Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[Justin DuBois]

If it's under, add timing, and if it's over should I pull timing out?

The shape of the curve matters, but in general yes.

 

[Anfurnyy]

It looks like your spool up area needs some more fuel? I don't know exactly those show but maybe take a look at that?

 

[CrackedDSM]

It looks like your spool up area needs some more fuel? I don't know exactly those show but maybe take a look at that?

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I will for sure. I’ve been focusing so much on the upper RPMs being rich(which I’ve finally solved! Yay!) I haven’t really looked at that.

I did back off on my timing table since the last post because I really don’t want to grenade this setup. I figure I can run a bit more boost to compensate or just accept the little loss in power in exchange for longevity.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So I did a quick 0-60 rip, and good grief this thing makes way more power. 4900RPM launch, slipping the clutch as much as I always do which usually results in a solid launch resulted in a four wheel burnout that was so healthy it actually left four decent burnout marks on the asphalt. I stayed in the pass anyway just for giggles, and busted out a 4.69 0-60. That's INSANE.


This was after I took a lot of salt and pepper out of the timing map too. Removed timing, added a couple lbs of boost to offset, and the result was 0 knock and ECMLink actually estimates more horsepower now and only a slight loss in torque. It's like 82* outside instead of 90*'s so I'm sure that's a lot of it, but still. That's wild.

412 awhp and 432 ft/lbs of torque. Not too shabby at all considering it's on an engine with 150psi of compression, stock intake, stock exhaust manifold and o2 housing, and with my tarded ass tuning it. The BC Cams are also not degreed or adjusted, just installed straight up. I'm 100% sure a pro could get like mid 400's or higher out of it even as it sits, but I'm proud of it.


I still am running a bit lean in the 3500RPM range, so after this pass I gave it about a 1/3rd turn on the AFPR because the whole map is just a touch lean. If it gets even more lean after I attempt to give it more fuel, I'll check out the hose on the fuel pump because that was the problem last time.

But this is wild, yall. I am so happy. Changing to the -10AN valvecover made a HUGE difference in performance in the upper RPM. The very first pass I made after getting it back together and changing NOTHING with boost or tune and it made 394HP/over 400ft/lbs and felt amazing. Now it makes over 400! Invest in a catch can with big lines yall!!

Stoked. I am extremely tempted to go to the local track now and see what I can click off with this thing.

 

[chrisman287]

How accurate is ecmlink with power numbers?

 

[CrackedDSM]

How accurate is ecmlink with power numbers?

Realistically not as accurate as a dyno. It is a really good metric to use to measure performance increases or decreases though. That's how I'm using it. It's "close enough" to a real world power number, but more importantly it shows that I am making improvements. I'm using it like you're supposed to use real world dynos. Less about the number, more about tracking gains vs losses.

What will really show how accurate or inaccurate it is, will be when I make more 1/4 mile passes. The MPH don't lie.


Went and cruised tonight to get more E85 and fill up a spare 5 gal jug, and car did awesome. I am extremely pleased with the performance of it. I turned the initial boost hit down to like 15-16lbs, and let the boost build gradually to 28/29lbs and it still rips. No oil, no smoke, no spraying out of the can.


Also! I fixed my cigarette lighter finally. I've been meaning to do that, but now I can actually use 12v adapters where before I couldn't. Yay! Best part, I fixed it for Free.99 baby.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So it's like 68-70* outside, decided to take the car for a 0-60 rip. Not sure what's happening during launch, as I had my windows up but man. Felt like clutch slip or I was burning the tires off of it. It holds third and fourth just fine so maybe it's just overpowering the cold road and cold tires. It's also making WAY more jam since it's tickling 60's outside too. Crazy to think I may need stickier tires...that or I might wire in a scramble boost button and use it like a poor mans "boost by gear". Set boost to like 21-22 and then when I clear first, grab the scramble button and have 28-29. I think I may be done with this TruBoostX pretty soon though, to be candid. Every day I am interested more and more in ECMLink's boost control feature.



But!! While I was out, I finally remembered to get a picture of the headlights.

Low Beams - Keep in mind I aimed these down pretty far on purpose. I have ranted for YEARS about douchebags with LEDs that don't have proper cutoffs so I aimed them low, and to date I have never been flashed by an annoyed motorist in the oncoming lane.

