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99 GSX Rebirth/Clean-Up/Build

Year
1999
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,044
2,296
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
You'll see below, but Honestly I didn't think it was bad at all underneath. Wire wheeling everything and brush on rust encapsulator will hold the corrosion for many years to come.




So I got the subframe pulled out, just had to take the center console apart to remove the e-brake cables and slid it out.

Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Then the next thing was driveshaft, exhaust shields, and gas tank/shield.

View attachment 595986Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Pretty much any 10mm bolt snapped unerneath... Go figure. Other than the 10mm's holding the exhaust shield and gas tank shield on, the only other bolts that broke were two 14mm holding the exhaust fuel neck bracket on, which was very surprising...

These right here:

View attachment 595987Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I went ahead and just cut the fuel lines, will be replacing them.

View attachment 595988Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

View attachment 595989Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

The only other problem I encountered were the two studs for the gas tank straps on the rear. The bracket seemed fine, surface rust easily fixable, but the nuts holding the straps on were sooooooo rusted. The studs got so warm they are curved and not straight...

View attachment 595990Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Another thing I ran into were the brake lines. They are gross and seem to be pretty rusty.. Not sure what to do about that. Re-make them? Run flex brake lines? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Peace,

-Brady
The filler neck cover bolts do snap, i had 3 snap on 2 different cars, unsure as to why since they huge and strong, my guess is water gets in the rail somehoe and rusts it from the inside.

You can redo the brake likes in copper nickel line as i did this last year untill i recently had custom stainless lines made up, copper nickel will last for ages and cheaper then the stainless ones.

I believe your rust underneath is a fraction better then mine, i got a few bits of surface under there thats just paint scabs really. Still shocking how it gets up there when its always covered up
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Well I went to the junkyard to inspect a 2G. It just sucks because all of the cars in the junkyard have barely any surface rust and are getting scrapped while mine is a rusty POS.

I went to see how I would go about getting the rockers off. The piece that can be removed with spot weld driller has to be removed first in order to not destroy it, but since I wasn't using that from this piece and it was only a trial run I cut right through it.

I probably cut 20' of cuts more than I needed to, but I finally found the correct way to cut this off with a reciprocating saw. This 2g had barely any rust.. I'm talking like the pinch welds were amazing underneath, bolts came out with a simple impact, still plenty of zinc plating on the bolts, and the rear rocker STILL had rot. The design is just freaking horrible. But anyway, I figured it out and will attempt both rockers next time on a clean GST at another junk yard. Have to charge up the batteries 100% and get some new blades.

Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 

Dusty Landrum

Supporting VIP
243
140
Jul 15, 2019
San Francisco, California
So I am like maybe two steps ahead doing the exact same thing and I have an opinion on the 3M undercoating btw... I bought it as well and after sanding down and prepping/cleaning then spraying the rear metal behind the bumper I am not too pleased with it. It just does not seem to be very durable. I brushed up against it with a tool while crawling under the car and it scrapped every bit of the coating off back down to metal. This was after three coats of the stuff too. So that made me start messing with it and its just not tough at all. Would be perfect for interiors and stuff but I personally didnt like the idea of it on the exterior. Plus read that it will shrink and crack in the cold (Denver right?). I now am using the rusoleum professional grade and like it MUCH better.

Just my opinion though man, and its funny that we are doing this at the exact same time LOL. I just finished from the rear bumper metal all the way to the tunnel. Not looking forward to the tunnel haha.
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
So I am like maybe two steps ahead doing the exact same thing and I have an opinion on the 3M undercoating btw... I bought it as well and after sanding down and prepping/cleaning then spraying the rear metal behind the bumper I am not too pleased with it. It just does not seem to be very durable. I brushed up against it with a tool while crawling under the car and it scrapped every bit of the coating off back down to metal. This was after three coats of the stuff too. So that made me start messing with it and its just not tough at all. Would be perfect for interiors and stuff but I personally didnt like the idea of it on the exterior. Plus read that it will shrink and crack in the cold (Denver right?). I now am using the rusoleum professional grade and like it MUCH better.

Just my opinion though man, and its funny that we are doing this at the exact same time LOL. I just finished from the rear bumper metal all the way to the tunnel. Not looking forward to the tunnel haha.

I did the wheel wells in the 3M coating and it turned out great. Nice and hard. Just went out there to double check. Maybe you did too thick of coats? I still plan on using it on all the surface metal underneath.


Well I've been soaking everything in PB blaster. I got one axle nut off and majority of the others, but the bolts are seized in the bushing sleeve which is pretty typical. One axle nut is being a HUGE pain, but we will see.

I got the diff out, this will be getting new seals/paint job/ new fluid etc etc.

49753738167_6db61f1001_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


49753738272_4ecbecfe18_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Additionally, has anyone gotten axles "rebuilt"? I'm wondering if I take these stock LSD axles to an axle shop they could freshen them up?

49753738237_dc9ceaf50e_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Headed to the junkyard to possibly get both rockers, and front rad support if it isn't too banged up. Mine has too much rust IMO.

