Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[BLACK'98DSM]

What all did you purchase? Hopefully you got the bearings. Even if you do new gears and synchros, the bearings being worn and causing excessive play can and will trash everything else you install.

 

[pauleyman]

Solomon is right. New bearings are a must.

 

[Anfurnyy]

What all did you purchase? Hopefully you got the bearings. Even if you do new gears and synchros, the bearings being worn and causing excessive play can and will trash everything else you install.

Bearings unless they're bad seem pointless.

I'm all for bearings, but the shims required to shim everything properly are completely NLA. Which would render it a little moot, wouldn't it?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Broke the sun visor clip for the second time in the car adjusting it, and decided I've had enough of used brittle ones and just paid the money for two brand new ones.


Also: I've decided to start being petty. Was looking for an eco/power button from the 1G Autos, and found two. One was performance partout, and the other was on eBay from a private seller. PP wanted $20 plus shipping, eBay'er wanted $32 after shipping, tax, everything. Performance Partout also had the same button listed on their eBay store for $33, before tax.

Figured maybe it'd be cheaper on PP's website, but dude wanted $12 alone just for shipping on the website, and then tax on top of that.

I'm so sick of dsm "business" owners listing stuff for fair prices then charging nearly that much just for shipping on items that will ship for $4-$6 at most, then wanting tax on top. Like, it's almost enough to make me swear off using your "company" ever again. So I paid $30 to the eBay'er out of sheer spite because he had the spine to just list it as one price with free shipping instead of a bait and switch low price then jacking up shipping costs to make what you actually want.

Anyway, rant over. I hate the state of the DSM parts scene man. Back in the day I could score one of these switches and some sun visor clips for probably free.99, or just the cost of shipping alone. Guess they gotta pay for their second home in Florida, or their DSM race car somehow.

Bit usps shipping is $12! For priority its that alone for anything remotely thick. I have the same issue now. If its a letter its not bad but its limited on thickness. Next up is flat rate. Im afraid its not the sellers fault but the US really does over charge for shipping so stopl blaming the sellers and blame the Government as they set the prices!

From US to Canada its $32! From the UK to Canada its $15! So its 100% a US issue. I hate to charge the 12 for shipping also as i sold something so small the other day but its what usps charges so it has to be. You guys dont have cost efffective shipping companys yet. In the UK we get good rates via smaller companys but generally they suck for quality and risk it not getting there .

 

[CrackedDSM]

Bit usps shipping is $12! For priority its that alone for anything remotely thick. I have the same issue now. If its a letter its not bad but its limited on thickness. Next up is flat rate. Im afraid its not the sellers fault but the US really does over charge for shipping so stopl blaming the sellers and blame the Government as they set the prices!

From US to Canada its $32! From the UK to Canada its $15! So its 100% a US issue. I hate to charge the 12 for shipping also as i sold something so small the other day but its what usps charges so it has to be. You guys dont have cost efffective shipping companys yet. In the UK we get good rates via smaller companys but generally they suck for quality and risk it not getting there .

Just for giggles I did a quote from WI to FL, priority USPS, using a small box and a weight of 0.5lb because that’s how much the tiny switch weighs.

Quote was $8 and some change. For priority. The slower services were even cheaper which is what was offered/advertised. Sooooo yeah.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Just for giggles I did a quote from WI to FL, priority USPS, using a small box and a weight of 0.5lb because that’s how much the tiny switch weighs.

Quote was $8 and some change. For priority. The slower services were even cheaper which is what was offered/advertised. Sooooo yeah.

sometimes they dont use custom boxes though as that add's costs to buy them in etc. also note that bubble wrap and packing materials are like 4x the amount in the US for some reason. I am only coming in to partly defend the system thats biased as a whole. I HATE the US shipping rates and prices, it's a huge joke and they get away with it as no one does anything about it. people say now Im here its cheaper to ship to them but its just not true! alot of times its actually MORe now im in the Country

 

[dwb]

+1 for new bearings. With shims NLA, IMO that's the only way to bring it back closer to factory specs. That, and in my experience using a gear puller + bearing separator, it's easy to mangle the old bearing cage when pulling it to access the hub/slider/syncro.

