the migraines but this was something else.

It ended with me being essentially a cripple and struggling through a 17 hour shift through daylight savings bullshit, and I had my wife take me to the ER. They initially thought it was just a sinus infection and discharged me after giving fluids and tylenol(LOL). Later that night they called me and said get to my local level 1 trauma center asap because they found something.

Turns out I was having severe cerebral edema, and my brain was swelling. The fluids they pumped in me made it exponentially worse and my blood pressure was critical.

So they cut a little square out of my skull to relieve pressure, screwed it back on and kept me for a couple days to observe.

Best sleep I ever had man, and that red pain management button was the real MVP.
And the crippling 15 out of 10 pain being gone is a godsend too. I’ve experienced a lot of pain but that was legitimately the worst I can remember. I have no clue how I operated and ran an ambulance this way. Or dealt with it for this long.
 
Glad to see your alright. That is some creepy stuff. I'm honestly terrified of anything hospital/surgery related. I might just croak one day and nobody will ever hear from me again, and not know why.
 
Glad to see your alright. That is some creepy stuff. I'm honestly terrified of anything hospital/surgery related. I might just croak one day and nobody will ever hear from me again, and not know why.


Thanks broski. Honestly, after working in the medical field the hospital becomes way less scary. Minus the significant, mountainous, astronomical cost side of things. *shivers*

But yeah, I bring a shit ton of patients dying, close to dying, or legitimately on deaths doorstep(and sometimes they are in literal pieces) without immediate intervention and I've seen surgeons woken up at 2am do a 16 hour surgery running on 3 hours of sleep pull the person through and walk out of the hospital on their own power with little or no deficits. Trauma surgeons/ER docs in big hospitals I have a fairly large blanket of trust for. There's always a bad apple everywhere, but anything with a "level 1" rating undergoes serious scrutiny, and constant testing. If they screw up once, or don't have the capability anymore they get downgraded.

But that's my area. I have no clue how other areas are, but I know that even my area there are certain hospitals we absolutely will avoid or just outright (quietly) refuse to take an actual dying patient to. Lol. :p
 
I’m better now for sure. It started with me having like, debilitating headaches out of nowhere that would escalate pain scale wise. I’m used the migraines but this was something else.

It ended with me being essentially a cripple and struggling through a 17 hour shift through daylight savings bullshit, and I had my wife take me to the ER. They initially thought it was just a sinus infection and discharged me after giving fluids and tylenol(LOL). Later that night they called me and said get to my local level 1 trauma center asap because they found something.

Turns out I was having severe cerebral edema, and my brain was swelling. The fluids they pumped in me made it exponentially worse and my blood pressure was critical.

So they cut a little square out of my skull to relieve pressure, screwed it back on and kept me for a couple days to observe.

Best sleep I ever had man, and that red pain management button was the real MVP.
And the crippling 15 out of 10 pain being gone is a godsend too. I’ve experienced a lot of pain but that was legitimately the worst I can remember. I have no clue how I operated and ran an ambulance this way. Or dealt with it for this long.
Man, glad still you're still here kicking. Get well soon
 
Man, glad still you're still here kicking. Get well soon


Thankfully, I'm pretty good now. The worst/hilarious part was I got food poisoning from hospital food and had a 24 hour stomach bug immediately after. ROFL I feel like something really tried to kill me and DIDN'T F-CKING SUCCEED. Skill issue chump ass entity tried taking me out and failed. Scrub. Git Gud.

But yeah. That's why I was radio silent for awhile. ROFL
 
Switch in topic: Anyone got any experience with the JMFab "Street" intake manifold on an FP Green sized turbo? Nowhere near anytime soon, obviously, but I am heavily considering one of those paired with an S90 throttle body rebuilt by @MindBlowin03 . In my 'tarded newbie brain I feel like this would be a nice balance and a decent upgrade for the Green.
 
Switch in topic: Anyone got any experience with the JMFab "Street" intake manifold on an FP Green sized turbo? Nowhere near anytime soon, obviously, but I am heavily considering one of those paired with an S90 throttle body rebuilt by @MindBlowin03 . In my 'tarded newbie brain I feel like this would be a nice balance and a decent upgrade for the Green.
I actually just got a 74mm in that is getting the treatment and going up for sale. If you may be interested in that let me know.
 