Even with them aimed down, line of sight is drastically improved. These are the cheapo amazon H4 LEDs, so nothing spectacular either. Keep that in mind.

High Beams - What I use when I need to see extremely far down the road. You can see why.

Sorry the second pic is so shaky. I was leaning on the wheel and yeah. Car vibrates.

 

[CrackedDSM]

This thing is a beast now, man. Trying to launch at 4900 on the 29lb boost curve just isn’t gonna happen. Lol. Not without DRs or something.


Gonna lower the launch limit by 200RPM and see what she’ll do. I tried to power through the AWD burnout but 2nd gear wasn’t happy. Ran a 13.2 at like 110mph.

If lowering the launch limit doesn’t work I’ll install a scramble boost button and launch on the 21psi curve that nets me good 60’ times and then after the launch hit the scramble button for 28+. See how that works.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Brooooooos.

I will spare you the paragraph of ricer excuses and just sum it up with: I’m a terrible driver. But look at that MPH! I am stoked. I feel like 11’s are within reach if I can learn how to drive.

The goal for the car has always been 7’s in the 1/8th and 11’s in the 1/4. This 1/8th mile pass alone would’ve been a 7. My best 330’ has been a 5.24 and this was a 5.4X. Man! So close.

Anyway. What a difference a properly orientated CAS and a free breathing engine makes.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Brooooooos.

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I will spare you the paragraph of ricer excuses and just sum it up with: I’m a terrible driver. But look at that MPH! I am stoked. I feel like 11’s are within reach if I can learn how to drive.

The goal for the car has always been 7’s in the 1/8th and 11’s in the 1/4. This 1/8th mile pass alone would’ve been a 7. My best 330’ has been a 5.24 and this was a 5.4X. Man! So close.

Anyway. What a difference a properly orientated CAS and a free breathing engine makes.

If you can get that 60' down it's for sure a 7 second 8th mile.

 

[CrackedDSM]

If you can get that 60' down it's for sure a 7 second 8th mile.

Yeah, I'm gonna wire in a scramble boost button to make a poor mans "boost by gear". Launching at 4900 on a lower boost setting usually results in an awesome 60' time. Then when I hit 2nd gear I can grab the button for the full monty. Or I could get stickier tires, but I really don't want to break driveline stuff and I am super worried about that if I suddenly had traction on 29lbs. Lol.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Yeah, I'm gonna wire in a scramble boost button to make a poor mans "boost by gear". Launching at 4900 on a lower boost setting usually results in an awesome 60' time. Then when I hit 2nd gear I can grab the button for the full monty. Or I could get stickier tires, but I really don't want to break driveline stuff and I am super worried about that if I suddenly had traction on 29lbs. Lol.

Maybe try more RPM with less boost on the launch? I don't know if you're leaving 29lbs but that's uh.. that's a lot of boost

 

[99dsmer4g63]

You can get everything from ecm tuning for a true boost by gear with ecmlink for a little more than $100. Just saying….. .

It’s a nice feature for sure I just use the waste gate spring which is 15psi for 1st, it ramps up to about 20 psi for 2nd and then 3rd through 5th is the 25 psi I want.

-Daniel

 

[CrackedDSM]

You can get everything from ecm tuning for a true boost by gear with ecmlink for a little more than $100. Just saying….. .

It’s a nice feature for sure I just use the waste gate spring which is 15psi for 1st, it ramps up to about 20 psi for 2nd and then 3rd through 5th is the 25 psi I want.

-Daniel

I know but I don’t wanna run the moon tune 100% of the time. What I love about the TruBoost is I can switch between three different boost settings immediately. Within seconds of each other while driving.

I wish ECMLink had the function to switch boost maps on the fly.

Maybe try more RPM with less boost on the launch? I don't know if you're leaving 29lbs but that's uh.. that's a lot of boost

Lmao I’m not launching with 29lbs. It just spools so fast that when I’m on 29lbs of boost setting and launch at 4900RPM it ramps up so quick that it blows the tires off of it.

If I had DRs I bet it would be ridiculously hard of a launch though.