Peace!

-Brady
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Yo,

Spent the better part of a week figuring out how to get this subframe apart.

49765646887_98e056fc58_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49765321931_b366d86636_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

All of the mounting bolts to the subframe from the control arms were all seized in the bushing sleeve of course.

49765321576_899e585e59_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Also the sway bar end links were rusted solid, had to cut those as well.

49764789093_a6b2996dec_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49765322096_5755a21051_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49765653007_5da4fc30ba_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Finally have the subframe separated except one bolt/sleeve combo that I cut with a recip. saw. But I did snag some very nice 3g uppers from the junkyard.

49764790023_6ca8002359_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

While I was there I noticed the 2g spyders have rear sway bars, so I saw a set of minty lower control arms on a spyder that I wanted to grab. Went home and did some part lookups and seems they are the same part number! So I'm going to go back and snag those nice lower control arms. I will buy new trailing/toe arms since those are still available. Nothing adjustable at this time, just want it all new/freshened up.

Peace!
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Yo,

Moved onto removing the rear bumper, managed to break every single 10mm bolt except one! What an accomplishment LOL.

Hopefully can vice-grip them from beneath and remove them. Both 14mm bolts underneath on one side broke as well.

The brackets on top of the bumper are toasted. I plan to snag these from the junkyard from a rust free 2g. Also will probably steal some more bumper brackets from that one, and maybe even the bumper as mine is spider cracked to hell and the body shop said they couldn't respray it.

49769319008_980d3826a4_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


You can really see the spider cracking in this pic.

49769319068_b005fab946_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49769853206_7db9d18785_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I got my Eastwood and Automotive Touchup packages in. Got some more base and primer. As well as the rust encapsulator and interior frame spray for all the interior pieces on the unibody.

49769319113_f562961126_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Well I pulled the rear trunk interior and got the bumper off.

49770008218_70ba750013_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Digging around to find more problem areas that need to be addressed and came accross this one.

49770540491_edee52b2eb_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Will have to cut a 2g at the yard for this bag corner area.

49770008098_47cb6de68c_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49770866457_9b7266e0fb_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I've got a pretty healthy parts pile starting up LOL

49770010358_4a4373c4a3_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

On another note...

49770008488_8092880df1_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

If anyone has a good idea on how to fix this broken upper control arm bolt WITH 2 broken drill bits inside of it, please let me know. I've thought of doing a 1.25" hole saw and cutting a fresh one off a donor... But open to suggestions.

Will head to the junkyard and pick up the following:

Rear Toe Arms
Rear Trailing Arms
Rear control arm
Rear Upper Bumper Brackets (3)
Rear Bumper Big brackets to frame rails
Screw Clip for rear bumper nearest to wheel
Rear Bumper Lower Bracket middle

Peace!
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,044
2,296
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Well I pulled the rear trunk interior and got the bumper off.

View attachment 596604Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Digging around to find more problem areas that need to be addressed and came accross this one.

View attachment 596605Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Will have to cut a 2g at the yard for this bag corner area.

View attachment 596606Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

View attachment 596607Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I've got a pretty healthy parts pile starting up LOL

View attachment 596608Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

On another note...

View attachment 596609Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

If anyone has a good idea on how to fix this broken upper control arm bolt WITH 2 broken drill bits inside of it, please let me know. I've thought of doing a 1.25" hole saw and cutting a fresh one off a donor... But open to suggestions.

Will head to the junkyard and pick up the following:

Rear Toe Arms
Rear Trailing Arms
Rear control arm
Rear Upper Bumper Brackets (3)
Rear Bumper Big brackets to frame rails
Screw Clip for rear bumper nearest to wheel
Rear Bumper Lower Bracket middle

Peace!
Your rust in the back is how mine is also. Its like its such a common place, both side was bad but passenger side was holey LOL.

For the bolts thats a first for them to snap i see. Mine came off a breeze. But i do always whack bolts with a hammer first if never taken off before so it shocks it and hopefully frees it abit.

I say just drill it with a center drill once prepped correctly then open it up to the correct size for the m10 fine thread. Start with a center drill as its small and tough then work up sizes. Dont use a small drill bit as they bend and move around and wont center correctly very good
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Man I am happier by the day that I bought my car out of New Mexico. I'm not sure its ever seen rain until I bought it (I'm so sorry car). I can't believe you even had rust as clean as that car was.

I really believe the 99's had the worst rust prevention out of all the 2g's. There is like zero seam sealer on this car compared to older 2g's. So frustrating. All of its rust was there when I bought it 10 years ago, really no progression since I've owned it. The rear end has never been taken apart, including the bumper. So Once all of these bolts are removed and rust removed it should be good for a lonnggggg long time.
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
661
247
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Enjoying watching the progress. It will feel great, knowing the back end is rust free, and no longer deteriorating. Do yourself a huge favor on reassembly: use anti seize on the threads of every bolt, so that if you ever have to take any of this apart again, you won’t be snapping bolts. We actually look forward to removing parts of our Spyder that haven’t been disassembled previously, since we know that when it goes back together, it will be a) rust free, and b) have anti seized bolts throughout.
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Enjoying watching the progress. It will feel great, knowing the back end is rust free, and no longer deteriorating. Do yourself a huge favor on reassembly: use anti seize on the threads of every bolt, so that if you ever have to take any of this apart again, you won’t be snapping bolts. We actually look forward to removing parts of our Spyder that haven’t been disassembled previously, since we know that when it goes back together, it will be a) rust free, and b) have anti seized bolts throughout.

