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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
I got it all back together, timing I did right. Car runs great now, no heating. Still I know that belt is rubbing. I think it’s rubbing from the alternator to the harmonic balancer. I see the belt shaking quite a bit, I don’t know why it’s not balanced right nor why it is rubbing. What should I do? Thank you guys.
What did you find on harmonic balancer?.any damage? I'd like to see alternator adjuster also. It has a specific orientation
 
What did you find on harmonic balancer?.any damage? I'd like to see alternator adjuster also. It has a specific orientation
ok I will send a picture of it. My harmonic balancer seemed good honesty, but it had some chip in jt, a decent sized one. So I replaced it anyways. I’ll send the picture too.
 
I did not find it out. I could find anything what looked rubbed or scratched off. Not even the old water pump, I have zero clue.

I did get a new water pump, car runs, starts, everything is great. I still have no idea the order for the tensioner on the alternator so I would love some help with that. I think im actually missing something, like a little block or something the tensioner is supposed to go through I don’t know. She still squeals a lot, and the belt gets decently hot.

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Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
Yeah that tensioner isn't right. Refer to the link. The bolt tensions all on its own and the little house shaped block goes "roof " up.
 
Yeah that tensioner isn't right. Refer to the link. The bolt tensions all on its own and the little house shaped block goes "roof " up.
Ok, you got it. I thought there was more too it. I bought those parts because i was missing them, do i take it too a shop or is this something i can do?
 
Ok, you got it. I thought there was more too it. I bought those parts because i was missing them, do i take it too a shop or is this something i can do?
Dirt simple. Do you have the right parts? Show a still Pic please
 
Dirt simple. Do you have the right parts? Show a still Pic please
Awesome. I bought the parts off of that article, he provided part numbers and pictures.

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Oh ok 😂, I’ll send one soon, the parts should be here next week LOL

I did something wrong when installing the BOV or it itself is broken. Under load, not parked, it will like lag. It soounds like it’s constantly releasing pressure, when the turbo fully spools it will no accelerate it’ll just slow down as more air sounds like it’s being release, I triple checked my pipes and looked around and it’s what i messed with, it was running great about an hour again but now I can barely get it to 40 miles an hour.

From what it seems like, is this a boost leak? I know that’s a dumb question it most likely is but I still wanna ask. What should I look around for and check first too?
 
Did you have all the parts in the pic we showed?
Yes I do, just bought them.

Ok so new thing, car runs and drives decently well. This morning I went to start it, she fired up to 1500, slowly dropped down to about 1-200 and was struggling to stay alive. It’s not shaking and bumping around at 9-700. Is this an air leak maybe still? I unplugged the MAF sensor and she ran a lot better, idled super well. Weird.
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So I had taken the air filter and bottom plastic out to run the BOV because I thought I couldn’t make it fit. Car ran great, BOV sounded absolutely amazing because it was open aired. Unhoooked the battery last night to set up amp, when to start it this morning and it ran like crap due to reset ECU. I am sticking with the filter now because my car runs and runs so much better, but I really do miss that loud sound. Anyway to safely get it back and still have it run right and safely? I know you guys might disagree with me that it’s just a dumb sound, but man you guys should’ve seen the heads turned when they heard how loud it was!! It I can’t I can’t, not a big deal. Car runs and idles better anyways. Thank you guys for alll of your help through all of this!! I owe it too you all.
 
So I had taken the air filter and bottom plastic out to run the BOV because I thought I couldn’t make it fit. Car ran great, BOV sounded absolutely amazing because it was open aired. Unhoooked the battery last night to set up amp, when to start it this morning and it ran like crap due to reset ECU. I am sticking with the filter now because my car runs and runs so much better, but I really do miss that loud sound. Anyway to safely get it back and still have it run right and safely? I know you guys might disagree with me that it’s just a dumb sound, but man you guys should’ve seen the heads turned when they heard how loud it was!! It I can’t I can’t, not a big deal. Car runs and idles better anyways. Thank you guys for alll of your help through all of this!! I owe it too you all.
You should not vent bov to atmosphere on a stock car. If you ever upgrade to speed density then yes you can do this.
 
You should not vent bov to atmosphere on a stock car. If you ever upgrade to speed density then yes you can do this.
Got it. Sounds good, I thought so, otherwise a lot more would’ve done this and made it sound like this is my guess, thank you. LOL
 
Got it. Sounds good, I thought so, otherwise a lot more would’ve done this and made it sound like this is my guess, thank you. LOL
Look at the process. At idle the bov is open. It will draw in air but not through the maf. Ecu doesn't know how much air is entering so it can't provide correct fuel. End result, car idles poorly or dies. Also in between shifts metered air escapes so there will be a very brief hiccup because again, ecu does not know proper values to deliver fuel.
 
Look at the process. At idle the bov is open. It will draw in air but not through the maf. Ecu doesn't know how much air is entering so it can't provide correct fuel. End result, car idles poorly or dies. Also in between shifts metered air escapes so there will be a very brief hiccup because again, ecu does not know proper values to deliver fuel.
Yep, I saw all of that this morning. The only thing I found weird, was yesterday it ran great. I’ve had the piping off for the last day or two and it was running great.
 
Yep, I saw all of that this morning. The only thing I found weird, was yesterday it ran great. I’ve had the piping off for the last day or two and it was running great.
Sometimes you can "get away with it". Some cars longer than others, some cars absolutely not and is apparent right away. I got away with it for like a few months , running fine (or so I thought)... Then one day, it just said "nope"... back to the return hose I went until recently with speed density.
 
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Sometimes you can "get away with it". Some cars longer than others, some cars absolutely not and is apparent right away. I got away with it for like a few months , running fine (or so I thought)... Then one day, it just said "nope"... back to the return hose I went until recently with speed density.
I’ve been reading and a lot, and a lot of people were talking about the SD, is that a tune? I know my car is stock so there’s no point in tuning right?
 
I’ve been reading and a lot, and a lot of people were talking about the SD, is that a tune? I know my car is stock so there’s no point in tuning right?
No. It's not a tune. Speed Density is a way to measure airflow and will eliminate the mass airflow sensor. The sensors for speed density are downstream of the BOV. That's why you would be able to vent.
 
No. It's not a tune. Speed Density is a way to measure airflow and will eliminate the mass airflow sensor. The sensors for speed density are downstream of the BOV. That's why you would be able to vent.
Oh got it, so there would be no real reason for me to do that then? I mean my cars bone stock. If I want to do more power later on is that something I would want to look at?
 
Oh got it, so there would be no real reason for me to do that then? I mean my cars bone stock. If I want to do more power later on is that something I would want to look at?
Correct. It's something for later.
 
Quick question, anyone know a better way to connect the BOV pipe to the intercooler? The rubber hose I am using is NOT working. 😂 I had it come off on the highway 3 times in one drive. I cannot speed up above 3-4 RPMS without it blowing.
 
Quick question, anyone know a better way to connect the BOV pipe to the intercooler? The rubber hose I am using is NOT working. 😂 I had it come off on the highway 3 times in one drive. I cannot speed up above 3-4 RPMS without it blowing.
Show us what you have now.
 
The way its described, it sounds like either:
1. the coupler is too thick
2. the clamp isnt tightening enough
3. Both 1 and 2 combined
4. The coupler isnt long enough for the clamp to seat properly in front of the bead.

The pipe is beaded on both sides so shouldnt slide off if properly tightened.
 
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