The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
All this talk of ac work, please be sure you know what you're doing. This can hurt you. If you're going to use gauges just make sure you keep the high pressure side closed. R134 connections are difficult to screw up because they're typically labeled L and H and the fittings are different sizes. Gauges are frequently color coded also. If your system won't hold a vacuum dont bother trying to charge it. It won't hold it.
 
I was talking to the machine shop today, guy said that the valves are low and leaking. I’ve watched some YouTube videos on reseating the valves, it seems fairly easy in all honesty. Just time consuming. I think they’re gonna want like 4-500 bucks so I might as well just do it myself and save a lot right? It’s already been resurfaced and checked with pressure and everything. This way i can put new stems and stuff in it, i can bleed the lifters to kill ticking, you guys think it might be a good idea? Thanks guys.

All this talk of ac work, please be sure you know what you're doing. This can hurt you. If you're going to use gauges just make sure you keep the high pressure side closed. R134 connections are difficult to screw up because they're typically labeled L and H and the fittings are different sizes. Gauges are frequently color coded also. If your system won't hold a vacuum dont bother trying to charge it. It won't hold it.
I will make sure before i do anything. I need my low cap, when i went to put it back on i dropped it. I won’t try to charge it yet, i just need to find this leak, and replace some o rings. Thank you for the help though, i will be careful.
 
I will make sure before i do anything. I need my low cap, when i went to put it back on i dropped it. I won’t try to charge it yet, i just need to find this leak, and replace some o rings. Thank you for the help though, i will be careful.
You can buy replacement caps at auto parts store
 
Well gentlemen. I think once again, my car is fried. Just got all the alternator parts, all of the belts on, fresh coolant. Let it warm up and idle, then I looked at the coolant and it looked like this 👇 , after I tried driving it thinking that was from it getting up to temp, she was running good, temp looked normal, sped up a little to quick apparently and the car crapped it self. I am very very sad not going to lie. I feel like I’ve had nothing but trouble and every time I fix something, something else breaks my heart and I feel back at square one. :( I am going to do a compression test and make sure, but I think her head gasket is done.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Coolant looks like this at not very hot idle by the way. :(

I don’t even know the next step, I not going to lie, im a little tired of this stuff happening and getting more and more sick of it. Any help or advice would be awesome, thanks guys.
Dude, sorry that happened, but I’m with you about getting sick of the break downs.. took my lady for a drive last and she ran great..!! 20 lbs of boost, smooth spool up, stomped on a mustang and lots of tire spinning.. son came over for Father’s Day and went to let him drive it and it wouldn’t start.. messed with maf, rich lean and in between, nothing.. seems like it’s always something, she’s got a mind of her own for sure.. 😕😕😕😕
 
Dude, sorry that happened, but I’m with you about getting sick of the break downs.. took my lady for a drive last and she ran great..!! 20 lbs of boost, smooth spool up, stomped on a mustang and lots of tire spinning.. son came over for Father’s Day and went to let him drive it and it wouldn’t start.. messed with maf, rich lean and in between, nothing.. seems like it’s always something, she’s got a mind of her own for sure.. 😕😕😕😕
Yeah no kiddin man, I’d be a little happier fixing mine if it could smoke mustangs! 😂 but it’s a fun car, hope your Father’s Day went well still. And everyone else here.
 
Yeah no kiddin man, I’d be a little happier fixing mine if it could smoke mustangs! 😂 but it’s a fun car, hope your Father’s Day went well still. And everyone else here.
Was a great day, but, when I got up this morning and looked at my messages, I got a message from my son in the hospital saying he got stabbed.. 20 in the face and 5 in the throat/chest area.. oh man, daddy’s gonna beat someone to a pulp, he better hope the cops find him first,, wish me luck, I’m going for blood
 
Was a great day, but, when I got up this morning and looked at my messages, I got a message from my son in the hospital saying he got stabbed.. 20 in the face and 5 in the throat/chest area.. oh man, daddy’s gonna beat someone to a pulp, he better hope the cops find him first,, wish me luck, I’m going for blood
Holy man… i am so so sorry. I absolutely will be praying for you, i pray for you, your son, and that other kid. I can’t say too much because I know I would be that exact same way. Good luck to you and your son, i really am so sorry and will be praying for your whole family.
 
