Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[RubyEclipse]

I ended up doing what you said, I bought new ones online and told the guy who’s cleaning them to just stop. I think new ones not from the 90s will be a better idea.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok sounds good. I still feel like the issue of it bogging is not the injectors, I could be wrong because I don’t know anything, but it was doing this before I even pulled the head, or got the timing messed up. I think maybe airflow or turbo. Oil was back in my intake, I cleaned it out and there doesn’t seem to be anymore in there, but I don’t know. What do you guys all think? Maybe it’s my TPS or something alike? Thank you all for the help once again. : )

Since you made these statements maybe we should address.
Oil in the intake? Like the rubber pipe before the turbo? Normal. That pipe received crankcase vapors from the valve cover during normal operations. It's gets greasy over time.
Bogging.....could be anything but you know for sure there is an injector problem. Doesn't matter if it was there before, we're fixing a problem and we can move forward from that point.
TPS? Unlikely. Why would you suspect it? Did you check it? Is there something wrong? If the answer is no I would refrain from wild guesses. Proper diagnosis should include accurate, measureable (usually repeatable) results. Be objective and follow the information.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Since you made these statements maybe we should address.
Oil in the intake? Like the rubber pipe before the turbo? Normal. That pipe received crankcase vapors from the valve cover during normal operations. It's gets greasy over time.
Bogging.....could be anything but you know for sure there is an injector problem. Doesn't matter if it was there before, we're fixing a problem and we can move forward from that point.
TPS? Unlikely. Why would you suspect it? Did you check it? Is there something wrong? If the answer is no I would refrain from wild guesses. Proper diagnosis should include accurate, measureable (usually repeatable) results. Be objective and follow the information.

Ok got it. I just read somewhere it could be that, I don’t know if it is, I have not checked it. I don’t know how to. I won’t suggest anything anymore, was just trying to brainstorm, forgive me. Once I put in the new injectors next week we’ll see what it does and if that fixes some stuff.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Truthfully when you're talking about running problems like bogging, you're delving into advanced diagnostics. I say "advanced" because more and more mechanics are just swapping parts, reading codes and replacing whatever the computer says. That's easy to do - and expensive. The difference between a swapper and a diagnostician is understanding how and why things work.

What causes an engine to bog? Why would it suddenly act like it's being choked out? When does that happen? Under load? At a particular point when you're depressing the gas pedal (TPS)? Just off idle? Understanding when it happens leads to what's involved at that point. The more specific you can be about exactly what's going on when it bogs will help point you to what components are involved, to what extent, and where to begin looking. That's more advanced than a lot of mechanics can or are willing to go.

I know this doesn't really help you fix the issue, but hopefully it arrests the component shell game that often happens and opens you up to pausing and noodling it out with us. It can suck a lot, but you'll learn a ton and get it fixed.

As to the TPS, that sends a voltage signal to the computer that tells the ECU how open the throttle plate is and thereby helps meter fuel delivery. If you have a faulty TPS, it'll send the wrong voltage, so the computer will think the throttle is in a different position than it is. That will cause incorrect fuel calculations and flow, hence the bog. So, yes, it can be due to a bad TPS... but there are plenty of other components that can cause it.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok got it. I just read somewhere it could be that, I don’t know if it is, I have not checked it. I don’t know how to. I won’t suggest anything anymore, was just trying to brainstorm, forgive me. Once I put in the new injectors next week we’ll see what it does and if that fixes some stuff.

No issue asking question. Just wanted some data how you got there.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Truthfully when you're talking about running problems like bogging, you're delving into advanced diagnostics. I say "advanced" because more and more mechanics are just swapping parts, reading codes and replacing whatever the computer says. That's easy to do - and expensive. The difference between a swapper and a diagnostician is understanding how and why things work.

What causes an engine to bog? Why would it suddenly act like it's being choked out? When does that happen? Under load? At a particular point when you're depressing the gas pedal (TPS)? Just off idle? Understanding when it happens leads to what's involved at that point. The more specific you can be about exactly what's going on when it bogs will help point you to what components are involved, to what extent, and where to begin looking. That's more advanced than a lot of mechanics can or are willing to go.

