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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
It can see different data stats and streams. It’ll show me all kinds of live data but I can’t read or understand any of them. 😂
We can walk you through it. If it has graphing capabilities that can help you look at tps and map.
You're chasing ghosts. .
Let's rewind as this thread has gotten long. How did the car run before? Remind us how did we get to where we are now?
 
We can walk you through it. If it has graphing capabilities that can help you look at tps and map.
You're chasing ghosts. .
Let's rewind as this thread has gotten long. How did the car run before? Remind us how did we get to where we are now?
The car has been running great, it did seem to have this issue before I replaced the head and did timing. She starts nice, she revs amazing in neutral, and “drives” great when I put it onto jack stands and go through all the gears. The issue lies when it’s under load and trying to speed up. As soon as I try to speed up, it gives very loud pops, bangs, and backfires badddd. I put the intercooler pipe on and it seemed to help a lot But didn’t fully fix anything. It still won’t drive quite right.
 
The car has been running great, it did seem to have this issue before I replaced the head and did timing. She starts nice, she revs amazing in neutral, and “drives” great when I put it onto jack stands and go through all the gears. The issue lies when it’s under load and trying to speed up. As soon as I try to speed up, it gives very loud pops, bangs, and backfires badddd. I put the intercooler pipe on and it seemed to help a lot But didn’t fully fix anything. It still won’t drive quite right.
Boost leak test it again. Make sure no pipes are split, intercooler isn't damaged etc. This has all the markings of boost leak....unless I missed you already did it. What does stock boost gauge do under load?
 
Boost leak test it again. Make sure no pipes are split, intercooler isn't damaged etc. This has all the markings of boost leak....unless I missed you already did it. What does stock boost gauge do under load?
I have not done it yet. The stock boost gauge does move, it seems like it’s not moving as quickly or as much as it was before, but still moves some.

So, how do i fix this stupid map sensor issue. I got a new one but the same problem continues, it does nothing. But, it has power and suction but I just won’t freaking work. No matter what I try this thing will not work, I read that there was a map sensor hose but where even is that at? Got new ignition coils on the way, getting them tomorrow morning. Also, my “new” o2 sensor is as black as can be. It is only about 3-4 months old and only has a handful of hours on it. I’m definitely running rich, how do I fix the rich fuel and the silly little map sensor?
 
Did you test any part before deciding to replace it?
Checked voltages, whiggled, plugged, unplugged, was giving me absolutely zero signal it worked. I didn’t know what else it could mean with it doing nothing. Is there anything else I could try or do? I know the runs rich. I’m almost 90% sure it’s something with the map sensor and itt doing nothing.
 
Checked voltages, whiggled, plugged, unplugged, was giving me absolutely zero signal it worked. I didn’t know what else it could mean with it doing nothing. Is there anything else I could try or do? I know the runs rich. I’m almost 90% sure it’s something with the map sensor and itt doing nothing.
You check the wires back to ecu. Make sure there is not a break.
If you aren't sure a part is bad you shouldn't spend money to replace it. Very expensive way to try and make repairs.
 
You check the wires back to ecu. Make sure there is not a break.
If you aren't sure a part is bad you shouldn't spend money to replace it. Very expensive way to try and make repairs.
Ok, understood. The new one seems to be working, idiling at 2, then rising to 4.5 at full throttle. I still don’t know why my fuel is rich, im replacing my o2 sensor because it’s pitch black, I got a warranty on it. New cat gets here next week along with my 1G bov. What else could I check for? I’m cleaning my MAF sensor and everything right now with the MAF cleaner.
 
Ok, understood. The new one seems to be working, idiling at 2, then rising to 4.5 at full throttle. I still don’t know why my fuel is rich, im replacing my o2 sensor because it’s pitch black, I got a warranty on it. New cat gets here next week along with my 1G bov. What else could I check for? I’m cleaning my MAF sensor and everything right now with the MAF cleaner.
No. Karmann vortex mafs do not need cleaning.
 
You need some way to check data. Have you looked into any Bluetooth obd apps? I use torque pro with a Bluetooth obd reader.

Well, dang. I did clean it already so I guess I can rule that out 😂
You should read the can. It likely says NOT for karmann vortex specifically
 
You should read the can. It likely says NOT for karmann vortex specifically
I had no idea that’s what my MAF even was. Sorry.

