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Spyder engine rebuild

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mattspyder

15+ Year Contributor
1,046
2
Nov 2, 2004
del taco, Wisconsin
I'm looking to rebuild or buy a new engine. i have the stock 7 bolt right now. which would be the best way to rebuild it? im thinking about taking it to RRE. there about an hour away from me. does anyone have any suggestions on which parts i should get.
thanks

im looking at this site, and the full engine rebuild kit. http://www.turbogarage.com/dsm_combodeals.asp
is this a good price??
or does anyone know where i can get it cheaper!
 
You could do that or buy all that stuff that's listed there and save about a grand. I got used eagle rods off a friend along w/ a block, 2.0 crank, and all arp hardware for 400 and bought new wiseco pistons for 450. Got si valves for 160 and crower springs and retainers for 220, A cometic headgasket and arp headstuds run about 200 for both new. The real question you gotta ask youself is if you wanna do the 7 bolt build up or swap to a 6 bolt. The 6 bolt will obviously be more money and more time consuming as you will have to buy a bunch of random things. So far for machining and parts i'm a little over 3k for everything needed to swap to a 6 bolt. If you can do the work youself you will save some money in labor.
 
It is probably time for a 6 bolt 2.0, 2.3 or even 2.4. One way or the other it probably isn’t a bad idea to talk to RRE since they are close to you and certainly know a thing or two about these engines.
Leave the parts buy till after you decided which way you are going and ask the guys doing the engine what parts and if they can supply the parts needed. You will save some money that way and a whole lot of time for sure.
 
Well Im having a really hard time finding a shop around here to do my engine rebuild. I contacted AMS by chicago and they said for what I want I should just get a stock shortblock from the dealer and they would put it all in for 5grand. I thought that was alittle high. Then I contacted Speedquest and they quoted me around 3500 for a performance rebuild. But Ive heard that they dont know much about dsms more of hondas.

So I'm stuck wondering what the hell do I do. Ive thought of doing it myself but I really dont have the experiance, If i did it myself I would probably just buy a new shortblock from somewhere. I'm sticking with me 7bolt.


Can anyone help me out?
 
I have Kilpatrick Engine in Waukesha rebuilding a 4G63 for me. They know their stuff.

http://www.kilpatrickengine.com/

There is another engine rebuilder in Waukesha who I contacted that really knows 4G63's as well, but I don't remember their name offhand.

You could have them shortblock the engine for you, and you can do the rest of the assembly to save some money.
 
I am having them shortblock the engine for me. They are going to bore it 0.020 over, machine all the surfaces, install Mahle pistons and rings, and new bearings all around. I supplied the pistons. I don't know yet how much the final bill will be, but I am going to call them today and see when it will be ready.
 
What exactly are you looking for in a rebuild? Anys specific parts or do you just want a "back to stock" rebuild?

If you just want it "like new" but stock, find a decent machine shop in your area and have them bore/hone get some new OEM pistons, use your stock rods if they check out okay, and get your head rebuilt by a known DSM vendor.

YOu could bolt it all together do the install yourself. Maybe have someone help you with the timing belt stuff, but other than that it's really not that hard.
 
well I was thinking about getting a topline kit but then I dont know. I think i might want to put eagle rods with ross pistons and then a all new bearings, b/s removed. I dont want to spend more than 4g on this project. i want to be around 300 hp with 18psi.

My head is almost brand new i just replaced the head with a performance head so.
 
Go all oem parts.

If you think you're going to be driving this car for a long time heres a short (read I just typed it off the top of my head) parts list for you to look at:

Water pump
idler pulley
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
timing belt tensioner pulley
crank pulley
front case
B/S removal
headgasket
OEM pistons
Gasket set
main bearings
rod bearings
Get rods checked, if not, buy my perfect shape stock 7 bolt rods
machine work for boring, honing, decking, and assembly of the shortblock.


Should end up being a little over $2k. It'll support your 300hp easily, and will last a long time.
 
Well Now I came across the stroker kit from sbr, I can get a stage 1 stroker kit with a NEW oem crank for about 1600 bucks. http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=2009&cat=2554&page=1

I dont really know much about stroker kits, (pros and cons) but that might be something Im interested in.

I was looking on mitsubishioemparts.com and they have all the oem parts I would need for a bottom engine rebuild and the prices arent bad at all?
anyone have expirence with them?? I might go that way and take it all to a shop and have them build it and machine the block...
 
Well Now I came across the stroker kit from sbr, I can get a stage 1 stroker kit with a NEW oem crank for about 1600 bucks. http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=2009&cat=2554&page=1

I dont really know much about stroker kits, (pros and cons) but that might be something Im interested in.

I was looking on mitsubishioemparts.com and they have all the oem parts I would need for a bottom engine rebuild and the prices arent bad at all?
anyone have expirence with them?? I might go that way and take it all to a shop and have them build it and machine the block...

The stroker motors are pretty cool. The only "downfall" with them is they cant rev as high as a 2.0. 8k is about the safe limit...which for most ppl is plenty high. It will make WAYYYY more torque and will make a 50 trim spool liek a T25..LOL. IF you have any q's about it feel free to shoot me a pm and ill take care of ya!! :thumb:


Joe
SBR
 
i dont need 800 hp
LOL
hmmm what to do. so pretty much stroker will let me pick up speed faster and make my vtrim turbo spool faster,
hmm im gunna have to think about this one

you can do an hbeam one...good for 600 whp...LOL. A lot cheaper than i beams, and it will make your low end power much greater and spool up will be hella fast!!



Joe
 
I was just told by the guy who runs HID tuning that its a bad Idea to rebuild my 7bolt with a stroker kit.

Why did he say that?

If your running a split-thrust 7 bolt, whats it matter? I wouldn't worry about it at all!

Chris Boone
 
Why did he say that?

If your running a split-thrust 7 bolt, whats it matter? I wouldn't worry about it at all!

Chris Boone


Word...Split thrust is what EVO's have...you never hear of an EVO crankwalking do you?:;) I would feel 100% comfortable making real power on a split thrust 7 bolt. :thumb:


Joe
Slowboy Racing
 
Not to sure what a split thrust is as every thrust bearing I've seen is "split". But as far as being worried about a 7 bolt walking. My opinion is if it hasn't done it by 100K it probably won't. Save money and install hassle and run the 7 bolt. Don't worry about it until it actually happens. And if it does ever "crankwalk" it's not hard to replace the thrust bearing in the car.
 
Jeremiah,

In 99, they switched the design of the Thrust Bearing, to the same design they had been using since evo4's came out. Instead of the Thrust washers (sides of the bearing) built into the main bearing, they use 3 peices the block half of the bearing. So, a standard Thrust Main is 2 peices, where the Split Thrust Main Bearing is 4.

Does that make sense?

Chris Boone
 
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