I know this doesn't really help you fix the issue, but hopefully it arrests the component shell game that often happens and opens you up to pausing and noodling it out with us. It can suck a lot, but you'll learn a ton and get it fixed.

As to the TPS, that sends a voltage signal to the computer that tells the ECU how open the throttle plate is and thereby helps meter fuel delivery. If you have a faulty TPS, it'll send the wrong voltage, so the computer will think the throttle is in a different position than it is. That will cause incorrect fuel calculations and flow, hence the bog. So, yes, it can be due to a bad TPS... but there are plenty of other components that can cause it.

Ok, yeah that makes sense, I know it’s easy to just swap parts but that not what I want to do, what I want to do is learn how each component works and how to fix and understand why things are happening. I will try and give the best explanation as to why things are doing what they are and how. Thank you very much for this it points me in a good direction.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Alrighty boys. I think I may have done it, I won’t say 100% but maybe. I found out, I didn’t put my intercooler hose on, such a dummy mistake. I put the hose piece back on because it was getting like 40% of the air it would be normally, and, I need to put that nipple piece back onto the plastic cylinder that has a hose coming from the top of the intake manifold. I don’t remember the name Mr Paul had said. She was running absolutely beautiful, full power, full rpm’s, fresh oil, everything. Next I’m going to wait for my new fuel injectors because I had used the old ones. I’m taking them off and putting in the new ones, anything else you guys can think of that I should do or anything I should replace/look at? The whistle is still happening from my injectors, I think it could be from the little plastic o rings separating the fuel injector and the head. One is broken, I replaced another, going to replace the second one tomorrow. If you guys have anything to add or say please do! Thank you all so so so very much, I’ve not been this excited in a little while.

Also going to need help replacing my door handle, I am trying to put on the new one and the little plastic connector piece I had to put on the metal rod snapped. I don’t know how to put it back on correctly it just seems like it doesn’t fit and I can’t find that stupid little piece anywhere!!!!

Just remembered the name, it’s the BOV, the top fitting is broken. Should I get another 2G bov, I heard some people saying get the 1G cause it’s better, but I think I remember someone saying I’d have to tune it or something along those lines. Let me know : ) thank you guys again.

 

[pauleyman]

Just remembered the name, it’s the BOV, the top fitting is broken. Should I get another 2G bov, I heard some people saying get the 1G cause it’s better, but I think I remember someone saying I’d have to tune it or something along those lines. Let me know : ) thank you guys again.

Your choice. Yes 1g bov or evo9 is better. You do not have to tune it.
Soooo...the car is running again?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Your choice. Yes 1g bov or evo9 is better. You do not have to tune it.
Soooo...the car is running again?

Yes, yes she is!! And i am just absolutely ecstatic. I won’t jinx it, something else might happen but i will fix it when it does. I know I did the intercooler pipe fitting before, I just think I didn’t tighten it down so after a bumpy ride in the country it came off. I’ll buy a 1G online, does it hook up the same as my current one?

 

[pauleyman]

Yes, yes she is!! And i am just absolutely ecstatic. I won’t jinx it, something else might happen but i will fix it when it does. I know I did the intercooler pipe fitting before, I just think I didn’t tighten it down so after a bumpy ride in the country it came off. I’ll buy a 1G online, does it hook up the same as my current one?

It does not. It's a flange. Requires an adapter. Evo9 will install like stock if you still have oem piping. If you just need to get by you can probably get a 2g bov for free. I probably have one laying about if I go dig.

 

[RubyEclipse]

No it’s ok don’t worry about it, thank you very much. I just purchased a 1G BOV, what adapter do I need? It was 40 bucks it comes with the piping, i don’t know if I need it but I got it.

 

[pauleyman]

No it’s ok don’t worry about it, thank you very much. I just purchased a 1G BOV, what adapter do I need? It was 40 bucks it comes with the piping, i don’t know if I

You will need This

 

[Justin DuBois]

You will need This

If it comes with the Upper IC pipe, you won' need an adaptor - the pipe should have it already.

 

[RubyEclipse]

If it comes with the Upper IC pipe, you won' need an adaptor - the pipe should have it already.

It’s this one right here, I don’t wanna drop 50 bucks on a new one if I don’t have too. Will I still need too with this pipe though?

