Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[CKOPOCT]

A/C - replace the receiver drier and all of the o-rings on all of the pipe ends. You are already replacing the compressor.

 

[RubyEclipse]

A/C - replace the receiver drier and all of the o-rings on all of the pipe ends. You are already replacing the compressor.

I haven’t decided to replace the compressor yet, I don’t know if that’s the problem. The AC works, I know I have a leak though. I have filled it with refrigerate and it blew cold air, it just slowly let it go after a few days and now it’s empty. But I will replace o rings and stuff. Thank you all for the responses!! : )

 

[Justin DuBois]

I haven’t decided to replace the compressor yet, I don’t know if that’s the problem. The AC works, I know I have a leak though. I have filled it with refrigerate and it blew cold air, it just slowly let it go after a few days and now it’s empty. But I will replace o rings and stuff. Thank you all for the responses!! : )

You have a leak. If it can make cold air - your compressor is working. If it stops after a while, the pressure is not holding due to a leak.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You have a leak. If it can make cold air - your compressor is working. If it stops after a while, the pressure is not holding due to a leak.

Then I won’t replace it. I just need to find that leak, I head UV and blue light work the best. Should I replace the O rings first? And is there a place I can look up to find allll of the o rings I need to get too?

 

[CKOPOCT]

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[RubyEclipse]

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Awesome, that looks fairly simple. Thank you so much for the visual, I really really do appreciate it. I also absolutely love the car, looks so very clean and well maintained. I aspire to make my car close to this. Thank you so much again for all of the tips, pointers, and help!!!!!

 

[CKOPOCT]

To find your leak you would add freon that contains dye. Your local Autobone or whatever will have it. And, yes, that dye will glow under a UV light, so wherever the leak is it'll be obvious. If the compressor is working, it's not a bad idea to add a can with the dye and check to see where your leak is. But, you already have the head off the car, which makes accessing the compressor much easier. It also means you'll have to wait until the car is running before adding the freon.

I would take the cap off of the low side and see if there's a neon green tint to the area around the shrader valve. That will tell you if dye has been used previously. (If you watch the Chris Fix video I linked you can see what I'm talking about.) If it has, you can probably just use a black light to find your leak.

If your system doesn't have dye in it, you might be able to spot a leak anyway. Because A/C systems have oil in them, if a leak has been going on long enough (or you live in a dusty environment like southern Arizona), there will be a collection of crud around the area where the leak is. As the freon leaks out the oil collects around the leak point and dust and crap gets stuck to it over time.

Most of the time A/C leaks occur at the junction points - the o-rings, so in my opinion it's not a bad idea to just replace them all now while the car is down and everything is easily accessible. They are likely original. There is, of course, the chance the o-rings are not the cause.

 

[RubyEclipse]

To find your leak you would add freon that contains dye. Your local Autobone or whatever will have it. And, yes, that dye will glow under a UV light, so wherever the leak is it'll be obvious. If the compressor is working, it's not a bad idea to add a can with the dye and check to see where your leak is. But, you already have the head off the car, which makes accessing the compressor much easier. It also means you'll have to wait until the car is running before adding the freon.

I would take the cap off of the low side and see if there's a neon green tint to the area around the shrader valve. That will tell you if dye has been used previously. (If you watch the Chris Fix video I linked you can see what I'm talking about.) If it has, you can probably just use a black light to find your leak.

If your system doesn't have dye in it, you might be able to spot a leak anyway. Because A/C systems have oil in them, if a leak has been going on long enough (or you live in a dusty environment like southern Arizona), there will be a collection of crud around the area where the leak is. As the freon leaks out the oil collects around the leak point and dust and crap gets stuck to it over time.

Most of the time A/C leaks occur at the junction points - the o-rings, so in my opinion it's not a bad idea to just replace them all now while the car is down and everything is easily accessible. They are likely original. There is, of course, the chance the o-rings are not the cause.

