Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I slung a alternator belt in the middle of NO WHERE when I first got my Red 1g. LUCKILY.....I had the old belt in the back so I forced it on by turning the motor over (no tools) and decided it was time to GO HOME.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Oh I know how lucky I got. I had the belt tensioned before perfectly and never had an issue, but I got a case of chickening out and backed off on it. It's back to where it was. I will however keep a spare belt in the car now, and maybe take some hand tools too.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So I’ve been messing with my timing map, making it less aggressive to save wear and tear on the transmission and engine and everything really. Got the torque down to 400ft/lbs at 28lbs, got the power down to like 380-400 so I’m happy with that.


But the main thing I found was the nifty little option under fastidleair table in the direct access tab. And one of the tables was ISC offset with A/C on. Stoked.

I adjusted that setting, and now she idles on her own with the A/C on!! It’s a struggle, but it holds itself. Which helps me a lot. Stoked with that!

So yeah. That goes a long way in enjoying the drive. I really don’t think this alternator is up to snuff, but before I change it out and get a better one I may upgrade the cables from it and see if that helps my charging situation. It charges just fine, don't get me wrong, but if the headlights are on and the A/C is on voltage will drop to like 12.9-13.3's and cycle from there. I'd like it to stay more steady than that TBH, and I feel like it should. It's a 90amp Alternator. Stock small sized wiring though.

SOOOOO, might do a wiring upgrade here and hope that helps. I have a strong feeling that'll help my idle a lot too because the cluster lights dim a tiny bit when it stumbles.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Quick question, do I need to add an inline fuse if I upgrade the stock alternator wire from dual 8ga to a single 4ga? Is 4ga gonna be enough?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Quick question, do I need to add an inline fuse if I upgrade the stock alternator wire from dual 8ga to a single 4ga? Is 4ga gonna be enough?

I don't remember, do you have a battery relocation or stock location? 4 gauge is plenty for stock location, IMO.

I also ran full 4 gauge with the relocation in the hatch and didn't have any voltage issues either

The fuse depends on if you're gonna run the stock fuse or not really. You're probably fine with giving the fuse a slight upgrade but I don't think it warrant's a whole new in line fuse.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I don't remember, do you have a battery relocation or stock location? 4 gauge is plenty for stock location, IMO.

I also ran full 4 gauge with the relocation in the hatch and didn't have any voltage issues either

The fuse depends on if you're gonna run the stock fuse or not really. You're probably fine with giving the fuse a slight upgrade but I don't think it warrant's a whole new in line fuse.

Stock location.

 

[DSMPT]

Quick question, do I need to add an inline fuse if I upgrade the stock alternator wire from dual 8ga to a single 4ga? Is 4ga gonna be enough?

Assuming you are replacing the factory alternator wires (Factory 2 white 8 gauge wires) between the alternator and the fuse box. That fuse depends on the alternator output and you already have a fuse in the factory fuse box, so no need to add an inline fuse on the new 4 gauge wire. When you go with a higher output alternator, you would need to replace the alternator fuse in the fuse box.

 

[CrackedDSM]

2nd gear gets more pissed off every day. Lol. I am now having to skip it entirely. Or if I need it, I can power shift/clutch less shift it with no issues yet. But I’m gonna just skip it to hopefully save the wear and tear on it.


So if anyone has a line on a 1g awd transmission or can help me in any way…please do. I’m desperate at this point. I daily this car.

 

[Anfurnyy]

2nd gear gets more pissed off every day. Lol. I am now having to skip it entirely. Or if I need it, I can power shift/clutch less shift it with no issues yet. But I’m gonna just skip it to hopefully save the wear and tear on it.


So if anyone has a line on a 1g awd transmission or can help me in any way…please do. I’m desperate at this point. I daily this car.

REBUILD ITTTTTT. It's pretty easy!

 

[chrisman287]

2nd gear gets more pissed off every day. Lol. I am now having to skip it entirely.

Could be worse. I just put in a junkyard trans and 1st pops out with almost any gas applied if I don’t ride the clutch and hold it in place.

 

[CrackedDSM]

REBUILD ITTTTTT. It's pretty easy!

I need the parts, unsure what all I’d need to replace. Should I just buy the jacks rebuild kit and a 2nd gear? What about bearings and shims? I’d really need help or a guide or something but I don’t wanna bug someone to hold my hand. Lol.

Could be worse. I just put in a junkyard trans and 1st pops out with almost any gas applied if I don’t ride the clutch and hold it in place.