 

[Anthony Hornback]

Just make 3 different tunes and save to your home screen. It’s safer than using try boost and not having proper fueling. It’s like 30$ for a MAC valve, throw some spades on it and plug it into where the stock boost solenoid goes

 

[Anthony Hornback]

Safer for your car since it will have a full tune with each change. I always have my laptop with me so it’s nature.
I save each finished tune to my Home Screen so it’s a double click to open and a single click to download

 

[CrackedDSM]

Anyway, I'll let you guys know how the scramble boost thing works out.


I may also see what times I can run on "low" boost. Like low 20's. This thing makes so much more, much cleaner power that it's astounding. And timing is still super soft.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Couple days ago now I fixed the wiring to my cigarette lighter, but it was finicky. If you bumped it whatever you had plugged in there would give out. Looking inside, I could see the problem.

I could technically probably clean it by soaking it in rust remover…but new cigarette lighters are $8 shipped on Amazon. So I got one and threw it in.

Works great!

Looks like OEM fit and finish which was my goal, and my favorite part is this.

The OEM sleeve that holds the light bulb and stuff fits on it just like the OEM one. For all intents and purposes it looks like a brand new OEM unit. Extremely pleased. And now whatever you plug in there doesn’t care how much you bump or move it.

I love little stuff like this. It’s small but man. The little stuff adds up.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Also: the cigarette lighter and ash tray lights haven’t worked but all got the proper voltage. Pulled one out and it was missing one of the metal tabs on the bulb itself and I guess without a working bulb, the circuit doesn’t complete.

So I grabbed a set of these from autozone for $8.

I am pleased to say they are identical to the #74 bulb that supposedly is OEM. They’re not bright at all but I don’t think they’re supposed to be. I ordered a set of LEDs off of amazon(10 pack) but I wanted to see if I fixed the lighting itself and that the 2721 bulbs would even work first, before I bought more.

Either way, it all works now. Now I just need to get my HVAC control lights working, and find a rear privacy cover. Then the interior will be 100% complete and working.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Now, don't LEAN on that lighter. The OEM one had a shield, kinda, around it so if you rest your arm on the console, it wouldn't depress.
Looks nice tho!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Now, don't LEAN on that lighter. The OEM one had a shield, kinda, around it so if you rest your arm on the console, it wouldn't depress.
Looks nice tho!

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That reminds me I’ve got the OEM lighter in the car somewhere. Just gotta find it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So, super duper small thing but I've been messing with my lights for the cigarette lighter and ashtray. They never worked even when I plugged the OEM harness in, and it turned out that one of the bulbs was blown. I ordered new incandescent bulbs for it, but they just weren't bright. There was a voltage issue, and when I grounded one of the bulbs with my test light, it'd burn nice and bright. Inside the socket was pretty corroded and even after sanding, it wasn't quite up to snuff.


Fast forward a bit, and I decided that maybe throwing in some LEDs would solve it, as they burn brighter. So I ordered some of THESE from Amazon. Which are the #74/2721 bulbs that go into the ashtray, the cigarette lighter, and even behind some of the HVAC/dash board lights.

Picture for the future in case the link is broken for you future peeps.

Unfortunately, it didn't work. The voltage drop or whatever the issue was, wasn't even enough to light the LEDs up. Figuring the problem was the socket, I hopped on over to superbrightLEDs and found a T1-34 base wired socket, which is identical to the sockets our light bulbs plug into. THIS is the link for them, and as with before, here's a picture of what it looks like in case the link breaks in the far future.

First thing I did when I got them, was test fit. I'm pleased to report they fit perfectly in a 1G center console for the ashtray and the cigarette lighter. Better than the OEM ones that are 30 years old now.

On a whim, before I wanted to commit and solder it all together, I hooked the pigtails up just twisting the wires together and hooked them in the same sequence the OEM wiring does. The way it's wired from the factory(I assume at least this was factory) was positive wire goes to the blue wire of the first socket, and black wire runs from the first socket, to the blue wire of the 2nd bulb/socket, then black goes to ground somewhere. Which to me seems really dumb, because if one bulb blows it breaks the circuit so neither works.