Oh definitely. It gives me a good feeling knowing it will all be back together clean and fresh! With the bolts that I can't find new, I will probably paint on a zinc coating on the heads.
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Made some good progress last night.

Got all of the snapped 10mm bolts that hold the rear bumper out. Just used a vice grip.

49772714743_dec4e35f56_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Then started really removing everything since I would be cleaning/painting almost everything. This vent and the shield below.

49773594362_b03ecb1fa9_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

49773629322_a3067a6702_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I will pull all the screw clips (green) as well. All of the studs welded to the body broke holding that vent shield in place. I will probably just grind off the broken stud and run without the vent shield unless someone screams at me that I should leave it.

I do have a couple exhaust hangars I want to remove and then I will work my way forward removing everything. Fuel/Brake lines etc. Then Front subframe/engine/trans.

49772732963_56f9824a31_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I have been checking all the surface rust to see if there is some more serious damage anywhere and doesn't seem to be so that has me pretty pumped!

All of this will look so good once it is cleaned and wire wheeled that is for sure.

49773592402_b24f23fcba_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Great thread! Love the car and the garage! Just ordered myself some SwissTrax tiles. How are yours holding up?
-DSMnation

Thanks dude!

I love the RaceDeck tiles. Always looks clean, all the dirt and crap goes underneath. Water/slush goes underneath. You can replace a tile individually for $3. You can move the tiles with you. The list goes on! They've held up. Definitely can't handle the jackstands I have since they are like knives underneath LOL. And I dragged my subframe fully loaded and the bolts chunked up the tiles. But when I'm done doing all this mechanic stuff I'll replace a couple tiles probably. But very pleased and glad I didn't go with epoxy.
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Hey,

Long time no posting but I've been doing some home renovations.

I snagged some more goodies from the junkyard:

Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

-Minty Rad support
-Rear control arms w/ swaybar links
-Rear Bumper Brackets
-Rear license plate bracket
-Rear Bumper crash bar brackets

All of these parts on my car were destroyedddd with rust. Glad I found these. They will all be getting blasted/coated.

Here is a comparison between mine on the right and the ones I picked up.

49860214016_a197bb2e74_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I also started wrapping up getting all the parts I want blasted/coated dissasembled. These subframe mounts, I burned and then peeled the rubber off.

I also finally got this damn rear LCA bolt that was rusted solid to the subframe out of it, so it is ready for blasting as well.

I've been waiting 3 weeks for a package to come in from an East coast guy.

-R/L lower rockers
-Drivers fender (mine has a rust patch in it, so it cannot be rolled)
-Rear LSD axles
-Rear toe arms
-AWD fuel neck (mine has too much rust for me to be comfortable with)

I need the toe arms and fuel neck for blasting/powdercoating. I will next pull the engine/trans and get a couple more things I wanted blasted/coated ready to go.

I will be taking it slow, getting everything powdercoated and refreshed before it all goes on the car.

Peace!

-Brady
 

bettfootball

Proven Member
492
405
Mar 7, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Hey!

Just wanted to do an update. The guy "Jason DSM" on facebook flaked so bad on my parts, I ended up having to file a claim. I finally got refunded. But means I no longer have:

-Mint Rocker Panels for replacements
-Rear LSD Axles
-Rear Toe Arms
-Fuel Filler neck
-Drivers side fender.

I need these parts. I need to get everything together for media blasting/powdercoating so I can do it in one batch.

Pretty bummed! I haven't touched the car, it is covered in dust and in bad shape, pretty shitty looking at it like that.

I won't touch anything until Mid-july as it is right now, have some other stuff going on. But DO plan on having the car fully painted and done by next summer, I'll make that happen.

Peace!

-Brady
 

EVLGSX

Proven Member
657
249
Dec 7, 2017
Wallingford, Connecticut
Hey!

Just wanted to do an update. The guy "Jason DSM" on facebook flaked so bad on my parts, I ended up having to file a claim. I finally got refunded. But means I no longer have:

-Mint Rocker Panels for replacements
-Rear LSD Axles
-Rear Toe Arms
-Fuel Filler neck
-Drivers side fender.

I need these parts. I need to get everything together for media blasting/powdercoating so I can do it in one batch.

Pretty bummed! I haven't touched the car, it is covered in dust and in bad shape, pretty sh**ty looking at it like that.

I won't touch anything until Mid-july as it is right now, have some other stuff going on. But DO plan on having the car fully painted and done by next summer, I'll make that happen.

Peace!

-Brady

I tried doing a deal with him- did not work out.
 
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