Switch in topic: Anyone got any experience with the JMFab "Street" intake manifold on an FP Green sized turbo? Nowhere near anytime soon, obviously, but I am heavily considering one of those paired with an S90 throttle body rebuilt by @MindBlowin03 . In my 'tarded newbie brain I feel like this would be a nice balance and a decent upgrade for the Green.
No firsthand experience with that specific intake and turbo, but I will say that if it's anything like the Magnus "street" intake I had, which I believe they're pretty similar, you will be opening up the powerband and efficiency nicely between 5-8k RPM. It was really noticeable for me when I changed from the stock intake manifold to a Forrester, then the Magnus. It kept pulling hard all the way to 8k, which it surely didn't with the factory IM. You'll want to ensure you're pairing that IM and turbo with an optimal cam to take advantage of of it. Some people go too aggressive on the cam, which doesn't help their powerband. My plan was to pair the Magnus street intake manifold with GSC 1 cams and a 50 trim - not for big power, obviously, but for optimal powerband and boost response/range for road racing. I didn't finish that plan, but I knew it was going to be perfect for what I was doing.
 
No firsthand experience with that specific intake and turbo, but I will say that if it's anything like the Magnus "street" intake I had, which I believe they're pretty similar, you will be opening up the powerband and efficiency nicely between 5-8k RPM. It was really noticeable for me when I changed from the stock intake manifold to a Forrester, then the Magnus. It kept pulling hard all the way to 8k, which it surely didn't with the factory IM. You'll want to ensure you're pairing that IM and turbo with an optimal cam to take advantage of of it. Some people go too aggressive on the cam, which doesn't help their powerband. My plan was to pair the Magnus street intake manifold with GSC 1 cams and a 50 trim - not for big power, obviously, but for optimal powerband and boost response/range for road racing. I didn't finish that plan, but I knew it was going to be perfect for what I was doing.


That's along the lines of what I was thinking so that's awesome to hear.

I was gonna mention(but decided not to, to limit the daydreaming) if I upgraded the IM and TB, I'd upgrade the cams to either HKS 272 cams, or some GSC S1s or whatever is comparable these days and get rid of these BC "stage 2's"(I say stage 2 because I only have the numbers on the cams themselves, and they could legitimately be anything from the newer 268/272 variants, old AF 272s, or 280s). I don't need a 9k+ revving top end monster, but I want that mid-range and up to 8k to be nice. These BC cams I just don't really like. Idle is garbage, vacuum is atrocious even among other aftermarket cams, and generally just meh. I remember my HKS 272s and adored them. And I've seen/heard the GSC S1s and love them too. Anything along those lines. Sound good?
 
That's along the lines of what I was thinking so that's awesome to hear.

I was gonna mention(but decided not to, to limit the daydreaming) if I upgraded the IM and TB, I'd upgrade the cams to either HKS 272 cams, or some GSC S1s or whatever is comparable these days and get rid of these BC "stage 2's"(I say stage 2 because I only have the numbers on the cams themselves, and they could legitimately be anything from the newer 268/272 variants, old AF 272s, or 280s). I don't need a 9k+ revving top end monster, but I want that mid-range and up to 8k to be nice. These BC cams I just don't really like. Idle is garbage, vacuum is atrocious even among other aftermarket cams, and generally just meh. I remember my HKS 272s and adored them. And I've seen/heard the GSC S1s and love them too. Anything along those lines. Sound good?
It's been a while since I looked at what cams are available, but GSC was the what I wanted back then, as I found them to be a good match. I might have even reached out to them directly about it. You don't want anything too aggressive (which will suck for idle anyway) because, as you pointed out, they'll be more effective at higher RPM and likely won't be a good match for the powerband you're after. Always plan for the powerband you want for the type of driving you'll be doing most of the time, not maximum power. Unless it's just a drag car of course.
 
It's been a while since I looked at what cams are available, but GSC was the what I wanted back then, as I found them to be a good match. I might have even reached out to them directly about it. You don't want anything too aggressive (which will suck for idle anyway) because, as you pointed out, they'll be more effective at higher RPM and likely won't be a good match for the powerband you're after. Always plan for the powerband you want for the type of driving you'll be doing most of the time, not maximum power. Unless it's just a drag car of course.

Never a drag car. Skreet car baby!
 
No firsthand experience with that specific intake and turbo, but I will say that if it's anything like the Magnus "street" intake I had, which I believe they're pretty similar, you will be opening up the powerband and efficiency nicely between 5-8k RPM. It was really noticeable for me when I changed from the stock intake manifold to a Forrester, then the Magnus. It kept pulling hard all the way to 8k, which it surely didn't with the factory IM. You'll want to ensure you're pairing that IM and turbo with an optimal cam to take advantage of of it. Some people go too aggressive on the cam, which doesn't help their powerband. My plan was to pair the Magnus street intake manifold with GSC 1 cams and a 50 trim - not for big power, obviously, but for optimal powerband and boost response/range for road racing. I didn't finish that plan, but I knew it was going to be perfect for what I was doing.
Do you remember the difference between the Forrester and Magnus?
 
Do you remember the difference between the Forrester and Magnus?
In terms of power? Not with the butt dyno. I didn't do any solid comparisons. I was more concerned with weight savings and space at the time - the Magus IM was WAY lighter. I figured performance would be pretty similar.
 