Either way, doing this resulted in only one of the LEDs turning on. Not sure why, but I was thankful I didn't solder it all together. So I at this point did some testing and swapping and discovered that they both ignite when you just wire the bulb sockets separately so they have their own power and ground, and aren't chained together. Both sockets share a power wire, and a ground wire, but they're not connected in "sequence". Doing this resulted in a spectacularly bright LED light, and I couldn't be happier.

Word of advice, if you go with this specific brand of socket, and these specific LEDs...the LED bulbs are a SUPER tight fit into that socket. You'll feel like you're breaking the bulb by how much force you have to press them in, but they do eventually snap in with a satisfying click.

The result speaks for itself.

I absolutely could not get the pictures to be not blurry, but you get the idea. The lights are actually usefully bright, not too much at all. When you remove the cigarette lighter, the light illuminates inside the 12v socket nicely. I'm extremely pleased overall, especially for how ridiculously cheap this was to do. And I've got like 8 of the LED bulbs leftover so I can hopefully replace some of the ones that are missing for my HVAC controls, which are the next thing on my to-fix list.

It's the little stuff, man. Very pleased.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Just a little throwback reminder of where this cars interior was when I first got it.

Terrible seats, terrible wheel, gauges just screwed in wherever they would fit, no driver's side seat belt, "harnesses" bolted directly 90* to the floor of the car, missing panels, no center console, no radio installed. No door panels. Lol.

Fast forward to now

Radio, creature comforts, full black leather interior. Man. Two years came and went by fast. Thanks everyone for making it possible and sticking with me!

 

[CrackedDSM]

On the way home from work thursday AM, I noticed I had zero boost control. It went right to 28+lbs even with the solenoid set to "off". Weird, but I immediately knew the problem. However it started to snowball. Right as I was debating pulling over, a Florida summer monsoon thunderstorm popped up and gushed water everywhere. Visibility dropped to less than a few feet, the whole nine yards. Screw it, I can drive home and just be my own boost controller, right? Surely no further issues?

Ha. The DSM Gods just laughed and laughed and laughed...

I first noticed a problem with the water temp getting above 200*. Which it never does, but then right when I started to panic it fixed itself and cooling down to operating temps. Okay weird, but cool. However, suddenly I noticed the instrument cluster lights started dimming. WTF?

I plugged in my little 12V USB charger adapter that reads voltage, and it said 10.3v. Seriously, WHAT THE -- okay. Right when I lost hope and planned on driving home with my little jump box attached, the belt started squealing and then it started charging again. USB adapter said 13.7v, cool. This would kind of rinse and repeat all the way home, until I got to a less wet area/the storm started moving past. Once water stopped being everywhere, the car charged fine with no further issues. I had plans to dig into it when I got home, but honestly it started to monsoon again, so I ragequit and just decided to take my Edge to work.


So fast forward to now when I finally had time(and weather) to dig into it. I immediately found the problem with the boost controller, and probably the overheating issue too. I forgot to re-secure the boost controller to the fan shroud with the ziptie, and it fell into the fan. It cut the hose going to the turbo, and caught itself in the fan a little which chewed the fan a little bit but otherwise looks okay.

And as far as the charging, the problem is the belt is too loose. It's fine when it's dry, but if a significant amount of water(more than a few drops) gets on it, it slips and doesn't charge. The ground is still pretty wet outside, so I'm gonna wait until later and tension the belt a little more. I erred on the side of loose because I didn't want to hurt the alternator bearings by tightening it like a gorilla...but honestly I'd rather just have to replace the alternator sooner. Lol.

But yeah. No pictures unless yall wanna see the fan. I also caught one of the hose clamps for the upper radiator pipe exiting the chat, which would've been a disaster if it let go on the drive to work. Dang.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I once under tensioned the new belt on my 98. It flew off on the highway. Since I just bought it, I stopped abruptly and retrieved it. Out of anger I tightened the shit out of it. That was far from beneficial though because it flew off again, this time in many pieces. I rode around for a few days with no power steering because I didn't feel like messing with another new belt.
Now that I've installed a million belts, these problems are the past. I can pretty much feel proper tension with my fingers now. Once you find that sweet spot, feel it / flex it thoroughly and take mental notes. If you can replicate that everytime, the problems will cease. Improperly tensioning a belt can be quite the inconvenience. Your situation was best case scenario.