Ok got it. I will replace the orings, there was also something else you pointed out by the headlight, what is that? And why should I replace it? I know the compressor works, maybe not 100% since the cars old, but I put Freon in it and I had AC for a day or 2.

 

[CKOPOCT]

The thing by the headlight is the receiver drier. It's your a/c system's filter and dessicant (moisture trap/extractor). You need to replace it because your a/c system has a pretty substantial leak (since charging the system only lasts for 2 days). That leak means ambient air is getting into the system, and that includes humidity, dust, etc. Moisture causes all sorts of problems in an a/c system, including rust and corrosion, creating an acidic environment, and crystalizing causing blockages and possibly damage.

As to your compressor, the fact the system produces cold air, even if only for 2 days or 2 minutes, means the compressor is pumping the freon through the system - so it's working fine. If you are concerned that the compressor only partially works because you notice it kicking on and off, that is normal in a system that is low on freon.

Now, as I said before, it's possible the compressor is the source of your leak. The compressor's front seal could be bad. But if I were in your shoes I would replace all of the o-rings. Then, when the engine is back together and running, charge the a/c system properly. If it holds a vacuum, you know the system is sealed and will work great when properly charged. If it doesn't hold vacuum, then charge the system with dye and search for the leak.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

The thing by the headlight is the receiver drier. It's your a/c system's filter and dessicant (moisture trap/extractor). You need to replace it because your a/c system has a pretty substantial leak (since charging the system only lasts for 2 days). That leak means ambient air is getting into the system, and that includes humidity, dust, etc. Moisture causes all sorts of problems in an a/c system, including rust and corrosion, creating an acidic environment, and crystalizing causing blockages and possibly damage.

As to your compressor, the fact the system produces cold air, even if only for 2 days or 2 minutes, means the compressor is pumping the freon through the system - so it's working fine. If you are concerned that the compressor only partially works because you notice it kicking on and off, that is normal in a system that is low on freon.

Now, as I said before, it's possible the compressor is the source of your leak. The compressor's front seal could be bad. But if I were in your shoes I would replace all of the o-rings. Then, when the engine is back together and running, charge the a/c system properly. If it holds a vacuum, you know the system is sealed and will work great when properly charged. If it doesn't hold vacuum, then charge the system with dye and search for the leak.

Moisture BAD…BAD BAD BAD.. .. does not compress, dye GOOD

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You need to vacuum your system after replacing the o-rings, drier etc. It's the only way to get the proper amount of Refrigerant into the system.
If you have an air compressor, THIS vacuum pump works fine and is economical. Nice to see you repairing the AC instead of removing it.
I would also recommend this Guage Set for doing AC work. It's what I use. I bought an electric vacuum pump last year and both it and the air operated one do the same job, just as well.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You need to vacuum your system after replacing the o-rings, drier etc. It's the only way to get the proper amount of Refrigerant into the system.
If you have an air compressor, THIS vacuum pump works fine and is economical. Nice to see you repairing the AC instead of removing it.
I would also recommend this Guage Set for doing AC work. It's what I use. I bought an electric vacuum pump last year and both it and the air operated one do the same job, just as well.

Awesome thank you so much, I will definitely go and get this because the AC is my next project.

 

[CKOPOCT]

You need to vacuum your system after replacing the o-rings, drier etc. It's the only way to get the proper amount of Refrigerant into the system.
If you have an air compressor, THIS vacuum pump works fine and is economical. Nice to see you repairing the AC instead of removing it.
I would also recommend this Guage Set for doing AC work. It's what I use. I bought an electric vacuum pump last year and both it and the air operated one do the same job, just as well.

Yes. Sorry - I can see how it might have been misleading when I said "Then, when the engine is back together and running, charge the a/c system properly." In my mind "properly" included drawing the system into a vacuum prior to adding refrigerant. Sorry if I confused anyone.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Yes. Sorry - I can see how it might have been misleading when I said "Then, when the engine is back together and running, charge the a/c system properly." In my mind "properly" included drawing the system into a vacuum prior to adding refrigerant. Sorry if I confused anyone.