Oof. When my trans gets hot it’s like 2nd isn’t even there. Power shifting works though. It just sucks. I love 2nd gear.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I need the parts, unsure what all I’d need to replace. Should I just buy the jacks rebuild kit and a 2nd gear? What about bearings and shims? I’d really need help or a guide or something but I don’t wanna bug someone to hold my hand. Lol

Roll pins for all forks
Stake nuts
Whatever synchros you wanna do
Neodymium magnet upgrade

Unless bearings look beat, I'd run what you have unless you REALLY wanna replace them.

Shims are pretty much discontinued completely. Even if you did try to set preload it'd be almost impossible to find the shims you need unless Tim or Kurt have a lead on some.

The intermediate shaft is pretty easy. One snap ring, and you can literally press off everything from the cast 3rd gear down in one go. I think you could use a bearing puller for that one?

Don't mind the blue circles. That picture is just meant to show the exploded view of the intermediate shaft.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Roll pins for all forks
Stake nuts
Whatever synchros you wanna do
Neodymium magnet upgrade

Unless bearings look beat, I'd run what you have unless you REALLY wanna replace them.

Shims are pretty much discontinued completely. Even if you did try to set preload it'd be almost impossible to find the shims you need unless Tim or Kurt have a lead on some.

The intermediate shaft is pretty easy. One snap ring, and you can literally press off everything from the cast 3rd gear down in one go. I think you could use a bearing puller for that one?

Don't mind the blue circles. That picture is just meant to show the exploded view of the intermediate shaft.

View attachment 776114View attachment 776115View attachment 776116

If 2nd gear needs to be entirely replaced can I still reuse bearings?

And neodymium magnet upgrade?? Wat?

You’ve got me convinced man. I may actually try this. I think I’m gonna upgrade to a billet fork too.

 

[Anfurnyy]

If 2nd gear needs to be entirely replaced can I still reuse bearings?

And neodymium magnet upgrade?? Wat?

You’ve got me convinced man. I may actually try this. I think I’m gonna upgrade to a billet fork too.

I doubt it does but if it does then yeah. As long as the race and actual bearing looks fine I would.

Yeah buy some cheap neodymium magnets off eBay to replace the stock that sits in the side of the case and collects all the metal garbage.

It's really worth the knowledge at the very least. It'll be very eye opening when you get a peak in there. Lol when / if you go to do it you can shoot me a message and I can help out. There's a few small things you'll need to do/ remember when you disassemble, and reassemble.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I doubt it does but if it does then yeah. As long as the race and actual bearing looks fine I would.

Yeah buy some cheap neodymium magnets off eBay to replace the stock that sits in the side of the case and collects all the metal garbage.

It's really worth the knowledge at the very least. It'll be very eye opening when you get a peak in there. Lol when / if you go to do it you can shoot me a message and I can help out. There's a few small things you'll need to do/ remember when you disassemble, and reassemble.

You've convinced me. I'm still gonna buy a spare trans just so I can continue to drive the car, but I'm gonna try to rebuild it. I'll use the Jacks premium rebuild kit and send out my first and second to be machine for double synchros. That and a billet shift fork will complete it nicely.

I don't think I'll have the money this go around, but eventually I'd like to find somewhere that'll do a 4 spider center diff for me.


One more question: What's the limit of the 92+ 3rd and 4th power wise? Do I really need at my power level, or future power levels(no more than an FP Red, ever) the 90 "HD" 3/4? There's a local trans that I'm not sure if it's a 90 or not, but it's got a broken shift fork and I can get the whole trans for pennies. So I'm planning as if it's not a 90/worst case scenario.

So far the plan is Jacks "Economy" rebuild kit with the double synchro 2nd gear option. I'm gonna purchase the TMZ cross-shaft for the four spider, and have jacks machine my center diff and make it a 4 spider center diff w/ torrington bearing upgrade. Billet 1-2 fork and billet 3-4 rail ends from white shed speed. I think that's a solid upgrade path and hopefully will result in a more robust transmission that'll stand up to my abuse.

Thoughts? Critiques? Give me your honest opinions/experiences.

 

[CrackedDSM]

To add, jacks will do a 4 spider…for $600.

Jesus. That’s just the machining and assembly. I’d have to provide the gears, and the cross shaft and my diff. Is that a good price or should I go somewhere else?

 

[Anfurnyy]

To add, jacks will do a 4 spider…for $600.

Jesus. That’s just the machining and assembly. I’d have to provide the gears, and the cross shaft and my diff. Is that a good price or should I go somewhere else?

Check with TRE and get a quote from Jon.

