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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Belt squeal is caused by the belt slipping on a pulley, grabbing but not quite enough - like tennis shoes on a basketball court. The most common cause is a loose belt. But if the belt is contaminated with something (coolant, oil, etc.), or if the pulley has something on it, that can cause it as well. It's possible that a bent pulley or misalignment can cause it too.

To clean your pulleys, best to remove the belts so you don't get anything on them. As far as what to use, it depends on what is on them. For most things I think a solution of soap and water with a nylon bristle brush should clean up anything that's on the pulleys. Rinse with clean water. And when tou are all done, spray each pulley down with brake cleaner to displace any water and to quick-dry the pulleys. This will, naturally, get the floor wet. If you're in your garage and don't want to have a wet floor, you could use carb cleaner and a rag in place of the soap/water/brush. Still finish it off with brake cleaner.
Got it. I’m going to do that right now, I will let you know how it goes. : )

For your various belts, there's an actual spec for proper tension. It involves measuring the distance between the pulleys, and the belt should deflect so and so milimeters based on distance and force and time and math and nuclear chickens and whatnot. Doing it right involves a deflection gauge and a ruler or measuring tape. See page 40 in the chassis FSM for more info. But few (if any) use a gauge and straight edge and compare their readings to factory specs...

Most mechanics (well, me and the guys I've wrenched with over the years) adjust tension by feel. Real exact, I know... but here's a tip:

Once tightened, a belt should be able to be twisted about 90 degrees using your thumb and one finger. It should be a little tough, but not real hard. Once at 90, the belt should be tight enough that you can't twist it any more without considerable effort. If the belt easily twists more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose. If you can't get the belt to 90 without muscleing it a bit, the belt is too tight.

The twist check should be done on the longest run of the belt - the greatest distance between pulleys. Also, this isn't universal. But for the 2G 4G63, the belts have a long enough run that this test will get you where the belt tension should be - no squawl and not stressing the component's bearings.
When you say twisted, which way? Like up and down or how?
 
When you say twisted, which way? Like up and down or how?
Either way. Just grab the belt and try and twist it. Wil be obvious when you try. If it twists more than 90 degrees its too loose

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Ok so, new day new problems. My alternator fuse, absolutely melted my fuse box. : ) no idea how, or why. I was running the car, checking the current cause my batteries about done. Looked down at my voltages and it’s running low, about 11.8, all the sudden jumps up to a whopping 19!! It stayed there for a while, then went down to 13.8-14 volts. Thought it was good, and should probably check my fuses. Yeah, whole things melted. : ) is this fuse box even safe to use anymore? I still have no idea why or how we got here.

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I put a new alternator on because the regulator was blown, she runs good and has good voltage, new fuse is in. But now I have an oil leak, what appears to be a semi big one. There’s way too much, I don’t want to drive it with the leak. The whole underside is just covered it seems. Would love any help to find this leak or to fix it. Thank you guys so much!
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I put a new alternator on because the regulator was blown, she runs good and has good voltage, new fuse is in. But now I have an oil leak, what appears to be a semi big one. There’s way too much, I don’t want to drive it with the leak. The whole underside is just covered it seems. Would love any help to find this leak or to fix it. Thank you guys so much!
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Ok, so I just looked at my cam seals, they’re definitely leaking.

This is the exhaust and intake, I just took it off, I know I gotta redo timing and reals again. What did I do wrong that I can fix or do better next time?

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This is the exhaust and intake, I just took it off, I know I gotta redo timing and reals again. What did I do wrong that I can fix or do better next time?

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Replace them. Easy peasy.
 
Replace them. Easy peasy.
You got it. I have re doing my timing and everything since I took the cams off, it seems there is a new liquid… one I’ve not seen before. It actually looks exactly like mixed oil and coolant, but doesn’t smell like it.

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so… I am now worried that there again, is a head gasket leak. I swear by all, I will be breaking something if this is a head gasket leak. Yet again.
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I don’t even know what to do anymore, or what I did, but I am so so so done with this head gasket and these issues.
 

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You got it. I have re doing my timing and everything since I took the cams off, it seems there is a new liquid… one I’ve not seen before. It actually looks exactly like mixed oil and coolant, but doesn’t smell like it.

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Looks like splatter flying off something that was spinning - thick? Timing Belt Idler Pulley bearing grease? Was it a gates pulley?
 
so… I am now worried that there again, is a head gasket leak. I swear by all, I will be breaking something if this is a head gasket leak. Yet again.
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I don’t even know what to do anymore, or what I did, but I am so so so done with this head gasket and these issues.
I pulled a motor due to loosing coolant and - having a spare motor ready - swapped the whole assembly to address it - and then the new motor started loosing coolant - and it turned out to be the head(s), not the head gaskets. Now I always have them pressure tested at the machine shop before building them.
 
I pulled a motor due to loosing coolant and - having a spare motor ready - swapped the whole assembly to address it - and then the new motor started loosing coolant - and it turned out to be the head(s), not the head gaskets. Now I always have them pressure tested at the machine shop before building them.
I had this one completely done at a machine shop, that is the bad thing…
 
I think so, but I’m not sure. The grease doesn’t worry as much as what seems too be a head leak.
SUre head leak - but also - that pulley is dead. When you take the timing belt off, grab the pulley with your hand - and instead of spinning it - try and rock it side to side, up and down. It should not twist. The tolerance on the bearings is pretty tight. If it was a gates - I guarantee its bad. This is one item you want "Made in Japan"
 
SUre head leak - but also - that pulley is dead. When you take the timing belt off, grab the pulley with your hand - and instead of spinning it - try and rock it side to side, up and down. It should not twist. The tolerance on the bearings is pretty tight. If it was a gates - I guarantee its bad. This is one item you want "Made in Japan"
Which pulley do you mean?
 
Which pulley do you mean?
The one the grease puked out of - there is a tensioner pulley, and an Idler pulley between the timing belt cam gears and the crank/pump gears.

I had this one completely done at a machine shop, that is the bad thing…
Did they pressure test it? You might have to ask for it.
 
The one the grease puked out of - there is a tensioner pulley, and an Idler pulley between the timing belt cam gears and the crank/pump gears.
So it’s the idler pulley I grab? And how can you tell it’s “dead”? What does that even mean?

Did they pressure test it? You might have to ask for it.
Yes they did, I did ask for it.
 
“You will know… Clear your mind of questions, nothing more will I teach you today” - some green goblin
That random green goblin are sounds wise.. 😂😂

So this is combustion gas right? And is the car worth it is the block is what isn’t straight? I’m 17, I don’t make that much money. Yes I could pull out the engine and have it machined, but then might as well do rings, gaskets, and whatever else right? And at point I feel like I’ve dropped so much more than it’s worth. What do you guys think I should do from here? That head I am like 96% sure is blown. It is bubbling, a lot. And what would seem more and more, if I drive it and let it sit, it gets air pockets and heats up bad. Please let me know what you think I should do, sell and get a new project, or stick through and fix it once again. Thank you guys for everything. I love all the info and talking with you guys, I love learning and getting to talk to people who know so much more. 😁
 
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