Thank you very much both of you guys for the clarification, because I did not know you need to vacuum it. Someone didn’t tell me when I drained coolant and refilled it, that you need to get rid of the bubbles. I hadn’t know there would be bubbles and air pockets so I blew a coolant pipe. This happened on my old car, a mistake I won’t make now.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

When you get to the point of "I'm ready to fill the system guys!", look up the amount of Refrigerant the system needs and use that amount. I can help if you have questions and catch me on here. I look for around 40lbs on the low side and in-between 200-300 or a bit more on some systems on the high side, but I'm at about 900ft above sea level.
Marty

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Thank you very much both of you guys for the clarification, because I did not know you need to vacuum it. Someone didn’t tell me when I drained coolant and refilled it, that you need to get rid of the bubbles. I hadn’t know there would be bubbles and air pockets so I blew a coolant pipe. This happened on my old car, a mistake I won’t make now.

The deal here is when you pull down into a vacuum all non wanted contaminants,(air, moisture, old oil and refrigerant) gets pulled out and creates a void.. then when you are sure it’s holding a vacuum overnight you will introduce refrigerant into the system, replacing the void with refrigerant.. make sense..??? Whatever you do when you open the refrigerant can, don’t let air get in from any other port..(most gauge sets have a high and a low side) anyhow, my two cents

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I agree, but I give it a couple beer sit to see if the vacuum bleeds down at all by taking a picture and going back after said time and making sure it hasn't moved.
One other thing, DON'T OPEN THE HIGH SIDE (RED KNOB) WHEN REFILLING THE SYSTEM.

 

[RubyEclipse]

The deal here is when you pull down into a vacuum all non wanted contaminants,(air, moisture, old oil and refrigerant) gets pulled out and creates a void.. then when you are sure it’s holding a vacuum overnight you will introduce refrigerant into the system, replacing the void with refrigerant.. make sense..??? Whatever you do when you open the refrigerant can, don’t let air get in from any other port..(most gauge sets have a high and a low side) anyhow, my two cents

That makes sense, got it. When you say don’t let air get in the can, how can I? I used the pressure fan with the release valve or pull thingy, to let the Freon into the car, so how can it get air in it when Its connected?

 

[CKOPOCT]

Watch the Chris Fix video I linked in post 635. It will explain the full process.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You crack the line at the manifold and release a bit of freon (shhhh) to purge the line.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

You crack the line at the manifold and release a bit of freon (shhhh) to purge the line.

Yup, that way all the air in the hose will be purged at the gauged manifold.. I’m not in tune with auto AC , just residential and commercial, but the theory of operation is the same.. couple of beers sit sounds good..!!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@Bigbeanbird you would do just fine on the automotive AC side. You obviously are familiar with the system.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Watch the Chris Fix video I linked in post 635. It will explain the full process.

Perfect, I will definitely be watching it. Thank you guys for all of the inputs!!

 

[Bigbeanbird]

That makes sense, got it. When you say don’t let air get in the can, how can I? I used the pressure fan with the release valve or pull thingy, to let the Freon into the car, so how can it get air in it when Its connected?

Your Freon can should be hooked up to the middle port on the gauges via a hose, the other hose will be hooked up to the gauge.. once connections are made you open the Freon can then purge the hose of air by cracking the hose at the manifold.. ssssssppffftt, then close IT tight.. so you’ll have a hose full of Freon next to a system in a vacuum ready to pull it all in..

 

[RubyEclipse]

Your Freon can should be hooked up to the middle port on the gauges via a hose, the other hose will be hooked up to the gauge.. once connections are made you open the Freon can then purge the hose of air by cracking the hose at the manifold.. ssssssppffftt, then close IT tight.. so you’ll have a hose full of Freon next to a system in a vacuum ready to pull it all in..

Hose next too the manifold?