I can't remember exactly what I supplied but I think it was the torrington bearing, the new cross shaft, a diff housing top and an entire diff body and the spider gears and it was like a little over $400?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Broke the sun visor clip for the second time in the car adjusting it, and decided I've had enough of used brittle ones and just paid the money for two brand new ones.


Also: I've decided to start being petty. Was looking for an eco/power button from the 1G Autos, and found two. One was performance partout, and the other was on eBay from a private seller. PP wanted $20 plus shipping, eBay'er wanted $32 after shipping, tax, everything. Performance Partout also had the same button listed on their eBay store for $33, before tax.

Figured maybe it'd be cheaper on PP's website, but dude wanted $12 alone just for shipping on the website, and then tax on top of that.

I'm so sick of dsm "business" owners listing stuff for fair prices then charging nearly that much just for shipping on items that will ship for $4-$6 at most, then wanting tax on top. Like, it's almost enough to make me swear off using your "company" ever again. So I paid $30 to the eBay'er out of sheer spite because he had the spine to just list it as one price with free shipping instead of a bait and switch low price then jacking up shipping costs to make what you actually want.

Anyway, rant over. I hate the state of the DSM parts scene man. Back in the day I could score one of these switches and some sun visor clips for probably free.99, or just the cost of shipping alone. Guess they gotta pay for their second home in Florida, or their DSM race car somehow.

 

[chrisman287]

Figured maybe it'd be cheaper on PP's website, but dude wanted $12 alone just for shipping on the website, and then tax on top of that.

I'm so sick of dsm "business" owners listing stuff for fair prices then charging nearly that much just for shipping on items that will ship for $4-$6 at most, then wanting tax on top.

In the future I think you can email them or send John W Hanlon a message on FB and they’ll work with you on shipping if it seems outrageous for what you’re purchasing.

 

[CrackedDSM]

In the future I think you can email them or send John W Hanlon a message on FB and they’ll work with you on shipping if it seems outrageous for what you’re purchasing.

I like John but I’ve done that in the past and he’s essentially said that shipping is the same regardless of ordered on the site or via PM.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I like John but I’ve done that in the past and he’s essentially said that shipping is the same regardless of ordered on the site or via PM.

I've seen PP sell through ebay, is that what you were comparing earlier?

 

[CrackedDSM]

I've seen PP sell through ebay, is that what you were comparing earlier?

His eBay prices were higher than the website’s. What I meant was I found a different seller on eBay and bought it from them instead.

 

[saturn345]

Cost of shipping is ridiculous anymore. I just sent fuel line out in envelope package and cost me 11.05 to ship something so simple today.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, apologies for the negativity.

Back on topic: I was looking for the Eco/Power switch, because the plan is to use it for my scramble boost button. I just can't in good conscience drill out the OEM steering wheel for a button, and I'm not about to rig up a toggle switch or button just randomly in the interior, then it hit me. Use the Eco/Power switch. It's OEM, no one is going to really pay attention to it, and it's beautifully on the nose. When the switch isn't pressed, it's "economy". When it's pressed, cue Jeremy Clarkson. "POWWWAAAAAAAHHHHH".


So yeah. Got a few miscellaneous stuff on the way too, but nothing crazy. Still saving my pennies for a spare trans, and eventually the rebuild kit. One of the miscellaneous things is two brand new sealed 1G sunvisor clips. Which I'm stoked about, tired of breaking used ones. Lol. If these break I'm gonna get DSM 3D Creations to 3D Print some better, more heat resistant ones.

 

[CrackedDSM]

More good news: I decided to pull the trigger on a rebuild kit of sorts for my transmission. I'm not gonna go crazy, and I have a spare...I just wanna get my feet wet and experience taking it apart/assembling it. I'll post pictures as I go, but for now I'm just gonna do 1-2, since 3/4/5/R are all fine even at WOT/max shifting speed. 1st has always been iffy and 2nd is unhappy as well. So. Yeah.

I didn't get a new slider and hub, because I'm just gonna see/look at it when I have it apart. If it needs a slider/hub, then I'll just reassemble it with the new parts I have, and do a full rebuild on the spare transmission with all the bells and whistles. I went for cost vs just doing the whole thing for now. If it goes good, I'm 100% gonna do a full/crazy build on my spare trans that includes billet forks, double synchro first and 2nds, 4 spider center diff w/ torrington bearings, and billet rail ends. For now, I'd just like to limit the damage and get it shifting into 1st and 2nd again.

I'm excited for this. I'll probably take a week off from work when I do it, so I don't need to just rush and crunch time it all back together.