BTW, I replaced all the bearings using a 2-arm adjustable gear puller, a bearing separator, and a small sledge hammer. Large sockets and old bearing races were used for spacers. A few pesky bearings I had to cut off with a Dremel. It took me the better part of a year of casual work for the full rebuild.

 

[CrackedDSM]

+1 for new bearings. With shims NLA, IMO that's the only way to bring it back closer to factory specs. That, and in my experience using a gear puller + bearing separator, it's easy to mangle the old bearing cage when pulling it to access the hub/slider/syncro.

BTW, I replaced all the bearings using a 2-arm adjustable gear puller, a bearing separator, and a small sledge hammer. Large sockets and old bearing races were used for spacers. A few pesky bearings I had to cut off with a Dremel. It took me the better part of a year of casual work for the full rebuild.

If I change bearings though I’ll have to use shims. Which are NLA unless someone has another trick? I was tempted to use shim in a can and just stack them.

 

[dwb]

If I change bearings though I’ll have to use shims. Which are NLA unless someone has another trick? I was tempted to use shim in a can and just stack them.

Reuse the original shim(s).

 

[CrackedDSM]

Reuse the original shim(s).

Would that be better than reusing the current bearings and shims?

I’m a newbie, not challenging anyone or etc. Educate a dummy please. Lol.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Solomon is right. New bearings are a must.

Are these not something one of our amazing vendors could look into making new ones of? Bobby? I have no idea just asking. What would be involved to make new ones?
Maybe Neat in Australia could?
I would be in for a group buy.

 

[dwb]

Would that be better than reusing the current bearings and shims?

I’m a newbie, not challenging anyone or etc. Educate a dummy please. Lol.

My personal theory is that the bearings take the brunt of the preload wear. So the more miles, more wear, looser preload. Replacing that worn bearing resets it back to near-oem preload spec with everything else constant i.e. same shaft, shims, case. Assuming the replacement bearing has the same tolerances as oem.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Are these not something one of our amazing vendors could look into making new ones of? Bobby? I have no idea just asking. What would be involved to make new ones?
Maybe Neat in Australia could?
I would be in for a group buy.

I'm not a transmission sector person, but if something's needed, I will always take a look at something to see if I can help. its not always possible now of course. people are welcome to reach out though

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm not a transmission sector person, but if something's needed, I will always take a look at something to see if I can help. its not always possible now of course. people are welcome to reach out though

I think we need shims mostly. Someone with a laser cutter and access to various thicknesses of metal would make easy money I think.

Doesn’t @jdxnc have a laser cutter? Or am I misremembering?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I think we need shims mostly. Someone with a laser cutter and access to various thicknesses of metal would make easy money I think.

Doesn’t @jdxnc have a laser cutter? Or am I misremembering?

No idea on Jason's doings. he does many things, but maybe outsources also in small batches. another is @twicks69, who is a Transmission guy who can help maybe.

shims of this thickness tend to be ground to be precise and accurate, and do cost more. It's the only downside to ground shims and washers, but they are the most accurate!

 

[jdxnc]

I think we need shims mostly. Someone with a laser cutter and access to various thicknesses of metal would make easy money I think.

Doesn’t @jdxnc have a laser cutter? Or am I misremembering?

I've done a whack of transmissions over the years so I've amassed a huge pile of OEM shims, I've collected quite a few broken transmission just to grab random parts out of like the shims. If I have one that's close but not quite I use 0.004 304SS shim stock to build up what's lacking, not aluminum pop cans like some places. I do like @twicks69 and use a circle cutter in a drill press, works really well.

On rare occasions I'll turn them thinner on the lathe.

Ideally a build includes new bearings but the world isn't ideal and we have to work with what we have sometimes. They key thing to look for is fretting on the races and the rollers, if there's any, it's junk. If you can feel a groove with your fingernail, it's junk. If neither of those is true, shim accordingly. Anytime you change anything in the stack, it needs to be re-shimmed.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I've done a whack of transmissions over the years so I've amassed a huge pile of OEM shims, I've collected quite a few broken transmission just to grab random parts out of like the shims. If I have one that's close but not quite I use 0.004 304SS shim stock to build up what's lacking, not aluminum pop cans like some places. I do like @twicks69 and use a circle cutter in a drill press, works really well.

On rare occasions I'll turn them thinner on the lathe.