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[pauleyman]

If it comes with the Upper IC pipe, you won' need an adaptor - the pipe should have it already.

That's true. Op may have to cut the pipe some but it's doable. Can't remember how the bends go on 1g vs 2g.

 

[RubyEclipse]

That's true. Op may have to cut the pipe some but it's doable. Can't remember how the bends go on 1g vs 2g.

Oh that would be a really good money saver! I can look up some more in other pages and videos.

 

[pauleyman]

It’s this one right here, I don’t wanna drop 50 bucks on a new one if I don’t have too. Will I still need too with this pipe though?

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Take out the section you have with the stock bov and look at it. Should be intuitive what you need to do. If I recall the 2g bov pipe is essentially a straight coupler. You can cut the 1g pipe and make it the same except there will be a flange now. You will lose the beads on the end. You can bend the edges to help.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Take out the section you have with the stock bov and look at it. Should be intuitive what you need to do. If I recall the 2g bov pipe is essentially a straight coupler. You can cut the 1g pipe and make it the same except there will be a flange now. You will lose the beads on the end. You can bend the edges to help.

Awesome, ok I’ll ask for more help on how too when I get the part it. It’ll be here hopefully next week. I won’t run the car anymore because I don’t want to do another oil change and spend more unnecessary money. I’m trying to reset my ECU right now, I haven’t done anything more than unplugging the battery. I think it might be trying to compensate for from before, the car is stalling out and dying on start up, could be from the injectors still or because of that, I don’t know quite yet.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Ok so, update. My car revs perfect, in neutral. It starts up great, it runs amazing off the ground, I actually even went through all five gears while it was floating, they not only sounded good but they also for revving perfect. Now, as soon as I dropped the car and tried to go down the road, it would go through first pretty rough, then second and third etc. it wouldn’t go past 2000 RPMS again. It was popping and making the loudest bang ever, sounded like a 12 gauge going off. Just the loudest thing ever. After that, it wouldn’t really go up. It just rode rough all the way home. It’s so weird too me.

One more thing, was doing some more research checking more things, again came up that the problem could be the TPS, I tested it how google said to do it, so correct me if I did it in correctly. I put the multi-meter to the plug and it was at 4.95. I had the key in the on position but not started, now, then I put the pedal all the way down, then put my multi-meter on and it still was at 4.95 V. There was no change, could this be an issue? Car ran the tiniest bit better with it unplugged. The pops and sounds are too loud so I can’t work on it tonight, it’s so funny but insanely loud. Let me know what you guys think, thank you all.

Keep in mind this is me flooring It while in gear. It revs and sounds just beautiful in neutral and has zero pops or whatever it may be. Also my cat is off so it is that much louder, I’m purchasing a magna flow one, they’re like 375 : ( , there goes my savings for this car I swear.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

TPS should read around .63-.65 volts at closed position and 4.90+ volts at WOT.

 

[RubyEclipse]

TPS should read around .63-.65 volts at closed position and 4.90+ volts at WOT.

Yep exactly. That’s why I think something’s off with it, I guessed at it earlier but now I feel like this so proof. But I want to make sure in testing it right and not just saying it’s bad when it’s not. Anyways though, what should I do from here to fix it? Or do more tests?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Test by varying the throttle positions and watching the meter you are using to test with. You want to see no spikes or drops, just smooth up and down of the voltage then set it at .63v dead, as it will come up slightly when the motor is running. Your Idle Stop Switch is incorporated into your TPS so that should work also. I am a 1g guy but you can test that it is sending a correct signal to your ECU.
Following along to just try and help out

 

[RubyEclipse]

Test by varying the throttle positions and watching the meter you are using to test with. You want to see no spikes or drops, just smooth up and down of the voltage then set it at .63v dead, as it will come up slightly when the motor is running. Your Idle Stop Switch is incorporated into your TPS so that should work also. I am a 1g guy but you can test that it is sending a correct signal to your ECU.
Following along to just try and help out

Thank you : ), I always appreciate the help. What I really am a bit more worried about is my map sensor. It does absolutely nothing plugging and unplugging it. Driving with it unplugged or just idling. Nothing happens.

 

[pauleyman]

Do you have access to a datalogger?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Data logger? I have an OBD2 that tracks, but that’s about it.