You need some way to check data. Have you looked into any Bluetooth obd apps? I use torque pro with a Bluetooth obd reader.
I have not, but I will. How much better are they than the scanners that have a screen and cord?
 
I have not, but I will. How much better are they than the scanners that have a screen and cord?
They can read live data and stream it graphically
If yours doesn't do that and simply reads codes it falls short of being a diagnostic tool. Being able to see what a sensor outputs to ecu at least tells you if ecu is getting good data.
Just like any other computer garbage in garbage out. If ecu doesn't get good data it can't provide the right amount of fuel etc.
 
They can read live data and stream it graphically
If yours doesn't do that and simply reads codes it falls short of being a diagnostic tool. Being able to see what a sensor outputs to ecu at least tells you if ecu is getting good data.
Just like any other computer garbage in garbage out. If ecu doesn't get good data it can't provide the right amount of fuel etc.
Got it, makes sense.
 
So, update gentlemen. I put in new coils, runs beautifully, drives the most amazing it’s been in forever. I absolutely am in love with this car. She’s got some tiny kinks im working out, and she’s goldennnnn!!! New o2 sensor coming in Tuesday, new cat tomorrow, is there anything i should check before welding it on? Don’t want to ruin a new one.
 
Alright so, little new update. I got the 1G bov in. Got no idea how to cut or install this in. Also, I still have oil in my intake manifold, BOV, and probably past, this keeps happening, any idea why?

Never mind, I took a closer look, I filled it up too much with oil. That’s my b, but I still don’t know how to get this BOV on, I can buy an adapter but just wanna save some money if possible. If it’s not possible it’s not possible, just lmk! Thank you guys so much!! : )
 
Never mind, I took a closer look, I filled it up too much with oil. That’s my b, but I still don’t know how to get this BOV on, I can buy an adapter but just wanna save some money if possible. If it’s not possible it’s not possible, just lmk! Thank you guys so much!! : )
Pull the piece off where you have the stock bov. You need to make something similar but with the flange
 
Ok, should I cut the pipe down the sides on the left and right to keep the bottom pipe flange?
I don't remember what the 2g part looks like, LOL. Post some pics. I thought it was just a straight piece. Thought it would be self explanatory??
 
It does have a straight piece you’re right, the 1G is the one that does. I don’t know how to cut this pipe to fit in the 2Gs place.
 
I am going to take a grinder wheel and cut it off at an angle, then am going to weld on a vertical pipe. I think this will work best and be the way to do it.

Also, I had yet another alternator belt snap. I have zero clue why this keeps happening, it looks lined up, the lights sometime flashed indicating the alternator not working right before the belt rips. That’s all I can think of, if you guys got any clue as to why would love some help. Thank you all!!!!

Alright, another new thing. Fun fun, there’s always an issue because why not. Today on the high way, alternator lights started to come on, just as I was about to pull over they stopped. My belts started squealing out of no where, lights came on, lost power steering. The belt is now on the freeway somewhere. I cannot figure out for the life of me why this happened. Anyways, car is now over heating because it had no water pump spinning. I bought all new belts, installed them, car is now squealing louder and worse than before, and overheating really badly, my guess is from that water pump. I got prom in 2 days and am going to be so very angry if this car is on jack stands because of something stupid like this. Thank you all again, appreciate everything.
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I think it’s off balanced and rubbing, that’s why it’s smoking and getting super super hot. I think I might take it to a shop tomorrow morning for help because I am just beyond lost and pretty dang frustrated. 😂
 
What are your overall goals for the car? Are you trying to stay close to stock or are you going to build it up with an FMIC?

Reason I ask, is because I have this piece of DSM history here. It is a Joe P upper intercooler pipe, made by one of them members here that i bought back in like 2003 or so.

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It was my very first mod and first purchase from the forum. It is already flanged for a 1g bov and replaces the section from side mount intecooler to the upper intercooler sleeve that goes to the throttle body. I also used it with my Greddy style front mount that took the long route, but isnt needed with an FMIC that takes the short route.

. It is yours, for free if you want it. Just needs a coat of paint and ill clean that leftover RTV off before sending. Just DM me your address. Its been in my garage for years and Id really like to give it to someone who can use it.
 

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