Was a great day, but, when I got up this morning and looked at my messages, I got a message from my son in the hospital saying he got stabbed.. 20 in the face and 5 in the throat/chest area.. oh man, daddy’s gonna beat someone to a pulp, he better hope the cops find him first,, wish me luck, I’m going for blood
Man. I am so sorry to hear this. No words...
 
i just got my head back yesterday, am going to replace as many o rings as I can see. Am picking up the pack of them right now, plus some glue because me new soft top window, has already half way fallen off. Head looks great was stupid expensive though, im gonna go back through and watch all of the videos and everything, if you guys think im missing anything or want to do anything else before start up, let me know!! Thank you guys. Also @Bigbeanbird , i pray everything is well. Hope your son is healing and that justice will come, i again am so so sorry for that to happen, I can’t even imagine. Praying for you and your family.

I just got the head and everything back together. Took me about 7 hours but I did it all. It’s still got problems with that stupid belt. I do not understand why, but I am about to take it to a shop because of how mad I’m getting. It’s that dumb alternator belt, and no matter what I do it squeals and gives me trouble, it stopped froze a bit before the head gasket. I took it down the road, it bogs still at 4-5 rpm’s, I think it’s due too that intercooler piping I mentioned earlier. Lastly, it started to over heat just a little tad bit about the median. Then, I pulled over because I got worried, and it spiked like crazy! I saw that and knew I had to get wind blowing through, so I took off towards my house, and it was perfect. I even let it idle for a few minutes before I had to leave and it was great!! The weirdest part, there was coolant all over the housing and all around it, I couldn’t figure out where, I think air was trying too escape but that’s just a guess. Any and all help would be so helpful!! Thanks everyone.
 
i just got my head back yesterday, am going to replace as many o rings as I can see. Am picking up the pack of them right now, plus some glue because me new soft top window, has already half way fallen off. Head looks great was stupid expensive though, im gonna go back through and watch all of the videos and everything, if you guys think im missing anything or want to do anything else before start up, let me know!! Thank you guys. Also @Bigbeanbird , i pray everything is well. Hope your son is healing and that justice will come, i again am so so sorry for that to happen, I can’t even imagine. Praying for you and your family.
Thank you Ruby, things are going very well.. suspect is in jail with an attempted murder charge
 
Brand new belt, already starting to fray. Before the head gasket, it seemed to be running great. But now I just cannot get it to stop squealing. It gets really really hot very quick. Would love any advice on what to check or do next.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Something I did find a little curious was this belt, is almost bowing out? It doesn’t seem flat to me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Yes, this is also a brand new one.
Could be the tension is too low or pulley has oil/grease or something on the surface. Should recheck that, too. Anyways belt slippage builds up the heat.
 
Could be the tension is too low or pulley has oil/grease or something on the surface. Should recheck that, too. Anyways belt slippage builds up the heat.
Ok, got it. Tomorrow I will reclean it, and make sure, what do you mean by the tensioner is too low?
 
Ok, got it. Tomorrow I will reclean it, and make sure, what do you mean by the tensioner is too low?
I meant by the belt tension. The belt could be loose. If it's loose, it would cause squealing sound and heat.
 
Oh got it, sorry thank you.
For your various belts, there's an actual spec for proper tension. It involves measuring the distance between the pulleys, and the belt should deflect so and so milimeters based on distance and force and time and math and nuclear chickens and whatnot. Doing it right involves a deflection gauge and a ruler or measuring tape. See page 40 in the chassis FSM for more info. But few (if any) use a gauge and straight edge and compare their readings to factory specs...