That's along the lines of what I was thinking so that's awesome to hear.

I was gonna mention(but decided not to, to limit the daydreaming) if I upgraded the IM and TB, I'd upgrade the cams to either HKS 272 cams, or some GSC S1s or whatever is comparable these days and get rid of these BC "stage 2's"(I say stage 2 because I only have the numbers on the cams themselves, and they could legitimately be anything from the newer 268/272 variants, old AF 272s, or 280s). I don't need a 9k+ revving top end monster, but I want that mid-range and up to 8k to be nice. These BC cams I just don't really like. Idle is garbage, vacuum is atrocious even among other aftermarket cams, and generally just meh. I remember my HKS 272s and adored them. And I've seen/heard the GSC S1s and love them too. Anything along those lines. Sound good?
You should play with changing the valve timing before buying another set of cams. You can easily change the engine character by changing the valve timing even with the stock cams. It's free since you already have the cams and adjustable cam gears. Maybe you would like those BC cams.
 
You should play with changing the valve timing before buying another set of cams. You can easily change the engine character by changing the valve timing even with the stock cams. It's free since you already have the cams and adjustable cam gears. Maybe you would like those BC cams.


I totally forgot you recommended this pages ago. Shit, still need to do that. Can you remind me how you recommended me to adjust them? I feel like I remember @keltalon adjusted his like -3 exhaust and -1 intake or something like that.
 
You should play with changing the valve timing before buying another set of cams. You can easily change the engine character by changing the valve timing even with the stock cams. It's free since you already have the cams and adjustable cam gears. Maybe you would like those BC cams.
Probably what I’d do too if I already had some cams in.
 
I totally forgot you recommended this pages ago. Shit, still need to do that. Can you remind me how you recommended me to adjust them? I feel like I remember @keltalon adjusted his like -3 exhaust and -1 intake or something like that.
We can't tell specific numbers for your specific setup since we don't know what valve timing you have now even the cam gears are set as zero'ed. It's because the cam gears at zero degree doesn't guarantee the valve timing are also zero'ed. So you should play with many different settings/combinations.
But generally speaking, for example, if you want to have the idle smoother, try to retard the intake cam or/and advance the exhaust cam for few degree to make the overlap less.

The point of changing valve timing is like finding a compromised point for your specific setup according to your driving style and how you want the car's character, because if you would get better low end, you probably would lose the top end in general.
For instance, I have no awd dyno access, I always did in the track with comparing from in streets, some setting I felt the car is faster in streets, more fun to drive, but the 1/4 time is slower in the track. But the setting I felt slower in streets was actually much better in the 1/4 track.
 
Well, the fuel system finally hold pressure has opened another can of worms that I should've expected, but didn't. Considering it was bleeding off all my fuel pressure and causing the map to be weird to the say least, I should've expected issues with suddenly sealing it up. It will hold fuel pressure at the rail for literal DAYS now. It doesn't bleed down.


With that said, now cold starts below 70* are a monster. This basically caused me to have to redo the fuel map. It needed roughly 5-10% more fuel in certain spots at/above 4500 and in full boost. Idle needed more fuel too, so I adjusted deadtimes and VE in those spots. It's not gonna get below 70* again for a few days, but I also did some research and adjusted the cold start fuel enrichment tables below 70 down to like 0*. Once it's get cool/cold again, I'll try the cold start and see how she does.


Just throws me off how sealing the fuel system up and making it work properly, made it run lean? I would've thought it'd have made it run rich but idk. Tuning is weird.
 
Quality of life improvements just now. This might not seem like a big deal now, but I have read multiple horror stories about these stock phillips head bolts for the fog light. Just for example, these are BRAND NEW from Lowes, stainless steel phillips head bolts using a screw driver that is properly fitted to the screw head. I have only touched a screwdriver to these bolts like..four times individually. By hand. Gently.

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Might be hard to tell, but they're already knurling/looking sus. With Florida salt and water, I was terrified this would strip out like almost every other example I've seen, so looking out for future me, I ordered some Stainless steel quality Allen Head bolts of the same length/thread pitch. The result was extremely pleasing. It cranked down the light more secure, and I really don't think I'll strip these AS EASILY as phillips heads would be. I did use a ratchet, but basically put zero torque on these. Not only does it work great, and can be removed easier, but they also look better...at least to me.

Before
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After!

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God I love stainless allen head hardware for certain things. They fit PERFECTLY as you can see.

Glamour shots!

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Very pleased with this. Also! I'm gonna make an offer. I have like, 5 more sets of these. If you want some, pay for the shipping whatever it may be and you can have a set for your foglights too.

Or just buy THIS pack of 25 like I did off Amazon for $8.33 after taxes. IDK, I'm not telling you how to live your life.
 
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