If I was to offer full no negotiated/haggling payment could I purchase some from you? I’d measure first and reach out with measurements.

Because if that’s the case I’ll rebuild it with new bearings and everything needed to be freshy fresh.

 

[jdxnc]

If I was to offer full no negotiated/haggling payment could I purchase some from you? I’d measure first and reach out with measurements.

Because if that’s the case I’ll rebuild it with new bearings and everything needed to be freshy fresh.

I edited my post since your reply but possibly if I have what you need. Keep in mine this current shipping situation to the US is...interesting. I shipped a guy a part I sold the other day for $75 and he got all pissy with me because his government charged him $39.60 in tariffs on it upon delivery.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I edited my post since your reply but possibly if I have what you need. Keep in mine this current shipping situation to the US is...interesting. I shipped a guy a part I sold the other day for $75 and he got all pissy with me because his government charged him $39.60 in tariffs on it upon delivery.

Oh I’m aware. I’m planning for when I do a full “build” in the future so if I’m already spending $1500 an extra $100 for shipping won’t bother me.

 

[pauleyman]

Have to admit I'm guilty of the coke can, but we were in a hurry to get to a race.

 

[twicks69]

I already have an assortment of transmission, transfer case and rear diff shims. The only one I still need to make is the tcase mid housing spacer shim for adjusting pinion height. I have the STL file all done to have it manufactured.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I got a tre 4 spider he machined wasn't 600 but close to 400 I think.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I don't get it. Yea sure, the average Joe wouldn't get much enjoyment setting preload, finding shims etc. But something you really won't enjoy is destroying a transmission after you tore it down and half assed the job. I don't get any argument against installing new bearings. I made the recommendation from experience.

No shots fired at anyone, but do it right or forget about longevity.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Well, while I wait for my trans stuff to come in, I did a neat little side project. I want to utilize my scramble boost feature in my AEM TruBoostX, but I really don't want to use a toggle switch, and I'm not gonna drill my stock steering wheel for a button. Although it was tempting. I was kind of stuck, unsure what to do. Then...eureka, I remembered I have used the Eco/Power switch as a "toggle switch" before with great success in my old Auto 1G(kiggly shifter mod, I used the Eco/Power for OD) so I figured this would be a great way to add a sneaky switch to use that good old scramble boost feature.

I used this helpful diagram provided in another thread by @steve the guru.

Only caveat, is it's for a 1GB. On my 1GA the wire colors were different, but locations/functions were identical. On a 1GA the wire colors are:


Wire # 1 - Green w/ Red stripe
Wire #2 - Green w/ White stripe
Wire #3 - Solid Black
Wire #4 - Black w/ White Stripe
#5 - Unused
Wire #6 - Red w/ white

Pictures for posterity's sake.


Anyway, wiring was super easy. I did have to cut off the oem connector because I couldn't find the female connector to match it, so instead I used some good quality spade terminals and just crimped them on and made it detachable if you remove the center console cover.

After that, it was a super duper simple reassembly since it's all OEM.

I am absolutely stoked with how it works.

In case you're curious, whatever you want "toggled" just hook one side up to the red/white wire, and the other side to the Green/Red wire. When the button is clicked down it's "on". When it's left in the "eco" position or out, then it's "off". Use this for anything you would a toggle switch. OD for kiggly shifter mod, Nitrous, whatever. It's VERY easy to reach from the shifter, and if you only want it to be "momentary" and not stay clicked down, it's easy to disassemble the switch and remove the "stop" for it, so it won't click down.

Anyway, I love it. If you didn't really know DSMs, you'd never think twice about the switch. Plus it's an enjoyable play on words. Switch off it's "eco" or low boost". When you click down for "power", it's scramble boost and 30+lbs.

Hope this helps someone in the future!

 

[CrackedDSM]

I’m curious, does anyone have a write up on how to adjust the 1g/90 shifter cables?

I highly doubt that’s my issue but it’s one of those “might as well check it” things since it’d be a free fix.



Edit - I cannot f*cking believe this. I just found a walkthrough and adjusted the cables.

IT FIXED THE GOD D*MNED TRANSMISSION. I am…stunned. The cable was adjusted too tight so when you shifted into 2nd it wasn’t going fully into second gear.

I…this is freaking awesome.