Most mechanics (well, me and the guys I've wrenched with over the years) adjust tension by feel. Real exact, I know... but here's a tip:

Once tightened, a belt should be able to be twisted about 90 degrees using your thumb and one finger. It should be a little tough, but not real hard. Once at 90, the belt should be tight enough that you can't twist it any more without considerable effort. If the belt easily twists more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose. If you can't get the belt to 90 without muscleing it a bit, the belt is too tight.

The twist check should be done on the longest run of the belt - the greatest distance between pulleys. Also, this isn't universal. But for the 2G 4G63, the belts have a long enough run that this test will get you where the belt tension should be - no squawl and not stressing the component's bearings.
 
Once tightened, a belt should be able to be twisted about 90 degrees using your thumb and one finger. It should be a little tough, but not real hard. Once at 90, the belt should be tight enough that you can't twist it any more without considerable effort. If the belt easily twists more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose. If you can't get the belt to 90 without muscleing it a bit, the belt is too tight.

The twist check should be done on the longest run of the belt - the greatest distance between pulleys. Also, this isn't universal. But for the 2G 4G63, the belts have a long enough run that this test will get you where the belt tension should be - no squawl and not stressing the component's bearings.
Someone taught me the same method. Havent had a sqeuealing belt in years
 
Someone taught me the same method. Havent had a sqeuealing belt in years
Ok, I will absolutely try it. Why do I do if it still squeals? I am going to clean the pulleys first, what’s a good cleaning method that won’t make the pulleys impossible to grab? I don’t want to contaminate the belts.

For your various belts, there's an actual spec for proper tension. It involves measuring the distance between the pulleys, and the belt should deflect so and so milimeters based on distance and force and time and math and nuclear chickens and whatnot. Doing it right involves a deflection gauge and a ruler or measuring tape. See page 40 in the chassis FSM for more info. But few (if any) use a gauge and straight edge and compare their readings to factory specs...

Most mechanics (well, me and the guys I've wrenched with over the years) adjust tension by feel. Real exact, I know... but here's a tip:

Once tightened, a belt should be able to be twisted about 90 degrees using your thumb and one finger. It should be a little tough, but not real hard. Once at 90, the belt should be tight enough that you can't twist it any more without considerable effort. If the belt easily twists more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose. If you can't get the belt to 90 without muscleing it a bit, the belt is too tight.

The twist check should be done on the longest run of the belt - the greatest distance between pulleys. Also, this isn't universal. But for the 2G 4G63, the belts have a long enough run that this test will get you where the belt tension should be - no squawl and not stressing the component's bearings.
Awesome!!! Thank you so much. I love the nuclear chick, 😂 never heard that one before. I’m definitely going to be using it though.
 
Ok, I will absolutely try it. Why do I do if it still squeals? I am going to clean the pulleys first, what’s a good cleaning method that won’t make the pulleys impossible to grab? I don’t want to contaminate the belts.
Same for me. Been using this method 25 years or more.
 
Ok, I will absolutely try it. Why do I do if it still squeals? I am going to clean the pulleys first, what’s a good cleaning method that won’t make the pulleys impossible to grab? I don’t want to contaminate the belts.
Belt squeal is caused by the belt slipping on a pulley, grabbing but not quite enough - like tennis shoes on a basketball court. The most common cause is a loose belt. But if the belt is contaminated with something (coolant, oil, etc.), or if the pulley has something on it, that can cause it as well. It's possible that a bent pulley or misalignment can cause it too.

To clean your pulleys, best to remove the belts so you don't get anything on them. As far as what to use, it depends on what is on them. For most things I think a solution of soap and water with a nylon bristle brush should clean up anything that's on the pulleys. Rinse with clean water. And when tou are all done, spray each pulley down with brake cleaner to displace any water and to quick-dry the pulleys. This will, naturally, get the floor wet. If you're in your garage and don't want to have a wet floor, you could use carb cleaner and a rag in place of the soap/water/brush. Still finish it off with brake cleaner.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top